Wintour's Leap

Climbs 377 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

Access notes
Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. Two or three cars will fit in a small square pull-off near the WL Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Climbing is only permitted from the North Buttress upto and including Fly Wall. The landowner of North Wall NO LONGER permits climbers to exit via his garden, which currently means the final pitches of routes that require this can not be climbed. BMC are looking to construct an abseil station in the nearish future, until them climbers will need to abseil off from the middle ledge. It might be a good idea to take some tat with you just in case.

The landowner of GO Wall permits climbing all year round, but has requested that no exit is made across his land at the top from April to September inclusive. Abseil stations are installed so there should be no need to cross his land even outside these times.

Importantly, maintain a low profile keep the noise down to avoid disturbing the village of Woodcroft.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 NORTH WALL 
2Avant GardeE2 5b
3AndromedaE1 5b *
4The Secret GardenE2 5b
5Script for a Jester's Tear6c+
6Turmoil of a White Ocean6b+ *
7Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo6b+ *
8Sweeter Than SugarE4 6a *
9Agamemnon6c *
10Electra6c+
11AlluviumE1 5c
12AntediluvianE3 5c
13White FeatherE3 5c **
14One Time One NightE3 5c
15Yesterday's DreamsE2 5c **
16AchillesE3 5c
17The RingE1 5b *
18The Angel's GirdleVS 5a ***
19A Calm Sea and a Prosperous VoyageE3 6a *
20Cross-ExaminationE3 6a **
21Event HorizonE2 5c
22VerdictE2 5c
23CantassiumE2 5c
24GrykeHVS 5a
25Punch and JudyE2 5b *
26Suspect DeviceHVS 4c
27Left Hand RouteHS 4b **
28ExodusE2 5c **
29Powers of PersuasionE2 5b
30TarnhelmHVS 5a
31Great North Wall RouteHVS 4c *
32SimplexVS 4c *
33First DegreeE4 6c
34Entrance ExamE4 5c *
35Priory Road7b+
36Highway to the DangerzoneE4 6b
37We've got the Honeymoon BluesE4 6a
38ApologyE4 6a
39Swansong PreludeE2 5b *
40The Valley RoadHVS 5a
41RheingoldE1 5b
42Central RouteVS 4b
43RheinfahrtHVS 4c
44The TapHVS 4c *
45Under a Blood Red SkyE1 5b
46ErdaE1 5a *
47LifebloodE2 5c
48NotungE1 5a/5b ***
49AqualungE3 5c
50SwansongE4 5c **
51The Song Remains the SameE2 5b
52The Wrong TapHVS 5a *
53BacchanalianHS 4b *
54Finishing Under a Blood Red SkyHVS 4c
55Notung ForgedE1 5b
56Swansong PostludeHVS 5a
57NibelheimVS 4c **
58Right Hand RouteHS 4b
59Strawberry DustE2 5b
60ClaireE2 5c
61XenophobiaE2 5c
62Tower RouteE3 5c
63Big BrotherE2 5c **
64Big Brother DirectE3 5c *
65Sweetheart ContractE5 6a
66Strange Little GirlE4 6a ***
67The Angel's ArêteE4 6a *
68The Angel's Arête (original)E4 6a
69Towering AngelsE2 5b
70Angelic InfernoE4 6c
71The Angel's EyeHVS 5b *
72Blood TestE2 5b
73Banana CrunchE2 5b
74Acid TestE3 5c **
75Sold OutE4 6a *
76Special OfferHVS 5a
77Final ReductionE3 5c
78Joe's RouteVS 4c *
79Joe DirectHVS 5a
80AdriftHVS 5a
81FranticHVS 5a
82MysticHVS 5a
83AnalyticVS
84ScaroticHVS
85PsychoticVS 4c *
86CrypticHVS 5a
87NarcoticVS
88QuixoticE4 5c
89Men of GwentE1 5b *
90Suicide is DangerousE3 5c *
91Digitus ExtractusHVS 5a
 GREAT WALL 
93Under a Raging MoonE2 5c
94Northerners Can't ClimbE1 5b
95Compost WallS
96Gemmell's GrooveS
97Loads' LidsVD
98Original RouteVD *
99Too Clever by HalfE3 6a *
100The Rising SunHVS 5a
101John's RouteHS
 THE CENTRAL BAY 
103Crystal TipsHVS 5b
104Paul's WallHVS 5a
105Spinal TapE3 5c/6a
106Grey WallVS 4c
107Espresso BongoE1 5b
108Corner Buttress Route 1VD
109Corner Buttress Route 2VD
110Corner Buttress Route 3M
111The Problemsnone 5b
112Cement GrooveD
113Direct RouteVD
114Direct Route (Severe Finish)S 4a
115Pig IronE1 5b
116Black Wall LeftHVS 5a
117Black WallHVS 4c
118Andy's routeHS 4b
