Rockfax Description
A popular crack-climb and nearly always out of the clutches of the sea. Start on a high ledge at its left end below a thin crack.
1) 5a, 19m. Climb the thin crack and then step left to another, which quickly leads to a good ledge. Climb a left leading flake-crack and then work back up right to a stance and belay next to a gully.
2) 4c, 14m. Move up the gully to below an overhanging V-shaped corner. On its left wall is a series of thin undercut cracks, climb these to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

garywong 28/Aug AltLd O/S

Led P1. Didn't have a guidebook, so ended up the wrong (but worthwhile) leftward leaning crack at the ledge. Loic got back on-route with a small traverse.

with Loic Menzies
Hidden 28/Aug 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug 2nd O/S
Robin Brooke ?/Jul Lead

Led both pitches. Three parts all great, first steep sustained thin crack. Then wide crack layback on slab. Then the steep finish in the V corner.

Pryan ?/Jul 2nd
Hidden 26/May AltLd
Ewan Russell 26/May Lead O/S

Think we did top pitch donna for top pitch?

with Halla
Tom Last 17/May 2nd rpt
with Hernan 'Chile' Ibanez, Pete Greening
Chilidog 17/May 2nd O/S
with Pete Greening, Tom Last
Hidden 15/May Lead O/S
fulton333 15/May 2nd
with JakeB
Tom Last 07/May 2nd

Good and tough. 2nd clean.

Bargate_Champ 07/May Lead O/S
lost.arrow 02/May AltLd

Stu gets the first and tricky pitch.

with Stu Sherwood
crawa003 06/Apr Lead
Brian H 05/Apr AltLd
with Rob Davies
Rob Davies 05/Apr AltLd

Cold fingers to start. We probably wandered on to something else on P2.

JoeCoxson 08/Feb Lead O/S

Took a couple of goes to commit up the first few moves, a balanced approach is definitely necessary.

Will Mortimer 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Milton Wakefield
fulton333 28/Sep/14 Lead
e.sunnyside 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Grant
whiteexplorer 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with joe
dready 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
cem 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Tough.

with Peter Murphy
petegruf 03/Sep/14 AltLd
with charles m
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
Lumbering Oaf 23/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Matt P1, me P2 after a nice gear faff. Led top of P1 as start of P2.

manbat 23/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Stoked to lead this beast (P1), but shame had to take a rest on my gear. Not as pumpy on the arms as expected, but hard as nails on the feet. Also thought the big ledge was the end of P1, so Matt continued up the slab/flake which was also tricky.

klipkabouter 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with German Patrick
bpmclimb 28/May/14 Lead O/S
with Clare
Simon cook ??/2014 -
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd
mat cooper 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 AltLd
with BMC international meet
Hidden 15/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Spearos 01/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Had climbed to the first ledge four years ago, first lead of the year, loads of faffing around eventually got me to the belay. Nice few moves on final black wall.

with Riggo
dprctr 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Scary without cams.

with Patrick
zcsharp 16/Mar/13 Lead rpt

Lead the first pitch then couldn't be bothered to do the second pitch so went around to the left instead.

with Sam Hooper
Ed morris 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Colin
janegallwey ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/12 2nd
Mayo 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

P1 Terrace Cracks, P2 Dolphin Cracks

with Catty
Hidden 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 11/Jul/12 2nd

Great crack climb - scary but fun!

mark88 04/Jun/12 AltLd
with Paul Millen
El3ctroFuzz 15/Apr/12 AltLd
with Elaine Budden
Elaine Budden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

guy757 14/Apr/12 -
Marti999 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd dog
tobydunford 03/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
zcsharp 17/Mar/12 2nd
with Becky, Al
Davebryant 26/Feb/12 Lead
arandall 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Really scary, very top end of HVS. Did as 3 pitches so I could be sure Wendy could do it. The 2nd pitch (3rd for me) had some really good moves.

Wendy Watthews 12/Feb/12 2nd
wojt ??/2012 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
embob 26/Aug/11 2nd

Nicely sustained crack pitch, and great contrasting 2nd pitch on black rock up the left wall.

with Alex
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead
manbat 17/Aug/11 TR O/S

Climbed it a year ago with great difficulty and lots of rests. Climbed it mich better today. great to see some improvement!

Lumbering Oaf 17/Aug/11 TR
Matt Fry 29/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Nest in the corner after the big flake so we finished up the RHS of the roof - absolutely brilliant climbing through great terrain with no change in grade. A far more appealing-looking proposition than the original route!

LisaA 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
AlistairB 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Lisa
Hidden 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Clay C 12/Mar/11 AltLd dog
Alasdair88 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


lrandall 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

The lower cracks of the first pitch are as sustained and enjoyable to climb as they look. The upper flake crack and second pitch all felt a bit disjointed (and thrutchy at times!). Worth seeking out for the initial cracks, might be worth trying to join the second pitch Dolphin Cracks here? Would yield a good 2 star combination.

with Matt
Matthew Robinson 05/Mar/11 AltLd

Lead 2nd, short, pitch

with Luke
paddymitton ?/Mar/11 Lead

Top pitch only as a finish to Hayloft

cornishmackem ??/2011 -
Justin T 23/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Cherry
nickstephens 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 01/Sep/10 2nd

Backed off P1, then Phil finished it

with Phil Ashton
Rowansb 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with dave
Hidden 14/May/10 Lead
verticon 11/May/10 Lead O/S
with Scott Titt
Luuuuuke 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Billy
freakeystyley34 08/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Dan
Hidden ??/2010 -
jominator 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with wu
Ben Harper 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with John Brown
TiffTiff 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve M
muzz44 ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 25/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

led p1, not sure what we did for the top one

with Howard
jfreeman 07/Jun/08 AltLd rpt
simonr 07/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/08 2nd
Rob Kennard 28/Aug/07 -
with Jon Biddle, Jon Howell
Neil Adams 06/May/07 2nd O/S
with Tim from BUMC
Dan_Carroll 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S
timharrison 25/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Matt Burrows
Lev 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Ashley Hold 03/Sep/04 Lead
with Laurence North
Samuel P 11/Jan/03 2nd
with Luke
lost.arrow 06/May/02 -
jfletcher 28/Apr/01 Lead
andybenham ??/2001 2nd O/S
Roget 16/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
with jon
crater 11/May/00 2nd
crater 10/May/00 2nd
lost.arrow 22/Apr/00 -
with Paul Palfreyman
stuart100 18/May/97 2nd O/S
with Ian Brown
lost.arrow 30/Mar/97 -
Hidden 29/Aug/95 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/91 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Master Chief, Hidden, Hidden, Maywood96, Hidden, Hidden, SurferStan, johnpr, Dilwat, Hidden, JackMountains
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set