Wintour's Leap

Climbs 387 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features

The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

Approach notes

Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. You can approach via Woodcroft Quarry, or take the Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Access notes

There are currently nesting restrictions in place, check the BMC access notes and please be aware of signs placed locally

Climbing is only permitted from the North Buttress upto and including Fly Wall. The landowner of North Wall NO LONGER permits climbers to exit via his garden, which currently means the final pitches of routes that require this can not be climbed. The BMC have constructed an abseil station on the Great Ledge (dual 50m ropes required). The landowner of GO Wall permits climbing all year round, but has requested that no exit is made across his land at the top from April to September inclusive. Abseil stations are installed so there should be no need to cross his land even outside these times. Importantly, maintain a low profile keep the noise down to avoid disturbing the village of Woodcroft.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH WALL  
2 Avant GardeE2 5b  
3AndromedaE1 5b *63
4The Secret GardenE2 5b 1
5Script for a Jester's Tear6c+ 11
6Turmoil of a White Ocean6b+ *40
7Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo6b+ *5
8Sweeter Than SugarE4 6a *13
9Agamemnon6c *35
10Electra6c+ 9
11AlluviumE1 5c 1
12AntediluvianE3 5c  
13White FeatherE3 5c **45
14One Time One NightE3 5c  
15Yesterday's DreamsE2 5c **162
16AchillesE3 5c 2
17The RingE1 5b *4
18The Angel's GirdleVS 5a ***106
19A Calm Sea and a Prosperous VoyageE3 6a *1
20Cross-ExaminationE3 6a ** 
21Event HorizonE2 5c 1
22VerdictE2 5c  
23CantassiumE2 5c 1
24GrykeHVS 5a 38
25Punch and JudyE2 5b *16
26Suspect DeviceHVS 4c 7
27Left Hand RouteHS 4b **479
28ExodusE2 5c **25
29Powers of PersuasionE2 5b 10
30TarnhelmHVS 5a 17
31Great North Wall RouteHVS 4c *22
32SimplexVS 4c *158
33First DegreeE4 6c  
34Entrance ExamE4 5c *23
35Priory Road7b+ 20
36Highway to the DangerzoneE4 6b 8
37We've got the Honeymoon BluesE4 6a 4
38ApologyE4 6a  
39Swansong PreludeE2 5b *78
40The Valley RoadHVS 5a 2
41RheingoldE1 5b 4
42Central RouteVS 4b 45
43RheinfahrtHVS 4c 17
44The TapHVS 4c *124
45Under a Blood Red SkyE1 5b 4
46ErdaE1 5a *32
47LifebloodE2 5c 1
48NotungE1 5a/5b ***243
49AqualungE3 5c 5
50SwansongE4 5c **39
51The Song Remains the SameE2 5b 17
52The Wrong TapHVS 5a *58
53BacchanalianHS 4b *93
54Finishing Under a Blood Red SkyHVS 4c 10
55Notung ForgedE1 5b 16
56Swansong PostludeHVS 5a 7
57NibelheimVS 4c **494
58Right Hand RouteHS 4b 276
59Strawberry DustE2 5b 1
60ClaireE2 5c 1
61XenophobiaE2 5c  
62Tower RouteE3 5c 15
63Big BrotherE2 5c **63
64Big Brother DirectE3 5c *15
65Sweetheart ContractE5 6a 1
66Strange Little GirlE4 6a ***46
67The Angel's ArÍteE4 6a *2
68The Angel's ArÍte (original)E4 6a  
69Towering AngelsE2 5b 2
70Angelic InfernoE4 6c  
71The Angel's EyeHVS 5b *310
72Blood TestE2 5b  
73Banana CrunchE2 5b 4
74Acid TestE3 5c **10
75Sold OutE4 6a * 
76Special OfferHVS 5a 4
77Final ReductionE3 5c  
