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These details were last updated on 17/Mar/2009

Sanctuary Wall

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 28 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
"Some of the most spectacular and nerve-racking climbing in Devon", which is saying something.

Sanctuary wall seems to have fallen from fashion of late after a heavy wave of development in the 80s and 90s. A couple of the harder routes are, admittedly, somewhat loose and scary horror shows however many are solid and reasonably protected. The lower grade offerings in particular are still regularly travelled and offer some of the best climbing in the most superb setting in the area.

Compact, hard, sheltered limestone. Generally overhanging, multi-pitch routes up to 180ft. Beware ageing in-situ gear - back up pegs if possible. And then have a go at wild routes like Sacrosanct (HVS 5a - possibly one of the best routes at the grade in Devon?), Flaming Drambuie (E5 6b) and Call of Nature (E6 6b).

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Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1MadnessE5 5c,5c, ***3
2Brittle Road to FreedomXS 5c  
3Balls of a ChildE7 6b  
4Kill Your IdolE6 6b *** 
5Call of the WildE6 6b ***1
6Call of NatureE6 6b *** 
7WildebeestE6 6b ** 
8SupermousseE6 6b ** 
9CinqtusHVS 5b,4a,  
10SacrosanctHVS 5a **34
11Flaming DrambuieE5 6b *** 
12CorvoisierE6 6b/c ** 
13Free the SpiritE6 6a ***2
14Caribbean BlueE6 6a ***5
 Climb nameGradex
15The SprinterE5 5c  
16MonsoonE6 6a  
17Call to ArmsE4 5c, 5c ***13
18Amoebic PlungeE6 6b  
19Up in ArmsE4 6b  
20Incubus DirectE3 5c,5a 2
21False GodsE4 6a **8
22Gus HoneybunE5 6b ** 
23Dead RabbitE7 6b  
24MorpheusE2 5b  
25Opium EaterE4 5c  
26IncubusHVS ***30
27One Step BeyondE4 5c  
28Scantagus †HVS 5a 1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
DO NOT PARK in the DIY centre in Babbacombe. There are now number-plate recognition cameras up and heavy (although technically unenforcable) fines involved. Instead park considerately in Perinville road opposite, keeping as low a profile as you can, then head back and along the path next to the DIY centre as per the guide.

Access to Sanctuary Wall can be gained from either Anstey's Cove or Long Quarry Point via the Long Traverse (around 2hours either side of low tide) or abseil from a spike on the RH side of the Quarry Pinnacle of LQP.

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