Central Pillar of Frenzy*** 5.9
[Last pitch, in the shade thankfully., 2 kb]4 pitches. The Central Pillar of Frenzy’ is an easily accessable 4 pitch E1/2 with an abseil descent which may leave you hungry for more. Out of the sun.
Jim Bridwell, Roger Breedlove, 1973

Photo: Last pitch, in the shade thankfully. © walts4
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This climb is in 105 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Feet were killing me after 2 weeks of cracks. Left leading up to Peter. Had the not so pleasure of climbing/dogging P2 with bag and haul rope after forgetting to attach haul rope to leader. Lesson learnt! :) Brilliant climb only but very stiff jump up from 5.8.
druss - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/15 with Peter Ocampo

poeter210 - Lead G/U - 12/Jun/15 with adrian voss

Retreated after P2 due to time pressure and not feeling confident.
druss - AltLd dnf - 09/Jun/15 with Peter Ocampo

Honnold down climbed through us!
Splitter-philiac - AltLd O/S - Jun/15

I led even pitches. Great groute, sustained at 5.8 - 5.9 for large sections.
eduardo - AltLd O/S - 12/May/15 with Ian W

Great route, first pitch is just a brute offwidth and a real struggle. Second pitch is an awesome finer locking crack very sustained but so well protected! Abd off here 1 60m an will get you to the ground.
chris smith - AltLd O/S - Apr/15

Lindy led P1, P3 and P5, I led P2 and P4. Did this the day after Nutcracker. A definite step up in difficulty, and just as good (if not better). Leading the finger crack on P2 is maybe the best pitch I have ever done. The supposed 5.7 roof was the crux of the whole route for me.
1poundSOCKS - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/14

Ahab - Lead O/S - Oct/14

mrteale - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/14 with alook

mrteale - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/14 with alook

alooker - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/14 with Ed

First two pitches before we realised one single 60m rope wasn't enough to escape from the top.
Andy Fielding - AltLd - 11/Jun/14 with Antoine Bard

Led the first three pitches before rapping due to the late start and darkness. P1 was weird
Noodles - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Jake Wood

Nearly fell asleep queueing for it so seconded it, brilliant climbing! Although on paper not the crux, pitch 3's wide crack felt like the hardest part for me!
Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 29/Sep/13 with Ollie B, Bubbles

Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with D.Campbell, T.Ripley

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/13

Great climbing and (more importantly!) in the shade
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/13 with Ross B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13

MonkeyDawson - Lead - May/13 with Simon Smith

jcw - 2013

khawk - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12 with jack

PeteH - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/12 with Naomi Hart

Superb climb. Misread crux of P1 and jammed myself into chimney. Eventually escaped by simple but effective expedient of falling off, hanging upside down and hyperventilating. Frustrating, as fairly straightforward once I identified correct approach. Excuse: exhausted after two fantastic weeks in the Valley. Led Ps 1,3,5.
Andy Clarke - AltLd dog - 28/Sep/12 with Tim

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/12 with Mike

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Ed Booth

And matty r
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Adam Booth

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/12

Sir Stefan - AltLd - 15/Oct/11 with Enmore Lin

farmus21 - AltLd - 02/Oct/11 with Sam Radcliffe

samrad - AltLd - 02/Oct/11 with james G

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Sep/11

K1 - AltLd - 08/Sep/11 with Peter Buchholz, Andy McCarter

Fell once leading the first pitch.
Andy McCarter - AltLd dog - 08/Sep/11 with Pete, K1

Did the route in 6 hours. Abseiled down in 1 hour 20 mins. I led pitches 1, 3 and 5. Fell off at the roof of pitch 3...hard! The 'sustained wide section' of pitch 3 was indeed challenging. Not desperately hard, but didn't have much gear so had to move cam(s) with me.
DavidR - AltLd dog - 16/Jul/11 with Holly Adamthwaite

Quite disappointed with this - not very good!
sparkass - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Ry McHenry

