Friends* VS 5a

Rockfax Description
A steep and direct line that has some interesting moves. Start at the base of the red stained corner.
1) 5a, 28m. Climb to the overhang and pass it using a crack. Continue up the steep cracks above to a ledge in the gully.
2) 4c, 18m. Move up onto a block and climb the steep wall above it to a ledge. Move left, and then climb to the summit of the pinnacle. Abseil off. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

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This climb is in 40 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

daxtari - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15

Luke led p1 felt a little stiff for the grade but very well protected, I lead p2 and abbed of some dubious tat from the top the route could do with a new mallion
Wendy Watthews - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Luke

lukegorman - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Wendy Matthews

cem - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/15 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - Lead β - 05/Apr/15 with Charles Moreton

Possibly the hardest VS I've ever done!
Slick - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with Rick Sewards

Guy Lowndes - 2nd - 25/Aug/13 with alan Blanchflower

Escaped leftwards at the top of the crack. Nice steep wall on P2.
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Guy Lowndes

Brian H - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/13 with Kafoozalem

Got so pumped. Really hard climb.
bazthomas - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Paul (BMC)

clean this time. Still hard though.
Dilwat - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Tom M

could have possibly cleaned this if on a top rope but burned out while trying to remove some cams that had walked into their cracks,was so engrossed in the climbing that at one moment when i was right on my limit with my hands slipping on a exposed layback that i forgot i was on a rope and thought i was about to take my last fall ,started to hyperventilate ,had to wedge knees and arms into the crack and calm myself down.
whiteexplorer - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Dilwat

P1 only
Joemanglerocks - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Baz

Much harder than It's neighbouring route "Nothing much"
TommyC - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Andy SDMC

Sarah Welsh - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Nick Donohue

superb climbing, hard for VS, very sustained
nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/12 with Sarah Welsh

Felt very sustained on second. Nice moves but I felt hard for the grade.
Joel Perkin - 2nd - 05/Aug/12 with Tim Taylor, Simon Hammond

What an absolute gem of a route! Sustained is another word that comes to mind :o)
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Gareth Greeves

Sustained after the first roof, best to keep moving. Climbed with Joel Perkin and Tim Taylor. Great route.
simonhammond1966 - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

gg4419 - 2nd O/S - Aug/12

Created some kind of weird impossible to free rope jam with a krab and two nuts just below the top moves so blew the onsight. Agree with the other comments, sustained once you are past the first overhang and more like HVS. Lost some skin jamming.
Dilwat - Lead dog - 04/May/12 with Pete, SurferStan

SurferStan - 2nd - 04/May/12 with Dilwat

Really pumpy, felt harder than Nothing Much next door
francois - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Chris

Felt more like a HVS: the layback is nice, but it is very sustained with few places to rest!
BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Francois

steep, failed to lead 2nd pitch, ran out of steam at horizontal break
DanLear - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with Andy Pemberton

with Dan. 1st pitch pumpy -felt a lot more like HVS 5a but I was unfit at the time!
andy_pemberton - Lead - Sep/11

Trickier as wet!
Dizz - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with Richard S

Led p1: Take care to place good pro before starting the first roof... sustained jamming (or laybacking) is to follow. HVS, 5a in my book! P2 is no pushover either!!
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/11 with Andy Peasgood

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09

This was a great route to end a great weekend. The first pitch was tough,more like a HVS ,I had a full on pump just before the second overhang,lead it clean and well happy.
Popkids - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Kafoozalem

took 2 proper lead falls, one from just above the initial roof, the second from just under the second roof. Rested on gear on the second pitch too. Very sustained climbing, but protection is good :)
Kirill - Lead dog - 12/Apr/09 with Gareth

Kyuzo - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Hal Watts

hal - Jun/06

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 27/Feb/05 with Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/04

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/04 with wilko, sven hassle, will woodhead, jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - Apr/03 with Rupert Holbrook

cem - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/00 with Graham Dolman

colin milton - AltLd - 15/Apr/95 with eric milton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Master Chief, Mayo

Total votes cast 55
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS1 of 19
easy HVS16 of 19
hard VS2 of 19
VS0 of 19
easy VS0 of 19
hard HS0 of 19
HS0 of 19
easy HS0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
hard 5a1 of 18
5a17 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
hard 4c0 of 18
4c0 of 18
easy 4c0 of 18
3 Stars2 of 18
2 Stars16 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat