Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
Skylight*** VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Armalite
 
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[Oo err, 3 kb]42m, 2 pitches. One of the original free routes on the cliff, polished and with some spaced gear, but still well worthwhile. 1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner below the left-hand end of the big Castellan roof, taking care with suspect rock. This is also the approach pitch to the cave. 2) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack above then move right and up to gain the chimney. Finish up this. Be aware of loose blocks on this pitch, a result of some severe winters. A hard alternative to pitch 2 is Armalite, E4 5c. Halfway up pitch 2 of Skylight, move left under some roofs. Climb a crack then move right around the overhang to a finishing groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1957. Climbed during a time when free climbing on limestone was rare.

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Oo err © rayash
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 239 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/14 with Emma Hawkins

nige pacer - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jul/14

Lead both pitches. An unremarkable first pitch is followed by a cracking second one, what a position! Who on earth would layback that thing? Jam it! VS climbing in an HVS position, the gear before the final moves is uninspiring.
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Dan

great line but a pile of choss these days it seems!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with chris warby, ross garfoot

Good climb but a sandbag at VS, due almost entirely to the ever-present polish on the top half. Nonetheless, an excellent line and sustained interest, and some good exposure on the top half. Not 3 stars, though - the loose and dirty first half, and the shine, mean its max 2 stars for me. Did it in one pitch with 50m ropes and there was just enough rope to reach a big belay tree,
djones66 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Stve mc D

2nd Pitch
dan_blair87 - Lead - 11/Jun/14

Keir did P1 I followed through onto P2 Initially dry (not for Keir: skies opened just before reaching the off-width/chimney) Took 2 falls ~ most dramatic (3m ending head down)was at top of first section (flake crack) with v polished foot holds - second was just as rounding nose of chimney again v polished (1m)
danny269 - AltLd dog - 08/Jun/14 with Keir

Hidden - Lead - Jun/14

George.nunn1993 - Lead O/S - Jun/14 with rich man

P1
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

felt harder than the grade did it in a 1er
the power - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with admackie

Good climbing and plenty of gear. The flake is interesting and the off width above can be bridged, feels more exposed but easier than getting stuck in the crack. Worth doing in 1 pitch.
crag_hopper_Jay - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

eburki1 - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

rich.manterfield - Lead O/S - May/14 with George Nunn

Joseph lead pi 1 and I lead through. Craig and Luke came up pi 1 independently and then snaked up after Joe in a line of another 2 seconds!
Theeni - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/14 with Joseph

jrccrosby - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/14 with Henry Crosby

All the action is in the 2nd pitch. Unfortunately, we got rained off after reaching the top. Excellent ab down though.
Craig Shelley - 2nd - 05/Apr/14 with Luke Bowman

lukebowman551 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/14 with Joe Crosby, henry crosby, Craig Shelley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - 15/Mar/14

richardashe - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Mark Jackson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

mjackson - AltLd - 2014 with richardashe

mike mo - 2014

Nick Clement - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with mandy clement

Hannes B - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with Danny

simon1965 - 2nd - 21/Sep/13 with dom

Fantastic. Was intimidated by various comments here which I unwisely read the day before, but it all went fine. Good gear when really needed, the polish did not distract too much, not what I'd call v.loose, superb position and optional super exciting ab off after (rightwards a bit of a way off a tree with in situ wire loop and Krab).
Dr Matt - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/13

Lead as one pitch, felt hard for the grade and largely uninspiring on the gear front! Too dirty and loose for three stars in my opinion.
Mr. K - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with James Oswald

James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Kyle Wood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13

First leader fall - oh dear!
cathymiller - Lead dog - 10/Aug/13 with Mike Peak

Lead first pitch
Jevans - AltLd O/S - Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Anna

