Mestizo** E1 5b
[Mestizo 1st Pitch, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A great route that can be climbed in one long and sustained pitch. The route is reached via the first pitch of The Hustler.
1) 5a, 20m. As for The Hustler.
2) 5a, 23m. From the belay, move back right above your previous line to reach a small right-facing flake. Climb this more or less direct to a ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 20m. Move up into the left-hand crack, and when this gets hard, span out to the right crack, and start using a combination of both to gain the steeper section where the cracks join. Hurry up this, fighting the growing pump to reach the top of the wall and belay back on spikes. It is possible to link pitches 2 and 3 into one mega-sustained pitch.
4) 30m. Traverse right across the ledge as for The Hustler P3.
5) 35m. As for Nightride P4. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Mestizo 1st Pitch © Gezzer
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This climb is in 51 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

D.Russell - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Ally

Ally Baba - 2nd - 08/Aug/15 with dougie

Nick Wallis - AltLd O/S - 16/May/15 with Dave Sykes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/14

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 13/Jul/14 with David

alexjz - AltLd O/S - 26/May/14 with Matt Burdekin

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Lee Roberts

Ros did P1 and P3, the crux pitches.
Rachel Somerville - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Ros M

led P1+P3, second P2 after being drenched several times by big waves and it certainly felt harder than 4c
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Rachel Somerville

hard above the P2 belay/ big ledge the crack itself is much easier
alasdair19 - Lead - 12/Aug/12

Lead P2+3 together, hard for the grade if done like this, but makes for an awesome pitch!
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/12 with Chris

That sea level traverse is sweet! and that 4c pitch is probably 5b
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/12 with Owain

P1 + 2
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with L.Fleming

hard above the P2 belay/ big ledge the crack itself is much easier
alasdair19 - 2012

al99 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Nick Record

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/11

Sea level traverse for the first pitch which is graded 5a but more like 4c! Interesting second pitch graded 4c but more like 5a (which I managed to lose the route on)! Top pitch an awkward crack which I ran out of strength on! A bit of a disjointed finish, take your pick from a number of options although you're supposed to go for a 4c chimney. Long walk back to the gearing up area.
Gezzer - 2nd - 29/Apr/11 with Steve Burns

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/11

Led all 3 pitches, incl the entry traverse pitch. The tides were low, seas were calm & weather perfect.pitch. To me the 2nd pitch (allegedly 4c) was as hard as anything on the top pitch. Gear on top pitch was good. Excellent route, well chuffed! Takes a long time to get off the route & get back to the descent gully.
Pete Nugent - Lead - 27/Apr/11 with John Venier

It was getting dark, and a piece of gear was stuck at a pumpy section so I had a take to get it out. Gutted really, as the rest was clean.... Really great route though, quite snappy rock at the bottom. Getting off the cliff is as much of an adventure as the route.
Ceridwen - AltLd dog - 17/Apr/11 with Uber Mike

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Dizz - 2nd - 16/Oct/10 with megan

accidentally soloed the first pitch, didnt realise the first pitch is the traverse in. Hidden classic, better than Hombre
david morse - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Duncan

Accidentally soloed the first a crap swimmer so this put the willies on me a bit once i realised I could end up in the drink with a rope tied to me! wcked route though. led p2 which had a hard move for 4c on it!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Dave Morse

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jun/10

solo first pitch
barni - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with helena

Brilliant, climbed on a very hot day.
danm - AltLd - 22/Jun/09 with Sion

Linked P2 and P3 together, held on with the pump after a great day climbing.
centurion05 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with The Reverend

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 2009

Al Evans - 2008

WB - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with Guy

Nick Biven - 17/May/99 with Tim Neill

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 29/May/94 with Chris Wilson

GuyM - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/82

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

neilh - 2nd - May/80 with kevin glass

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/79

steve L - AltLd - 27/May/79 with Gary

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Paul Collins, tlmarjot, Katex, Different Steve

Total votes cast 44
hard E20 of 15
E20 of 15
easy E21 of 15
hard E18 of 15
E16 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard HVS0 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c1 of 16
hard 5b4 of 16
5b11 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars11 of 13
2 Stars2 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S