Protozoan HS 4a

Rockfax Description
An exciting left-hand finish to the next route. Traverse left from the tree and pull over into a groove. Up this to a leftward exit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Same hard start as Dead Nettle Crack, up to 1st tree, traverse left & up, dodge nose to left, over it, traverse 5m right to break to finish. Maybe HS 4c for the start.

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This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Clee - 2nd - 29/Sep/13 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/09

arctic_jen - 2nd - 24/Jul/09 with Dan

Hidden - Solo - 12/May/09

Some wacky stuff going on hereabouts in the guidebook. The start is hard, in the awkward mold, although not 4c, and not out of character for a "traditional" VDiff, prob Nettle crack should be in at Vdiff 4a. The line description and topo line do not match at all, a traverse 5m right only makes sense, if you decide to arbitarily first travese 5 m left beyond the second tree, or if the finish is meant to be to the right of the original crack, in which case it is drawn way out on the BMC topo. In any case, the logical route goes straight up from the tree, then pulls through the roof on obvious jugs and flake before a step left to avoid the capstone. This makes it HS 4a on the money for me. Have to say Agden rocher section of the BMC guide looks like an afterthought, which is a shame as the climbing is good.
Sankey - Lead O/S - 07/May/09 with Andy

andyebbens - 2nd - 07/May/09 with Steve E

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/08

Al Evans - 2008

Brown - Solo O/S - 13/Mar/07

Despite the meandering line, the climbing is excellent throughout. Technical crux is getting off the ground, mental crux is the exposed traverse at the top.
Simon Caldwell - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/06 with Carmen

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Jan/06

John Marsland - Lead - 28/Mar/81 with Barry Gray

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