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Ticklists
Cairngorm Winter Climbs , Winter 2018/19 , The far too large and ambitious list of things I want to do in winter , Get sendy winter 24 , PTRICKY's Inspo (Winter)
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| masa-alpin | 27 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax-app guide says "A steep corner (crux) with a helpful spike". It is not a "corner" but a gully. Although I spotted a rock spike (with an in-situ sling on), I didn't think I could reach (cheatingly) the in-situ sling with my axe, let alone the spike itself while I was climbing – I expect it should be always the case unless there was 1-metre of firm snow, in which case I guess the section would be grade I or II and wouldn't be the crux. Perplexing. At least, the spike is a good indicater of the section. The 2007 SMC definitive guide "Cairngorms" says this route is 130 metres long, but it was about 200 metres. Note that we started the climb just below the first ice section (grade II/III on this day's condition), after soloing up a steep snow slope). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax-app guide says "A steep corner (crux) with a helpful spike". It is not a "corner" but a gully. Although I spotted a rock spike (with an in-situ sling on), I didn't think I could reach (cheatingly) the in-situ sling with my axe, let alone the spike itself while I was climbing – I expect it should be always the case unless there was 1-metre of firm snow, in which case I guess the section would be grade I or II and wouldn't be the crux. Perplexing. At least, the spike is a good indicater of the section. The 2007 SMC definitive guide "Cairngorms" says this route is 130 metres long, but it was about 200 metres. Note that we started the climb just below the first ice section (grade II/III on this day's condition), after soloing up a steep snow slope). |
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| Benny1612 | 16 Mar, 2024 |
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βeta: Cracking, definitely worth doing, different beast compared to yday. scuttled away before the winds kicked up. Saw some slides on goat track | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cracking, definitely worth doing, different beast compared to yday. scuttled away before the winds kicked up. Saw some slides on goat track |
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| AliBaxter | 17 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: A few football size blocks completely loose on this, particularly second pitch after exit from spiral. Just a note to take care not to shower them into spiral gully. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A few football size blocks completely loose on this, particularly second pitch after exit from spiral. Just a note to take care not to shower them into spiral gully. |
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Route of Interest
Western Route (Winter)
Grade: IV 6 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan)