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Friends* VS 5a

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A steep and direct line that has some interesting moves. Start at the base of the red stained corner.. 1) 5a, 28m. Climb to the overhang and pass it using a crack. Continue up the steep cracks above to a ledge in the gully.. 2) 4c, 18m. Move up onto a block and climb the steep wall above it to a ledge. Move left, and then climb to the summit of the pinnacle. Abseil off. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/13

Got so pumped. Really hard climb.
bazthomas - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Paul (BMC)

clean this time. Still hard though.
Dilwat - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Tom M

could have possibly cleaned this if on a top rope but burned out while trying to remove some cams that had walked into their cracks,was so engrossed in the climbing that at one moment when i was right on my limit with my hands slipping on a exposed layback that i forgot i was on a rope and thought i was about to take my last fall ,started to hyperventilate ,had to wedge knees and arms into the crack and calm myself down.
whiteexplorer - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Dilwat

P1 only
Joemanglerocks - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Baz

Much harder than It's neighbouring route "Nothing much"
TommyC - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Andy SDMC

Sarah Welsh - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Nick Donohue

Felt very sustained on second. Nice moves but I felt hard for the grade.
Joel Perkin - 2nd - 05/Aug/12 with Tim Taylor, Simon Hammond

What an absolute gem of a route! Sustained is another word that comes to mind :o)
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Gareth Greeves

Sustained after the first roof, best to keep moving. Climbed with Joel Perkin and Tim Taylor. Great route.
simonhammond1966 - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12

gg4419 - 2nd O/S - Aug/12

Created some kind of weird impossible to free rope jam with a krab and two nuts just below the top moves so blew the onsight. Agree with the other comments, sustained once you are past the first overhang and more like HVS. Lost some skin jamming.
Dilwat - Lead dog - 04/May/12 with Pete, SurferStan

SurferStan - 2nd - 04/May/12 with Dilwat

Really pumpy, felt harder than Nothing Much next door
francois - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Chris

Felt more like a HVS: the layback is nice, but it is very sustained with few places to rest!
BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Francois

steep, failed to lead 2nd pitch, ran out of steam at horizontal break
DanLear - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with Andy Pemberton

with Dan. 1st pitch pumpy -felt a lot more like HVS 5a but I was unfit at the time!
andy_pemberton - Lead - Sep/11

Trickier as wet!
Dizz - Lead - 19/Jun/11 with Richard S

Led p1: Take care to place good pro before starting the first roof... sustained jamming (or laybacking) is to follow. HVS, 5a in my book! P2 is no pushover either!!
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/11 with Andy Peasgood

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/10

Sustained enough to warrant HVS. A superb route. You may need to abandon a krab or maillon to abseil off the pinnacle if you do the top pitch.
Kafoozalem - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Tony Hopkins

This was a great route to end a great weekend. The first pitch was tough,more like a HVS ,I had a full on pump just before the second overhang,lead it clean and well happy.
Popkids - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Pete Saunders

took 2 proper lead falls, one from just above the initial roof, the second from just under the second roof. Rested on gear on the second pitch too. Very sustained climbing, but protection is good :)
Kirill - Lead dog - 12/Apr/09 with Gareth

Kyuzo - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Hal Watts

hal - Jun/06

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 27/Feb/05 with Nic Dill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/04

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/04 with wilko, sven hassle, will woodhead, jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - Apr/03 with Rupert Holbrook

cem - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/00 with Graham Dolman

colin milton - AltLd - 15/Apr/95 with eric milton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 49
hard HVS0 of 17
HVS0 of 17
easy HVS15 of 17
hard VS2 of 17
VS0 of 17
easy VS0 of 17
hard HS0 of 17
HS0 of 17
easy HS0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a1 of 16
5a15 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
hard 4c0 of 16
4c0 of 16
easy 4c0 of 16
3 Stars1 of 16
2 Stars15 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead15 of 31 (48.4%)
Followed12 of 31 (38.7%)
Alt Leads3 of 31 (9.7%)
Unknown1 of 31 (3.2%)

'Climbed'10 of 31 (32.3%)
clean O/S14 of 31 (45.2%)
clean rpt2 of 31 (6.5%)
dogged5 of 31 (16.1%)