42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the original free routes on the cliff, polished and with some spaced gear, but still well worthwhile.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner below the left-hand end of the big Castellan roof, taking care with suspect rock. This is also the approach pitch to the cave.
2) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack above then move right and up to gain the chimney. Finish up this. Be aware of loose blocks on this pitch, a result of some severe winters. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1957. Climbed during a time when free climbing on limestone was rare.

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

chris smith 30/Oct Lead O/S
Sarah Brookes 24/Aug 2nd O/S
Andy Chubb 09/Aug 2nd O/S

Lead by John. Done as a ' Onner'. Good climb . A touch of polish

with Dave Rickerby, John Keska
mikestr555 09/Aug AltLd

lead first pitch

Tommy Moore 08/Aug AltLd O/S

P1, Ash didn't like P2.

with Ash Sayers, Conor Salisbury
Ash Sayers ?/Aug Lead O/S
kez1 ?/Jul -
with Andrew Boardman
JEP 25/Jun Lead O/S
with Jules
Jules Lane 25/Jun 2nd O/S

With injured elbow after falling and failing on Original Route. Very good P2.

with Jonathon Prager
keith leonard ?/Jun -
callumbtaylor 25/Apr 2nd
Steven1993 25/Apr Lead O/S

Lead both pitches in one. First pitch, mostly an easy scramble. Second pitch a little trickier with some fun moves, was a little scary at the top, using two singles as doubles makes every move a lot of effort. Also, beware of jackdaws flying out of the chimney!

Paul Eckton 25/Apr Lead O/S
with steve read
Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr Lead O/S

Somewhat exciting polished crux for a VS

manwithacam 18/Apr 2nd

Didn't know it was a Joe Brown route, makes sense. Quite butch. A lot better than it looks from the bottom, very 3 dimensional.

with Joris
Russ ??/2015 Lead O/S

Did it in 1pitch. First half not very nice. Rest quite nice.

with sarah brookes
georgenvk 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
GStone 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
GrantB 27/Sep/14 AltLd
with Chuck Norris
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead
Dan3266 27/Sep/14 AltLd dog
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
AmyAmy 31/Aug/14 2nd
with Tom riddlesdell, islandlynx
TomRiddelsdell 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

islandlynx 30/Aug/14 -

Led v. Easy p1

Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 12/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Emma Hawkins
Palindrome 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
nige pacer 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Simon Pape
Hidden 01/Jul/14 2nd rpt
sillysquiggle 01/Jul/14 2nd
GermanAlex 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. An unremarkable first pitch is followed by a cracking second one, what a position! Who on earth would layback that thing? Jam it! VS climbing in an HVS position, the gear before the final moves is uninspiring.

with Dan
jon_gill1 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

great line but a pile of choss these days it seems!

with chris warby, ross garfoot
djones66 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Good climb but a sandbag at VS, due almost entirely to the ever-present polish on the top half. Nonetheless, an excellent line and sustained interest, and some good exposure on the top half. Not 3 stars, though - the loose and dirty first half, and the shine, mean its max 2 stars for me. Did it in one pitch with 50m ropes and there was just enough rope to reach a big belay tree,

with Stve mc D
dan_blair87 11/Jun/14 Lead

2nd Pitch

danny269 08/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Keir did P1 I followed through onto P2 Initially dry (not for Keir: skies opened just before reaching the off-width/chimney) Took 2 falls ~ most dramatic (3m ending head down)was at top of first section (flake crack) with v polished foot holds - second was just as rounding nose of chimney again v polished (1m)

with Keir
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
George.nunn1993 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 31/May/14 Lead O/S


the power 21/May/14 Lead O/S

felt harder than the grade did it in a 1er

crag_hopper_Jay 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Good climbing and plenty of gear. The flake is interesting and the off width above can be bridged, feels more exposed but easier than getting stuck in the crack. Worth doing in 1 pitch.

eburki1 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
rich.manterfield ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with George Nunn
Theeni 05/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Joseph lead pi 1 and I lead through. Craig and Luke came up pi 1 independently and then snaked up after Joe in a line of another 2 seconds!

with Joseph
jrccrosby 05/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Craig Shelley 05/Apr/14 2nd

