Gwynedd > Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - Winter >
 
The Screen** IV 4

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[The Screen, 3 kb]65m, 2 pitches. Located half way between the Devils Kitchen and South Gully.

Ticklists: North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Photo: The Screen © MD
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

I lead the first pitch. Was super steep, probably vertical, and though only about 6 - 8m it was super hard work with some less than ideal technique meaning one or two longer than desired lock offs were used. Definitely a full on IV 4 as it was hacked out at all. Belayed in the Ice Cave as it was too cool not to despite what John thought. John took the second pitch trending left out of the Cave taking the gully up to the left and taking a short step as steep as the starting section. Also managed to get his peg from his previous ascent with Haydn in January.
MPSBunny - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/13 with John Brannock

Second pitch.
Brannock - AltLd - 07/Apr/13

timofy - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/13

thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Stuart Reeves

Tom led as one pitch
stuaart - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with Thomas Smith

Great little route, felt much harder than the kitchen. Tech 5 in its current nick?
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Thomas Reid

Found the first pitch up to the cave technically very hard getting round chandeliered ice. More than 4 anyway. Top pitch was easy 3, maybe a steep 2 up the groove on the left.
NathanP - AltLd - 04/Apr/13

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13 with stuart lade

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Apr/13

kdalzell - 2nd - 01/Apr/13 with Liam Fleming

jon clayton - Lead - 01/Apr/13 with Dave Hanham

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/13

adie84 - 31/Mar/13 with Ben Wolstenholme

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/13

First pitch to big ledge then bailed due to large amount of running water
climber34neil - 31/Mar/13

Chris Hind - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Bry

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 31/Mar/13 with Rob Adie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/13

steve.warrington - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Dave Simpson, Nik Goile

SPD224 - AltLd - 30/Mar/13 with Martin Smith

Excellent climb. Ice was rock solid on the steep section though, made for a couple of floundering moves.
Lxaddison - 2nd - 30/Mar/13 with Paul Addison

In good nick. We both found it quite demanding at the grade.
thomb - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Jess

Andy_B39 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Ben Rigby

Brilliant lead of the crux pitch by Kin Choi using blunt tools!
Pete_Frost - AltLd - 29/Mar/13 with Kin Choi

Blunt picks really don't help. Otherwise, it should've been a clean ascent. Quite hard ice. Dry but chopped up on the steepest section. Bit steep for a grade 4.
Skinny Kin - AltLd dog - 29/Mar/13 with Pete Frost

Sickening hot aches.. grr..
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/13 with jo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/13

With Haydn, good route, ice bit soft but ok, one big pitch.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jan/13

Excellent fun, the ice was a little wet so don't expect it to be there too much longer. Lead climber, Rob, did as one long pitch.
Puma - 2nd - 25/Jan/13 with Rob Stone

Left hand variant in one 50m pitch belaying in exit gully.
lithos - Lead - 25/Jan/13 with Puma

Belayed below the crux, Used too many ice screws in the first section. Fantastic climb.
Double Knee Bar - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/13 with Blanchie

AB1965 - AltLd - 24/Jan/13 with Bob Johnson

first ice climb . great day out.
tim000 - 2nd - 23/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jan/13

Gerallt Owain - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/13 with Dan Jones

TCarrick - 22/Jan/13

awesome! left hand finish
Webster - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/13

TomMorgan - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/13 with Ben Rigby

Pretty wet in places, but generally in good nick. Left hand finish as the curtain to the right still looks a little hollow. Lead both pitches.
ianstevens - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/13

Hidden - 21/Jan/13

benrigby - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/13

Quite wet, but in pretty good condition - Nick took the first pitch and I took the second. The right hand route for the second pitch was not so well formed, and very wet, so I went for the left hand variation.
SJS - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/13 with Nick

I took the first pitch, (which went well after much faffing with crampons) and belayed under a waterfall (don't do this - it's cold and wet). Steve led the left-hand variation to the top
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/13 with Steve Shenton

Very nice climb in fairly good nick, but hard in the grade compared with Scottish IV 4 on ice. Fortunately (perhaps ?) it was quite hooked out although not completely on the crux, which made it easier. We took the left hand variation at the top as the ice curtain wasn't very well formed yet.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Jan/13 with Rob

Hidden - Jan/11

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - Jan/11 with tommy

Pay attention - Lead - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/10 with John Cooke

Lenny - Lead rpt - 27/Dec/10 with John

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Dec/10

Led in one pitch.
tatz45 - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/10 with Jamie Tattersall

Chubbard - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/10 with C Godfrey

sam820 - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/10 with Matt Sutton

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Dec/10

Tom Hutton - 2nd - 25/Dec/10 with Rufus

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Dec/10

Ashley Hold - 2nd O/S - 25/Dec/10 with Matthew Wheadon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/10

Certainly steeper than it looked in the first pitch. Great route though.
AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/10 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Dec/10

Decptively steep.
Rampikino - Lead - 23/Dec/10 with Cat

Stuart Wildman - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/10

Stuart led pitch 1, I led top pitch
mickJ - Lead - 22/Dec/10 with Stuart Wildman

jparry75 - AltLd - 19/Dec/10 with m.evans

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Dec/10

tall paul - 2nd - 09/Dec/10 with aiden

ollyroberts - 2nd O/S - 09/Dec/10 with Ben

joese7en - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/10

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/10 with Andy Barker

A bit brittle in places but made easier through a mulitude of previous ascents.
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/10 with Glyn Hudson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/10

lukewilliams - Lead - 08/Dec/10

samrad - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/10 with james G

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Dec/10

With G and Rob, torch lit ascent. Seperate trip to the kitchen from climbing earlier in the day.
mynyddresident - AltLd rpt - 07/Dec/10 with geraint

Lead 2nd pitch: A great, if short route. Still packs a punch.
farmus21 - AltLd - 07/Dec/10 with Sam Radcliffe

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 07/Dec/10 with Gareth E

Hidden - Lead - 07/Dec/10

Night time ascent
Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/10 with Nick, Geriant

P1 this time.
groovy_nut - AltLd rpt - 06/Dec/10 with Matt K

Lead the first pitch, steep but good ice. The second pitch was not fully formed so topped out via the little gully to the left (Todd's lead on thin ice and fresh powder...)
R_W_M - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Todd

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Steve Grove

Ace! III with sections of IV I thought...
ruaidh - AltLd - 05/Dec/10 with Jonah

chadrads - 2nd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with andy chapman

1st route of this winter :- )
Ian Andrews - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Wayne Gordon, Pete Williams

tim_mcd - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with cmsg

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Dec/10

inuklm - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Jonathon Hazel

Went up the v-groove for P2 which was quite thin and unconsolidated in places
Clay C - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/10 with James C

Not fully formed and very hacked out
stuart34 - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Stuart Buchan

TDembrey - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Rob

Tim did first pitch. Steep and shattering. Second pitch not in great shape, so I shot up the gulley.
cmsg - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Tim McDonald

Led P1
andysroom - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10

Retreated after first pitch
Messners Yeti - Lead dnf - 03/Dec/10 with Tom Mansfield

Steep but good ice for the first pitch, brittle and thin in the grove on the second pitch
AB1965 - Lead - 01/Dec/10 with Bob Johnson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Dec/10

bob johnson - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/10 with Al Borrett

tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - Dec/10 with phillip belcher

Tim Sparrow - Solo - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Dec/10

kenneM - AltLd O/S - Dec/10 with Carl Davies

Hidden - AltLd - Nov/10

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/10

Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/10 with JB

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/10

amazing, finished as it went dark Ben's first lce lead on 1st pitch. I led 2nd pitch, amazing fun :)
Jillybean - AltLd - 14/Jan/10 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/10

frost - Solo O/S - 13/Jan/10

Led 2nd pitch and went up V groove this time. First pitch was just slush, melting when we were climbing too.
sleavesley - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/10 with Karl

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/10

First team on it that day. Was surprised to see it dripping quite a lot. Steep central section getting a lot of drips - one reason not to hang around. Belayed on the open face after traversing left from the cave. Seconded pitch 2.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10 with Tom

LardClimber - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/10 with Dave Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/10

Led first steep pitch to icicle cave
cmtoombs - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10

bob johnson - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10 with Al Borrett, Rich Ball

lead first pitch
spidey - AltLd - 10/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jan/10

juza - Lead - 10/Jan/10 with Andy D

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10

I led the esier left variant of the second pitch. Fantastic.
Steven Andrews - AltLd - 09/Jan/10 with Lucas

Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10 with Gareth Mottram

Bex_M - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with Duncan Dunbar

wilkie14c - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/10 with Mark Wilson, Dave Clarke

groovy_nut - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/10 with Patrick

rob k - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/10 with H Griffin

Mark Wilson23 - 2nd - 08/Jan/10 with Dave Clarke, Paul blanchard

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jan/10

Led 2nd pitch. Steve belayed after the (unexpected) crux
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/10 with Steve B, Andy F

jcurley - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/10 with Mike Buddle

good nick, but more top end III than IV (or so i'm told)
Dom Whillans - 06/Jan/10 with a.crook

wanted to do for some time, great fun and fairly easy tbh. doen in on huge run out. probably best done this way for full enjoyment
A Crook - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/10 with Dom Stockton

