Climbs 150
Rocktype Culm

Faces SW

Mike on the end of a route © Richard Pollard

Crag features

Popular climbing venue. Perfect to combine with a surf at Croyde, Putsborough or Woolacombe. Baggy is best known for its south facing promontories with lovely slab routes on culm - metamorphosed sandstone - with good friction.

Lots of friendly, well protected slab climbs mostly in S to E2 range with easy access. A mid-range climber's slab paradise.
Note that the ever-popular Kinky Boots (VS 4c) with its amazing fallover start can be done in full even at high tide.

However, Baggy has a darker side - check out the climbing on the Cheesegrater Cliff or Concrete Wall for a spice of adventure!

Approach notes

Tidal - most climbs accessible from mid-tide but not at high tide. Exceptions are Kinkyboots and the adjacent routes on Promontory Slab.

Bird ban, 15th March to 30th June, Check guide for full details. Some of Scrattling Zawn, Cheesegreater Cliff and Concrete Wall are affected. Despite some of the white stakes showing restricted cliffs, Long Rock has been de-restricted since discussions in 2013.

BMC access database:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=508

Best approach is by foot, 20 minutes along track from NT car park in Croyde Bay.

Access Advice

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Promontory has always been unrestricted and now Long Rock too after some negotiations in 2013, but all other areas are restricted. Signs are up, white stakes too even one close to the descent rope for Long Rock, and these are quite strict with timings: 15th March - 30th June.
Joolz - 26/May/15
The BMC RAD site says they have negotiated with the NT ref bird nesting restriction access and the Long Rock is now permanently open for climbing all year round.
jon59 - 23/May/15
i went there yesterday and it was extremlly frightening and we werent even rock climbing! You lot are braver than me!
Annie Mcknee - 29/Sep/06
Dont come here if you dont like slab climbing
The Pylon King - 17/Sep/06
baggy point is an excellent place to climb for the novice to extremeist! excellent views and some very nice climbs. you could even bring your bird along!!
billy boy - 07/Dec/05
Baggy is one of the most breath-taking and beautiful crags in the country. I grew up climbing on these rocks and consider its wonderful routes amongst the best. Please respect this place - use the footpaths and take your litter with you. Thanx
zakalwe - 12/Aug/05
Baggy point is a very good climb site, I lived in devon for about 14 yrs, and i climbed there almost every weekend. Very good for begginers and experts.
Gaza - 25/May/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Dark ReliefS 4a *2
 Back Scrattling Zawn 
3Last of the Big Nuts
-
E1 4c 2
4Chouinard's Back Yard
-
VS 4c 2
5The Dark SideVS 4c 2
 Scrattling Zawn 
7Chouinard's Yard 2VS 4c 55
8Chouinard's Yard lHVS 5a *82
9The Go Between
-
HVS 5a 11
10Scrattling CrackVD **281
11Smile
-
S 4a 82
12MoonshotD *156
13Egg
-
E1 5b  
14The Blacksmith
-
HVS 5a 2
15Satisfaction
-
E1 5a  
16White Noise
-
VS  
17Reborn Man
-
E3 5b * 
18Resurrection
-
HVS 4c 3
19Cornflake Crack
-
HVS 5a  
20Emmental Arete
-
E4 5c  
 Cheesegrater Cliff 
22The NightfishingE7 6b  
23The Dark DialoguesE7 6b/c ** 
24Dark AngelE5 6a ***2
25Rindstone
-
E1 5a  
26Death on a Stick
-
E5 6a  
27Hawaiian Pipeline
-
E1 5a ***2
