Another route on LH crag which is hard for grade. I wanted my friend who is new to trad climbing to lead this. Luckily he refused it otherwise it could be a tough battle for him.
Not really 2 * Chris Sieradzki - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with dale.young
petersheppard - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with joe gallacher
Nice route , think i took the rh crack in error ,,,bloody hard error...no harm done , good value for its grade.
joe gallacher - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Peter Sheppard, Allan Green
dale.young - 2nd - 20/Jul/14 with Chris sieradzki
Garbage. Torturous route finding, grease, dirt and half of the Wye valley vegetation growing out of it. A pair of garden shears would have of more use than a gear rack. Two stars??? Two piles of steamy poo.
Pike - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Mark Condon
Hidden - 29/Jun/14
brian watson - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with scott titt
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14
Rob84 - AltLd rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin
cjohn62 - AltLd - 08/Jun/14 with gareth
JClimb - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Stuart MacLachlin
stujamac - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Jenny Yate
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/14
Didn't have a guidebook but it looks like this is what I climbed, which is good because it was what I was aiming for. The route finding was tortuous but following the line of least resistance got me there in the end. Quite sustained but plenty of rest and plenty of gear so I think fair enough for HS, especially given the grading on right crag.
squicky - Lead - 17/May/14
Nice evening climbing with Alec Roberts
SteveJB - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/14
JonnyFawell - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/14
Good route with plenty of descent climbing. Hard for the grade.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Anna Kennedy
annak - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Lee Harrison
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14
fuzzysheep01 - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Andy Armstrong
A great lead from Felix.
AndrewP - 2nd - 10/Mar/14 with FelixPeterken
Quite hard, but liked it. Can be a bit tricky navigating.
FelixPeterken - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14 with Andrew Peterken
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Nick Russell
Pretty sure we went a different way to my first time on this. Good climb on a sunny day.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/14 with Alastair Begley, Emily
Another good route, although Owen struggled somewhat on the moves in the middle and shouted a lot.
67hours - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Oweeeen
sheelba - 2nd - 01/Mar/14
will_benfold - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Angus McBride, Sarah Woodrow
Pintsize - 2nd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Angus McBride, Will Benfold
Hidden - 2014
Ian JL - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Beth Frampton
Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/13
islandlynx - Lead O/S - Sep/13 with Amy
MD - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Jo
Lost the will to climb at the top section and the strength to haul the ropes up any further. The most bewildering route finding exercise yet.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Mike D
fishinwater - Lead - 07/Aug/13 with Chris W
Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/13
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Monkey
A satisfying line, but the climbing doesn't flow particularly nicely.
Monk - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Andy A, Kylie, Luke
2 sets of hexes useful.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with Ben
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with Peter
Not as nice as billed
Eoinparker - 2nd O/S - 12/May/13 with Hassen Bali
Exposed in parts, satisfying to finish.
HassenBali - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Eoin Parker
p3tersen - 2nd - 12/May/13 with Brad Hopkins
madguernseyboy - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Neil Nand, Lucy Plowman
lgp81 - 2nd dnf - 27/Apr/13 with Neil Nand, Brendan Gill
Gavdee1 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13
Excellent. Split in to two pitches as some of it was a bit damp and I didn't fancy the stretch in nearly 40m of rope if I came off near the top. 4a and 4b moves all the way.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Ric
bonelessivar - 2nd - 15/Feb/13 with Alan
haz rudry - 2nd - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Kyuzo - 01/Dec/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12
Deary65 - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12
Pero - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/12
Gareth T - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Amber
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12
Got up first crack and halfway up the second before my arms gave out. It's all there but has some exposed moves.
localboy - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/12 with Simon C
Dark. Led to get Mike's gear back, then got rope stuck after abseil.
simonf - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Simon, Mike
timreynolds - Lead - 19/Aug/12
Two pitches, long absail.
Jonners - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12
Great cimbing, quite exposed.
