Restricted Access
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Plenty of interesting climbing though the line is a little meandering and grassy in places. Start at left end of the second ledge of the approach scramble – a bolt high on the wall above is easily seen but not on the line of this route.
1) 4c, 24m. Move up to below an overlap and then gain a slim corner on the left with difficulty (peg). Climb the corner and, when level with a tree on the left, traverse a break to gain the tree. A wide rib above is followed to a good ledge and tree belay.
2) 4c, 14m. Above is a thin thread in a pocketed crack (also on Bottle Buttress). Climb the crack to a ledge and then up the easier wall just right of a tree to a ledge, tree and block belays.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb a ragged crack up on the left and then continue up a slab to grassy ground. Head left to a crack on the left-hand side of the steep wall above. Move up the crack and use holds on the right to reach easier but broken ground and follow this to a tree belay. The Easy Way Down is off to the left. © Rockfax
Ticklists
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sid Sherborne | 21 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very wobbly hold in the groove on pitch 1 after the peg. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very wobbly hold in the groove on pitch 1 after the peg. |
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| Jonno30 | 18 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some loose holds as you work up the route. Nothing too serious just take care. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Some loose holds as you work up the route. Nothing too serious just take care. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Freedom
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)