119Wye KnotD *
120Save me from TomorrowE2 5b
121Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)HVS 5a
122Rudely InterruptedE2 6a
123Centre of the Bay RouteS
124Terry's Left Hand FinishS 4a
125AnotherVS 4c
126Terry's Right-hand FinishHS
127Terry's TwinVS 4c
128Terry's Gone CrackersVS 4c
129Ridge BypassM
130Ridge RouteM
 SOUTH BAY 
132Wildlife6c
133Microserf6c+ **
134Valley ForgeE2 5c *
135Yr HerwehlaE1 5b
136Fear Is the KeyHVS 5a
137TherapyE2 5c *
138PsychoE3 5c
139Pulp FrictionE4 6a *
140VapourWareE2 5c *
141Feline FrolicsE3 5c
142When the Wind BlowsE3 5c
143Morning Glory6a+
144Loan SharkE3 6a
145MeningectomyE6 6a/b **
146Debt RecoveryE2 5c
147Bottle ButtressVD 3c *
148Bottle OutE1 5b *
149Bottle Buttress DirectVS 4c
150CodaE3 5c
151PrangE1 5a
152Gotta lotta bottleVS 4c
153Last Of The WineE3 6a
154MeningitisE4 5c
155Broken BottleE1 5b
156Childhood's EndE2 5c **
157Clutching at StrawsE2 5c *
158Age of EnlightenmentE1 5b *
159Camp Freddies BoilVS 4c
160Central Rib Route IS 4a **
161Central Rib Route IIIVD ***
162Central Rib Route IIVS 5a *
 DECEIVER BUTTRESS 
164John BennettE1 5b
165Do What You WantE5 6b **
166Agent OrangeE2 5c
167Sleight of HandE1 5b *
168Scaremonger6c+ **
169Easier Said than Done7b **
170The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver7a ***
171Better Late than Never7a *
172Stay Mellow6c+ *
173Out-a-Sight7a+ **
174'Yeeaaghhh!'7a
 FAR SOUTH BAY 
176The Early Morning TraverseVS
177AnticipationE2 5c
178ArabesqueHVS 5b
179Themeninblack; the SoundtrackE3 5c *
180GretaHS 4b **
181SentaHVS 5a
182ThemeninblackE3 5b **
183ZeldaHS 4b ***
184Sweetest VictoryE2 5c
185Hunky DoreE1 5a
186Waiting for ThemeninblackE4 6a
187GuythaHVS 5a, 5a *
188Gospel: According to ThemeninblackE4 6a
189LlamaE1 5b *
190PumaHVS 5a **
191CobraHVS
192CheetahHVS 5a **
193Let Us PreyE1 5a **
194The Ragged EdgeHVS 5a
 GO WALL 
196Never Say DieE2 5c *
197Never SayE2 5b
198Never Say Never Again6c *
199Eva Brawn7b+ *
200JannockE4 5c
201Jannock DirectE4 6a/b
202BlitzkreigE4 6a *
203Lion HeartE5 6a *
204Der FührerE3 5c *
205Der Führer (direct start)E4 6a *
206Kaiser WallE3 6a ***
207Mein KampfE5 6b **
208Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)7b *
209Heil Hitler7a **
210Heil Hitler! Pitch 17a *
211Lurking Smear7a *
212Lurking Sear7c+ *
213Lurking FearE4 6a
214Stairway to HeavenE2 5c **
215King KongE1 5b ***
216PrimevalE6 6c *
217I'm Evil (Primeval direct)E6 6c ***
218Vulture SquadronE3 6a ***
219Big DongE3 5c *
220Howling at the MoonE5 6a **
221Interstellar OverdriveE5 6b ***
222Empire State ExperienceE4 5c
223Kangaroo WallE2 6a ***
224Crocodile TearsE4 6b
225Cat GutE4 *
226Hyena CageE4 6a ***
227Dog Eat DogE5 6a ***
228The JackalE5 6a ***
229FelineE5 6b ***
230Endangered SpeciesE3 5c
231Natural SelectionE3 5c
232ZebrazoneE1 5b
233I Used to Be a Werewolf...E3 5c
234Chase Darkness AwayE2 5b
235Tony6c+
236John7a
237SurrealistE1 5b **
238FugaziE1 5c
239Beside MyselfE3 5c
240IncubusE1 5b
241Come and Get ItE1 5c
242UrizenVS 4c
243Uriah HeapE1 5b
244AhariaVS 5a
245What's New Pussycat?E5 6a
246Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction7c ***
247ParasolE4 6b
248Parasol for a Beautiful DayA1
249Monosculpture7c *
250Big Bad WolfE6 6b **
251Slinkin' LeopardE3 6a *
252Joe the LionE3 6a
253Joe the Lion (direct start)E5 6b
254The Isle of Dogs7a+ *
255In QuarantineE2 5c
256Fond AdieuE4 6b *
257Never Say GoodbyeE2 5c
258'Goodbye'E4 6b
259Liquid LeatherE3 6a
260Surreal Thing7a+
261Hell: Just for Leather7b
262Power GamesE4 6b *
263Captain BeakyE2 5c *
264One CockatooE3 6a
265The Real MacawE3 6a
266Blow the House DownE5 6b *
267The Perfumed GardenE1 5b
268Kama SutraHS 4a
269Blossom and BloodE2 5b
270Face TransplantE4 6a
271Clank, Honk, TweetHVS 5a
272The Umbrella GirdleE2 5c **
