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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref ST 542961 (Landranger #162)

Wintour's Leap

Climbs 310 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

Weather forecast

Today	Wed	Thu	Fri	Sat
Light rain/ drizzle Sunny periods 3 °C	Dry Sunny periods 3 °C	Dry Broken cloud 2 °C	Dry Sunny periods 3 °C	Light rain/ drizzle Mainly cloudy 2 °C
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	NORTH WALL
2	Avant Garde	E2 5b
3	Andromeda	E1 5b *	20
4	The Secret Garden	E2 5b
5	Script for a Jester's Tear	F6c+	4
6	Turmoil of a White Ocean	F6b+ *	13
7	Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo	F6b+ *
8	Sweeter Than Sugar	E4 6a *	5
9	Agamemnon	F6c *	9
10	Electra	F6c+	5
11	Alluvium	E1 5c	1
12	Antediluvian	E3 5c
13	White Feather	E3 5c **	9
14	One Time One Night	E3 5c
15	Yesterday's Dreams	E2 5c **	55
16	Achilles	E3 5c
17	The Ring	E1 5b *	2
18	The Angel's Girdle	VS 5a ***	20
19	A Calm Sea and a Prosperous Voyage	E3 6a *
20	Cross-Examination	E3 6a **
21	Event Horizon	E2 5c
22	Verdict	E2 5c
23	Cantassium	E2 5c
24	Gryke	HVS 5a	4
25	Punch and Judy	E2 5b *	3
26	Suspect Device	HVS 4c	2
27	Left Hand Route	HS 4b **	136
28	Exodus	E2 5c **	12
29	Powers of Persuasion	E2 5b	1
30	Tarnhelm	HVS 5a	4
31	Great North Wall Route	HVS 4c *	5
32	Simplex	VS 4c *	57
33	First Degree	E4 6c
34	Entrance Exam	E4 5c *	8
35	Priory Road	F7b+	1
36	Highway to the Dangerzone	E4 6b	4
37	We've got the Honeymoon Blues	E4 6a
38	Apology	E4 6a
39	Swansong Prelude	E2 5b *	24
40	The Valley Road	HVS 5a
41	Rheingold	E1 5b	2
42	Central Route	VS 4b	19
43	Rheinfahrt	HVS 4c	4
44	The Tap	HVS 4c *	34
45	Under a Blood Red Sky	E1 5b	1
46	Erda	E1 5a *	6
47	Lifeblood	E2 5c
48	Notung	E1 5a/5b ***	57
49	Aqualung	E3 5c	1
50	Swansong	E4 5c **	12
51	The Song Remains the Same	E2 5b	2
52	The Wrong Tap	HVS 5a *	21
53	Bacchanalian	HS 4b *	35
54	Finishing Under a Blood Red Sky	HVS 4c	4
55	Notung Forged	E1 5b	6
56	Swansong Postlude	HVS 5a	2
57	Nibelheim	VS 4c **	101
58	Right Hand Route	HS 4b	70
59	Strawberry Dust	E2 5b
60	Claire	E2 5c
61	Xenophobia	E2 5c
62	Tower Route	E3 5c	1
63	Big Brother	E2 5c **	17
64	Big Brother Direct	E3 5c *	3
65	Sweetheart Contract	E5 6a
66	Strange Little Girl	E4 6a ***	11
67	The Angel's Arête	E4 6a *
68	The Angel's Arête (original)	E4 6a
69	Towering Angels	E2 5b
70	Angelic Inferno	E4 6c
71	The Angel's Eye	HVS 5b *	71
