Monmouthshire > Wyndcliffe >
 
Papillon** HS 4b

Adjacent Climbs
<< The Crack
 
Sundowner >>
[Minkles pulling hard, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye, A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe.

Photo: Minkles pulling hard © david03182
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 206 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Another route on LH crag which is hard for grade. I wanted my friend who is new to trad climbing to lead this. Luckily he refused it otherwise it could be a tough battle for him. Not really 2 *
Chris Sieradzki - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with dale.young

petersheppard - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with joe gallacher

Nice route , think i took the rh crack in error ,,,bloody hard error...no harm done , good value for its grade.
joe gallacher - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Peter Sheppard, Allan Green

dale.young - 2nd - 20/Jul/14 with Chris sieradzki

Garbage. Torturous route finding, grease, dirt and half of the Wye valley vegetation growing out of it. A pair of garden shears would have of more use than a gear rack. Two stars??? Two piles of steamy poo.
Pike - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Mark Condon

Hidden - 29/Jun/14

brian watson - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with scott titt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

Rob84 - AltLd rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin

p1
cjohn62 - AltLd - 08/Jun/14 with gareth

JClimb - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Stuart MacLachlin

stujamac - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Jenny Yate

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

Didn't have a guidebook but it looks like this is what I climbed, which is good because it was what I was aiming for. The route finding was tortuous but following the line of least resistance got me there in the end. Quite sustained but plenty of rest and plenty of gear so I think fair enough for HS, especially given the grading on right crag.
squicky - Lead - 17/May/14

Nice evening climbing with Alec Roberts
SteveJB - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/14

JonnyFawell - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/14

Good route with plenty of descent climbing. Hard for the grade.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Anna Kennedy

annak - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Lee Harrison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14

fuzzysheep01 - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Andy Armstrong

A great lead from Felix.
AndrewP - 2nd - 10/Mar/14 with FelixPeterken

Quite hard, but liked it. Can be a bit tricky navigating.
FelixPeterken - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14 with Andrew Peterken

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Nick Russell

Pretty sure we went a different way to my first time on this. Good climb on a sunny day.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/14 with Alastair Begley, Emily

Another good route, although Owen struggled somewhat on the moves in the middle and shouted a lot.
67hours - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Oweeeen

sheelba - 2nd - 01/Mar/14

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Angus McBride, Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - 2nd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Angus McBride, Will Benfold

Hidden - 2014

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/13

islandlynx - Lead O/S - Sep/13 with Amy

MD - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Jo

Lost the will to climb at the top section and the strength to haul the ropes up any further. The most bewildering route finding exercise yet.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Mike D

fishinwater - Lead - 07/Aug/13 with Chris W

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/13

mullermn - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Monkey

A satisfying line, but the climbing doesn't flow particularly nicely.
Monk - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Andy A, Kylie, Luke

2 sets of hexes useful.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with Ben

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 15/May/13 with Peter

Not as nice as billed
Eoinparker - 2nd O/S - 12/May/13 with Hassen Bali

Exposed in parts, satisfying to finish.
HassenBali - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Eoin Parker

p3tersen - 2nd - 12/May/13 with Brad Hopkins

madguernseyboy - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Neil Nand, Lucy Plowman

lgp81 - 2nd dnf - 27/Apr/13 with Neil Nand, Brendan Gill

Gavdee1 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

Excellent. Split in to two pitches as some of it was a bit damp and I didn't fancy the stretch in nearly 40m of rope if I came off near the top. 4a and 4b moves all the way.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Ric

bonelessivar - 2nd - 15/Feb/13 with Alan

haz rudry - 2nd - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Kyuzo - 01/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

Deary65 - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Pero - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/12

Gareth T - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Amber

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

Got up first crack and halfway up the second before my arms gave out. It's all there but has some exposed moves.
localboy - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/12 with Simon C

Dark. Led to get Mike's gear back, then got rope stuck after abseil.
simonf - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/12 with Simon, Mike

timreynolds - Lead - 19/Aug/12

Two pitches, long absail.
Jonners - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Great cimbing, quite exposed.
Country_Boy - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Anton

