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These details were last updated on 28/May/2012

Wintour's Leap

Gloucestershire, ENGLAND

Climbs 374 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

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Guidebooks
Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH WALL  
2Avant GardeE2 5b  
3AndromedaE1 5b *55
4The Secret GardenE2 5b 1
5Script for a Jester's Tear6c+ 7
6Turmoil of a White Ocean6b+ *34
7Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo6b+ *4
8Sweeter Than SugarE4 6a *13
9Agamemnon6c *25
10Electra6c+ 6
11AlluviumE1 5c 1
12AntediluvianE3 5c  
13White FeatherE3 5c **36
14One Time One NightE3 5c  
15Yesterday's DreamsE2 5c **134
16AchillesE3 5c 2
17The RingE1 5b *3
18The Angel's GirdleVS 5a ***93
19A Calm Sea and a Prosperous VoyageE3 6a *1
20Cross-ExaminationE3 6a ** 
21Event HorizonE2 5c 1
22VerdictE2 5c  
23CantassiumE2 5c 1
24GrykeHVS 5a 29
25Punch and JudyE2 5b *15
26Suspect DeviceHVS 4c 6
27Left Hand RouteHS 4b **396
28ExodusE2 5c **22
29Powers of PersuasionE2 5b 8
30TarnhelmHVS 5a 12
31Great North Wall RouteHVS 4c *17
32SimplexVS 4c *130
33First DegreeE4 6c  
34Entrance ExamE4 5c *18
35Priory Road7b+ 14
36Highway to the DangerzoneE4 6b 8
37We've got the Honeymoon BluesE4 6a 3
38ApologyE4 6a  
39Swansong PreludeE2 5b *64
40The Valley RoadHVS 5a 1
41RheingoldE1 5b 2
42Central RouteVS 4b 39
43RheinfahrtHVS 4c 13
44The TapHVS 4c *98
45Under a Blood Red SkyE1 5b 2
46ErdaE1 5a *26
47LifebloodE2 5c 1
48NotungE1 5a/5b ***187
49AqualungE3 5c 4
50SwansongE4 5c **32
51The Song Remains the SameE2 5b 14
52The Wrong TapHVS 5a *50
53BacchanalianHS 4b *83
54Finishing Under a Blood Red SkyHVS 4c 8
55Notung ForgedE1 5b 15
56Swansong PostludeHVS 5a 6
57NibelheimVS 4c **385
58Right Hand RouteHS 4b 228
59Strawberry DustE2 5b  
60ClaireE2 5c 1
61XenophobiaE2 5c  
62Tower RouteE3 5c 12
63Big BrotherE2 5c **51
64Big Brother DirectE3 5c *10
65Sweetheart ContractE5 6a 1
66Strange Little GirlE4 6a ***32
67The Angel's ArêteE4 6a *1
68The Angel's Arête (original)E4 6a  
69Towering AngelsE2 5b 2
70Angelic InfernoE4 6c  
71The Angel's EyeHVS 5b *242
72Blood TestE2 5b  
73Banana CrunchE2 5b 4
74Acid TestE3 5c **9
75Sold OutE4 6a * 
76Special OfferHVS 5a 3
77Final ReductionE3 5c  
78Joe's RouteVS 4c *265
79Joe DirectHVS 5a 3
80AdriftHVS 5a 1
81FranticHVS 5a  
82MysticHVS 5a  
83AnalyticVS  
84ScaroticHVS  
85PsychoticVS 4c *65
86CrypticHVS 5a 23
87NarcoticVS 2
88QuixoticE4 5c  
89Men of GwentE1 5b *20
90Suicide is DangerousE3 5c *7
91Digitus ExtractusHVS 5a  
 GREAT WALL  
93Under a Raging MoonE2 5c 1
94Northerners Can't ClimbE1 5b 1
95Compost WallS 2
96Gemmell's GrooveS  
97Loads' LidsVD 1
98Original RouteVD *165
99The Rising SunHVS 5a 4
100John's RouteHS 89
 THE CENTRAL BAY  
102Crystal TipsHVS 5b 14
103Paul's WallHVS 5a 33
104Spinal TapE3 5c/6a 4
105Grey WallVS 4c 86
106Espresso BongoE1 5b 5
107Corner Buttress Route 1VD 320
108Corner Buttress Route 2VD 226
109Corner Buttress Route 3M 51
110The Problemsnone 5b 8
111Cement GrooveD 97
112Direct RouteVD 61
113Direct Route (Severe Finish)S 4a 12
