UKC Logbook - 'Ace of Diamonds'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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30m. Start up a groove below and right of two golden triangular walls about 20m left of Penmaen Pillar. Climb the groove with difficulty at the initial bulge. Layback the next section and move up left into a black recess. Climb the left angle of the recess until a jug out right can be reached. Move up and left to exit, then follow ramps on the right edge of the buttress to the lower-off.

FA. C.Calow 08/Sep/2015.

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User	Date		Notes
ClimbyMcClimbface	31 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Absolutely bloody brilliant climbing! Had several moves in it that would make it a classic, all strung together in one pitch! The rope drag only really had an impact (small one) on the way down. Beautiful climbing, solid rock the whole way. We did it when there was a bit of seepage on the slab and the crack, but it was avoidable with some dainty step throughs. Beauty, deserves 3 stars I reckon!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Absolutely bloody brilliant climbing! Had several moves in it that would make it a classic, all strung together in one pitch! The rope drag only really had an impact (small one) on the way down. Beautiful climbing, solid rock the whole way. We did it when there was a bit of seepage on the slab and the crack, but it was avoidable with some dainty step throughs. Beauty, deserves 3 stars I reckon!