Climbs 400
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Crag features

The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

Approach notes

Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. You can approach via Woodcroft Quarry, or take the Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village.

Restricted Access

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. This does not affect climbing up to the Great Ledge. For the time being, pitches above the Great Ledge are not possible and descent should be by abseil from one of the two bolted abseil stations above “The Tap” or “Joe’s Route”. Two or three abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall allowing the last pitches to be climbed, but please do not top out on these routes and use the abseil stations instead.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners do not allow climbing on this section of crag. If you do climb here, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall are privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Cleaned Microserf 6c+ on the South Bay yesterday which took a considerable amount of time. Intend doing same on Valley Forge (will replace missing tat too) and Therapy. Lots of other greta routes are in need of the same treatment, would appreciate any help in the coming months.
mike hope - 16/Sep/16
Deceiver buttress has fallen down
alan rosier - 02/Jul/16
Last week the GO Wall was out of bounds due to nesting restrictions, but this may change.
springfall2008 - 09/May/15
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13
Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13
The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BB1 - 27/Oct/12
That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12
Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11
A video of the crux of Zelda is at:
TobyA - 01/Jan/08
A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07
I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07
enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06
First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06
The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06
Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05
I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05
recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04
Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04
A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03
Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Wall 
2 Avant GardeE2 5b 1
3AndromedaE1 5b *76
4The Secret Garden
E2 5b 2
5Script for a Jester's Tear6c+ 15
6Turmoil of a White Ocean
6b+ *47
7Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo
6b+ *7
8Sweeter Than SugarE4 6a *14
6c *40
6c+ 10
E1 5c 2
E3 5c  
13White Feather
E3 5c **58
14One Time One Night
E3 5c  
15Yesterday's Dreams
E2 5c **206
16AchillesE3 5c 4
17The RingE1 5b *5
18The Angel's GirdleVS 5a ***181
19A Calm Sea and a Prosperous VoyageE3 6a *2
E3 6a **1
21Event Horizon
E2 5c 1
E2 5c  
E2 5c 1
24GrykeHVS 5a 48
25Punch and JudyE2 5b *23
26Suspect Device
HVS 4c 9
27Left Hand RouteHS 4b **595
E2 5c **32
29Powers of Persuasion
E2 5b 11
30TarnhelmHVS 5a 21
31Great North Wall RouteHVS 4c *31
