Sanctuary Wall

Climbs 28 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
"Some of the most spectacular and nerve-racking climbing in Devon", which is saying something.

Sanctuary wall seems to have fallen from fashion of late after a heavy wave of development in the 80s and 90s. A couple of the harder routes are, admittedly, somewhat loose and scary horror shows however many are solid and reasonably protected. The lower grade offerings in particular are still regularly travelled and offer some of the best climbing in the most superb setting in the area.

Compact, hard, sheltered limestone. Generally overhanging, multi-pitch routes up to 180ft. Beware ageing in-situ gear - back up pegs if possible. And then have a go at wild routes like Sacrosanct (HVS 5a - possibly one of the best routes at the grade in Devon?), Flaming Drambuie (E5 6b) and Call of Nature (E6 6b).

Access notes
DO NOT PARK in the DIY centre in Babbacombe. There are now number-plate recognition cameras up and heavy (although technically unenforcable) fines involved. Instead park considerately in Perinville road opposite, keeping as low a profile as you can, then head back and along the path next to the DIY centre as per the guide.

Access to Sanctuary Wall can be gained from either Anstey's Cove or Long Quarry Point via the Long Traverse (around 2hours either side of low tide) or abseil from a spike on the RH side of the Quarry Pinnacle of LQP.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1MadnessE5 5c,5c, ***
2Brittle Road to FreedomXS 5c
3Balls of a ChildE7 6b
4Kill Your IdolE6 6b ***
5Call of the WildE6 6b ***
6Call of NatureE6 6b ***
7WildebeestE6 6b **
8SupermousseE6 6b **
9CinqtusHVS 5b,4a,
10SacrosanctHVS 5a **
11Flaming DrambuieE5 6b ***
12CorvoisierE6 6b/c **
13Free the SpiritE6 6a ***
14Caribbean BlueE6 6a ***
15The SprinterE5 5c
16MonsoonE6 6a
17Call to ArmsE4 5c, 5c ***
18Amoebic PlungeE6 6b
19Up in ArmsE4 6b
20Incubus DirectE3 5c,5a
21False GodsE4 6a **
22Gus HoneybunE5 6b **
23Dead RabbitE7 6b
24MorpheusE2 5b
25Opium EaterE4 5c
26IncubusHVS ***
27One Step BeyondE4 5c
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK 
29The Long Traverse4c S1 **
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