Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
A slight eliminate. Climb the shallow groove just left of the arete. Where it ends, gain Autophobia at its final few moves. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The grade is wrong its only HS ( you have Catapaphobia as HS is that not the VS ) Also it does not
Enough gear to top of corner and then run out until near top. Not a HS to climb if your only just starting to tick off HS. There are harder HS in N Wales than this one.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mmd | 15 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: It does say bold after groove in ground up guide, but its quite run out from half way up. No a lead for a HS leader. Also the VS grade is well overgraded. Ground up and rock fax have different graded for these routes. This is more like HS | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: It does say bold after groove in ground up guide, but its quite run out from half way up. No a lead for a HS leader. Also the VS grade is well overgraded. Ground up and rock fax have different graded for these routes. This is more like HS |
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| THE.WALRUS | 9 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can't really recommend this route unless you wait until highish-tide and treat it as a deep water solo! There isn't any useful protection to be found in the upper section. I'm surprised this isn't mentioned in the (awful) Ground-Up guide. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can't really recommend this route unless you wait until highish-tide and treat it as a deep water solo! There isn't any useful protection to be found in the upper section. I'm surprised this isn't mentioned in the (awful) Ground-Up guide. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn
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Fisherman's Friend
Grade: HS 4a ***
(Porth Dafarch)