114Pig IronE1 5b 51
115Black Wall LeftHVS 5a 34
116Black WallHVS 4c 83
117Andy's routeHS 4b 1
118Wye KnotD *25
119Save me from TomorrowE2 5b 21
120Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)HVS 5a 3
121Rudely InterruptedE2 6a 1
122Centre of the Bay RouteS 16
123Terry's Left Hand FinishS 4a 16
124AnotherVS 4c 3
125Terry's Right-hand FinishHS 36
126Terry's TwinVS 4c 21
127Terry's Gone CrackersVS 4c 19
128Ridge BypassM 9
129Ridge RouteM 19
 SOUTH BAY  
131Wildlife6c 4
132Microserf6c+ **18
133Valley ForgeE2 5c *33
134Yr HerwehlaE1 5b 31
135Fear Is the KeyHVS 5a 1
136TherapyE2 5c *26
137PsychoE3 5c 1
138Pulp FrictionE4 6a *1
139VapourWareE2 5c *4
140Feline FrolicsE3 5c 5
141When the Wind BlowsE3 5c 1
142Morning Glory6a+ 5
143Loan SharkE3 6a 7
144MeningectomyE6 6a/b **2
145Debt RecoveryE2 5c 4
146Bottle ButtressVD 3c *210
147Bottle OutE1 5b *15
148Bottle Buttress DirectVS 4c 60
149CodaE3 5c 1
150PrangE1 5a 2
151Gotta lotta bottleVS 4c 7
152Last Of The WineE3 6a 2
153MeningitisE4 5c 3
154Broken BottleE1 5b 18
155Childhood's EndE2 5c **32
156Clutching at StrawsE2 5c *7
157Age of EnlightenmentE1 5b *37
158Camp Freddies BoilVS 4c 1
159Central Rib Route IS 4a **650
160Central Rib Route IIIVD ***223
161Central Rib Route IIVS 5a *149
 DECEIVER BUTTRESS  
163John BennettE1 5b 1
164Do What You WantE5 6b **1
165Agent OrangeE2 5c 5
166Sleight of HandE1 5b *38
167Scaremonger6c+ **18
168Easier Said than Done7b **8
169The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver7a ***11
170Better Late than Never7a *7
171Stay Mellow6c+ *8
172Out-a-Sight7a+ **4
173'Yeeaaghhh!'7a 5
 FAR SOUTH BAY  
175The Early Morning TraverseVS 2
176AnticipationE2 5c 3
177ArabesqueHVS 5b 5
178Themeninblack; the SoundtrackE3 5c *1
179GretaHS 4b **199
180SentaHVS 5a 14
181ThemeninblackE3 5b **11
182ZeldaHS 4b ***709
183Sweetest VictoryE2 5c 6
184Hunky DoreE1 5a 10
185Waiting for ThemeninblackE4 6a 1
186GuythaHVS 5a, 5a *141
187Gospel: According to ThemeninblackE4 6a 2
188LlamaE1 5b *9
189PumaHVS 5a **64
190CobraHVS 5
191CheetahHVS 5a **184
192Let Us PreyE1 5a **18
 Climb nameGradex
193The Ragged EdgeHVS 5a 17
 GO WALL  
195Never Say DieE2 5c *40
196Never SayE2 5b 4
197Never Say Never Again6c *69
198Eva Brawn7b+ *2
199JannockE4 5c 3
200Jannock DirectE4 6a/b 2
201BlitzkreigE4 6a *12
202Lion HeartE5 6a *4
203Der FührerE3 5c *5
204Der Führer (direct start)E4 6a *2
205Kaiser WallE3 6a ***69
206Mein KampfE5 6b **4
207Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)7b *1
208Heil Hitler7a **73
209Heil Hitler! Pitch 17a *5
210Lurking Smear7a *60
211Lurking Sear7c+ *27
212Lurking FearE4 6a 1
213Stairway to HeavenE2 5c **16
214King KongE1 5b ***261
215PrimevalE6 6c *1
216I'm Evil (Primeval direct)E6 6c ***1
217Vulture SquadronE3 6a ***15
218Big DongE3 5c *14
219Howling at the MoonE5 6a **3
220Interstellar OverdriveE5 6b ***1
221Empire State ExperienceE4 5c 4
222Kangaroo WallE2 6a ***109
223Crocodile TearsE4 6b 2
224Cat GutE4 * 
225Hyena CageE4 6a ***15
226Dog Eat DogE5 6a ***8
227The JackalE5 6a ***24
228FelineE5 6b ***4
229Endangered SpeciesE3 5c 4
230Natural SelectionE3 5c  