32SimplexVS 4c *173
33First Degree
E4 6c  
34Entrance ExamE4 5c *28
35Priory Road7b+ 21
36Highway to the DangerzoneE4 6b 8
37We've got the Honeymoon Blues
E4 6a 4
E4 6a  
39Swansong PreludeE2 5b *87
40The Valley Road
HVS 5a 3
E1 5b 4
42Central RouteVS 4b 49
HVS 4c 18
44The TapHVS 4c *149
45Under a Blood Red Sky
E1 5b 5
E1 5a *41
E2 5c 1
48NotungE1 5a/5b ***314
E3 5c 5
50SwansongE4 5c **46
51The Song Remains the SameE2 5b 21
52The Wrong TapHVS 5a *71
53BacchanalianHS 4b *117
54Finishing Under a Blood Red SkyHVS 4c 10
55Notung ForgedE1 5b 17
56Swansong Postlude
HVS 5a 7
57NibelheimVS 4c **602
58Right Hand RouteHS 4b 328
59Strawberry Dust
E2 5b 1
E2 5c 1
E2 5c  
62Tower Route
E3 5c 16
63Big Brother
E2 5c **68
64Big Brother DirectE3 5c *19
65Sweetheart Contract
E5 6a 1
66Strange Little Girl
E4 6a ***61
67The Angel's Aręte
E4 6a *4
68The Angel's Aręte (original)
E4 6a  
69Towering Angels
E2 5b 2
70Angelic Inferno
E4 6c  
71The Angel's EyeHVS 5b *369
72Blood Test
E2 5b  
73Banana Crunch
E2 5b 5
74Acid TestE3 5c **16
75Sold Out
E4 6a *3
76Special Offer
HVS 5a 5
77Final Reduction
E3 5c  
78Joe's RouteVS 4c *425
79Joe DirectHVS 5a 6
HVS 5a 1
HVS 5a  
HVS 5a  
VS 4c *104
HVS 5a 44
VS 5
E4 5c 2
89Men of GwentE1 5b *32
90Suicide is Dangerous
E3 5c *13
91Digitus Extractus
HVS 5a  
 Great Wall 
93Under a Raging Moon
E2 5c 2
94Northerners Can't Climb
E1 5b 1
95Compost Wall
S 2
96Gemmell's Groove
S 1
97Loads' Lids
VD 5
98Original RouteVD *235
99Too Clever by HalfE3 6a *3
100The Rising Sun
HVS 5a 8
101John's Route
HS 158
 The Central Bay 
103Crystal Tips
HVS 5b 18
104Paul's Wall
HVS 5a 51
105Spinal TapE3 5c/6a 4
106Grey Wall
VS 4c 124
107Espresso Bongo
E1 5b 6
108Corner Buttress Route 1
VD 480
109Corner Buttress Route 2
VD 356
110Corner Buttress Route 3
M 86
111The Problemsnone 5b 11
112Cement Groove
D 161
113Direct Route
VD 106
114Direct Route (Severe Finish)S 4a 20
115Pig Iron
E1 5b 67
116Black Wall Left
HVS 5a 52
117Black Wall
HVS 4c 149
118Andy's routeHS 4b 2
119Wye Knot
D *45
120Save me from TomorrowE2 5b 30
121Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)
HVS 5a 6
122Rudely InterruptedE2 6a 2
123Centre of the Bay RouteS 22
124Terry's Left Hand Finish
S 4a 24
125AnotherVS 4c 9
126Terry's Right-hand Finish
HS 74
127Terry's Twin
VS 4c 43
128Terry's Gone Crackers
VS 4c 37
129TeryakiHS 4b 2
130Ridge Bypass
M 16
131Ridge Route
M 36
 South Bay 
133Wildlife6c 5
134Microserf6c+ **31
135Valley Forge
E2 5c *49
136Yr HerwehlaE1 5b 46
137Fear Is the Key
HVS 5a 2
138TherapyE2 5c *40
139PsychoE3 5c 5
140Pulp Friction
E4 6a *1
141VapourWareE2 5c *5
142Feline FrolicsE3 5c 6
143When the Wind Blows
E3 5c 1
144Morning Glory6a+ 6
145Loan SharkE3 6a 15
146MeningectomyE6 6a/b **8
147Debt Recovery
E2 5c 4
148Bottle Buttress
VD 3c *366
149Bottle Out
E1 5b *20
150Bottle Buttress Direct
VS 4c 93
E3 5c 2
152PrangE1 5a 3
153Gotta lotta bottle
VS 4c 12
154Last Of The WineE3 6a 2
E4 5c 4
156Broken BottleE1 5b 26
157Childhood's End
E2 5c **41
158Clutching at Straws
E2 5c *9
159Age of Enlightenment
E1 5b *55
160Camp Freddies BoilVS 4c 1
161Central Rib Route IS 4a **1044
162Central Rib Route III
VD ***335
163Central Rib Route IIVS 5a *209
 Deceiver Buttress 
165John Bennett
E1 5b 2
166An Android's DreamE3 5c *3
