Climbs 396
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Low Tide at Wintour's Leap © Urgles

Crag features

The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

Approach notes

Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. You can approach via Woodcroft Quarry, or take the Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Restricted Access

There are currently nesting restrictions in place, check the BMC access notes and please be aware of signs placed locally

Climbing is only permitted from the North Buttress upto and including Fly Wall. The landowner of North Wall NO LONGER permits climbers to exit via his garden, which currently means the final pitches of routes that require this can not be climbed. The BMC have constructed an abseil station on the Great Ledge (dual 50m ropes required). The landowner of GO Wall permits climbing all year round, but has requested that no exit is made across his land at the top from April to September inclusive. Abseil stations are installed so there should be no need to cross his land even outside these times. Importantly, maintain a low profile keep the noise down to avoid disturbing the village of Woodcroft.

Last week the GO Wall was out of bounds due to nesting restrictions, but this may change.
springfall2008 - 09/May/15
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13
Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13
The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BB1 - 27/Oct/12
That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12
Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Woodcroft-SC-May-11.pdf . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11
A video of the crux of Zelda is at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
TobyA - 01/Jan/08
A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07
I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07
enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06
First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06
The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06
Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05
I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05
recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04
Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04
A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03
Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Wall 
2 Avant GardeE2 5b  
3AndromedaE1 5b *73
4The Secret Garden
-
E2 5b 1
5Script for a Jester's Tear6c+ 13
6Turmoil of a White Ocean
-
6b+ *43
7Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo
-
6b+ *5
8Sweeter Than SugarE4 6a *14
9Agamemnon
-
6c *36
10Electra
-
6c+ 9
11Alluvium
-
E1 5c 2
12Antediluvian
-
E3 5c  
13White Feather
-
E3 5c **49
14One Time One Night
-
E3 5c  
15Yesterday's Dreams
-
E2 5c **181
16AchillesE3 5c 4
17The RingE1 5b *4
18The Angel's GirdleVS 5a ***172
19A Calm Sea and a Prosperous VoyageE3 6a *1
20Cross-Examination
-
E3 6a ** 
21Event Horizon
-
E2 5c 1
22Verdict
-
E2 5c  
23Cantassium
-
E2 5c 1
24GrykeHVS 5a 42
25Punch and JudyE2 5b *21
26Suspect Device
-
HVS 4c 8
27Left Hand RouteHS 4b **557
28Exodus
-
E2 5c **28
29Powers of Persuasion
-
E2 5b 10
30TarnhelmHVS 5a 20
31Great North Wall RouteHVS 4c *24
32SimplexVS 4c *165
33First Degree
-
E4 6c  
34Entrance ExamE4 5c *23
35Priory Road7b+ 21
36Highway to the DangerzoneE4 6b 8
37We've got the Honeymoon Blues