231ZebrazoneE1 5b 5
232I Used to Be a Werewolf...E3 5c 1
233Chase Darkness AwayE2 5b  
234Tony6c+ 3
235John7a 1
236SurrealistE1 5b **101
237FugaziE1 5c 4
238Beside MyselfE3 5c 4
239IncubusE1 5b 5
240Come and Get ItE1 5c  
241UrizenVS 4c 4
242Uriah HeapE1 5b 1
243AhariaVS 5a 1
244What's New Pussycat?E5 6a  
245Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction7c ***3
246ParasolE4 6b  
247Parasol for a Beautiful DayA1 1
248Monosculpture7c * 
249Big Bad WolfE6 6b **2
250Slinkin' LeopardE3 6a * 
251Joe the LionE3 6a 5
252Joe the Lion (direct start)E5 6b  
253The Isle of Dogs7a+ *12
254In QuarantineE2 5c  
255Fond AdieuE4 6b *2
256Never Say GoodbyeE2 5c 71
257'Goodbye'E4 6b  
258Liquid LeatherE3 6a 8
259Surreal Thing7a+ 8
260Hell: Just for Leather7b 4
261Power GamesE4 6b *3
262Captain BeakyE2 5c *5
263One CockatooE3 6a  
264The Real MacawE3 6a  
265Blow the House DownE5 6b * 
266The Perfumed GardenE1 5b 38
267Kama SutraHS 4a 17
268Blossom and BloodE2 5b 1
269Face TransplantE4 6a  
270Clank, Honk, TweetHVS 5a  
271The Umbrella GirdleE2 5c **10
272Zebra CrossingE3 5c ** 
273Burning GiraffeHVS 5a *26
274PussytalkE5 6b  
275LowGOE3 5c  
276Enter the DragonE4 6b  
277Animal MagicE4 6a  
278Real to Reel ExtensionE2 5c  
279Flanders FieldE4 6a  
280King LouieE2 5b  
 WOODCROFT QUARRY  
282DaydreamHVS 4c 1
283Nightmare of Brown SugarE3 5c *29
284Nightmare of Brown TrousersE5 6a *1
285The Devil's TrousersE4 6a *4
286Elementary Dear WatsonE1 5a 1
287Hannah Madden's RainbowE2 5c *1
288Still Nice and Sleazy6a+ **127
289Back on the GameVS 4c 10
290CasualtyE2 5b 2
291Industrial DiseaseHVS 5a 3
292Tea for One6a+ 11
293A Blast from the Past6c *59
294Gunshot Wound to the Head6c+ 66
295First StepsE2 5b 2
296Out of your tree5+ 29
297Ankarana6a 34
298Much Zebu Crudness6b **23
299Let That Be A Lesson4+ *24
300Don't Lower the Tone7a+ 21
301A Slender ThreadE3 6a *3
302Caveat Emptor6a 26
303Dog of the Month6a+ 25
304Be Gentle4+ 7
305Moving On Up6a *54
306A Bit On The Side6a 13
307C.W.A. for the Mitchell BrothersE3 5b 1
308Lady Tata and the camels ballsE2 5b 1
309Delicious6a 11
310Slimming in the Rain4+ 59
311Rippled and Toned7a 33
312The Fire EscapeE2 5b 8
313Lean Dark Hombre6c+ 19
314Two Mules for Sister Sara6b+ 22
315Bronco LayneHVS 5a 3
316Betty BooE2 5b 2
317Ally OopsE2 5b 5
318Raison d'ÊtreE3 5c 2
319Cum Black JohnnyE3 5c 8
320Saudi air6b 54
321Razors EdgeHVS 5a 2
322GeyerHVS 5a 4
323Rocking RobinHVS 5a 1
324Don't give a flying FridgeE2 5b 1
325First of ManyVS 4b 1
 WAREHOUSE WALL  
327Dooglie Ooglie6c 3
328Are they inviting6b 6
329The Italian G6c 3
330The Boy Did Good6a+ 7
 FLY WALL  
332GadflyVS 4c 7
333PapillonE2 5b *105
334ButterflyVS 4c *385
335MothHS 4b *371
336Time FliesE2 5b 3
337Flies RiseHVS 5a *51
338PoetVS 4c 27
339Bzzz SplatHVS 5a 4
340Fly or DieE3 5c 5
341SwatterHVS 5a *144
342Fly LogicE4 6b 8
343The SplitVS 5a *249
344Split FliesE3 6a *30
345EclipticE1 5b 66
346Mosquito BiteE1 5b *70
347African Killer BeeVS 4c **179
348PhoenixHS 4b 153
349Dazed and ConfusedHVS 5a *73
350A Fly In The EyeE3 5c *42
351FreedomVS 4c ***337
352Freedom DirectHVS 5b 21
