Papillon** HS 4b
[Minkles pulling hard, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye, A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe.

Photo: Minkles pulling hard © david03182
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This climb is in 259 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

dvincen6 - Lead - 27/Sep/15 with Lucy

WillAndrew - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/15 with Sph144

AngelaC - AltLd - 20/Sep/15 with Rick Sewards

PanzerHanzler - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/15 with Steve Mace

Luke90 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/15 with Liz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/15

Avon Man - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/15 with Derek

Hidden - 09/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/15

StefanP - Lead - Aug/15

tom0129 - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/15 with Luuuuuke

Lead second pitch
MikeC59 - Lead - 28/Jul/15 with David E

Top end of HS, I would have been happy for this to be VS really. Nice steep climbing, bit of a dirty exit.
BStar - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/15 with Will Bryant

will484 - 2nd - 16/Jul/15 with BStar

rope got stuck on a tree.....had MAJOR issues pulling it up behind me!!! Made a lovely route BLOODY hard work!!!!
natlavender - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Malcolm Phelps

danieleaston - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Stephan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/15

Steve Bartle - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/15 with Kevin V-C

JGriffiths - 2nd - 03/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/May/15

An excersize in routefinding. Absailed off the top in the dark. - 2nd O/S - 12/May/15

steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/15 with Alex Tibbs

abtibbs - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Steve Gibbs

Alextreme - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/15 with Jerzy Wieczorek

John1458 - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/15

tommy.henriksson78 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/15 with Tom Barratt

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/15

crater - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/15 with steve

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Karl Halliday

First climb in 10 months. Felt hard!
KarlH - 2nd - 04/Apr/15 with Kyle Wood

Hidden - Lead G/U - 22/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/15

Got very lost, but we think we did this.
Fatclimber - 2nd - 21/Feb/15 with John Deakin

Deako - Lead - 21/Feb/15 with Fatclimber

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/14 with Debbie

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/14 with Dave Hassard

markfromstoke - Lead - 07/Sep/14 with Adrian

MJAS82 - 2nd - 05/Sep/14

clams - Lead O/S - Sep/14 with Catherine

CatMc - 2nd - Sep/14 with clams

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/14

ju59 - 2nd - 24/Aug/14 with Hugh

birthers - 2nd - 23/Aug/14 with Caroline C

caroline256 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Tom B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14

Echna - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Rich

SiyP - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with McCoy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

Nice long route. Start is tricky to find and can't see the full route from the ground. Start on the mossy rock between 2 trees and bear left at the top, avoiding looser & dirtier righthand groove
jameshadley - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14 with Elsa

Another route on LH crag which is hard for grade. I wanted my friend who is new to trad climbing to lead this. Luckily he refused it otherwise it could be a tough battle for him. Not really 2 *
Chris Sieradzki - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with dale.young

petersheppard - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with joe gallacher

Nice route , think i took the rh crack in error ,,,bloody hard harm done , good value for its grade.
joe gallacher - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Peter Sheppard, Allan Green

dale.young - 2nd - 20/Jul/14 with Chris sieradzki

danbirkby - Lead - 18/Jul/14 with Gordon

Garbage. Torturous route finding, grease, dirt and half of the Wye valley vegetation growing out of it. A pair of garden shears would have of more use than a gear rack. Two stars??? Two piles of steamy poo.
Pike - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Mark Condon

Hidden - 29/Jun/14

brian watson - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with scott titt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

Rob84 - AltLd rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin

cjohn62 - AltLd - 08/Jun/14 with gareth

JClimb - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Stuart MacLachlin

stujamac - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Jenny Yate

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

Didn't have a guidebook but it looks like this is what I climbed, which is good because it was what I was aiming for. The route finding was tortuous but following the line of least resistance got me there in the end. Quite sustained but plenty of rest and plenty of gear so I think fair enough for HS, especially given the grading on right crag.
squicky - Lead - 17/May/14

Nice evening climbing with Alec Roberts
SteveJB - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/14

JonnyFawell - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/14

Good route with plenty of descent climbing. Hard for the grade.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Anna Kennedy

annak - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Lee Harrison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14

fuzzysheep01 - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Andy Armstrong

A great lead from Felix.
AndrewP - 2nd - 10/Mar/14 with FelixPeterken

Quite hard, but liked it. Can be a bit tricky navigating.
FelixPeterken - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14 with Andrew Peterken

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Nick Russell

Pretty sure we went a different way to my first time on this. Good climb on a sunny day.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/14 with Alastair Begley, Emily

Another good route, although Owen struggled somewhat on the moves in the middle and shouted a lot.
67hours - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Oweeeen

sheelba - 2nd - 01/Mar/14

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Angus McBride, Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - 2nd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Angus McBride, Will Benfold

Egons Issy - 2014

rich H0001 - Lead - 2014

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/13

islandlynx - Lead O/S - Sep/13 with Amy

MD - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Jo

Lost the will to climb at the top section and the strength to haul the ropes up any further. The most bewildering route finding exercise yet.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Mike D

fishinwater - Lead - 07/Aug/13 with Chris W

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/13

mullermn - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Monkey

A satisfying line, but the climbing doesn't flow particularly nicely.
Monk - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Andy A, Kylie, Luke