Liam FLeming - 06/Jan/10 with john bunney

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jan/10

willson - 2nd - 05/Jan/10 with Wills

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/10

Rhys Jones - 05/Jan/10 with bonita

Lead through did route in one pitch.
Bram - Lead - 05/Jan/10

Great route, better conditions.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/10 with Grayham Stephenson

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jan/10

tricky traverse at the top due to lack of ice. Nice Lead Dave!
thecurlyone - 2nd O/S - 03/Jan/10 with Dave Smith

Lenny - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/10 with James W.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/10

Excellent ice, led 2nd pitch.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/10 with Alex Rafferty

Sweet
alexrafferty1986 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/10 with Zoomer

malc - 2nd - 01/Jan/10 with Paul S

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/10

Hidden - Jan/10

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - Jan/10

Tom M Williams - AltLd - Jan/10

r_o_b_h2 - Lead - Jan/10 with steve tree

BenTiffin - Lead - Jan/10 with Andy Bissell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

tim20 - 2010

stemill - 2nd - 23/Dec/09 with Mark, Graham

Was first on this with Nick, Led the whole thing. Did the harder right hand side, not the V groove :-)
sleavesley - Lead O/S - 23/Dec/09 with Nick Scott

timjones - Lead - 23/Dec/09 with Andy McQue

Diggler - Lead rpt - 23/Dec/09 with stemill, Calder

Calder - 2nd - 23/Dec/09 with Mark, Ste

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Dec/09

Very enjoyable, led P1
LakesWinter - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/09 with Angus

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/09 with John Nesbitt

Diggler - 2nd - 11/Feb/09 with Paul V

paul.valentine - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/09 with Mark Dempsey

Let Hamish have the honours, joys of being local can do this one before lectures
JDSwain - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/09 with Hamish Dunn

HamishD - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/09 with John Swain

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/09

feilx - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Floris & Mike

Great fun. Led all of the route - belayed once on the ramp before the short top section.
AJM - Lead - 07/Feb/09 with Alec Corio

nickcanute - AltLd - 07/Feb/09 with tim parkinson

devilman - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09

Thought we were on 'The Ramp' 11/111, imagine our surprise when we realised we were on 'The Screen' IV.
Martyn - AltLd - 06/Feb/09 with Damien Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Jan/09

vincentvega - Lead - 10/Jan/09 with danny robb

left pillar
centurion05 - Lead O/S - 10/Jan/09 with ben wood

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/09

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jan/09

2nd Pitch
barni - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/09 with Northern

stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/09 with Rob Bryniarski

Great route in good conditions. Led P1 including steep column, 'Fat' Phil led P2.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/09

mikelaing - 2nd - Jan/09 with Ian Whitehead

Jillybean - 2nd - Jan/09 with Matt

rob1 - AltLd - Jan/09 with Tom Martin

Misha took 1st pitch up steep fluted columns. Good hooks but awkward footwork.
philhilo - AltLd rpt - Jan/09 with misha

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/07

Lovely two pitches of good steep ice
nicholas Barrowclough - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/06

richw2k2 - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/06

A lucky find, the climb was in perfect condition!
al99 - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with Joe Spoor

Ken took main pitch, tricky traverse in from right Trevor second.
philhilo - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/06 with ken tranter, Trevor Box

Lead 2nd easier pitch 1st was steep & fluted IV 4/4.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/05 with Diccon Proctor

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/01

Hidden - Lead - Jan/97

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/96 with mark ryan

phardman - Solo - 29/Dec/96

mark-abz - Lead - Feb/91 with Andy W

ChrisJD - Solo - 1986

Nick Biven - 2nd - Jan/85 with Karl Strange

sacdenouilles - Lead - Mar/84

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Voting
Total votes cast 127
hard V0 of 47
V0 of 47
easy V3 of 47
hard IV5 of 47
IV31 of 47
easy IV8 of 47
hard III0 of 47
III0 of 47
easy III0 of 47
hard 50 of 39
50 of 39
easy 53 of 39
hard 47 of 39
427 of 39
easy 42 of 39
hard 30 of 39
30 of 39
easy 30 of 39
3 Stars26 of 41
2 Stars14 of 41
1 Star1 of 41
0 Stars0 of 41
Bag of .....0 of 41
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 215 (3.3%)
Lead64 of 215 (29.8%)
Followed42 of 215 (19.5%)
Alt Leads91 of 215 (42.3%)
Unknown11 of 215 (5.1%)

'Climbed'90 of 215 (41.9%)
clean O/S116 of 215 (54.0%)
clean rpt7 of 215 (3.3%)
dogged1 of 215 (0.5%)
dnf1 of 215 (0.5%)