All the action is in the 2nd pitch. Unfortunately, we got rained off after reaching the top. Excellent ab down though.

lukebowman551 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Joe Crosby, henry crosby, Craig Shelley
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 15/Mar/14 AltLd
richardashe 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Mark Jackson
Hidden 14/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mjackson ??/2014 AltLd
richardashe ??/2014 AltLd
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
Nick Clement 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hannes B 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Danny
simon1965 21/Sep/13 2nd
with dom
Dr Matt 12/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic. Was intimidated by various comments here which I unwisely read the day before, but it all went fine. Good gear when really needed, the polish did not distract too much, not what I'd call v.loose, superb position and optional super exciting ab off after (rightwards a bit of a way off a tree with in situ wire loop and Krab).

Mr. K 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lead as one pitch, felt hard for the grade and largely uninspiring on the gear front! Too dirty and loose for three stars in my opinion.

James Oswald 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
cathymiller 10/Aug/13 Lead dog

First leader fall - oh dear!

Jevans ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

andyjirvin 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great traditional climb, very polished in places. Lots of character and exposure. 1st pitch unfortunately chossy, 2nd pitch is a classic though. I led P2, Michal P1.

Chriswallis2 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
SGD 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Phill Mitch 03/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with bleggs
colin milton 02/Jun/13 2nd
with shaun l
jimbonfire 01/Jun/13 Lead
mrmattwright 12/May/13 Lead O/S

Spicy start to the season. Nesting bird flew between me and the cliff through my legs just as I was putting in gear above the crux. It's pretty polished and quite an adventurous VS. It's a classic Joe Brown route though. Roll out that fist jam!

with Adrian Fletcher
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
adie84 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
marcusdanger 17/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Rich Malcolm 27/Sep/12 Lead

P1 only

Wayne S 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S


Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd
Somerset swede basher 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Elliff
hotfeet 05/Sep/12 AltLd

Excellent route, but the polish is quite something.

with Austen Moulding
Joemanglerocks 02/Sep/12 AltLd

Lead P2

TimKnight 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 - Everyone loves laybacking up a polished wall?!

Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Tony Ryland 01/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead
Chi Cheng 06/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Done as 1 pitch. Very polished in parts; like ice skating.

Rachel Slater 06/Aug/12 2nd O/S


Olli-C 06/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Wooo polished layback and awkwards chimney :)

masa-alpin 05/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Lee P
Hidden 29/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
malteserEd 15/Jul/12 Lead
MikeDowsett 20/Jun/12 2nd
with Jeff Ingman
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
luke321 26/May/12 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
ojp 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Got the gardening pitch. Upper was horridly Polished

with Si
OliBangbala 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Ran it into one long pitch with relative ease.. Amazing route!! The crux is quite polished but i think it adds to the flavour.. lovely exposure on the crux/final moves.. Also quite hard for VS 4c! defo my favorate lead thus far :)

Bry 21/Mar/12 AltLd β
Matt Cooke 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P2

with Rosh
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
neilh ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
asmith37 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Andy Peak 1 24/Aug/11 -
with Arron Thacker
Hidden 22/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
gforce 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 24/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
TRFrost 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with T. Bullock, L. Nedevska
PeteH 15/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Fantastic despite (or because of?) the polished crux.

with John Cooper
rockjedi 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Borg
adi bryant 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very polished..

with Lee
davewsargent 08/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with andy
Matt Shepherd 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
chiverstom 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Alice
ambrooker 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Paul D Jones 02/Jun/11 Lead
with Jerome Gill
jiggerypokery 02/Jun/11 2nd dog
wishicud climbHVS 14/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

steady 1st pitch. good belay stance. Brilliant and exposed 2nd pitch. little polished but splendid. long walk off!!!

bigdan050 13/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead p2. loved it

with Tosh
migs493 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Bit wet in places and definitely not in three star condition!

with Paul W
rich_hw 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 25/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
BeccaSnowden 22/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Excellent route. Found the crack really hard and quite scary!