78Joe's RouteVS 4c *346
79Joe DirectHVS 5a 4
80AdriftHVS 5a 1
81FranticHVS 5a  
82MysticHVS 5a  
83AnalyticVS  
84ScaroticHVS  
85PsychoticVS 4c *82
86CrypticHVS 5a 35
87NarcoticVS 3
88QuixoticE4 5c 1
89Men of GwentE1 5b *24
90Suicide is DangerousE3 5c *11
91Digitus ExtractusHVS 5a  
 GREAT WALL  
93Under a Raging MoonE2 5c 2
94Northerners Can't ClimbE1 5b 1
95Compost WallS 2
96Gemmell's GrooveS 1
97Loads' LidsVD 2
98Original RouteVD *207
99Too Clever by HalfE3 6a *3
100The Rising SunHVS 5a 6
101John's RouteHS 122
 THE CENTRAL BAY  
103Crystal TipsHVS 5b 16
104Paul's WallHVS 5a 47
105Spinal TapE3 5c/6a 4
106Grey WallVS 4c 106
107Espresso BongoE1 5b 5
108Corner Buttress Route 1VD 403
109Corner Buttress Route 2VD 296
110Corner Buttress Route 3M 75
111The Problemsnone 5b 10
112Cement GrooveD 129
113Direct RouteVD 94
114Direct Route (Severe Finish)S 4a 18
115Pig IronE1 5b 62
116Black Wall LeftHVS 5a 44
117Black WallHVS 4c 124
118Andy's routeHS 4b 1
119Wye KnotD *34
120Save me from TomorrowE2 5b 25
121Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)HVS 5a 3
122Rudely InterruptedE2 6a 1
123Centre of the Bay RouteS 21
124Terry's Left Hand FinishS 4a 21
125AnotherVS 4c 7
126Terry's Right-hand FinishHS 64
127Terry's TwinVS 4c 38
128Terry's Gone CrackersVS 4c 31
129TeryakiHS 4b 1
130Ridge BypassM 12
131Ridge RouteM 27
 SOUTH BAY  
133Wildlife6c 4
134Microserf6c+ **21
135Valley ForgeE2 5c *41
136Yr HerwehlaE1 5b 38
137Fear Is the KeyHVS 5a 2
138TherapyE2 5c *32
139PsychoE3 5c 4
140Pulp FrictionE4 6a *1
141VapourWareE2 5c *5
142Feline FrolicsE3 5c 6
143When the Wind BlowsE3 5c 1
144Morning Glory6a+ 6
145Loan SharkE3 6a 11
146MeningectomyE6 6a/b **2
147Debt RecoveryE2 5c 4
148Bottle ButtressVD 3c *288
149Bottle OutE1 5b *18
150Bottle Buttress DirectVS 4c 74
151CodaE3 5c 2
152PrangE1 5a 2
153Gotta lotta bottleVS 4c 10
154Last Of The WineE3 6a 2
155MeningitisE4 5c 4
156Broken BottleE1 5b 20
157Childhood's EndE2 5c **35
158Clutching at StrawsE2 5c *7
159Age of EnlightenmentE1 5b *44
160Camp Freddies BoilVS 4c 1
161Central Rib Route IS 4a **848
162Central Rib Route IIIVD ***266
163Central Rib Route IIVS 5a *178
 DECEIVER BUTTRESS  
165John BennettE1 5b 2
166An Android's DreamE3 5c *3
167Do What You WantE5 6b **1
168Agent OrangeE2 5c 6
169Sleight of HandE1 5b *44
170Scaremonger6c+ **24
171Easier Said than Done7b **9
172The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver7a ***13
173Better Late than Never7a *8
174Stay Mellow6c+ *9
175Out-a-Sight7a+ **5
176'Yeeaaghhh!'7a 6
 FAR SOUTH BAY  
178The Early Morning TraverseVS 3
179AnticipationE2 5c 3
180ArabesqueHVS 5b 5
181Themeninblack; the SoundtrackE3 5c *1
182GretaHS 4b **228
183SentaHVS 5a 19
184ThemeninblackE3 5b **17
185ZeldaHS 4b ***899
186Sweetest VictoryE2 5c 6
187Hunky DoreE1 5a 12
188Waiting for ThemeninblackE4 6a 5
189GuythaHVS 5a, 5a *180
190Gospel: According to ThemeninblackE4 6a 2
191LlamaE1 5b *11
192PumaHVS 5a **84
193CobraHVS 8
194CheetahHVS 5a **214
195Let Us PreyE1 5a **20
196The Ragged EdgeHVS 5a 18
 GO WALL  
198Never Say DieE2 5c *55
199Never SayE2 5b 5
200Never Say Never Again6c *84
201Eva Brawn7b+ *2
202JannockE4 5c 3
203Jannock DirectE4 6a/b 2