-
E4 6a 4
38Apology
-
E4 6a  
39Swansong PreludeE2 5b *81
40The Valley Road
-
HVS 5a 2
41Rheingold
-
E1 5b 4
42Central RouteVS 4b 48
43Rheinfahrt
-
HVS 4c 18
44The TapHVS 4c *132
45Under a Blood Red Sky
-
E1 5b 4
46Erda
-
E1 5a *40
47Lifeblood
-
E2 5c 1
48NotungE1 5a/5b ***263
49Aqualung
-
E3 5c 5
50SwansongE4 5c **40
51The Song Remains the SameE2 5b 20
52The Wrong TapHVS 5a *62
53BacchanalianHS 4b *98
54Finishing Under a Blood Red SkyHVS 4c 10
55Notung ForgedE1 5b 16
56Swansong Postlude
-
HVS 5a 7
57NibelheimVS 4c **530
58Right Hand RouteHS 4b 301
59Strawberry Dust
-
E2 5b 1
60Claire
-
E2 5c 1
61Xenophobia
-
E2 5c  
62Tower Route
-
E3 5c 16
63Big Brother
-
E2 5c **67
64Big Brother DirectE3 5c *18
65Sweetheart Contract
-
E5 6a 1
66Strange Little Girl
-
E4 6a ***52
67The Angel's Aręte
-
E4 6a *2
68The Angel's Aręte (original)
-
E4 6a  
69Towering Angels
-
E2 5b 2
70Angelic Inferno
-
E4 6c  
71The Angel's EyeHVS 5b *335
72Blood Test
-
E2 5b  
73Banana Crunch
-
E2 5b 5
74Acid TestE3 5c **11
75Sold Out
-
E4 6a *1
76Special Offer
-
HVS 5a 5
77Final Reduction
-
E3 5c  
78Joe's RouteVS 4c *382
79Joe DirectHVS 5a 5
80Adrift
-
HVS 5a 1
81Frantic
-
HVS 5a  
82Mystic
-
HVS 5a  
83Analytic
-
VS  
84Scarotic
-
HVS  
85Psychotic
-
VS 4c *91
86Cryptic
-
HVS 5a 43
87Narcotic
-
VS 5
88Quixotic
-
E4 5c 2
89Men of GwentE1 5b *29
90Suicide is Dangerous
-
E3 5c *13
91Digitus Extractus
-
HVS 5a  
 Great Wall 
93Under a Raging Moon
-
E2 5c 2
94Northerners Can't Climb
-
E1 5b 1
95Compost Wall
-
S 3
96Gemmell's Groove
-
S 1
97Loads' Lids
-
VD 4
98Original RouteVD *217
99Too Clever by HalfE3 6a *3
100The Rising Sun
-
HVS 5a 7
101John's Route
-
HS 137
 The Central Bay 
103Crystal Tips
-
HVS 5b 16
104Paul's Wall
-
HVS 5a 48
105Spinal TapE3 5c/6a 4
106Grey Wall
-
VS 4c 118
107Espresso Bongo
-
E1 5b 5
108Corner Buttress Route 1
-
VD 443
109Corner Buttress Route 2
-
VD 332
110Corner Buttress Route 3
-
M 81
111The Problemsnone 5b 10
112Cement Groove
-
D 151
113Direct Route
-
VD 98
114Direct Route (Severe Finish)S 4a 19
115Pig Iron
-
E1 5b 64
116Black Wall Left
-
HVS 5a 46
117Black Wall
-
HVS 4c 136
118Andy's routeHS 4b 1
119Wye Knot
-
D *43
120Save me from TomorrowE2 5b 26
121Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)
-
HVS 5a 4
122Rudely InterruptedE2 6a 1
123Centre of the Bay RouteS 21
124Terry's Left Hand Finish
-
S 4a 22
125AnotherVS 4c 7
126Terry's Right-hand Finish
-
HS 72
127Terry's Twin
-
VS 4c 41
128Terry's Gone Crackers
-
VS 4c 35
129TeryakiHS 4b 1
130Ridge Bypass
-
M 16
131Ridge Route
-
M 35
 South Bay 
133Wildlife6c 4
134Microserf6c+ **23
135Valley Forge
-
E2 5c *45
136Yr HerwehlaE1 5b 41
137Fear Is the Key
-
HVS 5a 2
138TherapyE2 5c *36
139PsychoE3 5c 4
140Pulp Friction
-
E4 6a *1
141VapourWareE2 5c *5
142Feline FrolicsE3 5c 6
143When the Wind Blows
-
E3 5c 1
144Morning Glory6a+ 6
145Loan SharkE3 6a 12
146MeningectomyE6 6a/b **2
147Debt Recovery
-
E2 5c 4
148Bottle Buttress
-
VD 3c *345
149Bottle Out
-
E1 5b *19
150Bottle Buttress Direct
-
VS 4c 87
151Coda
-
E3 5c 2
152PrangE1 5a 2
153Gotta lotta bottle
-
VS 4c 12
154Last Of The WineE3 6a 2
155Meningitis
-
E4 5c 4
156Broken BottleE1 5b 25
157Childhood's End
-
E2 5c **40
158Clutching at Straws
-
E2 5c *8
159Age of Enlightenment
-
E1 5b *46
160Camp Freddies BoilVS 4c 1
161Central Rib Route IS 4a **941
162Central Rib Route III
-
VD ***290
163Central Rib Route IIVS 5a *184
 Deceiver Buttress 
165John Bennett