167Do What You WantE5 6b **1
168Agent Orange
E2 5c 6
169Sleight of HandE1 5b *52
170Scaremonger6c+ **26
171Easier Said than Done7b **9
172The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver7a ***15
173Better Late than Never7a *8
174Stay Mellow6c+ *9
175Out-a-Sight7a+ **5
176'Yeeaaghhh!'7a 6
 Far South Bay 
178The Early Morning Traverse
VS 4
E2 5c 3
HVS 5b 8
181Themeninblack; the Soundtrack
E3 5c *2
182GretaHS 4b **298
183SentaHVS 5a 22
E3 5b **19
185ZeldaHS 4b ***1142
186Sweetest VictoryE2 5c 6
187Hunky Dore
E1 5a 13
188Waiting for Themeninblack
E4 6a 5
HVS 5a, 5a *227
190Gospel: According to ThemeninblackE4 6a 2
191LlamaE1 5b *13
192PumaHVS 5a **97
HVS 10
194CheetahHVS 5a **277
195Let Us PreyE1 5a **31
196The Ragged Edge
HVS 5a 23
 GO Wall 
198Never Say DieE2 5c *75
199Never SayE2 5b 8
200Never Say Never Again6c *98
201Eva Brawn7b+ *7
202JannockE4 5c 3
203Jannock DirectE4 6a/b 2
204BlitzkreigE4 6a *18
205Lion HeartE5 6a *8
206Der Führer
E3 5c *8
207Der Führer (direct start)E4 6a *8
208Kaiser Wall
E3 6a ***126
209Mein KampfE5 6b **9
210Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)7b *4
211Heil Hitler7a **128
212Heil Hitler! Pitch 17a *32
213Lurking Smear7a *86
214Lurking Sear7c+ *31
215Lurking Fear
E4 6a 2
216Stairway to Heaven
E2 5c **34
217King KongE1 5b ***484
E6 6c *1
219I'm Evil (Primeval direct)E6 6c ***1
220Vulture SquadronE3 6a ***22
221Big DongE3 5c *24
222Howling at the MoonE5 6a **8
223Interstellar Overdrive
E5 6b ***1
224Empire State ExperienceE4 5c 6
225Kangaroo WallE2 6a ***195
226Crocodile Tears
E4 6b 2
227Cat Gut
E4 * 
228Hyena CageE4 6a ***41
229Dog Eat DogE5 6a ***22
230The JackalE5 6a ***51
231FelineE5 6b ***11
232Endangered Species
E3 5c 7
233Natural Selection
E3 5c 1
234ZebrazoneE2 5b 17
235I Used to Be a Werewolf...
E3 5c 2
236Chase Darkness Away
E2 5b  
237Tony6c+ 5
238John7a 3
239SurrealistE1 5b **162
240FugaziE1 5c 7
241Beside MyselfE3 5c 4
E1 5b 5
243Come and Get It
E1 5c  
VS 4c 5
245Uriah Heap
E1 5b 1
VS 5a 1
247What's New Pussycat?
E5 6a  
248Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction
7c ***3
E4 6b 1
250Parasol for a Beautiful Day
A1 1
7c * 
252Big Bad Wolf
E6 6b **2
253Slinkin' Leopard
E3 6a * 
254Joe the Lion
E3 6a 7
255Joe the Lion (direct start)
E5 6b  
256The Isle of Dogs7a+ *23
257In Quarantine
E2 5c 1
258Fond Adieu
E4 6b *4
259Never Say GoodbyeE2 5c 121
E4 6b  
261Liquid LeatherE3 6a 12
262Surreal Thing7a+ 17
263Hell: Just for Leather
7b 7
264Power Games
E4 6b *4
265Captain BeakyE2 5c *9
266One Cockatoo
E3 6a 1
267The Real Macaw
E3 6a 1
268Blow the House Down
E5 6b * 
269The Perfumed GardenE1 5b 44
270Kama SutraHS 4a 23
271Blossom and Blood
E2 5b 1
272Face Transplant
E4 6a  
273Clank, Honk, Tweet
HVS 5a  
274The Umbrella GirdleE2 5c **13
275Zebra Crossing
E3 5c **1
276Burning Giraffe
HVS 5a *55
E5 6b  
E3 5c  
279Enter the Dragon
E4 6b  
280Animal Magic
E4 6a  
281Real to Reel Extension
E2 5c 1
282Flanders Field
E4 6a  
283King Louie
E2 5b  
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Sunny Wall 
285DaydreamHVS 4c 1
286Nightmare of Brown Sugar
E3 5c *36
287Nightmare of Brown TrousersE5 6a *1
288The Devil's TrousersE4 6a *5
289Lady Tata and the camels ballsE2 5b 1
290C.W.A. for the Mitchell BrothersE3 5b 2
