Cornwall > Roche Rock >
 
Shorty's Folly* VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Shorty's Folly Variation Finish
 
Vastus medialis >>
[Just about to top out on Shorty's, 2 kb]14m. A bold and exciting climb on superb holds that requires a confident approach. Start at the toe of a ramp below the steep pocketed wall. 18m. Climb up the ramp for a few metres and then swing up onto the wall on a good pocket and use the crack on the left, close to the arete, to move up to more good holds at mid-height. Finish steeply up the central crack-line on yet more good holds. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Just about to top out on Shorty's © skinnyarms
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 116 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/14

Gear is pretty shocking - 2 micro wires and 2 cams...in holes! Did find a thread half way up. Good last climb of the day.
snook - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with V

Nice end of the day route, at least on the second. Hard to place gear on!
Valentine - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14 with Alex Cox

guy757 - 17/May/14

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 01/May/14 with Richard

Luxulyan - 2nd - 01/May/14 with Sophie

jbclimb - 2nd - 2014 with Richard Hudson

Hidden - Lead - 16/Nov/13

Hidden - TR dog - 01/Nov/13

Hidden - TR - 14/Sep/13

BethanWhite - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Aeron

A Walker - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/13

Jackislav - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13

chrisweight - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Jackislav

shunt
Matthew Robinson - Solo - 03/Aug/13

Great route felt very HVS after 4 days climbing. 4c Is fair but gear is hard to place and falling form the top would see u take a massive lob!!
Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13

AndyF - Lead - 18/Jul/13 with Ian G

Binder - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Dave J, JT

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/13

Very very very cold . Smiling at the top .which is a good indication of a nice climb :-)
mike hooper - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/13 with john martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - Oct/12 with Kev Brown

Couple of cheeky moves but nice, will be back to lead it...
neilstubbs - TR O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Treve Hosken

Danny_boulders - 2nd - Sep/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 31/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12

lottiec - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/12 with Mikey P

Matt Amos - TR O/S - 04/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/12

JamesGibson - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with ToddB

ToddB - 2nd - 11/Jun/12 with James

sputnik - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

sam0000 - Lead rpt - Jun/12

paddymitton - Lead - Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/May/12

gingerking - Lead O/S - May/12 with James Hadley

really good route to finish the day. would make a great solo, holds are all mega. i'd say HVS as the gear is sparse. can't see there being a better route at the crag.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Kit Perry

orangejames - 2nd - 02/Apr/12

Great climb, really positive holds but gear is awkward to place and runout, especially at top hence why HVS is probably right.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Jack Fellows, Jen Jones

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12

carlgodfrey - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with rose394

HVS in West Country Climbs, I agree, Great Route though...
ewanthomson - Lead O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Steve Salisbury

Spearos - Lead rpt - 07/Feb/12 with Mike

arandall - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd - 05/Feb/12 with arandall

jackc - TR O/S - 04/Jan/12 with jordon

extremejim - Lead - 17/Nov/11 with Dan

J.Hine - 2nd - 25/Oct/11

pow22 - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Andrei Gnepp

watch out for the water filled hold half way up,good fun super sharp rock
whiteexplorer - TR O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Dilwat

migs493 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11

pete3685 - Solo O/S - 03/Aug/11

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Kirsty Kerr

SamChessell - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Dave Grant

robroy - Jul/11

Good route, HVS though.
Chris Ellyatt - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Craig Potter

JonHarvey - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/May/11

amyb - 2nd - 10/May/11 with Jon Smith, Rubber boy Kev

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

Harder than Lord Falmouth, needs a steady head.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

a hard vs
dale1968 - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - TR - 28/Mar/11

climbhannahclimb - TR - Mar/11

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/11 with Darren

First few moves on wall tough for grade, finished up the arete from mid-height on poor gear.
Spearos - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Kenny

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with tj murry

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 2011

tim20 - 2011

mark_jee - 2nd - 2011 with Vicky

Hidden - 2011

vickytee - TR dnf - 2011 with Mark

Adam_Jones - 22/Nov/10

jakenichol - Lead - 06/Nov/10

Dave Heaton - 2nd - 06/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/10

Excellent climb. Would be tough at VS, a bit sustained with tricky to place gear.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Pete

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/10

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/10

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Liv, Barry

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with jim, liv_the_div

Freddie 1 - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Andyh83

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/10

Ashhampson - TR O/S - 07/Apr/10

dubs123 - Apr/10

Ice Axe Arrest - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - 25/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09

Sophieeee - TR - 01/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/09

mistaken for diff until past crux.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/08 with stefan

Stefan_Morris - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/08

JordanH - TR - 05/Aug/08

Dilwat - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Surferstan, Alex, Bart

SurferStan - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/08 with Bart, Alex, Dilwat

Master Chief - TR O/S - 19/Feb/08 with Jeremy

ashskett - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/08 with Craig

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/07

Marti999 - Solo O/S - 12/Oct/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2007

dickjonesocp - 2007 with al

Stuie - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/06 with James Hoskin

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/04

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/02

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Jun/99 with Lee Bartrop

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DaveGoesClimbing, mark stephenson, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 88
hard HVS0 of 32
HVS3 of 32
easy HVS25 of 32
hard VS1 of 32
VS3 of 32
easy VS0 of 32
hard HS0 of 32
HS0 of 32
easy HS0 of 32
hard 5a0 of 30
5a0 of 30
easy 5a5 of 30
hard 4c3 of 30
4c22 of 30
easy 4c0 of 30
hard 4b0 of 30
4b0 of 30
easy 4b0 of 30
3 Stars13 of 26
2 Stars8 of 26
1 Star5 of 26
0 Stars0 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 116 (4.3%)
Lead57 of 116 (49.1%)
Followed34 of 116 (29.3%)
Toproped13 of 116 (11.2%)
Unknown7 of 116 (6.0%)

'Climbed'37 of 116 (31.9%)
clean O/S72 of 116 (62.1%)
clean rpt3 of 116 (2.6%)
dogged3 of 116 (2.6%)
dnf1 of 116 (0.9%)