UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

45m.

Rockfax Description
A classic. The arete to the right of Urizen is one of the finest routes at Baggy Point and sees a lot of traffic. Start at the foot of the corner of Urizen. Move up slightly and climb right, around the arete past a small corner to a crack-line in the face. Follow the line of cracks and large holds right of the arete to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , I want a Pasty! , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , South West Coastal Solo

Feedback

User Date Notes
jamesb101 1 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We had a classic situation of ‘just one more route’ before the tide got too high… There wasn’t really enough time and Oli has only narrowly missed getting pounded by the waves as I climbed v quickly
βeta?
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βeta: We had a classic situation of ‘just one more route’ before the tide got too high… There wasn’t really enough time and Oli has only narrowly missed getting pounded by the waves as I climbed v quickly
JimOakleyAdventures 24 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: You need to abseil down from the top stake Easier clamber back up without rope Crag to ourselves Created sling belay 2/3rds up route for Andre to get some warm up too
βeta?
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βeta: You need to abseil down from the top stake Easier clamber back up without rope Crag to ourselves Created sling belay 2/3rds up route for Andre to get some warm up too
jimbonfire 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing, you just don’t want it to end.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climbing, you just don’t want it to end.
Beyond The Trail 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The access to the crest of the slab is best achieved with an abseil then careful alpine-style moving together. *some loose blocks near the top*
Show beta
βeta: The access to the crest of the slab is best achieved with an abseil then careful alpine-style moving together. *some loose blocks near the top*
Liz.Morrison 4 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Spicey first move then it gets easier. Worth reaching over and protecting the crack with a cam before you transition on to the slab and climb the crack.
Show beta
βeta: Spicey first move then it gets easier. Worth reaching over and protecting the crack with a cam before you transition on to the slab and climb the crack.

Logged Ascents

1555 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 151
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 144
Votes cast 151
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ben

Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)

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