Reaver2k 22/Sep/10 AltLd
masa-alpin 19/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Brian Q
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
stephenhartley 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Little B 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 19/Jul/10 2nd O/S
five 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with AV
LittleClimbingMaria 02/Jul/10 -
twright180 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Mr Sparkle 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

led both pitches. I was a bit disappointed upon seeing the routes as its not much to look at, mainly due to the the first pitch being a bit vegetated in places (though its pretty solid despite what the guide says). However... although the 2nd pitch is extremely polished in one place the positions and climbing more than make up for that and average 1st pitch!! SUPERB blow my initial misgivings away!!!

with Pete aka Dad
Hidden 11/Jun/10 2nd rpt
masa-alpin 08/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Graeme lead P1 and I lead P2. The route was surprisingly dry after a prolonged rain lasting the whole day (even the A6 road surface was still wet when we arrived in the evening). P2 is very good, though P1 is rather vegetated. Probably the best VS limestone route I have ever done.

gb83 08/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

intended to do this as one pitch but backed off on the crack of P2. Far too plished for my liking and the exposure got to me. Good gear though. backed down to the big ledge and Masa lead P2 in good style. Good route but far too polished and tough at VS

with masa
tobydunford 02/Jun/10 2nd β
with Nick Sillum
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt
greenclimb 17/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Sarah
Hidden 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
wild_nomad 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch although I would recommend two just because of rope drag/weight. To the first stance was easy and not as loose as I expected. From there it gets very bold and scary (for a VS) although the holds are mostly pretty good for hands. It is quite polished but not as bad as some of the reports I've been reading. I jammed, bridged, and laybacked my way up the crux as it is a bit too polished for a full commiting layback. It is a very worth while climb that I would recommend, but perhaps not 3 stars.

with Tom
Pown 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
GF ??/2010 -
fatblacktone ??/2010 Lead dog
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
Cat Hendrie ??/2010 AltLd

Lead Pitch 1

Hidden 24/Sep/09 2nd O/S
gazfellows 15/Jun/09 Lead
with shaun d
natalie28 09/Jun/09 AltLd

I lead the first pitch (4b) and Rik lead the second(4c)....which is extremely polished!! This was by far the hardest climb iv ever done, i was petrified, but it was amazing!!

with Rik
Sam1991 28/May/09 2nd

I guess for some reason its a good route, but its like a bar of soap on the layback (crux?). Lead last year, probably never again, but not a bad intro to the crag for Mark.

with Andy J and Mark
mark20 28/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2, brilliant

bigdrew 28/May/09 2nd
miastacey 10/May/09 Lead O/S

Done as 1 pitch

with Bob Smith
matthewjc ?/May/09 AltLd
with Andy
Andy Peak 1 22/Apr/09 Lead

The best vs so far

with Gary ordish matt olson
Misha 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great climb, fantastic exposure at VS, just marred slightly by the polish on the groove above the mid-way belay (crux I think).

cem 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Led both pitches in one

chiverstom 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Great climb. Recommend jamming (not layback) the crack due to high level of polish (with Mark/ Rosa).

with Rosa, Mark Mercer
Hidden 14/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
rurp ??/2009 Lead O/S
Alfredo 27/Sep/08 Lead β
with Ben H
geddicakes 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Polished!! Nice area. Bit of a mission to get to.

with Matthew Parkin
danm 14/Sep/08 AltLd
with Sion
b.hayley ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Sam1991 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Polished...really doesnt do it justice! Layback crack is like glass. Place something bomber and just go for it. good holds await!

with Matt
Matt Fry 14/Jul/08 Lead β
mic_b 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S

First climb ever that I thoroughly did not enjoy. Brilliant position but way too much ploish wouldn't lead it again.

with Etienne
IanJackson 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Pretty goey at VS. larger hexs/cams would help, all over after the jamming crack start.

with Swain16
JDSwain 24/Jun/08 2nd

A shit route, far too polished to be fun, i started off leading then reversed back down, just not fun

Ian Parnell 16/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Jon Winter
Guy Wilson 10/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Rich Austin
philhilo ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
morganator 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Peter Folkman
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead O/S
timbanton ??/2008 -
Silum ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd, very tricky for VS due to polish. The layback flakes footholds are all polished so best to get a foot in the the crack, place gear, and run for the top! For those saying not fun due to the polish...your retarded, its still an awesome route...grow some balls and climb it

with Tom
AntiGrav ??/2008 -
Ian Broome 26/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 11/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 11/Sep/07 AltLd rpt