SGD - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with Rob Gray

Phill Mitch - 2nd rpt - 03/Jun/13 with bleggs

colin milton - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with shaun l

jimbonfire - Lead - 01/Jun/13

Spicy start to the season. Nesting bird flew between me and the cliff through my legs just as I was putting in gear above the crux. It's pretty polished and quite an adventurous VS. It's a classic Joe Brown route though. Roll out that fist jam!
mrmattwright - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Adrian Fletcher

bclifton - Lead - 2013

Nick Sillem - 2013

ianto - 2013

adie84 - 2013

Hidden - 2013

P1 only
Rich Malcolm - Lead - 27/Sep/12 with Lee Stanley

P2
Wayne S - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Jon Croxford

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/12

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Steve Elliff

Excellent route, but the polish is quite something.
hotfeet - AltLd - 05/Sep/12 with Austen Moulding

Lead P2
Joemanglerocks - AltLd - 02/Sep/12 with TimKnight

Led P1 - Everyone loves laybacking up a polished wall?!
TimKnight - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Paul Anker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12

Done as 1 pitch. Very polished in parts; like ice skating.
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Rachel Stater

Polished!
Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Olli Crudge, Chi Huo Cheng

Wooo polished layback and awkwards chimney :)
Olli-C - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Rachel Slater, chi

masa-alpin - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/12 with Lee P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12

malteserEd - Lead - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12

luke321 - Lead - 26/May/12 with Tom Jagger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12

Got the gardening pitch. Upper was horridly Polished
ojp - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Si

Ran it into one long pitch with relative ease.. Amazing route!! The crux is quite polished but i think it adds to the flavour.. lovely exposure on the crux/final moves.. Also quite hard for VS 4c! defo my favorate lead thus far :)
OliBangbala - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Ben bangbala

Hidden - AltLd β - 21/Mar/12

Lead P2
Matt Cooke - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Rosh

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - 2012

neilh - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Chris Hind - AltLd - 2012 with Bry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/11

asmith37 - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Matt Todd

Andy Peak 1 - 24/Aug/11 with Arron Thacker

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

gforce - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Emma

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/11

TRFrost - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with T. Bullock, L. Nedevska

Fantastic despite (or because of?) the polished crux.
PeteH - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/11 with John Cooper

rockjedi - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Borg

Very polished..
adi bryant - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Lee

davewsargent - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/11 with andy

Matt Shepherd - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Alice

ambrooker - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Tom

Paul D Jones - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with Jerome Gill

jiggerypokery - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/11 with Paul Jones

steady 1st pitch. good belay stance. Brilliant and exposed 2nd pitch. little polished but splendid. long walk off!!!
wishicud climbHVS - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Big Fat Dan

lead p2. loved it
bigdan050 - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/11 with Tosh

Bit wet in places and definitely not in three star condition!
migs493 - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Paul W

rich_hw - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10

Graeme Hammond - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Richard Williams

Lead pitch 2. Excellent route. Found the crack really hard and quite scary!
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Alan Saul

masa-alpin - 2nd rpt - 19/Sep/10 with Brian Q

Pitch 1 - Ben Pitch 2 - Me
slacky - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Ben

stephenhartley - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/10

Little B - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/10 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/10

five - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with AV

LittleClimbingMaria - 02/Jul/10

twright180 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Mr Sparkle - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Mike Hayes

led both pitches. I was a bit disappointed upon seeing the routes as its not much to look at, mainly due to the the first pitch being a bit vegetated in places (though its pretty solid despite what the guide says). However... although the 2nd pitch is extremely polished in one place the positions and climbing more than make up for that and average 1st pitch!! SUPERB blow my initial misgivings away!!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Pete aka Dad

