Wintour's Leap

Climbs 387 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
The gem of the Wye Valley. Superb limestone, outrageous overhangs, technical faces, cracks, flakes, nice views, you name it. Mainly multi-pitch routes to about 90 metres. Note that the classic GO Wall outing "King Kong" suffered a rock fall between the publication of the old guide book in 1997 and the new one in 2007, losing its then infamous awkward bulge. It is still climbable at much the same grade.

Access notes
** There are currently nesting restrictions in place, check the BMC access notes and please be aware of signs placed locally **

Take the A48 Gloucester Road through Chepstow over the new Wye Bridge. Turn left onto the B4228, through Tutshill, turning right at the mini roundabouts. After about a mile you'll reach the pub "The Rising Sun" in Woodcroft. On weekdays it might be possible to park near the pub itself, but do show due consideration. You can approach via Woodcroft Quarry, or take the Easy Way Down, approx 500 metres past The Rising Sun (access to the pull-off now denied by bollards). The least disruptive parking is to be had on the grassy patches by the side of the Lancaut road, just N of the village. Climbing is only permitted from the North Buttress upto and including Fly Wall. The landowner of North Wall NO LONGER permits climbers to exit via his garden, which currently means the final pitches of routes that require this can not be climbed. The BMC have constructed an abseil station on the Great Ledge (dual 50m ropes required). The landowner of GO Wall permits climbing all year round, but has requested that no exit is made across his land at the top from April to September inclusive. Abseil stations are installed so there should be no need to cross his land even outside these times. Importantly, maintain a low profile keep the noise down to avoid disturbing the village of Woodcroft.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Wye Valley supplement 2012 (2012), Wye Valley (2007)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTH WALL  
2 Avant GardeE2 5b  
3AndromedaE1 5b *61
4The Secret GardenE2 5b 1
5Script for a Jester's Tear6c+ 10
6Turmoil of a White Ocean6b+ *39
7Turmoil Of A White Ocean/Script for a Jesters Tear Combo6b+ *5
8Sweeter Than SugarE4 6a *13
9Agamemnon6c *31
10Electra6c+ 9
11AlluviumE1 5c 1
12AntediluvianE3 5c  
13White FeatherE3 5c **44
14One Time One NightE3 5c  
15Yesterday's DreamsE2 5c **154
16AchillesE3 5c 2
17The RingE1 5b *4
18The Angel's GirdleVS 5a ***105
19A Calm Sea and a Prosperous VoyageE3 6a *1
20Cross-ExaminationE3 6a ** 
21Event HorizonE2 5c 1
22VerdictE2 5c  
23CantassiumE2 5c 1
24GrykeHVS 5a 35
25Punch and JudyE2 5b *16
26Suspect DeviceHVS 4c 7
27Left Hand RouteHS 4b **463
28ExodusE2 5c **25
29Powers of PersuasionE2 5b 9
30TarnhelmHVS 5a 16
31Great North Wall RouteHVS 4c *22
32SimplexVS 4c *154
33First DegreeE4 6c  
34Entrance ExamE4 5c *22
35Priory Road7b+ 17
36Highway to the DangerzoneE4 6b 8
37We've got the Honeymoon BluesE4 6a 4
38ApologyE4 6a  
39Swansong PreludeE2 5b *78
40The Valley RoadHVS 5a 2
41RheingoldE1 5b 4
42Central RouteVS 4b 43
43RheinfahrtHVS 4c 15
44The TapHVS 4c *121
45Under a Blood Red SkyE1 5b 2
46ErdaE1 5a *32
47LifebloodE2 5c 1
48NotungE1 5a/5b ***238
49AqualungE3 5c 5
50SwansongE4 5c **39