273Zebra CrossingE3 5c **
274Burning GiraffeHVS 5a *
275PussytalkE5 6b
276LowGOE3 5c
277Enter the DragonE4 6b
278Animal MagicE4 6a
279Real to Reel ExtensionE2 5c
280Flanders FieldE4 6a
281King LouieE2 5b
 WOODCROFT QUARRY 
283DaydreamHVS 4c
284Nightmare of Brown SugarE3 5c *
285Nightmare of Brown TrousersE5 6a *
286The Devil's TrousersE4 6a *
287Elementary Dear WatsonE1 5a
288Hannah Madden's RainbowE2 5c *
289Still Nice and Sleazy6a+ **
290Back on the GameVS 4c
291CasualtyE2 5b
292Industrial DiseaseHVS 5a
293Tea for One6a+
294A Blast from the Past6c *
295Gunshot Wound to the Head6c+
296First StepsE2 5b
297Out of your tree5c
298Ankarana6a
299Much Zebu Crudness6b **
300Let That Be A Lesson4c *
301Don't Lower the Tone7a+
302A Slender ThreadE3 6a *
303Caveat Emptor6a
304Dog of the Month6a+
305Be Gentle4c
306Moving On Up6a *
307A Bit On The Side6a
308C.W.A. for the Mitchell BrothersE3 5b
309Lady Tata and the camels ballsE2 5b
310Delicious6a
311Slimming in the Rain4c
312Rippled and Toned7a
313The Fire EscapeE2 5b
314Lean Dark Hombre6c+
315Two Mules for Sister Sara6b+
316Bronco LayneHVS 5a
317Betty BooE2 5b
318Ally OopsE2 5b
319Raison d'ÊtreE3 5c
320Cum Black JohnnyE3 5c
321Saudi air6b
322Razors EdgeHVS 5a
323GeyerHVS 5a
324Rocking RobinHVS 5a
325Don't give a flying FridgeE2 5b
326First of ManyVS 4b
 WAREHOUSE WALL 
328Dooglie Ooglie6c
329Are they inviting6b
330The Italian G6c
331The Boy Did Good6a+
 FLY WALL 
333GadflyVS 4c
334PapillonE2 5b *
335ButterflyVS 4c *
336MothHS 4b *
337Time FliesE2 5b
338Flies RiseHVS 5a *
339PoetVS 4c
340Bzzz SplatHVS 5a
341Fly or DieE3 5c
342SwatterHVS 5a *
343Fly LogicE4 6b
344The SplitVS 5a *
345Muchos ButchosE2 5b
346Split FliesE3 6a *
347EclipticE1 5b
348Mosquito BiteE1 5b *
349African Killer BeeVS 4c **
350PhoenixHS 4b
351Dazed and ConfusedHVS 5a *
352A Fly In The EyeE3 5c *
353FreedomVS 4c ***
354Freedom DirectHVS 5b
355Swallow's NestVS 4c **
356FlyawayE1 5a
357FlyteHVS 5b *
358Fly HavocE3 5c
359FlyholeVS 4b,5a
360Balls OutE2 5b *
361Bulging FliesE2 5c
362Fly The FlagE4 6a **
363FlyoverE3 6a **
364FlypastE3 5a,6a
365Strangled FlyE3 6a
366La FolieE4 6a ***
367FireflyE2 5c ***
368WurlitzerE1 5c **
369I FlyE4 6a
370Lord of the FliesE2 5b *
371GendarmerieE4 5c **
372DragonflyHVS 5a *
373Jet StreamE3 5c *
374ZipperE2 5b
375Little FlyE2 5b *
376Big FlyHVS
377Big Fly DirectE1 5a ***
378IdealistE5 6a **
379Flies AloftE4 6a/b ***
380Jos'e and the FlyVS 5a
381That Nice RouteE1 5b
382The Height BelowE3 5b,5c
383End of the AffairE1 5b
384EndgameHVS 5a/b
385An Android's DreamE3 5c *
386ChameleonVS
387Mr Blissful went to BristolE3 5b *
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13
Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13
The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BB1 - 27/Oct/12
That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12
Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Woodcroft-SC-May-11.pdf . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11
A video of the crux of Zelda is at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
TobyA - 01/Jan/08
A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07
I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07
enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06
First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06
The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06
Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05
I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05
recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04
Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04
A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03
Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 28/May/2012
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