72	Blood Test	E2 5b
73	Banana Crunch	E2 5b	2
74	Acid Test	E3 5c **	2
75	Sold Out	E4 6a *
76	Special Offer	HVS 5a
77	Final Reduction	E3 5c
78	Joe's Route	VS 4c *	72
79	Joe Direct	HVS 5a	1
80	Adrift	HVS 5a
81	Frantic	HVS 5a
82	Mystic	HVS 5a
83	Analytic	VS
84	Scarotic	HVS
85	Psychotic	VS 4c *	23
86	Cryptic	HVS 5a	10
87	Narcotic	VS
88	Quixotic	E4 5c
89	Men of Gwent	E1 5b *	11
90	Suicide is Dangerous	E3 5c *	1
91	Digitus Extractus	HVS 5a
	GREAT WALL
93	Under a Raging Moon	E2 5c	1
94	Northerners Can't Climb	E1 5b	1
95	Compost Wall	S	1
96	Gemmell's Groove	S
97	Loads' Lids	VD
98	Original Route	VD *	61
99	John's Route	HS	24
	THE CENTRAL BAY
101	Crystal Tips	HVS 5b	6
102	Paul's Wall	HVS 5a	10
103	Spinal Tap	E3 5c/6a	2
104	Grey Wall	VS 4c	28
105	Espresso Bongo	E1 5b	3
106	Corner Buttress Route 1	VD	109
107	Corner Buttress Route 2	VD	57
108	Corner Buttress Route 3	M	10
109	The Problems	none 5b	4
110	Cement Groove	D	27
111	Direct Route	VD	17
112	Pig Iron	E1 5b	18
113	Black Wall Left	HVS 5a	5
114	Black Wall	HVS 4c	22
115	Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)	HVS 5a	1
116	Wye Knot	D *	5
117	Save me from Tomorrow	E2 5b	6
118	Centre of the Bay Route	S	6
119	Terry's Left Hand Finish	S 4a	7
120	Terry's Right-hand Finish	HS	11
121	Terry's Twin	VS 4c	5
122	Terry's Gone Crackers	HS 4b	8
123	Ridge Route	M	7
	SOUTH BAY
125	Wildlife	F6c	1
126	Microserf	F6c+ **	6
127	Valley Forge	E2 5c *	9
128	Yr Herwehla	E1 5b	6
129	Therapy	E2 5c *	2
130	VapourWare	E2 5c *	1
131	Loan Shark	E3 6a	1
132	Meningectomy	E6 6a/b **	1
133	Debt Recovery	E2 5c	1
134	Bottle Buttress	VD 3c *	63
135	Bottle Out	E1 5b *	6
136	Bottle Buttress Direct	VS 4c	23
137	Gotta lotta bottle	VS 4c	3
138	Last Of The Wine	E3 6a	2
139	Meningitis	E4 5c	1
140	Broken Bottle	E1 5b	9
141	Childhood's End	E2 5c **	14
142	Age of Enlightenment	E1 5b *	14
143	Clutching at Straws	E2 5c *	4
144	Central Rib Route I	S 4a **	222
145	Central Rib Route III	VD ***	122
146	Central Rib Route II	VS 5a *	40
	DECEIVER BUTTRESS
148	John Bennett	E1 5b	1
149	Agent Orange	E2 5c	3
150	Sleight of Hand	E1 5b *	9
151	Scaremonger	F6c+ **	9
152	Easier Said than Done	F7b **	4
153	The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver	F7a ***	7
154	Better Late than Never	F7a *	3
155	Stay Mellow	F6c+ *	5
156	Out-a-Sight	F7a+ **	2
157	'Yeeaaghhh!'	F7a	1
	FAR SOUTH BAY
159	The Early Morning Traverse	VS	2
160	Arabesque	HVS 5b	2