51The Song Remains the SameE2 5b 17
52The Wrong TapHVS 5a *55
53BacchanalianHS 4b *91
54Finishing Under a Blood Red SkyHVS 4c 9
55Notung ForgedE1 5b 16
56Swansong PostludeHVS 5a 7
57NibelheimVS 4c **477
58Right Hand RouteHS 4b 272
59Strawberry DustE2 5b  
60ClaireE2 5c 1
61XenophobiaE2 5c  
62Tower RouteE3 5c 15
63Big BrotherE2 5c **63
64Big Brother DirectE3 5c *15
65Sweetheart ContractE5 6a 1
66Strange Little GirlE4 6a ***46
67The Angel's AręteE4 6a *2
68The Angel's Aręte (original)E4 6a  
69Towering AngelsE2 5b 2
70Angelic InfernoE4 6c  
71The Angel's EyeHVS 5b *302
72Blood TestE2 5b  
73Banana CrunchE2 5b 4
74Acid TestE3 5c **10
75Sold OutE4 6a * 
76Special OfferHVS 5a 4
77Final ReductionE3 5c  
78Joe's RouteVS 4c *341
79Joe DirectHVS 5a 4
80AdriftHVS 5a 1
81FranticHVS 5a  
82MysticHVS 5a  
83AnalyticVS  
84ScaroticHVS  
85PsychoticVS 4c *80
86CrypticHVS 5a 34
87NarcoticVS 2
88QuixoticE4 5c 1
89Men of GwentE1 5b *24
90Suicide is DangerousE3 5c *10
91Digitus ExtractusHVS 5a  
 GREAT WALL  
93Under a Raging MoonE2 5c 2
94Northerners Can't ClimbE1 5b 1
95Compost WallS 2
96Gemmell's GrooveS 1
97Loads' LidsVD 2
98Original RouteVD *203
99Too Clever by HalfE3 6a *3
100The Rising SunHVS 5a 6
101John's RouteHS 118
 THE CENTRAL BAY  
103Crystal TipsHVS 5b 16
104Paul's WallHVS 5a 47
105Spinal TapE3 5c/6a 4
106Grey WallVS 4c 106
107Espresso BongoE1 5b 5
108Corner Buttress Route 1VD 393
109Corner Buttress Route 2VD 290
110Corner Buttress Route 3M 72
111The Problemsnone 5b 10
112Cement GrooveD 128
113Direct RouteVD 90
114Direct Route (Severe Finish)S 4a 17
115Pig IronE1 5b 61
116Black Wall LeftHVS 5a 43
117Black WallHVS 4c 119
118Andy's routeHS 4b 1
119Wye KnotD *33
120Save me from TomorrowE2 5b 25
121Save me from Tomorrow (HVS finish)HVS 5a 3
122Rudely InterruptedE2 6a 1
123Centre of the Bay RouteS 21
124Terry's Left Hand FinishS 4a 20
125AnotherVS 4c 7
126Terry's Right-hand FinishHS 62
127Terry's TwinVS 4c 35
128Terry's Gone CrackersVS 4c 28
129TeryakiHS 4b 1
130Ridge BypassM 12
131Ridge RouteM 27
 SOUTH BAY  
133Wildlife6c 4
134Microserf6c+ **21
135Valley ForgeE2 5c *40
136Yr HerwehlaE1 5b 37
137Fear Is the KeyHVS 5a 2
138TherapyE2 5c *32
139PsychoE3 5c 3
140Pulp FrictionE4 6a *1
141VapourWareE2 5c *5
142Feline FrolicsE3 5c 6
143When the Wind BlowsE3 5c 1
144Morning Glory6a+ 6
145Loan SharkE3 6a 11
146MeningectomyE6 6a/b **2
147Debt RecoveryE2 5c 4
148Bottle ButtressVD 3c *279
149Bottle OutE1 5b *18
150Bottle Buttress DirectVS 4c 72
151CodaE3 5c 2
152PrangE1 5a 2
153Gotta lotta bottleVS 4c 10
154Last Of The WineE3 6a 2
155MeningitisE4 5c 4
156Broken BottleE1 5b 20
157Childhood's EndE2 5c **35
158Clutching at StrawsE2 5c *7
159Age of EnlightenmentE1 5b *44
160Camp Freddies BoilVS 4c 1
161Central Rib Route IS 4a **818
162Central Rib Route IIIVD ***258
163Central Rib Route IIVS 5a *175
 DECEIVER BUTTRESS  
165John BennettE1 5b 2
166Do What You WantE5 6b **1
167Agent OrangeE2 5c 6
168Sleight of HandE1 5b *43
169Scaremonger6c+ **24
170Easier Said than Done7b **9
171The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver7a ***13
172Better Late than Never7a *8
173Stay Mellow6c+ *9
174Out-a-Sight7a+ **5
175'Yeeaaghhh!'7a 6
 FAR SOUTH BAY  
177The Early Morning TraverseVS 3
178AnticipationE2 5c 3
179ArabesqueHVS 5b 5
180Themeninblack; the SoundtrackE3 5c *1
181GretaHS 4b **224
182SentaHVS 5a 19