291Delicious6a 24
292Hannah Madden's RainbowE2 5c *1
293Elementary Dear WatsonE1 5a 1
294Still Nice and Still Sleazy6a+ **282
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Basement Lift 
296Schrodinger's Cat, Earl6b *12
297Heisenberg's Uncertain Reach.6b+ *20
298Out of your tree
5c 121
299Dog Dave AfternoonE3 5c 1
300See It, Sort It!6b 8
6a 107
302Much Zebu Crudness6b **91
303A Parched LandscapeHVS 4b 5
304Let That Be A Lesson4c *95
 Woodcroft Quarry - Upper Lift 
306The Ice MirrorE3 5c **2
307Playing Hooky6a+ 6
308Forty Years Apiece4c 9
309Men Without HatsVS 4c 2
310Back on the GameVS 4c 17
311Passing The BuckVS 4c 2
E2 5b 6
313Industrial Disease
HVS 5a 7
314Tea for One6a+ 30
315Meeting on a Jet Plane6a 11
 Woodcroft Quarry -Gunshot Sector/Latin Quarter 
317Lord Haw HawE3 5c 3
318A Blast from the Past6c *103
319Gunshot Wound to the Head6c+ 136
320First Steps
E2 5b 2
321Don't Lower the Tone7a+ 38
322A Slender ThreadE3 6a *4
323Caveat Emptor6a 67
324Dog of the Month6a+ 75
325Henry Sucks5b 10
326Be Gentle4c 49
 Woodcroft Quarry - The Amphitheatre 
328Brexit Inbreds GrooveHVS 5a 2
329Moving On Up6a *198
330A Bit On The Side6a 74
331Slimming in the Rain4c 164
332Rippled and Toned7a 65
333The Fire Escape
E2 5b 19
334Lean Dark Hombre6c+ 44
335Two Mules for Sister Sara6b+ 38
336Bronco LayneHVS 5a 3
337Betty Boo
E2 5b 3
338Kebab Please;Make it GreasyE5 6a 1
339Ally Oops
E2 5b 7
340Raison d'Ętre
E3 5c 4
341Military Discount7b+ **4
342Cum Black JohnnyE3 5c 15
343Saudi air6b 122
344GeyerHVS 5a 8
345Razors EdgeHVS 5a 9
 Woodcroft Quarry -Not The Warehouse Wall 
347Rocking RobinHVS 5a 1
348Don't give a flying FridgeE2 5b 1
349First of ManyVS 4b 5
350Dooglie Ooglie6c 9
351Are they inviting6b 24
352The New Neighbour6a+ 8
353The Italian G6c 14
354The Boy Did Good6a+ 20
355My Friend GooHVS 4c 1
 Fly Wall 
357GadflyVS 4c 11
358PapillonE2 5b *173
359ButterflyVS 4c *608
360MothHS 4b *595
361Time Flies
E2 5b 4
362Flies Rise
HVS 5a *90
VS 4c 42
364PeasantVS 4b 7
365Bzzz SplatHVS 5a 8
366Fly or DieE3 5c 10
367SwatterHVS 5a *219
368Fly LogicE4 6b 11
369The SplitVS 5a *364
370Muchos ButchosE2 5b 3
371Split Flies
E3 6a *47
372EclipticE1 5b 105
373Mosquito Bite
E1 5b *82
374African Killer BeeVS 4c **315
375PhoenixHS 4b 236
376Dazed and Confused
HVS 5a *139
377A Fly In The EyeE3 5c *61
378FreedomVS 4c ***557
379Freedom Direct Left FinishHVS 5a 2
380Freedom DirectHVS 5b 46
381Swallow's NestVS 4c **499
382FlyawayE1 5a 10
383FlyteHVS 5b *30
384Fly Havoc
E3 5c 7
385FlyholeVS 4b,5a 84
386Balls Out
E2 5b *33
387Bulging Flies
E2 5c 61
388Fly The FlagE4 6a **6
389FlyoverE3 6a **31
390FlypastE3 5a,6a 6
391Strangled Fly
E3 6a 1
392La Folie
E4 6a ***22
E2 5c ***126
394WurlitzerE1 5c **198
395I FlyE4 6a 1
396Lord of the Flies
E2 5b *14
E4 5c **39
398DragonflyHVS 5a *182
399Jet StreamE3 5c *2
400ZipperE2 5b 7
401Little FlyE2 5b *9
402Big Fly
403Big Fly DirectE1 5a ***176
404IdealistE5 6a **1
405Flies AloftE4 6a/b ***4
406Jos'e and the FlyVS 5a 78
407That Nice RouteE1 5b 4
408The Height BelowE3 5b,5c 2
409End of the AffairE1 5b 3
410EndgameHVS 5a/b 5
VS 3
412Mr Blissful went to BristolE3 5b *1
413Rear AdmiralE2 5c 1
414The Man From Uncle
E2 5b *1

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