	Climb name	Grade	x

161	Greta	HS 4b **	79
162	Senta	HVS 5a	3
163	Themeninblack	E3 5b **	4
164	Zelda	HS 4b ***	244
165	Sweetest Victory	E2 5c	2
166	Hunky Dore	E1 5a	4
167	Guytha	HVS 5a, 5a *	46
168	Puma	HVS 4c **	19
169	Cheetah	HVS 5a **	66
170	Let Us Prey	E1 5a **	6
171	The Ragged Edge	HVS 5a	10
	GO WALL
173	Never Say Die	E2 5c *	10
174	Never Say Never Again	F6c *	28
175	Eva Brawn	F7b+ *	2
176	Jannock	E4 5c	1
177	Jannock Direct	E4 6a/b	2
178	Blitzkreig	E4 6a *	4
179	Lion Heart	E5 6a *	2
180	Der Führer	E3 5c *	1
181	Der Führer (direct start)	E4 6a *	1
182	Kaiser Wall	E3 6a ***	22
183	Mein Kampf	E5 6b **	3
184	Heil Hitler	F7a+ **	17
185	Lurking Smear	F7a *	19
186	Lurking Sear	F7c+ *	2
187	Lurking Fear	E4 6a	1
188	Stairway to Heaven	E2 5c **	11
189	King Kong	E1 5b ***	88
190	Primeval	E6 6c *
191	Vulture Squadron	E3 6a ***	3
192	Big Dong	E3 5c *	6
193	Howling at the Moon	E5 6a **
194	Interstellar Overdrive	E5 6b ***
195	Empire State Experience	E4 5c
196	Kangaroo Wall	E2 6a ***	30
197	Crocodile Tears	E4 6b
198	Cat Gut	E4 *
199	Hyena Cage	E4 6a ***	5
200	Dog Eat Dog	E5 6a ***	3
201	The Jackal	E5 6a ***	6
202	Feline	E5 6b ***
203	Endangered Species	E3 5c	1
204	Natural Selection	E3 5c
205	Zebrazone	E1 5b	1
206	I Used to Be a Werewolf...	E3 5c
207	Chase Darkness Away	E2 5b
208	Tony	F6c+	1
209	John	F7a
210	Surrealist	E1 5b **	45
211	Fugazi	E1 5c	4
212	Beside Myself	E3 5c	2
213	Incubus	E1 5b	1
214	Come and Get It	E1 5c
215	Urizen	VS 4c
216	Uriah Heap	E1 5b
217	Aharia	VS 5a
218	What's New Pussycat?	E5 6a
219	Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction	F7c ***	1
220	Parasol	E4 6b
221	Parasol for a Beautiful Day	A1
222	Monosculpture	F7c *
223	Big Bad Wolf	E6 6b **	1
224	Slinkin' Leopard	E3 6a *
225	Joe the Lion	E3 6a	2
226	Joe the Lion (direct start)	E5 6b
227	The Isle of Dogs	F7a+ *	7
228	In Quarantine	E2 5c
229	Fond Adieu	E4 6b *	1
230	Never Say Goodbye	E2 5c	21
231	'Goodbye'	E4 6b
232	Liquid Leather	E3 6a	3
233	Surreal Thing	F7a+	2
234	Hell: Just for Leather	F7b	1
235	Power Games	E4 6b *	1
236	Captain Beaky	E2 5c *	2
237	One Cockatoo	E3 6a
238	The Real Macaw	E3 6a
239	Blow the House Down	E5 6b *
240	The Perfumed Garden	E1 5b	15
241	Kama Sutra	HS 4a	9
242	Blossom and Blood	E2 5b
243	Face Transplant	E4 6a
244	Clank, Honk, Tweet	HVS 5a
245	The Umbrella Girdle	E2 5c **	2
246	Zebra Crossing	E3 5c **
247	Burning Giraffe	HVS 5a *	12
248	Pussytalk	E5 6b
249	LowGO	E3 5c
250	Enter the Dragon	E4 6b
251	Animal Magic	E4 6a
252	Real to Reel Extension	E2 5c
253	Flanders Field	E4 6a
254	King Louie	E2 5b
	WOODCROFT QUARRY
256	Nightmare of Brown Sugar	E3 5c *	10
257	Still Nice and Sleazy	F6a+ **	33
258	Back on the Game	VS 4c	2
259	Casualty	E2 5b	1
260	Industrial Disease	HVS 5a	2
261	A Blast from the Past	F6c *	14
262	Gunshot Wound to the Head	F6c+	15
263	Out of your tree	F5+	2
264	Ankarana	F6a	2
265	Don't Lower the Tone	F7a+	8
266	Caveat Emptor	F6a	6
267	Dog of the Month	F6a+	3
268	Slimming in the Rain	F4+	10
269	Rippled and Toned	F7a	10
270	The Fire Escape	E2 5b	1
271	Lean Dark Hombre	F6c+	1
272	Two Mules for Sister Sara	F6b+	4
273	Betty Boo	E2 5b	1
274	Ally Oops	E2 5b	2
275	Raison d'Être	E3 5c	1
276	Cum Black Johnny	E3 5c	5
277	Saudi air	F6b	20
	FLY WALL
279	Papillon	E2 5b *	31
280	Butterfly	VS 4c *	116
281	Moth	HS 4b *	136
282	Time Flies	E2 5b	3
283	Flies Rise	HVS 5a *	16
284	Poet	VS 4c	8
285	Bzzz Splat	HVS 5a	1
286	Fly or Die	E3 5c	1
287	Swatter	HVS 5a *	57
288	Fly Logic	E3 6a	4
289	The Split	VS 5a *	91
290	Split Flies	E3 6a *	12
291	Ecliptic	E1 5b	17
292	Mosquito Bite	E1 5b *	28
293	African Killer Bee	VS 4c	45
294	Phoenix	HS 4b	55
295	Dazed and Confused	HVS 5a *	23
296	A Fly In The Eye	E3 5c *	11
297	Freedom	VS 4c ***	115
298	Swallow's Nest	VS 4b **	100
299	Flyte	HVS 5b *	12
300	Fly Havoc	E3 5c	2
301	Flyhole	VS 4b,5a	33
302	Balls Out	E2 5b *	6
303	Bulging Flies	E2 5c	17
304	Flyover	E3 6a **	8
305	Strangled Fly	E3 6a	1
306	La Folie	E4 6a ***	2
307	Firefly	E2 5c ***	25
308	Wurlitzer	E1 5c **	37
309	Lord of the Flies	E2 5b *	3
310	Gendarmerie	E4 5c **	5
311	Dragonfly	HVS 5a *	31
312	Zipper	E2 5b	2
313	Little Fly	E2 5b *	2
314	Big Fly Direct	E1 5a ***	34
315	Flies Aloft	E4 6a/b ***	1
316	Jos'e and the Fly	VS 5a	18
317	That Nice Route	E1 5b	1
318	End of the Affair	E1 5b	2
319	Endgame	HVS 5a/b	2