Maybe started on the Crack and finished on Papillon, great climb any how!!
colinthomson5 - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with John Hillman

klo1981 - 2nd dog - 27/May/12 with Iain

TR909 - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

climbingchippie - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Katie Brown

well, crackillon more like. Good route still though
PaulWatson - 2nd rpt - 22/May/12 with Tony, Rosy

jdgaventa - Lead - 05/May/12 with katy

Better split into 2 pitches, or take a ton of gear
steveprice.exmouth - Lead - 23/Apr/12 with Ellie Woods

Sarah Welsh - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Emma Grant

EllieWoods - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Steve Price

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/12

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Sonya

Just too knackered after 'Cadillac'
Phil Layton - AltLd dnf - 25/Mar/12 with Justin B

pad-rat - 2012

Hidden - 2012

This is not an HS. Committing and serious. Needs a strong lead. cold and Windy November day may have made it feel worse.
98%monkey - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Nicki

Mistee - 2nd β - 26/Nov/11 with Phil

Split into 2 pitches. As the consensus suggests, hard in the grade
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Oct/11

Stays dry in rain with strong enough westerlies!
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11 with Andy B

unusual, fun.
jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Emily Cropton

Emily Cropton - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with Jon Ridley

andy dunn - 2nd - 27/Aug/11 with Big Ben, J

martin one - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Neil Nand

Good climb that's worth doing. Some rocks are a little bit lose though. Maybe slightly harder than most HS but not by to much.
ElBarto - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Martin Lennon

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/11 with Emma Hawkins

Not sure I found the correct start of this. What I climbed was dirty and vegetated at the start, clearly not worth any stars
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Simon Berring, Emma Grant

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Blue68 - 25/Jun/11

Found it hard for the grade although there is plenty of gear if you can be bothered to drag enough up with you.
grumpyoldjanner - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Matt 'Bungle' Larkins

Great climb, last 20m is really good. Done in 2 pitches on first of AMC regular Wednesday evening climbs.
Deano100 - 2nd - 25/May/11

JamieTown - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Angus Mckendrick

Long pitch, high in the grade with several 4b sections, but good rests and gear so HS seems the right grade. Take hexes and plenty of draws (I used 13 runners and could easily have put more in).
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 24/Apr/11 with Ivan Bicknell

Gregthebadger - 2nd - 07/Apr/11

more like a VS, exit groove is sustained...
alexanderjwatts - Lead - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Tim Sparrow - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Garron - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/10

JenDurden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with John Tanner

HS 4b? I suppose possibly, but I've definitely climbed a number of VS climbs that are a similar standard
James Moyle - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/10 with piers cunliffe

d_meacher - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Lucy Rouse, Jess patel

Becky C - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Duncan

Hard for the grade.Led as 2 pitches.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Tim

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Keith

felt hard for the grade.. maybe because I haven't climbed outside for a wee while. Lovely day!
gilbert - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Jonathan Percival

gripped01 - 2nd - Aug/10 with Gilbert

muttley_109 - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Gary Lewis

Started up what might have been the Crack, but was loose and dirty, so finished up this. Pretty good climb I thought, but tough for HS.
Rob Exile Ward - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Sam Ward

martinp - 2nd - 11/Jul/10 with Adam

AdamP - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Martin

martinp - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with IanH

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/10

wilchivs - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with Liv Pearson

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Al Franks

Stunning climb, best lead to date and harder than any VS I have led. Very steep for an HS, long, varied, sustained and really makes you think. Good rock and well protected provided you take loads of big gear and long runners.
PaulWatson - Lead O/S - 13/May/10 with Dave P

David Qualtrough - May/10

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10

Tim Ducker - 2nd - 20/Apr/10

martinp - 2nd - 16/Apr/10 with Alan C

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Dan Simmonds, Martin Hore

DaNo123 - Lead - 07/Apr/10 with martin, Hanzler

petedunford183 - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/10

btc - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Susannah Ellis

James_86 - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Jacob

Looser than the guidebook said I think - fresh rock scars right at the start, near the loose block someone else mentioned and also on the finish. Hence fair at VS I think. Edit: on later inspection of fallen rock on the ground, it appears a large flake has come away from the first section.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with ah

Jacob k-d - Lead O/S - Feb/10

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 17/Sep/09 with Clare

RossT - Lead - 16/Aug/09

aged_ape - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd β - 25/Jul/09

Sam W - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Tom Bide

AlexDexter - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with anthony nichols