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/10

Graeme lead P1 and I lead P2. The route was surprisingly dry after a prolonged rain lasting the whole day (even the A6 road surface was still wet when we arrived in the evening). P2 is very good, though P1 is rather vegetated. Probably the best VS limestone route I have ever done.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/10 with Graeme B

intended to do this as one pitch but backed off on the crack of P2. Far too plished for my liking and the exposure got to me. Good gear though. backed down to the big ledge and Masa lead P2 in good style. Good route but far too polished and tough at VS
gb83 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/10 with masa

tobydunford - 2nd β - 02/Jun/10 with Nick Sillum

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/10

greenclimb - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Sarah

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10

Done in one pitch although I would recommend two just because of rope drag/weight. To the first stance was easy and not as loose as I expected. From there it gets very bold and scary (for a VS) although the holds are mostly pretty good for hands. It is quite polished but not as bad as some of the reports I've been reading. I jammed, bridged, and laybacked my way up the crux as it is a bit too polished for a full commiting layback. It is a very worth while climb that I would recommend, but perhaps not 3 stars.
wild_nomad - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Tom

Pown - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/10

GF - 2010

fatblacktone - Lead dog - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Lead Pitch 1
Cat Hendrie - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/09

gazfellows - Lead - 15/Jun/09 with shaun d

I lead the first pitch (4b) and Rik lead the second(4c)....which is extremely polished!! This was by far the hardest climb iv ever done, i was petrified, but it was amazing!!
natalie28 - AltLd - 09/Jun/09 with Rik

I guess for some reason its a good route, but its like a bar of soap on the layback (crux?). Lead last year, probably never again, but not a bad intro to the crag for Mark.
Sam1991 - 2nd - 28/May/09 with Andy J and Mark

Led P2, brilliant
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09

bigdrew - 2nd - 28/May/09 with Mark R, Sam Dixon

Done as 1 pitch
miastacey - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Bob Smith

matthewjc - AltLd - May/09 with Andy

The best vs so far
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 22/Apr/09 with Gary ordish matt olson

Great climb, fantastic exposure at VS, just marred slightly by the polish on the groove above the mid-way belay (crux I think).
Misha - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09

Led both pitches in one
cem - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Graham Dolman

chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Sam Keyne

Great climb. Recommend jamming (not layback) the crack due to high level of polish (with Mark/ Rosa).
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Rosa, Mark Mercer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/09

rurp - Lead O/S - 2009

Alfredo - Lead β - 27/Sep/08 with Ben H

Polished!! Nice area. Bit of a mission to get to.
geddicakes - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/08 with Matthew Parkin

danm - AltLd - 14/Sep/08 with Sion

b.hayley - AltLd - Sep/08

Polished...really doesnt do it justice! Layback crack is like glass. Place something bomber and just go for it. good holds await!
Sam1991 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Matt

Matt Fry - Lead β - 14/Jul/08 with Sam Dixon

First climb ever that I thoroughly did not enjoy. Brilliant position but way too much ploish wouldn't lead it again.
mic_b - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Etienne

Pretty goey at VS. larger hexs/cams would help, all over after the jamming crack start.
IanJackson - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Swain16

A shit route, far too polished to be fun, i started off leading then reversed back down, just not fun
JDSwain - 2nd - 24/Jun/08 with Ian Jackson

Ian Parnell - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/08 with Jon Winter

Guy Wilson - Lead dog - 10/Jun/08 with Rich Austin

philhilo - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Ed Shaw

morganator - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Peter Folkman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/08

Hidden - 2008

Lead 2nd, very tricky for VS due to polish. The layback flakes footholds are all polished so best to get a foot in the the crack, place gear, and run for the top! For those saying not fun due to the polish...your retarded, its still an awesome route...grow some balls and climb it
Silum - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Tom

AntiGrav - 2008

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/07 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/07

Led the second pitch - felt hard for the grade. The route was much better than I remember - spectacular positions
Chris the Tall - AltLd rpt - 11/Sep/07 with Dave J

general - 11/Aug/07 with Rampant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/07

Led the 2nd pitch
PanzerHanzler - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Martin Hore