The Ridge Wall, Link Centre
Swindon, WILTSHIRE
"Up to 10m moulded concrete wall with adjustable slab, moulded concrete 30m long traverse wall. Both by Bendcrete, built 1985. 70 sq m of wall surface: one side has a moveable slab for the..."
www.swindon.gov.uk/theridgeclimbingwall

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Access notes
Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. Two or three cars will fit in a small square pull-off near the WL Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Climbing is only permitted from the North Buttress upto and including Fly Wall. The landowner of North Wall graciously permits climbers to exit via his garden, but note that this does not represent right-of-way, and can change at any time. Signs (BMC) have been posted on the great ledge to encourage climbers to exit via two points at either end of the final finishing wall.

The landowner of GO Wall permits climbing all year round, but has requested that no exit is made across his land at the top from April to September inclusive. Abseil stations are installed so there should be no need to cross his land even outside these times.

Importantly, maintain a low profile keep the noise down to avoid disturbing the village of Woodcroft.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Campsites, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paz

USER FEEDBACK

A video of the crux of Zelda is at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
TobyA - 01/Jan/08

A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07

I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07

enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06

First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06

The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06

Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05

I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05

recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04

Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04

Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04

A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03

Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03

USER PHOTO GALLERY
Click to View all 89 photos of Wintour's Leap. You can Upload your photos of this crag

Freedom Direct (HVS 5b), Fly Wall, Wintours Leap

Jamie Ayres on Central Rib Route 1 S 4a, Wintour's Leap

Escaping the belay cave on the Burning Giraffe/Kangaroo Wall.

Nick 'Howling at the Moon' (first pitch, E4 6a), GO wall, Wintour's Leap.

Gaz repeating Jannock (E4 5c) again after his second removed a block from the crux. GO wall, Wintour's Leap.

The fantastic steep, crimpy, reachy slab at the top of Right Hand Route HS, Wintour's Leap