353Swallow's NestVS 4c **312
354FlyawayE1 5a 7
355FlyteHVS 5b *24
356Fly HavocE3 5c 3
357FlyholeVS 4b,5a 63
358Balls OutE2 5b *23
359Bulging FliesE2 5c 41
360Fly The FlagE4 6a **2
361FlyoverE3 6a **21
362FlypastE3 5a,6a 4
363Strangled FlyE3 6a 1
364La FolieE4 6a ***11
365FireflyE2 5c ***78
366WurlitzerE1 5c **114
367I FlyE4 6a 1
368Lord of the FliesE2 5b *5
369GendarmerieE4 5c **22
370DragonflyHVS 5a *112
371Jet StreamE3 5c *2
372ZipperE2 5b 5
373Little FlyE2 5b *6
374Big FlyHVS 1
375Big Fly DirectE1 5a ***86
376IdealistE5 6a **1
377Flies AloftE4 6a/b ***3
378Jos'e and the FlyVS 5a 49
379That Nice RouteE1 5b 4
380The Height BelowE3 5b,5c 1
381End of the AffairE1 5b 2
382EndgameHVS 5a/b 4
383An Android's DreamE3 5c *3
384ChameleonVS 1
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Access notes
Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. Two or three cars will fit in a small square pull-off near the WL Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Climbing is only permitted from the North Buttress upto and including Fly Wall. The landowner of North Wall NO LONGER permits climbers to exit via his garden, which currently means the final pitches of routes that require this can not be climbed. BMC are looking to construct an abseil station in the nearish future, until them climbers will need to abseil off from the middle ledge. It might be a good idea to take some tat with you just in case.

The landowner of GO Wall permits climbing all year round, but has requested that no exit is made across his land at the top from April to September inclusive. Abseil stations are installed so there should be no need to cross his land even outside these times.

Importantly, maintain a low profile keep the noise down to avoid disturbing the village of Woodcroft.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13

Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13

The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BB1 - 27/Oct/12

That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12

The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12

There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12

Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Woodcroft-SC-May-11.pdf . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11

A video of the crux of Zelda is at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
TobyA - 01/Jan/08

A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07

I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07

enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06

First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06

The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06

Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05

I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05

recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04

Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04

Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04

A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03

Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03