UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
An adventurous and reasonably well-travelled line. Start at a boulder, right of the large tree growing up against the face. Climb to and up a groove to a tree at 9m. Climb the crack with two small overhangs above. The crack ends at a ledge (junction with The Crack). Move right and finish up the pleasant corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe , Wye Valley 10 x 10 , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 22 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I actually think this one is best done in 2 pitches (belaying on the ledge behind the big tree 10 metres up), to reduce rope drag and because the belay trees are a bit of a way back. Above this ledge there a 3 short cracks (though LWV only mentions 2!) - start in the middle one and switch to the left-hand one after a couple of metres.
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βeta: I actually think this one is best done in 2 pitches (belaying on the ledge behind the big tree 10 metres up), to reduce rope drag and because the belay trees are a bit of a way back. Above this ledge there a 3 short cracks (though LWV only mentions 2!) - start in the middle one and switch to the left-hand one after a couple of metres.
GrumpyGoat 27 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock. My second accidentally pulled a large hold off just beneath the tree ledge.
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βeta: Loose rock. My second accidentally pulled a large hold off just beneath the tree ledge.
WeirdWyrd 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Alot of loose rock
βeta?
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βeta: Alot of loose rock
lakeyross 3 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Ace root. Bold lead in places for a HS (assuming we went on the correct line!)
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βeta: Ace root. Bold lead in places for a HS (assuming we went on the correct line!)
Gingerlings 14 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I accidentally took the middle crack, I stead of the far left one, which felt a bit harder than 4b. There was lots of polish the way I went up so I\'m definitely not the only person to have done it this way. Really fun, well protected.
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βeta: I accidentally took the middle crack, I stead of the far left one, which felt a bit harder than 4b. There was lots of polish the way I went up so I'm definitely not the only person to have done it this way. Really fun, well protected.
FerClimbs 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tree is well alive. It has several loops of tat around it and a mallion to abseil from. I am not sure which tree the other feedback is talking about.
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βeta: Abseil tree is well alive. It has several loops of tat around it and a mallion to abseil from. I am not sure which tree the other feedback is talking about.
PaulJepson 1 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Ab tree is solid and well-rooted but very much dead.
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βeta: Ab tree is solid and well-rooted but very much dead.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 90
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cadillac

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wynd Cliff)

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