4 pitches. The Central Pillar of Frenzy’ is an easily accessable 4 pitch E1/2 with an abseil descent which may leave you hungry for more. Out of the sun.

Jim Bridwell, Roger Breedlove, 1973

dprctr 08/Oct AltLd O/S

Lead P1,3 and 5. Pitch 3 after the roof was terrifying. 10 metres of walking a number 4 cam. ..

with Victor
druss 12/Jun 2nd dog

Feet were killing me after 2 weeks of cracks. Left leading up to Peter. Had the not so pleasure of climbing/dogging P2 with bag and haul rope after forgetting to attach haul rope to leader. Lesson learnt! :) Brilliant climb only but very stiff jump up from 5.8.

poeter210 12/Jun Lead G/U
druss 09/Jun AltLd dnf

Retreated after P2 due to time pressure and not feeling confident.

Splitter-philiac ?/Jun AltLd O/S

Honnold down climbed through us!

eduardo 12/May AltLd O/S

I led even pitches. Great groute, sustained at 5.8 - 5.9 for large sections.

with Ian W
chris smith ?/Apr AltLd O/S

Great route, first pitch is just a brute offwidth and a real struggle. Second pitch is an awesome finer locking crack very sustained but so well protected! Abd off here 1 60m an will get you to the ground.

1poundSOCKS 03/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lindy led P1, P3 and P5, I led P2 and P4. Did this the day after Nutcracker. A definite step up in difficulty, and just as good (if not better). Leading the finger crack on P2 is maybe the best pitch I have ever done. The supposed 5.7 roof was the crux of the whole route for me.

Ahab ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
mrteale 30/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with alook
mrteale 30/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with alook
alooker 30/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Andy Fielding 11/Jun/14 AltLd

First two pitches before we realised one single 60m rope wasn't enough to escape from the top.

with Antoine Bard
Noodles 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Led the first three pitches before rapping due to the late start and darkness. P1 was weird

with Jake Wood
Duncan Campbell 29/Sep/13 2nd

Nearly fell asleep queueing for it so seconded it, brilliant climbing! Although on paper not the crux, pitch 3's wide crack felt like the hardest part for me!

Ollie B 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with D.Campbell, T.Ripley
Hidden 12/Sep/13 2nd
Neil Adams 06/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Great climbing and (more importantly!) in the shade

with Ross B
Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
MonkeyDawson ?/May/13 Lead
with Simon Smith
jcw ??/2013 -
khawk 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with jack
PeteH 05/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 28/Sep/12 AltLd dog

Superb climb. Misread crux of P1 and jammed myself into chimney. Eventually escaped by simple but effective expedient of falling off, hanging upside down and hyperventilating. Frustrating, as fairly straightforward once I identified correct approach. Excuse: exhausted after two fantastic weeks in the Valley. Led Ps 1,3,5.

with Tim
cat22 27/Sep/12 2nd O/S


with Mike
Adam Booth 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

And matty r

Hidden 10/Sep/12 2nd
Sir Stefan 15/Oct/11 AltLd
with Enmore Lin
farmus21 02/Oct/11 AltLd
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 02/Oct/11 AltLd
with james G
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 12/Sep/11 AltLd
K1 08/Sep/11 AltLd
with Peter Buchholz, Andy McCarter
Andy McCarter 08/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Fell once leading the first pitch.

with Pete, K1
DavidR 16/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Did the route in 6 hours. Abseiled down in 1 hour 20 mins. I led pitches 1, 3 and 5. Fell off at the roof of pitch 3...hard! The 'sustained wide section' of pitch 3 was indeed challenging. Not desperately hard, but didn't have much gear so had to move cam(s) with me.

sparkass 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Quite disappointed with this - not very good!

stuart34 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P 2, 4

with Adam Winslow
mshorter ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with erika
Graeme Gilchrist 23/Sep/10 AltLd dog
with benedict, sina
Birdo 15/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul McStumpy
juhah 13/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Mikko Vartiainen
Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd
innes ?/May/10 Lead
with Ruth
Julesthe1st 02/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike
simon kimber ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hanski ?/Oct/09 2nd
K1 23/Sep/09 AltLd
with Kevin Davey
tuukka 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led 1,2 & 3

with Maija
AdrianP 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

5 great pitches, short approach

with Olli
hlegge 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

9/10 faultless climbing

tcn_2002 19/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 04/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
alex_arthur 01/Aug/09 AltLd

First three pitches only. Led 1 and 2 running them together with a 70m

with Seth and Shaun
Stig 30/May/09 2nd dnf

Bailed after 2 pitches, got down just as the storm hit. First pitch is nails.

with Colin
Billg 29/May/09 AltLd

Had to kick steps up a cone of snow and cross a bergshrund to get onto the route !!!

with Bob Brewer
johno072 ??/2009 AltLd
Pythonist 24/Oct/08 2nd O/S

An interesting introduction to the valley, for a non-crack-climber!

with Fatty & Alan
Dougie Harvey 09/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with James Wheater, Finlay Wild
Hidden ?/Oct/08 -
Nicos 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
richiebongo ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

first 5 pitches

with Nick Smith
markalmack ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
josephwilliams ?/Oct/07 -
Shaw Brown 17/Sep/07 Lead

Fantastic route other than the first pitch being a bit polished now. It is now normal to do 5 pitches and rap down the route to the left ( no rope problems + more climbing)

with David Horgan
DavidEvans 26/Apr/07 AltLd

3 hours 550 feet. Led 1,3,5

with Jules Vulliamy
PenJD 12/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 AltLd
al99 ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas
Hidden 25/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
chrishedgehog 15/May/06 Lead O/S

Steve didn't fancy his leads much so I think I did 1,2,4 and 5. Tremendous, burly route I thought. Keeps coming!

with S. Mead
datoon 01/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with RT
Hidden 14/Sep/04 AltLd
timreynolds 08/Sep/04 Lead dnf

First pitch only

with Martin Hoather
timbanton ?/Sep/04 -
steveP 01/Jul/04 Lead O/S

Amazing route. Got ropes caught on abseil in descent and had nightmare escape!

with Chris Wynn
shark ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2003 -
lost.arrow 11/Jun/02 AltLd
with Dave Wood
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
dan gibson ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with anthony prior, helen gibson
DafSWMC ?/May/99 Lead O/S

1st pitch only.

with Brit
Hidden ??/1999 2nd
WB ?/May/97 Lead O/S

first 5/6 pitches only

with Nicola
Hidden 04/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/95 AltLd O/S
Nick Rundall ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Roget 14/Sep/94 AltLd O/S

1st 5 pitches only

with baccy
neilh ?/Jun/94 Lead
with sara hyde
Rob Davies 19/Sep/92 AltLd dnf

P1 & P2 only - very late afternoon start

OMSKB ?/Jul/92 -
with Pete Aldwinkle, Richard Winfield
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Nigel Coe ?/Aug/86 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
keefe 11/Aug/85 -
Mystery Toad ??/1985 AltLd O/S

Central Pillar of Frenzy is one my favorite moderate Valley routes. 5 pitches of mostly hand/fist crack; nearly vertical exposure, highly recommended.

Eugetj ?/Sep/81 AltLd
Mark Kemball 15/Jul/81 AltLd
with Russ Eyles
Ken Taylor 15/Sep/79 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden ?/Oct/78 AltLd
petemeads ?/Oct/75 AltLd

A good introduction to the local crack climbing.

with Mick Brady
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DBoothroyd, druss, oliverk, Hidden, misterb, madeleine, HIGHTOWER, Hidden, Hidden
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set