28HeadcleanerE6 6a/b ** 
29The White ThresholdE7 6c *** 
 Concrete Wall 
31Bird's Nest Crack
-
XS 5a 2
32Two Birds, One Stone
-
E3 5c  
33Fafnir
-
E2 5b  
34Concrete Karma
-
E3 5b 2
35The Concrete Rose
-
HVS 4c 5
36Potato CrackE4 5c  
37New Boots and Panties
-
XS 5b 2
38The Arete
-
VD 3
39Subsultus
-
VS 4c  
40Slipstream ll
-
E1 5b * 
41Fowl Play Fowler
-
VS 4b  
 The Long Rock 
43Far WestS 3
44Come Back Canute
-
VS 4c 3
45Don't Bring Harry
-
VS 4c  
46Drift
-
E1 5b  
47Culm-de-sacVS 4c 7
48Sting
-
VS 4c 43
49Dream LoverHVS 5b *29
50PickpocketHVS 5b **173
51Coast of Triumphs
-
HVS 5a 3
52Ye Old Scrote
-
E3 5c *11
53Doors of PerceptionE1 5b **123
54Speed and Distance
-
E3 5c **10
55TwinkletoesVS 4c **219
56InfernoE5 6a **8
57Embers
-
E5 6b ** 
58No SweatE1 5c *34
59UndercrackerE1 5a **113
60Ghecko Blaster
-
E4 5c *4
61Slip it in QuickE3 5c **23
62TerrapinE3 5b **47
63Slipstream l
-
E5 6a **2
64Last Testament
-
E6 6b ** 
65Soft TouchE4 6a **44
66Touch and Go
-
E5 6a 2
67Joys of Self EmploymentE1 5b 3
68Lost HorizonVS 5a ***811
69UrizenVS 4c *307
70Keep Left
-
VS 4c 5
71Shangri-LaS 4a ***767
72Wee Beastie
-
VS 4c 12
73Blowin Free
-
HVS 5a 2
74The Great Gig in the Sky
-
VS 4c 3
75The Great Beast
-
E1 5b *18
76Fools Rush In
-
E1 5b **8
77Fallen Angel
-
E3 5c * 
78Floodland
-
E1 5b  
79The Oldest Swingers in Town
-
E3 6a  
 The Central Walls 
81MultiplatorXS 2
82Mini Moose's Turnip Poem
-
XS 2
 Slab Cove 
84Astrodyne
-
XS 5b 2
85Set the Controls
-
E5 6a/b * 
86Heart of the SunE2 5c ***105
87Astronomy Domine
-
E2 5a  
88Pink Void
-
VS 4c *69
89Bike
-
HVS 4c  
90Bike Direct
-
HVS 4c  
91Tandem
-
XS  
92Margin
-
HVS 4c  
93Feint
-
HVS 5b *2
94Ruled
-
HVS 5a/b  
95The Last Lap
-
E2 5b  
96Clipper
-
E1 5b  
97The Promenade
-
D 3
98Contraband
-
HVS 4c *3
99The Scythe
-
VS 4c 2
100The Pox
-
HVS 4c 2
101Spare Rib
-
D 3
 The Promontory 
103Bird Ban
-
E4 5c  
104Candyman
-
HVS 5a 3
105Through the Looking Glass
-
E3 5c 1
106Double Overhang
-
S 33
107Over the LimitE3 5c  
108Affluence of Incahol
-
E2 5c 11
109Nudy Rudy
-
VD 22
110FreddieHS 4b *380
111BenS 4a ***771
112Sleepy ToesVS 4c 110
113MarionHS 4a **647
114In Marion's EyesVS 5a 104
115In Her EyesS 4a *469
116In Her Eyes (direct start)VS 4c 62
117Tomb of KhazadhumS 23
118lacking sunlightVD 4a 9
119Under the BridgeVS 4b 12
120The Bridge of Khazad-Dum
-
VD 109
121The Ridge of Khazad-Dum
-
M 50
122Sheet Whitening
-
VS 5a *41
123Blind FaithVS 4c 27
124Angel DelightHS 4b 5
125Unkle TimHVS 4c 3
126KinkybootsVS 4c *633
127keep going rightE4 6a *2
128Cirrus MinorVS 4c 19
129Midnight CowboyHVS 5b ***401
130Long Rock EliminateHVS 5a *99
131Right-hand Eliminate
-
HVS 5a *29
132Legs ElevenE2 5c  
133SexilegsHVS 5b **98
134Hot, Sweet And Sticky
-
E2 5c 12
135Gladiator
-
E1 5b *30
136The Narrow Way
-
E1 5b 12
137The Straight and NarrowE1 5b 15
138Straight upE2 5b 3
139Slip Sliding Away
-
E2 5c *9
140Arterial Bypass
-
E3 6a  
141Grand Vizier's Garden Party
-
HVS 5a 8
142Permafrost
-
HVS 5a *6
143Renata
-
HVS 5a  
144Svenja
-
VS 4b  
145G String
-
VS 2
146Peeping Tom
-
E1 5c **35
147Goats
-
S 4a 10
148Snory ToriVS 4c 3
149Yellow Submarine
-
VS 4b 5
150Shortera
-
HS 4b 2
151Titmould Incorporated
-
HVS 5a  
152S CustardVS 4c 6
153SirenVS 4c 4
154Ruby SlippersVS 4b 5
155FMB'sHS 4b *5
156Poofy Orange FeetVS 4c **3
157Middle WicketE1 5b  

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