MikeC59 - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Dave Gale

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Jamie Ward

jamie ward - 2nd - 26/May/09 with Toby Dunford

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

five - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with TW

chrisjones199 - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hash Popat

Mark Batey - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Hash Popat

hash - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Janette

brady - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/09 with Micky

Nice line. Watch out for the huge wobbly block at the begining of the finishing groove.
mickyconnor - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with steve

Great climb, rubbish anchor at the top unless you go all the way back. Worst bit is the descent - we missed the path back to the crag and were fumbling through the woods for an hour or so!
FayeG - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Netty

BenTiffin - Lead - 20/Feb/09 with Ellen Wolfenden

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/09 with Jonboy

martinazando - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Al Benson

al99 - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Al Benson

lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/08 with Sam Smith, Greg Pittam

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/08

An entertaining and sustained outing that definitely felt harder than HS. Plenty of moves and variety make this route deserve its stars.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd - 10/Aug/08 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08

PhillipG - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Roger

freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - Jun/08 with Jenny Watson

JimBee - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Ian Whitehead

Piers - Lead β - 20/May/08 with Charlie Goldblatt

DannyK - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/08 with pep

My Gravity - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Ben P

haydng - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/08 with Rachel

deklan - Lead - Feb/08

Split the climb into 2 at the big tree. Less rope drag and more gear for the top pitch. (It eats gear.) Very loose block on the top. Good route.
Matt Tranter - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/07 with Jen Edwards

Jen79 - 2nd - 23/Oct/07 with Matt Tranter

The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/07 with David Elder

120 ft steep single pitch, requiring protection all the way. I ran short after half way and finished using anything I could find as extenders. Very nice route, good quality rock. 11 months later I climbed Papillon 'again', and found that the previous ascent wasn't Papillon at all, as it started from a different tree, lower on the left. It could have been Starfinder or Mustang. Definitely worth a return visit to try to make sense of it.
Humpty Dangler - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with John Ricketts

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Adrian Lowe

Circus - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/07 with Lou

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07

gareth r - Lead O/S - 20/May/07 with welsh kim

eagleopus - AltLd O/S - 20/May/07 with Martin

Ing - 2nd - 29/Apr/07 with Hal and James

halhorner - 2nd - 29/Apr/07 with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson

Be careful of loose rock at top.
leigh - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Russ

dave657 - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/07 with mel_1

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/07

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - Feb/07 with Dunks

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/07

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/06

simonw1 - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Andy Graham

brady - 2nd - 07/Jun/06 with Martin Skinner

Jason Gotel - Lead O/S - May/06 with Pippa Lansdown

kyt341k - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Ben Freidland

Ybot Htulk - Lead - Mar/06 with Pete

timharrison - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/05 with Abi Marchent

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/03 with Clare

Little B - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/03

Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/01 with Og (Andrew Forbes)

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/01

alan moore - 2000

Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/98 with Emma Day

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/97

mikej - Lead - 26/Jul/90 with Keith Edwards

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, fleapitfan, Hidden, ron244, nchammer, Dassie, simon_williams6, Hidden, Dax

Voting
Total votes cast 154
hard VS0 of 53
VS3 of 53
easy VS25 of 53
hard HS19 of 53
HS6 of 53
easy HS0 of 53
hard S0 of 53
S0 of 53
easy S0 of 53
hard 4c0 of 51
4c2 of 51
easy 4c14 of 51
hard 4b24 of 51
4b11 of 51
easy 4b0 of 51
hard 4a0 of 51
4a0 of 51
easy 4a0 of 51
3 Stars3 of 50
2 Stars30 of 50
1 Star13 of 50
0 Stars2 of 50
Bag of .....2 of 50
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead112 of 206 (54.4%)
Followed74 of 206 (35.9%)
Alt Leads5 of 206 (2.4%)
Unknown15 of 206 (7.3%)

'Climbed'68 of 206 (33.0%)
clean O/S124 of 206 (60.2%)
clean β3 of 206 (1.5%)
clean rpt6 of 206 (2.9%)
dogged2 of 206 (1.0%)
dnf3 of 206 (1.5%)