UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

18m. An eliminate rising rightwards traverse with little new climbing. Climb The Nose to the arĂȘte then turn the corner and traverse rightwards below the overhang. Step into the groove of Swings, step up, then immediately rightwards to a steep finish on jugs.

FA. Joe Mallia 27/May/2016.

Feedback

User Date Notes
tobyrhodes 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: What a great climb. An interesting and varied route, which steepens up on the second section (once around the arete). Need to be thoughtful about rope work and gear placement. Feels about mid-grade for VS 4c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a great climb. An interesting and varied route, which steepens up on the second section (once around the arete). Need to be thoughtful about rope work and gear placement. Feels about mid-grade for VS 4c
joemallia 27 May, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: I know it seems unlikely - a new worthwhile VS at the Popular End - but it has good independent climbing after reaching the arete. The traverse under the overhang leads to a crux step up followed by a steep juggy finish to the right of Swings. It's a journey and dithering leaves you pumped.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I know it seems unlikely - a new worthwhile VS at the Popular End - but it has good independent climbing after reaching the arete. The traverse under the overhang leads to a crux step up followed by a steep juggy finish to the right of Swings. It's a journey and dithering leaves you pumped.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 3
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Skylight

Grade: VS 4c ***
(High Tor)

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