Country_Boy - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Anton
Maybe started on the Crack and finished on Papillon, great climb any how!!
colinthomson5 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with John Hillman
klo1981 - 2nd dog - 27/May/12 with Iain
TR909 - Lead O/S - 27/May/12
climbingchippie - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Katie Brown
well, crackillon more like. Good route still though
PaulWatson - 2nd rpt - 22/May/12 with Tony, Rosy
jdgaventa - Lead - 05/May/12 with katy
Better split into 2 pitches, or take a ton of gear
steveprice.exmouth - Lead - 23/Apr/12 with Ellie Woods
Sarah Welsh - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Emma Grant
EllieWoods - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Steve Price
Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/12
Ybot Htulk - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Sonya
Just too knackered after 'Cadillac'
Phil Layton - AltLd dnf - 25/Mar/12 with Justin B
pad-rat - 2012
Hidden - 2012
This is not an HS. Committing and serious. Needs a strong lead. cold and Windy November day may have made it feel worse.
98%monkey - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Nicki
Mistee - 2nd β - 26/Nov/11 with Phil
Split into 2 pitches. As the consensus suggests, hard in the grade
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11
Hidden - 2nd - 03/Oct/11
Stays dry in rain with strong enough westerlies!
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11 with Andy B
jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Emily Cropton
Emily Cropton - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with Jon Ridley
andy dunn - 2nd - 27/Aug/11 with Big Ben, J
martin one - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Neil Nand
Good climb that's worth doing. Some rocks are a little bit lose though.
Maybe slightly harder than most HS but not by to much.
ElBarto - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Martin Lennon
Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/11 with Emma Hawkins
Not sure I found the correct start of this. What I climbed was dirty and vegetated at the start, clearly not worth any stars
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Simon Berring, Emma Grant
Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11
Blue68 - 25/Jun/11
Found it hard for the grade although there is plenty of gear if you can be bothered to drag enough up with you.
grumpyoldjanner - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Matt 'Bungle' Larkins
Great climb, last 20m is really good. Done in 2 pitches on first of AMC regular Wednesday evening climbs.
Deano100 - 2nd - 25/May/11
JamieTown - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Angus Mckendrick
Long pitch, high in the grade with several 4b sections, but good rests and gear so HS seems the right grade. Take hexes and plenty of draws (I used 13 runners and could easily have put more in).
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Stewart
Stewart Armstrong - 24/Apr/11 with Ivan Bicknell
Gregthebadger - 2nd - 07/Apr/11
more like a VS, exit groove is sustained...
alexanderjwatts - Lead - 19/Mar/11
Hidden - 2011
Tim Sparrow - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Garron - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/10
JenDurden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with John Tanner
HS 4b? I suppose possibly, but I've definitely climbed a number of VS climbs that are a similar standard
James Moyle - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/10 with piers cunliffe
d_meacher - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Lucy Rouse, Jess patel
Becky C - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Duncan
Hard for the grade.Led as 2 pitches.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Tim
hotfeet - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Keith
felt hard for the grade.. maybe because I haven't climbed outside for a wee while. Lovely day!
gilbert - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Jonathan Percival
gripped01 - 2nd - Aug/10 with Gilbert
muttley_109 - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Gary Lewis
Started up what might have been the Crack, but was loose and dirty, so finished up this. Pretty good climb I thought, but tough for HS.
Rob Exile Ward - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Sam Ward
martinp - 2nd - 11/Jul/10 with Adam
AdamP - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Martin
martinp - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with IanH
Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/10
Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/10
wilchivs - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with Liv Pearson
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Liz davies
lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Al Franks
Stunning climb, best lead to date and harder than any VS I have led. Very steep for an HS, long, varied, sustained and really makes you think. Good rock and well protected provided you take loads of big gear and long runners.
