Rockfax Description
An intimidating pitch on compact rock. The gear is spaced and only just adequate. Take plenty of small wires. Start on a raised ledge just right of the arete.
Climb the sustained wall right of the arete to better small holds that lead left to the arete itself and a spike runner. Progress to the overlap above, step up, and move left, past a peg, to the base of a very shallow depression. Sustained climbing past a couple of good small nut placements gains another peg. Pass this on the right and push on to the top not far above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Jackislav 21/Sep Lead O/S

Top peg missing, first peg is now essentially a paper-clip. Good route though, techy all the way

Lewis Stewart 15/Aug Lead O/S

Second peg is no longer there

with Claire
Hidden 15/Aug 2nd
ferdia 19/Jul 2nd
with Misha, Andrew Wilson
Misha 19/Jul 2nd O/S

Easy to second, nervy to lead. The guide book description is apt - just enough (decent) gear. Lots of 5b slab work with some fairly hard bits and the occasional snappy flake.

Andrew Wilson 19/Jul Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 17/May 2nd rpt

Felt hard

JoeCoxson 11/Apr Lead O/S

Second E2. Was terrified from the bottom, but made slow and steady progress up. Gear was spaced and a bit fiddly, but never felt overly close to death.

stephen ashworth 15/Mar Lead
with Thomas Simpson
dbrooks 08/Feb Lead O/S

scary! could've done with some micro wires... awesome route though

with Gareth
timdi 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
burto 31/May/14 Lead
with tom powell
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd
dmannion ?/May/14 Lead β
alexjz 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Superb. Loved every bit of it. Lots of small wires. Found a good amount of pro and built a bunker around the first peg. The second peg is no longer. Amazing friction and very good solid rock. Felt a bit runout but was expecting worse

James Oswald 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Really good. A scary start without much gear got very tired calves so down climbed to the start. The top felt fairly steady. Enough gear and a long but fairly steady runout at the top. Ace. Soft e2

with Ruthyb22
Mark Kemball 07/Sep/13 Lead
with Philip Wilson, Solly Kemball Dorey
dready 01/Jun/13 TR O/S

wow great climb id like to lead it the top section after the peg is very thin and would be scary on the lead

masa-alpin 25/May/13 Lead O/S

My first extreme in months! A little sketchy at the initial several metres. Sustained on feet. Belayed by Andy. All my seconds climbed cleanly.

Hidden 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd O/S
robgixer 25/May/13 2nd
Rob84 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Greenwood
Bristoldave 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Jelly Mould Surfer 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Checking routes for new guide book. Excellent intense route. Good rock, fantastic moves, super friction - but poorly protected. Top piton gone.

martin clarke 16/Sep/12 2nd
Frostie 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Maybe pushed my luck a bit on this climb, expected to find a second peg, but its missing. Didn't have enough small wires but pushed on regardless. good climb.

with Martin Clarke
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR O/S
climbingchippie 26/Aug/12 TR
klo1981 24/Aug/12 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 2nd
Ian JL 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
Ian JL 02/Apr/12 2nd
Matt Smith 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Very long run out at top, with a 1/4 nut last bit of gear. Squeaky bum time. Tide almost got us as well. Top peg is missing, but peg in middle is sound.

Ed morris 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with ewan
ewanthomson 28/Oct/11 2nd O/S
tim exley 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 28/Sep/11 Lead β

Tims Beta.

with Harvey
climbhannahclimb 28/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Chad123 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lovely route, sustained and fiddly gear keeps you interested - one thinner section up the scoop and not sure about the pegs! Going up to the right avoids the crux and is not really the point! At high tide requires a ridge traverse and diagonal abseil to escape!

with Ben
climbhannahclimb 06/Jun/11 TR O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
kdalzell 26/Apr/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd
Andrew1 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Hulda
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Will Fuller 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Sarp Ackay
sarpedon ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
alice fuller 09/Nov/10 2nd O/S

Thought it was soft.

Hidden 15/Oct/10 2nd
monsteratt 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
El3ctroFuzz 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Sustained 5b!

with Tom Thorpe
Hidden ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
RHarding 12/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Lacey 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
feilx 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Okecroak 07/Aug/10 2nd
with W. Frost
decs 03/Jul/10 2nd
with David Barlow
peaches69 21/Jun/10 2nd O/S

very thin!!!!!!!!!!!!! hard 5b

with rob
culmclimberRob 21/Jun/10 Lead β

2nd this last year ish sometime, remembered the thread, for a bit of gear, but couldnt remember nout else

with simon crisp
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd O/S
BEZ 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Sam hinton
vertically_challenged 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Mike W ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
manwithacam 25/Oct/09 Lead

I may have strayed from the line a little above the halfway rest

with Martin
culmclimberRob 01/Jan/09 2nd
with tom
chris sm 11/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
mick1jones 15/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Mike Guttridge
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 01/Sep/06 2nd O/S
ecowaller 23/Jul/06 Lead

Nice but only E1 5a

with Paula
Mark Kemball 21/Jun/06 Lead
with Stacey Ward
Hidden 08/Jul/05 2nd
rockjedi12345 ??/2004 Lead O/S

nice climb, badly protected near top

Hidden 26/Oct/03 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Jul/00 Lead

00 quadcam was very nice to protect the top part.

with Katharine Pemberton, Dan Lear
Mark Kemball ??/1999 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Master Chief, martinov, OllieF, Oddjob, stephen ashworth, hutchay, Hidden, alexjz, RFWilkie, Motown, Ropeboy, kyle, Dan Lane, Ian Jones, Alan100, vertically_challenged, culmclimberRob, Owen W-G, Phil79, Dr Caterpillar, pmot
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set