UKC

18m. An eliminate rising rightwards traverse with little new climbing. Climb The Nose to the arĂȘte then turn the corner and traverse rightwards below the overhang. Step into the groove of Swings, step up, then immediately rightwards to a steep finish on jugs.

FA. Joe Mallia 27/May/2016.

Feedback

User Date Notes
tobyrhodes 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: What a great climb. An interesting and varied route, which steepens up on the second section (once around the arete). Need to be thoughtful about rope work and gear placement. Feels about mid-grade for VS 4c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a great climb. An interesting and varied route, which steepens up on the second section (once around the arete). Need to be thoughtful about rope work and gear placement. Feels about mid-grade for VS 4c
joemallia 27 May, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: I know it seems unlikely - a new worthwhile VS at the Popular End - but it has good independent climbing after reaching the arete. The traverse under the overhang leads to a crux step up followed by a steep juggy finish to the right of Swings. It's a journey and dithering leaves you pumped.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I know it seems unlikely - a new worthwhile VS at the Popular End - but it has good independent climbing after reaching the arete. The traverse under the overhang leads to a crux step up followed by a steep juggy finish to the right of Swings. It's a journey and dithering leaves you pumped.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
The Brain

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Curbar Edge)

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