PaulWatson - Lead O/S - 13/May/10 with Dave P
David Qualtrough - May/10
stuart34 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10
Tim Ducker - 2nd - 20/Apr/10
martinp - 2nd - 16/Apr/10 with Alan C
PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Dan Simmonds, Martin Hore
DaNo123 - Lead - 07/Apr/10 with martin, Hanzler
petedunford183 - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/10
btc - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Susannah Ellis
James_86 - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Jacob
Looser than the guidebook said I think - fresh rock scars right at the start, near the loose block someone else mentioned and also on the finish. Hence fair at VS I think.
Edit: on later inspection of fallen rock on the ground, it appears a large flake has come away from the first section.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with ah
Jacob k-d - Lead O/S - Feb/10
bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 17/Sep/09 with Clare
RossT - Lead - 16/Aug/09
aged_ape - Lead O/S - Aug/09
Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/09
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/09
Hidden - 2nd β - 25/Jul/09
Sam W - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Tom Bide
AlexDexter - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with anthony nichols
MikeC59 - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09
TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Dave Gale
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Jamie Ward
jamie ward - 2nd - 26/May/09 with Toby Dunford
chrisallan - Lead O/S - 25/May/09
five - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with TW
chrisjones199 - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hash Popat
Mark Batey - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hash Popat
hash - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Janette
brady - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/09 with Micky
Nice line. Watch out for the huge wobbly block at the begining of the finishing groove.
mickyconnor - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with steve
Great climb, rubbish anchor at the top unless you go all the way back. Worst bit is the descent - we missed the path back to the crag and were fumbling through the woods for an hour or so!
FayeG - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Netty
BenTiffin - Lead - 20/Feb/09 with Ellen Wolfenden
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/09 with Jonboy
martinazando - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Al Benson
al99 - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella
martinazando - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Al Benson
lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/08 with Sam Smith, Greg Pittam
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/08
An entertaining and sustained outing that definitely felt harder than HS. Plenty of moves and variety make this route deserve its stars.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd - 10/Aug/08 with Jordan Lane
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08
PhillipG - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Roger
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - Jun/08 with Jenny Watson
JimBee - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Ian Whitehead
Piers - Lead β - 20/May/08 with Charlie Goldblatt
DannyK - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/08 with pep
My Gravity - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Ben P
haydng - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/08 with Rachel
deklan - Lead - Feb/08
Split the climb into 2 at the big tree. Less rope drag and more gear for the top pitch. (It eats gear.) Very loose block on the top.
Matt Tranter - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/07 with Jen Edwards
Jen79 - 2nd - 23/Oct/07 with Matt Tranter
The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/07 with David Elder
120 ft steep single pitch, requiring protection all the way. I ran short after half way and finished using anything I could find as extenders. Very nice route, good quality rock.
11 months later I climbed Papillon 'again', and found that the previous ascent wasn't Papillon at all, as it started from a different tree, lower on the left. It could have been Starfinder or Mustang. Definitely worth a return visit to try to make sense of it.
Humpty Dangler - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with John Ricketts
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Adrian Lowe
Circus - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/07 with Lou
Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07
gareth r - Lead O/S - 20/May/07 with welsh kim
eagleopus - AltLd O/S - 20/May/07 with Martin
Ing - 2nd - 29/Apr/07 with Hal and James
halhorner - 2nd - 29/Apr/07 with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson
Be careful of loose rock at top.
leigh - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Ed
Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Russ
dave657 - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07 with mel_1
Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/07
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - Feb/07 with Dunks
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/07
Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/06
simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Andy Graham
brady - 2nd - 07/Jun/06 with Martin Skinner
Jason Gotel - Lead O/S - May/06 with Pippa Lansdown
kyt341k - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Ben Freidland
Ybot Htulk - Lead - Mar/06 with Pete
timharrison - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/05 with Abi Marchent
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/03 with Clare
Little B - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/03
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/03
Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/01 with Og (Andrew Forbes)
Hidden - 2nd - Jan/01
alan moore - 2000
Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/98 with Emma Day
Hidden - Lead - 03/May/97
mikej - Lead - 26/Jul/90 with Keith Edwards