Led the second pitch - felt hard for the grade. The route was much better than I remember - spectacular positions

with Dave J
general 11/Aug/07 -
with Rampant
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 08/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Led the 2nd pitch

with Martin Hore
Jack Symmons ?/May/07 Lead
with Tom R
Whealiebob 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Feel guilty claiming that I did alternate leads as Terry led the main pitch. The first pitch, which I led is only worth Severe. Suberb route though and would probably get at least HVS if it was on Grit...

with Terry
Milne 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

did top 4c pitch, hardest, scariest, most physically and mentally demanding VS i have ever done. undergraded, but absoloutely awsome! also most of the gear is tough to place correctly.

with Dave
Nicos 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with rich mansfield
tom.e 25/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Danny
david morse 22/Apr/07 Lead

loose, shit gear, was not feeling the love

with oli walker
Hidden 21/Apr/07 AltLd
Whitt 15/Apr/07 AltLd dog
with Karl
dmoir 12/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Jon Moles
Hidden ??/2007 -
Ed Babs 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
bigphil 10/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Felt hard for Vs 4c and I'm not sure its worth its 3 stars. The first pitch is choss and the better top pitch, whilst there are lovely layback holds etc, just doesn't flow like a propoer 3 star route should.

with Toby
Hidden 04/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Budge 27/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Neil Botterill
mol 15/Apr/06 AltLd
with Timmy
Dave Bond 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Adrian Whitehall
Bry ??/2006 Lead
Sidekick ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/05 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Brown 24/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Jessika
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jul/04 AltLd
with Richard Bower
Phill Mitch ??/2003 Lead O/S
with john d
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
kato'sdad 20/May/01 Lead
RobSimmo 20/May/01 Lead O/S
steve prior ?/Apr/01 AltLd
with Rob B
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Jul/00 -

Polished as hell. Harder than the HVS's because of it.

with Harry...?
philb ??/2000 Lead
Roget 28/Aug/99 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
Carling 41 10/Aug/98 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Karen
Andy Say 04/Sep/94 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
daprince ?/Jul/94 Lead
Okecroak 29/Jun/93 AltLd
with M Mercy
Hidden 21/Apr/93 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
leathers 13/Dec/92 Lead O/S
with Martin Whittaker
marcoleptic 08/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Mel, Moley, Pete
Mick King 27/Jan/92 Lead
with Simon Walsh
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 -
Pete Ogden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
with barry maybank
Hidden 15/Aug/89 2nd β
Hidden 15/Aug/89 -
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/89 Lead

Though it was nearly 20 years ago when I did this route I still remember the jackdaw that flew out of the crack into my face. How I stayed on I don't know.

with Debbie Wilkinson
babymoac 21/May/89 Lead
with George
shark 28/Jun/86 Lead
with Chris M
Chris the Tall 28/Jun/86 2nd
eroica64 17/May/85 Lead O/S
with Burt Simmons
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
Hidden 10/Aug/84 2nd
malc 20/May/84 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/83 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/83 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/83 2nd
TonyF ??/1983 -
andybirtwistle 29/May/82 Lead
with Ian Kyle
charlesmfrench 08/May/82 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
Nic Robinson 01/Aug/81 Lead O/S
with Alice Hampton
Hidden ??/1981 -
Chris Terrey ??/1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
with Colin Binks
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Ken Taylor 20/Oct/79 AltLd
with Andy Bond
mike bridges 12/Aug/79 AltLd O/S

Pat led 1st pitch,me the 2nd.

with Ned, Pat Meeds
Nigel Bond 12/Jul/79 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Chris Ellis 04/Jun/79 2nd
with Martin Veale
tapley 12/May/79 Lead
with Alison Tapley
jcw ?/May/79 -
with Martin Harris
D Tempest ?/Jan/78 -
Rob Davies ?/Oct/77 Lead
with Simon Wheeler (CUMC)
Dave Musgrove 03/Jul/77 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
uphillnow ??/1976 AltLd

Had seconded in about 1968

with Al Bennett
Hidden 05/Sep/75 Lead
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
mikej 09/Dec/73 Lead
with E
Andy Edgar ??/1973 Lead
with Mick Hardwick
greenbuoy 26/Feb/72 Lead
with Bob Lister, Terry Taylor
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