Cumbria > Esk Buttress (Dow Crag) >
 
Square Chimney/Medusa Wall Combination*** VS

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/13

Adi Hooper - AltLd - 20/Aug/13 with Jacek

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13

Initial issues finding route, headed up to larger more obvious chimney first. Heather scrambling not the most fun. Ben lead square cut pitches in one, good moves.I did Medusa pitches in one. Nice positions.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - AltLd - 13/Jul/13 with Ian CMC, Ben Pearce

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/13

andybirtwistle - 2013

neilh - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12

Great route with superbly contrasting pitches, the bits you need are mostly moss free
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Matt Harris

very mossy
claregardiner - Lead - 06/May/12

Lead pitches 1,2, 4 and 5.
rockrat - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Luke Armitage

Paulinho - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

Complete with thunder and rain
Steve Woollard - Lead - 08/Jul/11 with Kevin Colclough

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/11

Shaw Brown - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with Judith Neaves

Lead P3
andysroom - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11

A very windy day but classic climb. Led the first two pitches together, a lot of climbing in 30m of rock!
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Andy Parsons, Kane

peter myers - AltLd - 30/Apr/11 with Krissy Humble

highfivekrissy - AltLd - 30/Apr/11 with Pete Myers

Good route but the guidebook pitch lengths are all over the place.
LakesWinter - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with AD

twoplates - 2nd - 26/Mar/11 with frith wood

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

done in two pitches. one for square chimney, one for medusa wall. square chimney is quite mossy, but made up for by some good positions on medusa wall
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with james rowe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/10

First pitch only as subsequent pitches under a forest of moss. Continued on Bridges Route.
Mowglee - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Will Hunt

Gareth did the first pitch clean, I seconded. The left slab looked filthy. Couldn't see a hold on it. I led up the right hand continuation crack to the first stance on the much more agreeable Bridges Route.
Will Hunt - AltLd dnf - 22/May/10 with Gareth Uglow

Climbed this on wet day, walls of chimney very damp and therefore very little friction, David led the main chimney pitch which was tough. Interesting how relatively easy VS grade can become much more of a challenge in different condiions.
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10 with David Ford

Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Myself!

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

George Bassant - AltLd - 23/Jun/09 with John Ford

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/09

Hard first moves because climbed onto right side of chimney when should have gone straight up to sloping ledge on left as in guide book
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Rich Rogers

nathanlee - AltLd O/S - Jun/09

Continued from p1 of Square Chimney to the first belay of Bridge's Route, then ran pitches 2+3 of Bridge's together to bypass p2+3 of SC, before continuing up Medusa Wall.
Blisco - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Joris Roulleau

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - Lead - Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/07

max_chan - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Lou

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jul/05

danm - AltLd - May/05 with Jim Danson

jsw1 - AltLd O/S - 23/May/04 with Steve Lyon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/May/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/04

Hidden - Lead - Sep/03

MaNimal - Lead - 10/Aug/03 with Jo Larty

Neil Ireson - AltLd - Jul/03 with Jane

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/03 with Malin, Alex S, Joe Thompson

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Hidden - 12/Jun/99

Rog Wilko - Lead - 1994 with Debbie Wilkinson

PeteCheung - AltLd - 1991 with Ian and Pete Butler

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Richard Weller - AltLd - 21/May/88 with Paul Mavin

Left Leeds on a superb sunny but frosty morning. As we approached the crag the clag came in and boy was it cold! Memorable day though - stumbled back to the car in the dark.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/87 with Frank Wilkinson

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo - 1985

Bob - AltLd O/S - 19/May/84 with Bill Birkett

David Smith - Lead - 1982 with Andy Bennett

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Tactmaster, Hidden, woodsy, gingermike1, CM1992, Hidden, JanBella, Peter Metcalfe, a13x, Hidden, Bradders, Hidden, Hidden, Trobbo

Voting
Total votes cast 26
hard HVS0 of 13
HVS0 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard VS3 of 13
VS10 of 13
easy VS0 of 13
hard HS0 of 13
HS0 of 13
easy HS0 of 13
3 Stars3 of 13
2 Stars10 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 64 (3.1%)
Lead14 of 64 (21.9%)
Followed3 of 64 (4.7%)
Alt Leads34 of 64 (53.1%)
Unknown11 of 64 (17.2%)

'Climbed'38 of 64 (59.4%)
clean O/S24 of 64 (37.5%)
dnf2 of 64 (3.1%)