2 sets of hexes useful.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with Ben

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with Peter

Not as nice as billed
Eoinparker - 2nd O/S - 12/May/13 with Hassen Bali

Exposed in parts, satisfying to finish.
HassenBali - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Eoin Parker

p3tersen - 2nd - 12/May/13 with Brad Hopkins

madguernseyboy - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Neil Nand, Lucy Plowman

Wildstyle - 2nd dnf - 27/Apr/13 with Neil Nand, Brendan Gill

ElBarto - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Brendan Gill, Lucy Plowman

Gavdee1 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

Excellent. Split in to two pitches as some of it was a bit damp and I didn't fancy the stretch in nearly 40m of rope if I came off near the top. 4a and 4b moves all the way.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Ric

bonelessivar - 2nd - 15/Feb/13 with Alan

haz rudry - 2nd - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Kyuzo - 01/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12

hard for the grade but beautiful
saraguti - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with chris

Deary65 - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Pero - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

Matt1234 - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/12

Gareth T - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Amber

Screamed all the way 40m. On the wrong route. Should have been on the severe!
Amber Chaloner - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Gareth Thomas

Got up first crack and halfway up the second before my arms gave out. It's all there but has some exposed moves.
localboy - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/12 with Simon C

Dark. Led to get Mike's gear back, then got rope stuck after abseil.
simonf - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Simon, Mike

timreynolds - Lead - 19/Aug/12

Two pitches, long absail.
Jonners - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Great cimbing, quite exposed.
Country_Boy - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Anton

Maybe started on the Crack and finished on Papillon, great climb any how!!
colinthomson5 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with John Hillman

klo1981 - 2nd dog - 27/May/12 with Iain

TR909 - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

climbingchippie - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Katie Brown

well, crackillon more like. Good route still though
PaulWatson - 2nd rpt - 22/May/12 with Tony, Rosy

jdgaventa - Lead - 05/May/12 with katy

Better split into 2 pitches, or take a ton of gear
steveprice.exmouth - Lead - 23/Apr/12 with Ellie Woods

Sarah Welsh - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Emma Grant

EllieWoods - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Steve Price

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/12

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Sonya

Just too knackered after 'Cadillac'
Phil Layton - AltLd dnf - 25/Mar/12 with Justin B

pad-rat - 2012

Hidden - 2012

This is not an HS. Committing and serious. Needs a strong lead. cold and Windy November day may have made it feel worse.
98%monkey - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Nicki

Mistee - 2nd β - 26/Nov/11 with Phil

Split into 2 pitches. As the consensus suggests, hard in the grade
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Oct/11

Stays dry in rain with strong enough westerlies!
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11 with Andy B

unusual, fun.
jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Emily Cropton

Emily Cropton - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with Jon Ridley

andy dunn - 2nd - 27/Aug/11 with Big Ben, J

martin one - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Neil Nand

Good climb that's worth doing. Some rocks are a little bit lose though. Maybe slightly harder than most HS but not by to much.
ElBarto - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Martin Lennon

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/11 with Emma Hawkins

Not sure I found the correct start of this. What I climbed was dirty and vegetated at the start, clearly not worth any stars
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Simon Berring, Emma Grant

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Blue68 - 25/Jun/11

Found it hard for the grade although there is plenty of gear if you can be bothered to drag enough up with you.
grumpyoldjanner - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Matt 'Bungle' Larkins

Great climb, last 20m is really good. Done in 2 pitches on first of AMC regular Wednesday evening climbs.
Deano100 - 2nd - 25/May/11

JamieTown - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Angus Mckendrick

Long pitch, high in the grade with several 4b sections, but good rests and gear so HS seems the right grade. Take hexes and plenty of draws (I used 13 runners and could easily have put more in).
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 24/Apr/11 with Ivan Bicknell

Gregthebadger - 2nd - 07/Apr/11

more like a VS, exit groove is sustained...
alexanderjwatts - Lead - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Garron - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/10

JenDurden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with John Tanner

HS 4b? I suppose possibly, but I've definitely climbed a number of VS climbs that are a similar standard
James Moyle - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/10 with piers cunliffe

d_meacher - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Lucy Rouse, Jess patel

Becky C - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Duncan

Hard for the grade.Led as 2 pitches.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Tim

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Keith

felt hard for the grade.. maybe because I haven't climbed outside for a wee while. Lovely day!
gilbert - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Jonathan Percival

gripped01 - 2nd - Aug/10 with Gilbert

muttley_109 - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Gary Lewis

Started up what might have been the Crack, but was loose and dirty, so finished up this. Pretty good climb I thought, but tough for HS.
Rob Exile Ward - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Sam Ward

martinp - 2nd - 11/Jul/10 with Adam

AdamP - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Martin

martinp - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with IanH

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/10

wilchivs - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with Liv Pearson

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Al Franks

Stunning climb, best lead to date and harder than any VS I have led. Very steep for an HS, long, varied, sustained and really makes you think. Good rock and well protected provided you take loads of big gear and long runners.
PaulWatson - Lead O/S - 13/May/10 with Dave P