-
E1 5b 2
166An Android's DreamE3 5c *3
167Do What You WantE5 6b **1
168Agent Orange
-
E2 5c 6
169Sleight of HandE1 5b *44
170Scaremonger6c+ **26
171Easier Said than Done7b **9
172The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver7a ***15
173Better Late than Never7a *8
174Stay Mellow6c+ *9
175Out-a-Sight7a+ **5
176'Yeeaaghhh!'7a 6
 Far South Bay 
178The Early Morning Traverse
-
VS 4
179Anticipation
-
E2 5c 3
180Arabesque
-
HVS 5b 6
181Themeninblack; the Soundtrack
-
E3 5c *1
182GretaHS 4b **245
183SentaHVS 5a 20
184Themeninblack
-
E3 5b **19
185ZeldaHS 4b ***1078
186Sweetest VictoryE2 5c 6
187Hunky Dore
-
E1 5a 12
188Waiting for Themeninblack
-
E4 6a 5
189Guytha
-
HVS 5a, 5a *202
190Gospel: According to ThemeninblackE4 6a 2
191LlamaE1 5b *12
192PumaHVS 5a **93
193Cobra
-
HVS 9
194CheetahHVS 5a **233
195Let Us PreyE1 5a **23
196The Ragged Edge
-
HVS 5a 19
 GO Wall 
198Never Say DieE2 5c *62
199Never SayE2 5b 6
200Never Say Never Again6c *93
201Eva Brawn7b+ *3
202JannockE4 5c 3
203Jannock DirectE4 6a/b 2
204BlitzkreigE4 6a *15
205Lion HeartE5 6a *6
206Der Führer
-
E3 5c *6
207Der Führer (direct start)E4 6a *4
208Kaiser Wall
-
E3 6a ***108
209Mein KampfE5 6b **7
210Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)7b *3
211Heil Hitler7a **120
212Heil Hitler! Pitch 17a *26
213Lurking Smear7a *79
214Lurking Sear7c+ *30
215Lurking Fear
-
E4 6a 2
216Stairway to Heaven
-
E2 5c **30
217King KongE1 5b ***372
218Primeval
-
E6 6c *1
219I'm Evil (Primeval direct)E6 6c ***1
220Vulture SquadronE3 6a ***22
221Big DongE3 5c *18
222Howling at the MoonE5 6a **8
223Interstellar Overdrive
-
E5 6b ***1
224Empire State ExperienceE4 5c 6
225Kangaroo WallE2 6a ***153
226Crocodile Tears
-
E4 6b 2
227Cat Gut
-
E4 * 
228Hyena CageE4 6a ***36
229Dog Eat DogE5 6a ***15
230The JackalE5 6a ***38
231FelineE5 6b ***11
232Endangered Species
-
E3 5c 7
233Natural Selection
-
E3 5c 1
234ZebrazoneE2 5b 8
235I Used to Be a Werewolf...
-
E3 5c 1
236Chase Darkness Away
-
E2 5b  
237Tony6c+ 4
238John7a 2
239SurrealistE1 5b **138
240FugaziE1 5c 6
241Beside MyselfE3 5c 4
242Incubus
-
E1 5b 5
243Come and Get It
-
E1 5c  
244Urizen
-
VS 4c 5
245Uriah Heap
-
E1 5b 1
246Aharia
-
VS 5a 1
247What's New Pussycat?
-
E5 6a  
248Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction
-
7c ***3
249Parasol
-
E4 6b 1
250Parasol for a Beautiful Day
-
A1 1
251Monosculpture
-
7c * 
252Big Bad Wolf
-
E6 6b **2
253Slinkin' Leopard
-
E3 6a * 
254Joe the Lion
-
E3 6a 7
255Joe the Lion (direct start)
-
E5 6b  
256The Isle of Dogs7a+ *17
257In Quarantine
-
E2 5c 1
258Fond Adieu
-
E4 6b *4
259Never Say GoodbyeE2 5c 116
260'Goodbye'
-
E4 6b  
261Liquid LeatherE3 6a 10
262Surreal Thing7a+ 12
263Hell: Just for Leather
-
7b 4
264Power Games
-
E4 6b *4
265Captain BeakyE2 5c *9
266One Cockatoo
-
E3 6a 1
267The Real Macaw
-
E3 6a 1
268Blow the House Down
-
E5 6b * 
269The Perfumed GardenE1 5b 44
270Kama SutraHS 4a 22
271Blossom and Blood
-
E2 5b 1
272Face Transplant
-
E4 6a  
273Clank, Honk, Tweet
-
HVS 5a  
274The Umbrella GirdleE2 5c **13
275Zebra Crossing
-
E3 5c **1
276Burning Giraffe
-
HVS 5a *33
277Pussytalk
-
E5 6b  
278LowGO
-
E3 5c  
279Enter the Dragon
-
E4 6b  
280Animal Magic
-
E4 6a  
281Real to Reel Extension
-
E2 5c 1
282Flanders Field
-
E4 6a  
283King Louie
-
E2 5b  
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Sunny Wall 
285DaydreamHVS 4c 1
286Nightmare of Brown Sugar
-