204BlitzkreigE4 6a *15
205Lion HeartE5 6a *5
206Der FŁhrerE3 5c *6
207Der FŁhrer (direct start)E4 6a *4
208Kaiser WallE3 6a ***101
209Mein KampfE5 6b **6
210Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)7b *2
211Heil Hitler7a **91
212Heil Hitler! Pitch 17a *19
213Lurking Smear7a *68
214Lurking Sear7c+ *29
215Lurking FearE4 6a 2
216Stairway to HeavenE2 5c **25
217King KongE1 5b ***340
218PrimevalE6 6c *1
219I'm Evil (Primeval direct)E6 6c ***1
220Vulture SquadronE3 6a ***22
221Big DongE3 5c *16
222Howling at the MoonE5 6a **3
223Interstellar OverdriveE5 6b ***1
224Empire State ExperienceE4 5c 5
225Kangaroo WallE2 6a ***135
226Crocodile TearsE4 6b 2
227Cat GutE4 * 
228Hyena CageE4 6a ***25
229Dog Eat DogE5 6a ***14
230The JackalE5 6a ***33
231FelineE5 6b ***6
232Endangered SpeciesE3 5c 5
233Natural SelectionE3 5c 1
234ZebrazoneE1 5b 7
235I Used to Be a Werewolf...E3 5c 1
236Chase Darkness AwayE2 5b  
237Tony6c+ 4
238John7a 2
239SurrealistE1 5b **123
240FugaziE1 5c 5
241Beside MyselfE3 5c 4
242IncubusE1 5b 5
243Come and Get ItE1 5c  
244UrizenVS 4c 4
245Uriah HeapE1 5b 1
246AhariaVS 5a 1
247What's New Pussycat?E5 6a  
248Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction7c ***3
249ParasolE4 6b 1
250Parasol for a Beautiful DayA1 1
251Monosculpture7c * 
252Big Bad WolfE6 6b **2
253Slinkin' LeopardE3 6a * 
254Joe the LionE3 6a 6
255Joe the Lion (direct start)E5 6b  
256The Isle of Dogs7a+ *16
257In QuarantineE2 5c 1
258Fond AdieuE4 6b *4
259Never Say GoodbyeE2 5c 91
260'Goodbye'E4 6b  
261Liquid LeatherE3 6a 9
262Surreal Thing7a+ 10
263Hell: Just for Leather7b 4
264Power GamesE4 6b *4
265Captain BeakyE2 5c *6
266One CockatooE3 6a 1
267The Real MacawE3 6a  
268Blow the House DownE5 6b * 
269The Perfumed GardenE1 5b 42
270Kama SutraHS 4a 20
271Blossom and BloodE2 5b 1
272Face TransplantE4 6a  
273Clank, Honk, TweetHVS 5a  
274The Umbrella GirdleE2 5c **10
275Zebra CrossingE3 5c **1
276Burning GiraffeHVS 5a *28
277PussytalkE5 6b  
278LowGOE3 5c  
279Enter the DragonE4 6b  
280Animal MagicE4 6a  
281Real to Reel ExtensionE2 5c 1
282Flanders FieldE4 6a  
283King LouieE2 5b  
 WOODCROFT QUARRY  
285DaydreamHVS 4c 1
286Nightmare of Brown SugarE3 5c *35
287Nightmare of Brown TrousersE5 6a *1
288The Devil's TrousersE4 6a *5
289Elementary Dear WatsonE1 5a 1
290Hannah Madden's RainbowE2 5c *1
291Still Nice and Sleazy6a+ **204
292Men Without HatsVS 4c 1
293Back on the GameVS 4c 16
294Passing The BuckVS 4c 1
295CasualtyE2 5b 4
296Industrial DiseaseHVS 5a 6
297Tea for One6a+ 19
298A Blast from the Past6c *79
299Gunshot Wound to the Head6c+ 97
300First StepsE2 5b 2
301Out of your tree5c 75
302See It, Sort It!6b 3
303Ankarana6a 76
304Much Zebu Crudness6b **55
305A Parched LandscapeHVS 4b 2
306Let That Be A Lesson4c *57
307Don't Lower the Tone7a+ 28
308A Slender ThreadE3 6a *4
309Caveat Emptor6a 48
310Dog of the Month6a+ 49
311Be Gentle4c 36
312Moving On Up6a *125
313A Bit On The Side6a 38
314C.W.A. for the Mitchell BrothersE3 5b 2
315Lady Tata and the camels ballsE2 5b 1
316Delicious6a 13
317Slimming in the Rain4c 120
318Rippled and Toned7a 50
319The Fire EscapeE2 5b 16
320Lean Dark Hombre6c+ 36