P 2, 4
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Adam Winslow

mshorter - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with erika

Graeme Gilchrist - AltLd dog - 23/Sep/10 with benedict, sina

Birdo - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/10 with Paul McStumpy

juhah - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/10 with Mikko Vartiainen

Hidden - Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/10

innes - Lead - May/10 with Ruth

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/09 with Mike

simon kimber - Lead O/S - Oct/09 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - 2nd - Oct/09 with Simon Kimber

K1 - AltLd - 23/Sep/09 with Kevin Davey

Led 1,2 & 3
tuukka - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Maija

5 great pitches, short approach
AdrianP - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Olli

9/10 faultless climbing
hlegge - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Thomas Codrington

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 19/Sep/09 with Hamish Legge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/09

First three pitches only. Led 1 and 2 running them together with a 70m
alex_arthur - AltLd - 01/Aug/09 with Seth and Shaun

Bailed after 2 pitches, got down just as the storm hit. First pitch is nails.
Stig - 2nd dnf - 30/May/09 with Colin

Had to kick steps up a cone of snow and cross a bergshrund to get onto the route !!!
Billg - AltLd - 29/May/09 with Bob Brewer

johno072 - AltLd - 2009

An interesting introduction to the valley, for a non-crack-climber!
Pythonist - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/08 with Fatty & Alan

Dougie Harvey - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/08 with James Wheater, Finlay Wild

Hidden - Oct/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/08

first 5 pitches
richiebongo - AltLd O/S - Sep/08 with Nick Smith

markalmack - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

josephwilliams - Oct/07

Fantastic route other than the first pitch being a bit polished now. It is now normal to do 5 pitches and rap down the route to the left ( no rope problems + more climbing)
Shaw Brown - Lead - 17/Sep/07 with David Horgan

3 hours 550 feet. Led 1,3,5
DavidEvans - AltLd - 26/Apr/07 with Jules Vulliamy

PenJD - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/06 with Lianna Scholes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/06

al99 - AltLd O/S - Aug/06 with Luke Thomas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/06

Steve didn't fancy his leads much so I think I did 1,2,4 and 5. Tremendous, burly route I thought. Keeps coming!
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/May/06 with S. Mead

datoon - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/05 with RT

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Sep/04

First pitch only
timreynolds - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/04 with Martin Hoather

Hidden - Sep/04

Amazing route. Got ropes caught on abseil in descent and had nightmare escape!
steveP - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/04 with Chris Wynn

shark - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with Guy Maddox

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/03

Bern - 2003

lost.arrow - AltLd - 11/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - 2002

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Sep/99 with anthony prior, helen gibson

1st pitch only.
DafSWMC - Lead O/S - May/99 with Brit

Hidden - 2nd - 1999

first 5/6 pitches only
WB - Lead O/S - May/97 with Nicola

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/95

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1995

1st 5 pitches only
Roget - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/94 with baccy

neilh - Lead - Jun/94 with sara hyde

OMSKB - Jul/92 with Pete Aldwinkle, Richard Winfield

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Nigel Coe - AltLd - Aug/86 with Tim Dunsby

keefe - 11/Aug/85

Central Pillar of Frenzy is one my favorite moderate Valley routes. 5 pitches of mostly hand/fist crack; nearly vertical exposure, highly recommended.
Mystery Toad - AltLd O/S - 1985

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 15/Jul/81 with Russ Eyles

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 15/Sep/79 with Gerry Dunford

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/78

A good introduction to the local crack climbing.
petemeads - AltLd - Oct/75 with Mick Brady

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DBoothroyd, druss, oliverk, misterb, madeleine, HIGHTOWER

Total votes cast 34
hard 5.10a0 of 15
5.10a0 of 15
easy 5.10a3 of 15
hard 5.98 of 15
5.94 of 15
easy 5.90 of 15
hard 5.80 of 15
5.80 of 15
easy 5.80 of 15
3 Stars17 of 19
2 Stars1 of 19
1 Star0 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....1 of 19
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean G/U