David Qualtrough - May/10

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10

Tim Ducker - 2nd - 20/Apr/10

martinp - 2nd - 16/Apr/10 with Alan C

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Dan Simmonds, Martin Hore

DaNo123 - Lead - 07/Apr/10 with martin, Hanzler

petedunford183 - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/10

btc - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Susannah Ellis

James_86 - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Jacob

Looser than the guidebook said I think - fresh rock scars right at the start, near the loose block someone else mentioned and also on the finish. Hence fair at VS I think. Edit: on later inspection of fallen rock on the ground, it appears a large flake has come away from the first section.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with ah

Jacob k-d - Lead O/S - Feb/10

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 17/Sep/09 with Clare

RossT - Lead - 16/Aug/09

aged_ape - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd β - 25/Jul/09

Sam W - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Tom Bide

AlexDexter - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with anthony nichols

MikeC59 - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Dave Gale

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Jamie Ward

jamie ward - 2nd - 26/May/09 with Toby Dunford

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

five - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with TW

chrisjones199 - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hash Popat

Mark Batey - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hash Popat

hash - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Janette

brady - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/09 with Micky

Nice line. Watch out for the huge wobbly block at the begining of the finishing groove.
mickyconnor - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with steve

Great climb, rubbish anchor at the top unless you go all the way back. Worst bit is the descent - we missed the path back to the crag and were fumbling through the woods for an hour or so!
FayeG - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Netty

BenTiffin - Lead - 20/Feb/09 with Ellen Wolfenden

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/09 with Jonboy

martinazando - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Al Benson

al99 - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Al Benson

lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/08 with Sam Smith, Greg Pittam

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/08

An entertaining and sustained outing that definitely felt harder than HS. Plenty of moves and variety make this route deserve its stars.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd - 10/Aug/08 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08

PhillipG - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Roger

freemanTom - Lead - Jun/08 with Jenny Watson

JimBee - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Ian Whitehead

Piers - Lead β - 20/May/08 with Charlie Goldblatt

DannyK - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/08 with pep

My Gravity - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Ben P

haydng - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/08 with Rachel

deklan - Lead - Feb/08

Split the climb into 2 at the big tree. Less rope drag and more gear for the top pitch. (It eats gear.) Very loose block on the top. Good route.
Matt Tranter - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/07 with Jen Edwards

Jen79 - 2nd - 23/Oct/07 with Matt Tranter

Urgles - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/07 with David Elder

120 ft steep single pitch, requiring protection all the way. I ran short after half way and finished using anything I could find as extenders. Very nice route, good quality rock. 11 months later I climbed Papillon 'again', and found that the previous ascent wasn't Papillon at all, as it started from a different tree, lower on the left. It could have been Starfinder or Mustang. Definitely worth a return visit to try to make sense of it.
Humpty Dangler - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with John Ricketts

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Adrian Lowe

Circus - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/07 with Lou

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07

gareth r - Lead O/S - 20/May/07 with welsh kim

eagleopus - AltLd O/S - 20/May/07 with Martin

Ing - 2nd - 29/Apr/07 with Hal and James

halhorner - 2nd - 29/Apr/07 with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson

Be careful of loose rock at top.
leigh - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Russ Riseborough

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/07

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - Feb/07 with Dunks

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/07

Prompted by an email about the upcoming guidebook, I thought I'd pay another visit to work my way through the climbs I hadn't led.
drysori - Lead - 15/Sep/06 with PeteR

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Andy Graham

brady - 2nd - 07/Jun/06 with Martin Skinner

Jason Gotel - Lead O/S - May/06 with Pippa Lansdown

kyt341k - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Ben Freidland

Ybot Htulk - Lead - Mar/06 with Pete

timharrison - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/05 with Abi Marchent

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/03 with Clare

Little B - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/03

richardp2 - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/03 with Steve Fry

Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/01 with Og (Andrew Forbes)

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/01

alan moore - 2000

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/98 with Emma Day

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/97

mikej - Lead - 26/Jul/90 with Keith Edwards

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
catty_9, btinsen, Trevers, treforsouthwell, natlavender, fleapitfan, ron244, nchammer, Dassie, simon_williams6, Dax

Total votes cast 180
hard VS0 of 63
VS4 of 63
easy VS28 of 63
hard HS25 of 63
HS6 of 63
easy HS0 of 63
hard S0 of 63
S0 of 63
easy S0 of 63
hard 4c0 of 60
4c3 of 60
easy 4c15 of 60
hard 4b30 of 60
4b12 of 60
easy 4b0 of 60
hard 4a0 of 60
4a0 of 60
easy 4a0 of 60
3 Stars3 of 57
2 Stars34 of 57
1 Star16 of 57
0 Stars2 of 57
Bag of .....2 of 57
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U