Jack Symmons - Lead - May/07 with Tom R

Feel guilty claiming that I did alternate leads as Terry led the main pitch. The first pitch, which I led is only worth Severe. Suberb route though and would probably get at least HVS if it was on Grit...
Whealiebob - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Terry

did top 4c pitch, hardest, scariest, most physically and mentally demanding VS i have ever done. undergraded, but absoloutely awsome! also most of the gear is tough to place correctly.
Milne - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Dave

Nicos - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with rich mansfield

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/07 with Danny

loose, shit gear, was not feeling the love
david morse - Lead - 22/Apr/07 with oli walker

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/07

Whitt - AltLd dog - 15/Apr/07 with Karl

dmoir - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/07 with Jon Moles

Hidden - 2007

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/06

Felt hard for Vs 4c and I'm not sure its worth its 3 stars. The first pitch is choss and the better top pitch, whilst there are lovely layback holds etc, just doesn't flow like a propoer 3 star route should.
bigphil - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Toby

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Budge - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/06 with Neil Botterill

mol - AltLd - 15/Apr/06 with Timmy

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/06 with Adrian Whitehall

Hidden - Lead - 2006

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Brown - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/04 with Jessika

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - Jul/04 with Richard Bower

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2003 with john d

Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/01

kato'sdad - Lead - 20/May/01 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - Lead O/S - 20/May/01 with Jon Berry

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

philb - Lead - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 28/Aug/99

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/99

Carling 41 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/98

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/96 with Karen

Andy Say - 2nd - 04/Sep/94

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/94

daprince - Lead - Jul/94

Okecroak - AltLd - 29/Jun/93 with M Mercy

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

leathers - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/92 with Martin Whittaker

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/92 with Mel, Moley, Pete

Hidden - 2nd - 1992

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1990

rob.grafton - 1990 with barry maybank

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Aug/89

Hidden - 15/Aug/89

Though it was nearly 20 years ago when I did this route I still remember the jackdaw that flew out of the crack into my face. How I stayed on I don't know.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jun/89 with Debbie Wilkinson

babymoac - Lead - 21/May/89 with George

shark - Lead - 28/Jun/86 with Chris M

Chris the Tall - 2nd - 28/Jun/86 with Simon Lee

eroica64 - Lead O/S - 17/May/85 with Burt Simmons

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/84

malc - AltLd - 20/May/84

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/83

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/83

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/83

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/May/82 with Ian Milne

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/81 with Alice Hampton

Hidden - 1981

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980 with Colin Binks

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 20/Oct/79 with Andy Bond

Pat led 1st pitch,me the 2nd.
mike bridges - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/79 with Ned, Pat Meeds

Nigel Bond - Lead - 12/Jul/79 with Martin Crosby

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 04/Jun/79 with Martin Veale

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 03/Jul/77 with Bob Knapton

Had seconded in about 1968
David Smith - AltLd - 1976 with Al Bennett

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

mikej - Lead - 09/Dec/73 with E

greenbuoy - Lead - 26/Feb/72 with Bob Lister, Terry Taylor

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Voting
Total votes cast 236
hard HVS0 of 82
HVS0 of 82
easy HVS9 of 82
hard VS48 of 82
VS23 of 82
easy VS2 of 82
hard HS0 of 82
HS0 of 82
easy HS0 of 82
hard 5a0 of 83
5a0 of 83
easy 5a20 of 83
hard 4c43 of 83
4c19 of 83
easy 4c1 of 83
hard 4b0 of 83
4b0 of 83
easy 4b0 of 83
3 Stars30 of 71
2 Stars36 of 71
1 Star4 of 71
0 Stars1 of 71
Bag of .....0 of 71
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 239 (0.4%)
Lead98 of 239 (41.0%)
Followed37 of 239 (15.5%)
Alt Leads81 of 239 (33.9%)
Unknown22 of 239 (9.2%)

'Climbed'87 of 239 (36.4%)
clean O/S126 of 239 (52.7%)
clean β5 of 239 (2.1%)
clean rpt14 of 239 (5.9%)
dogged7 of 239 (2.9%)