E3 5c *36
287Nightmare of Brown TrousersE5 6a *1
288The Devil's TrousersE4 6a *5
289Lady Tata and the camels ballsE2 5b 1
290C.W.A. for the Mitchell BrothersE3 5b 2
291Delicious6a 19
292Hannah Madden's RainbowE2 5c *1
293Elementary Dear WatsonE1 5a 1
294Still Nice and Still Sleazy6a+ **256
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Basement Lift 
296Heisenberg's Uncertain Reach.6b+ *10
297Out of your tree
-
5c 105
298Dog Dave AfternoonE3 5c 1
299See It, Sort It!6b 5
300Ankarana
-
6a 95
301Much Zebu Crudness6b **70
302A Parched LandscapeHVS 4b 2
303Let That Be A Lesson4c *77
 Woodcroft Quarry - Upper Lift 
305Schrodinger's Cat, Earl6b *5
306The Ice MirrorE3 5c **1
307Playing Hooky6a+ 5
308Forty Years Apiece4c 7
309Men Without HatsVS 4c 2
310Back on the GameVS 4c 17
311Passing The BuckVS 4c 2
312Casualty
-
E2 5b 5
313Industrial Disease
-
HVS 5a 7
314Tea for One6a+ 21
315Meeting on a Jet Plane6a 4
 Woodcroft Quarry -Gunshot Sector/Latin Quarter 
317A Blast from the Past6c *83
318Gunshot Wound to the Head6c+ 110
319First Steps
-
E2 5b 2
320Don't Lower the Tone7a+ 31
321A Slender ThreadE3 6a *4
322Caveat Emptor6a 56
323Dog of the Month6a+ 56
324Henry Sucks5b 2
325Be Gentle4c 40
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Amphitheatre 
327Moving On Up6a *157
328A Bit On The Side6a 50
329Slimming in the Rain4c 142
330Rippled and Toned7a 58
331The Fire Escape
-
E2 5b 19
332Lean Dark Hombre6c+ 40
333Two Mules for Sister Sara6b+ 36
334Bronco LayneHVS 5a 3
335Betty Boo
-
E2 5b 2
336Ally Oops
-
E2 5b 5
337Raison d'Ętre
-
E3 5c 3
338Cum Black JohnnyE3 5c 12
339Saudi air6b 99
340GeyerHVS 5a 7
341Razors EdgeHVS 5a 7
 Woodcroft Quarry -Not The Warehouse Wall 
343Rocking RobinHVS 5a 1
344Don't give a flying FridgeE2 5b 1
345First of ManyVS 4b 4
346Dooglie Ooglie6c 6
347Are they inviting6b 16
348The New Neighbour6a+ 2
349The Italian G6c 10
350The Boy Did Good6a+ 15
351My Friend GooHVS 4c 1
 Fly Wall 
353GadflyVS 4c 9
354PapillonE2 5b *163
355ButterflyVS 4c *577
356MothHS 4b *565
357Time Flies
-
E2 5b 3
358Flies Rise
-
HVS 5a *81
359Poet
-
VS 4c 39
360PeasantVS 4b 6
361Bzzz SplatHVS 5a 7
362Fly or DieE3 5c 9
363Swatter
-
HVS 5a *199
364Fly LogicE4 6b 10
365The SplitVS 5a *341
366Muchos ButchosE2 5b 2
367Split Flies
-
E3 6a *40
368EclipticE1 5b 94
369Mosquito Bite
-
E1 5b *79
370African Killer BeeVS 4c **273
371PhoenixHS 4b 220
372Dazed and Confused
-
HVS 5a *123
373A Fly In The EyeE3 5c *52
374FreedomVS 4c ***469
375Freedom Direct Left FinishHVS 5a 1
376Freedom DirectHVS 5b 42
377Swallow's NestVS 4c **469
378FlyawayE1 5a 8
379FlyteHVS 5b *29
380Fly Havoc
-
E3 5c 5
381FlyholeVS 4b,5a 81
382Balls Out
-
E2 5b *31
383Bulging Flies
-
E2 5c 56
384Fly The FlagE4 6a **6
385FlyoverE3 6a **29
386FlypastE3 5a,6a 5
387Strangled Fly
-
E3 6a 1
388La Folie
-
E4 6a ***21
389Firefly
-
E2 5c ***124
390WurlitzerE1 5c **167
391I FlyE4 6a 1
392Lord of the Flies
-
E2 5b *13
393Gendarmerie
-
E4 5c **38
394DragonflyHVS 5a *154
395Jet StreamE3 5c *2
396ZipperE2 5b 7
397Little FlyE2 5b *8
398Big Fly
-
HVS 2
399Big Fly DirectE1 5a ***129
400IdealistE5 6a **1
401Flies AloftE4 6a/b ***4
402Jos'e and the FlyVS 5a 72
403That Nice RouteE1 5b 4
404The Height BelowE3 5b,5c 2
405End of the AffairE1 5b 2
406EndgameHVS 5a/b 5
407Chameleon
-
VS 2
408Mr Blissful went to BristolE3 5b *1
409Rear AdmiralE2 5c 1
410The Man From Uncle
-
E2 5b *1

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