183ThemeninblackE3 5b **17
184ZeldaHS 4b ***873
185Sweetest VictoryE2 5c 6
186Hunky DoreE1 5a 12
187Waiting for ThemeninblackE4 6a 4
188GuythaHVS 5a, 5a *174
189Gospel: According to ThemeninblackE4 6a 2
190LlamaE1 5b *11
191PumaHVS 5a **84
192CobraHVS 8
193CheetahHVS 5a **214
194Let Us PreyE1 5a **20
195The Ragged EdgeHVS 5a 18
 GO WALL  
197Never Say DieE2 5c *54
198Never SayE2 5b 5
199Never Say Never Again6c *81
200Eva Brawn7b+ *2
201JannockE4 5c 3
202Jannock DirectE4 6a/b 2
203BlitzkreigE4 6a *15
204Lion HeartE5 6a *5
205Der FührerE3 5c *6
206Der Führer (direct start)E4 6a *4
207Kaiser WallE3 6a ***99
208Mein KampfE5 6b **6
209Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)7b *2
210Heil Hitler7a **92
211Heil Hitler! Pitch 17a *16
212Lurking Smear7a *68
213Lurking Sear7c+ *28
214Lurking FearE4 6a 2
215Stairway to HeavenE2 5c **25
216King KongE1 5b ***332
217PrimevalE6 6c *1
218I'm Evil (Primeval direct)E6 6c ***1
219Vulture SquadronE3 6a ***20
220Big DongE3 5c *16
221Howling at the MoonE5 6a **3
222Interstellar OverdriveE5 6b ***1
223Empire State ExperienceE4 5c 5
224Kangaroo WallE2 6a ***132
225Crocodile TearsE4 6b 2
226Cat GutE4 * 
227Hyena CageE4 6a ***21
228Dog Eat DogE5 6a ***12
229The JackalE5 6a ***30
230FelineE5 6b ***6
231Endangered SpeciesE3 5c 5
232Natural SelectionE3 5c 1
233ZebrazoneE1 5b 7
234I Used to Be a Werewolf...E3 5c 1
235Chase Darkness AwayE2 5b  
236Tony6c+ 4
237John7a 2
238SurrealistE1 5b **120
239FugaziE1 5c 5
240Beside MyselfE3 5c 4
241IncubusE1 5b 5
242Come and Get ItE1 5c  
243UrizenVS 4c 4
244Uriah HeapE1 5b 1
245AhariaVS 5a 1
246What's New Pussycat?E5 6a  
247Dinosaur Heaven: Return from Extinction7c ***3
248ParasolE4 6b  
249Parasol for a Beautiful DayA1 1
250Monosculpture7c * 
251Big Bad WolfE6 6b **2
252Slinkin' LeopardE3 6a * 
253Joe the LionE3 6a 5
254Joe the Lion (direct start)E5 6b  
255The Isle of Dogs7a+ *16
256In QuarantineE2 5c 1
257Fond AdieuE4 6b *4
258Never Say GoodbyeE2 5c 91
259'Goodbye'E4 6b  
260Liquid LeatherE3 6a 9
261Surreal Thing7a+ 10
262Hell: Just for Leather7b 4
263Power GamesE4 6b *4
264Captain BeakyE2 5c *5
265One CockatooE3 6a 1
266The Real MacawE3 6a  
267Blow the House DownE5 6b * 
268The Perfumed GardenE1 5b 41
269Kama SutraHS 4a 19
270Blossom and BloodE2 5b 1
271Face TransplantE4 6a  
272Clank, Honk, TweetHVS 5a  
273The Umbrella GirdleE2 5c **10
274Zebra CrossingE3 5c **1
275Burning GiraffeHVS 5a *28
276PussytalkE5 6b  
277LowGOE3 5c  
278Enter the DragonE4 6b  
279Animal MagicE4 6a  
280Real to Reel ExtensionE2 5c 1
281Flanders FieldE4 6a  
282King LouieE2 5b  
 WOODCROFT QUARRY  
284DaydreamHVS 4c 1
285Nightmare of Brown SugarE3 5c *34
286Nightmare of Brown TrousersE5 6a *1
287The Devil's TrousersE4 6a *5
288Elementary Dear WatsonE1 5a 1
289Hannah Madden's RainbowE2 5c *1
290Still Nice and Sleazy6a+ **194
291Men Without HatsVS 4c 1
292Back on the GameVS 4c 16
293Passing The BuckVS 4c 1
294CasualtyE2 5b 4
295Industrial DiseaseHVS 5a 6
296Tea for One6a+ 19
297A Blast from the Past6c *79
298Gunshot Wound to the Head6c+ 95
299First StepsE2 5b 2
300Out of your tree5c 69
301See It, Sort It!6b 2
302Ankarana6a 69
303Much Zebu Crudness6b **51
304A Parched LandscapeHVS 4b 2
305Let That Be A Lesson4c *52
306Don't Lower the Tone7a+ 28
307A Slender ThreadE3 6a *4
308Caveat Emptor6a 46
309Dog of the Month6a+ 43
310Be Gentle4c 34
