130m, 3 pitches.
From SMC new route journal:
"Vertex 130m IV,5 **. Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy. 6th December 2008.
Climbs a line close to the right (west) edge of No.6 Buttress overlooking the initial gully of The Causeway. A reasonable choice if doubtful conditions prevail higher up. The existing route, Pyramid, takes the left edge of the buttress. Quite technical in places and climbed in deep powder conditions. Start behind a huge detached block directly beneath the right edge.
1. 45m From a chockstone belay move up and traverse left into an obvious groove line just left of the edge. Climb the groove to a large flake below steep wall. Climb the slabby wall on the left, then move back right and continue up a groove to a detached flake and thread on the edge overlooking the gully.
2. 45m Awkward moves lead steeply up a wall on the left into a groove which leads to a slabby corner. Climb the steep wall just right of the corner and continue up short steps to easier ground.
3. 40m Further short walls lead to the final steepening which is avoided by a short traverse left to the edge. A narrow snow arete leads to the top of the buttress.
Either finish by Cleftweave or The Causeway. Alternatively, if a shorter day is required, abseil off a block on the narrow ridge at the top of the buttress leftwards into the initial gully of Cleftweave on the left which leads fairly easily back into the corrie."
"Vertex 130m IV,5 **. Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy. 6th December 2008.
Climbs a line close to the right (west) edge of No.6 Buttress overlooking the initial gully of The Causeway. A reasonable choice if doubtful conditions prevail higher up. The existing route, Pyramid, takes the left edge of the buttress. Quite technical in places and climbed in deep powder conditions. Start behind a huge detached block directly beneath the right edge.
1. 45m From a chockstone belay move up and traverse left into an obvious groove line just left of the edge. Climb the groove to a large flake below steep wall. Climb the slabby wall on the left, then move back right and continue up a groove to a detached flake and thread on the edge overlooking the gully.
2. 45m Awkward moves lead steeply up a wall on the left into a groove which leads to a slabby corner. Climb the steep wall just right of the corner and continue up short steps to easier ground.
3. 40m Further short walls lead to the final steepening which is avoided by a short traverse left to the edge. A narrow snow arete leads to the top of the buttress.
Either finish by Cleftweave or The Causeway. Alternatively, if a shorter day is required, abseil off a block on the narrow ridge at the top of the buttress leftwards into the initial gully of Cleftweave on the left which leads fairly easily back into the corrie."
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Route of Interest
East Buttress (Winter)
Grade: IV 5 ***
(Beinn Eighe)