321Two Mules for Sister Sara6b+ 28
322Bronco LayneHVS 5a 3
323Betty BooE2 5b 2
324Ally OopsE2 5b 5
325Raison d' treE3 5c 3
326Cum Black JohnnyE3 5c 10
327Saudi air6b 86
328Razors EdgeHVS 5a 6
329GeyerHVS 5a 6
330Rocking RobinHVS 5a 1
331Don't give a flying FridgeE2 5b 1
332First of ManyVS 4b 3
333Dog Dave AfternoonE3 5c 1
334My Friend GooHVS 4c 1
 WAREHOUSE WALL  
336Dooglie Ooglie6c 5
337Are they inviting6b 11
338The Italian G6c 9
339The Boy Did Good6a+ 12
 FLY WALL  
341GadflyVS 4c 8
342PapillonE2 5b *130
343ButterflyVS 4c *508
344MothHS 4b *482
345Time FliesE2 5b 3
346Flies RiseHVS 5a *68
347PoetVS 4c 35
348PeasantVS 4b 3
349Bzzz SplatHVS 5a 7
350Fly or DieE3 5c 8
351SwatterHVS 5a *179
352Fly LogicE4 6b 10
353The SplitVS 5a *302
354Muchos ButchosE2 5b 2
355Split FliesE3 6a *40
356EclipticE1 5b 83
357Mosquito BiteE1 5b *77
358African Killer BeeVS 4c **247
359PhoenixHS 4b 195
360Dazed and ConfusedHVS 5a *107
361A Fly In The EyeE3 5c *49
362FreedomVS 4c ***426
363Freedom DirectHVS 5b 36
364Swallow's NestVS 4c **400
365FlyawayE1 5a 8
366FlyteHVS 5b *27
367Fly HavocE3 5c 5
368FlyholeVS 4b,5a 74
369Balls OutE2 5b *30
370Bulging FliesE2 5c 52
371Fly The FlagE4 6a **6
372FlyoverE3 6a **28
373FlypastE3 5a,6a 5
374Strangled FlyE3 6a 1
375La FolieE4 6a ***18
376FireflyE2 5c ***97
377WurlitzerE1 5c **147
378I FlyE4 6a 1
379Lord of the FliesE2 5b *12
380GendarmerieE4 5c **31
381DragonflyHVS 5a *139
382Jet StreamE3 5c *2
383ZipperE2 5b 5
384Little FlyE2 5b *6
385Big FlyHVS 2
386Big Fly DirectE1 5a ***119
387IdealistE5 6a **1
388Flies AloftE4 6a/b ***4
389Jos'e and the FlyVS 5a 69
390That Nice RouteE1 5b 4
391The Height BelowE3 5b,5c 2
392End of the AffairE1 5b 2
393EndgameHVS 5a/b 5
394ChameleonVS 2
395Mr Blissful went to BristolE3 5b *1
396Rear AdmiralE2 5c 1
397The Man From UncleE2 5b *1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer treforsouthwell

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Last week the GO Wall was out of bounds due to nesting restrictions, but this may change.
treforsouthwell - 09/May/15
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13
Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13
The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BB1 - 27/Oct/12
That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12
Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Woodcroft-SC-May-11.pdf . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11
A video of the crux of Zelda is at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
TobyA - 01/Jan/08
A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07
I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07
enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06
First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06
The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06
Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05
I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05
recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04
Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04
A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03
Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03