311Moving On Up6a *113
312A Bit On The Side6a 32
313C.W.A. for the Mitchell BrothersE3 5b 2
314Lady Tata and the camels ballsE2 5b 1
315Delicious6a 12
316Slimming in the Rain4c 113
317Rippled and Toned7a 46
318The Fire EscapeE2 5b 13
319Lean Dark Hombre6c+ 33
320Two Mules for Sister Sara6b+ 28
321Bronco LayneHVS 5a 3
322Betty BooE2 5b 2
323Ally OopsE2 5b 5
324Raison d'ĘtreE3 5c 3
325Cum Black JohnnyE3 5c 10
326Saudi air6b 80
327Razors EdgeHVS 5a 4
328GeyerHVS 5a 4
329Rocking RobinHVS 5a 1
330Don't give a flying FridgeE2 5b 1
331First of ManyVS 4b 3
332Dog Dave AfternoonE3 5c 1
333My Friend GooHVS 4c 1
 WAREHOUSE WALL  
335Dooglie Ooglie6c 5
336Are they inviting6b 8
337The Italian G6c 9
338The Boy Did Good6a+ 11
 FLY WALL  
340 GadflyVS 4c 8
341PapillonE2 5b *123
342ButterflyVS 4c *492
343MothHS 4b *463
344Time FliesE2 5b 3
345Flies RiseHVS 5a *62
346PoetVS 4c 35
347PeasantVS 4b 3
348Bzzz SplatHVS 5a 7
349Fly or DieE3 5c 6
350SwatterHVS 5a *175
351Fly LogicE4 6b 10
352The SplitVS 5a *294
353Muchos ButchosE2 5b 2
354Split FliesE3 6a *38
355EclipticE1 5b 80
356Mosquito BiteE1 5b *77
357African Killer BeeVS 4c **230
358PhoenixHS 4b 188
359Dazed and ConfusedHVS 5a *100
360A Fly In The EyeE3 5c *46
361FreedomVS 4c ***409
362Freedom DirectHVS 5b 34
363Swallow's NestVS 4c **383
364FlyawayE1 5a 8
365FlyteHVS 5b *25
366Fly HavocE3 5c 4
367FlyholeVS 4b,5a 74
368Balls OutE2 5b *29
369Bulging FliesE2 5c 51
370Fly The FlagE4 6a **3
371FlyoverE3 6a **26
372FlypastE3 5a,6a 5
373Strangled FlyE3 6a 1
374La FolieE4 6a ***17
375FireflyE2 5c ***96
376WurlitzerE1 5c **141
377I FlyE4 6a 1
378Lord of the FliesE2 5b *11
379GendarmerieE4 5c **31
380DragonflyHVS 5a *136
381Jet StreamE3 5c *2
382ZipperE2 5b 5
383Little FlyE2 5b *6
384Big FlyHVS 2
385Big Fly DirectE1 5a ***114
386IdealistE5 6a **1
387Flies AloftE4 6a/b ***4
388Jos'e and the FlyVS 5a 66
389 That Nice RouteE1 5b 4
390The Height BelowE3 5b,5c 1
391End of the AffairE1 5b 2
392EndgameHVS 5a/b 4
393An Android's DreamE3 5c *3
394ChameleonVS 2
395Mr Blissful went to BristolE3 5b *1
396Rear AdmiralE2 5c 1
397The Man From UncleE2 5b *1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer treforsouthwell

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Last week the GO Wall was out of bounds due to nesting restrictions, but this may change.
treforsouthwell - 09/May/15
The new rockfall mentioned below is the (collapsed) rib from the lower half of the first pitch of The Perfumed Garden, which probably cannot be climbed anymore at HVS 5a. For those wanting to do The Burning Giraffe, Kama Sutra is a somewhat reasonable replacement.
pheotleyr - 26/Jul/13
Lots of "new" rockfall has appeared at the base of Kama Sutra (on the way to the pedestal). Not sure if this is old news haven't been that way in years, but it looks recent. Be wary on and around Kama Sutra.
gb05 - 27/Jun/13
The easy way down has become trickier with the debris of 2 televisions that have been discarded over the cliff. Be careful of broken glass on the ledges.
BB1 - 27/Oct/12
That should read North Buttress not North Wall sorry.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
The land owner of North Wall no longer allows climbers to exit via his garden, the upper pitches of routes that require this are now out of bounds. BMC is looking to erect an abseil station here.
CurlyStevo - 28/May/12
There's a barn owl nesting in a small cave between the Perfumed Garden and Kama Sutra on GO wall at Wintours Leap. The cave is on the obvious ledge where the first pitches finish. Would recommend avoiding this area until nesting finished. There is also a Herring Gull nesting directly at the top of Kama Sutra that will likely get very angry if anyone gets too close.
Big Lee - 14/May/12
Info on new routes in Woodcroft Quarry can be found at http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Woodcroft-SC-May-11.pdf . Compiled by Gordon Jenkin.
James Rushforth - 03/Sep/11
A video of the crux of Zelda is at: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2007/12/wintours-leap.html
TobyA - 01/Jan/08
A substantial rock has fallen from the North Wall sometime in the last few weeks. A big orange patch of fresh rock is clearly visible from the approach path past the ruined building. And the very large rock at the foot of the cliff is a clue as well. Not sure which route it affects...maybe Left Hand Route.
mdwoolley - 22/Oct/07
I recently climbed at wintours and went up a route by mistake that looked like it had never been climbed before (right of angels girdle) pulled a massive chunk of rock (tv size) off nearly killing my belayer! be careful with loose rock
Dr Caterpillar - 16/Jul/07
enjoyed first trip there last weekend. a warning, when finishing up Bacchanalian, the guidebook states that the rock doesn't look up to much but is perfectly adequate. actually it's not. i'm pleased my leader didn't fall, as I pulled off a handhold seconding to fall out of the blue and gear would have been uncertain around that area too, just below the exposed slab section before topout.
Phil Lyon - 08/Dec/06
First time to Wintour's. Found the Wye valley guide book really difficult to locate some of the classic climbs (Central Rib etc). Found three top rope routes on Fly Wall more than satisfying (despite the mud and huge amounts of foliage). A great day out, fantistic view over the river, and some friendly advice giving locals.
Jo Finch - 12/Nov/06
The 'Easy way down' is pretty lethal after rain. Damp polished limestone and wet leaves make for a descent that is harder than some of the routes! The climbs themselves dry faster than the descent though.
Nick Smith - UKC - 24/Oct/06
Climbed here for many years, live locally. Personally speaking i think a lot of the lower grade routes on Fly Wall are undergraded but only because of being well polished. The location itself is stunning and never ceases to impress, no road noise to speak of and a couple of good pubs nearby. The great ledge on the North Wall is the spot to be in, late in the day, watch the sun set, listen to the wildlife, birds coming into roost. What a top bivvy spot, plenty have too judging by the old fire embers lying around. Lucky people getting to live in the house directly above, who very kindly let climbers exit on to their land, long may it continue. Warren.
wozzer - 19/May/05
I climb at wintours all the time, it's my local. I recently climbed Notung E1 5a/b the gear is very minimal. This was my first E1 and i have since done E2 5b in Hunts mans Leap. I am 15 and work at the warehouse climbing centre.
Steven Pickett - 16/May/05
recently climbed Guytha, good route but is the top really only h.v.s. Feels very run out to me. Probably just getting old and fat....... And is Freedom only 4c? My favourite routes on the crag are la folie and kangaroo wall. Has anyone done The jackel as I would like to fulfill an ambition of 10 years!!
robbie warke - 24/Aug/04
Re KK 1st Pitch. Getting in the grove is probable no harder than it was and quite safe with a good friend under the roof, Except you arrive at the polished jams already knackered rather than having a rest on the erestwhile blocks. So by the time you reach the moves right under the next roof....!
Del Owen - 28/Jul/04
Went climbing with a mate at wintours laep great climbing great day! ROCK ON!!
guy - 15/Jan/04
A quick note on access out of the North Wall... had a great climb there on Sunday (Nibelhiem) and a pleasant chat with the gentleman who owns the house at the top of the crag. He commented that he's recently put signs up at the top-out point directing climbers to walk around the edge of his garden and asked us if they were noticeable - they are and for any one visiting Wintours who's not familiar with the layout, please follow the signs round the edge of the garden - he's a great guy for letting people to exit this way and the least we can do is minimise the impact by sticking to the edge of his lawn
JMB - 20/Oct/03
Please note that the first two pegs on Big Fly Direct have disappeared, together with a substancial amount of rock around them. The route is now less enjoyable and far more serious but probably still only warrants 5a. Whether it deserves E2 or not is questionable (In my opinion probably not. E2 5a is an odd grade). Judging from the fact that there were several pieces of gear left in the route and a couple of large blocks beneath it,I would hazard a guess that someone may have had an epic.
Al Randall - 18/Aug/03