Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff >
 
The Big Groove*** E3 5c

Adjacent Climbs
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[The final moves of Big Groove's crux pitch., 3 kb]105m, 3 pitches. Low in the grade, even without the pegs.
Peter Crew and Dave Alcock (1 pt aid) 1966

Ticklists: Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales.

Photo: The final moves of Big Groove's crux pitch. © richard kirby
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 182 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

Brown - AltLd - 26/Jul/14 with Joel

Lead crux pitch 2. It was really hot and my feet hurt a lot.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with James Oswald

Lead p1 and p3, had to rest to get a wire out on the crux pitch. Good climbing, though moving up from the ledge is bold especially if you're short. Very hot and sore feet.
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Rachel Slater

Led P1 and P3, great climbing a bit scruffy on P3 but very enjoyable !
mr mills - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with alun hughes

mike mo - 2014

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with brad reed

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

The Grist - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Alan Barnes

P2,4. Led the crux pitch. Amazing route, solid E3.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 22/May/13 with jon stewart

Great route! Lead P1 and P3. Pity bout Dave's brief sit on the rope above the crux on P2!
andyinglis - AltLd - 19/May/13 with Dave Ogden

Wee rest when I couldn't see the jug on the crux
dave o - AltLd - 19/May/13 with Andy Inglis

Damp! One slip.
Dizz - 2nd - 04/May/13 with EJ

What a great adventure! Very aptly named too. Splendid lead of Helena doing the wet crux pitch, I struggled lots more on a second. Led P1 & 3 Loved it
Sardien - AltLd - 20/Apr/13 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - Apr/13

captain - 2013

JRae - AltLd - 07/Oct/12 with Liam P

ellis - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Dave Hollinger, Tom Holdsworth

Excellent adventure - Will was just fast enough on the first pitch to stop the water from swallowing our (my) feet and did an excellent job of gardening on the 3rd pitch.
alaan - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Will

jamesturnbull - AltLd - Aug/12 with aiden

Led P1 & P3. Great way to get back into trad for the season!
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Gwen

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 30/Sep/11 with Doddy

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Sep/11

Lead P1,2 and 4. Pitch 2 was good, with some cruxy moves. Pitch 3 was sustained. 5b,5c,5b,4a
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Duncan

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/11

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Luke

Led crux
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Glyn Hudson

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Andy Hall

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Hidden - 2011

I lead P2, belayed at the right of the sloping ledge instead of the left, felt a bit sketchy until john got up with more gear. nice route though
willoates - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with john

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Buddle

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Jul/10

switch - AltLd rpt - 15/May/10 with Leanne

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/10

JulesV - AltLd - 22/Apr/10 with joe bawden

barni - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/10 with long jon

stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - Feb/10 with Rob Bryniarski

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Sep/09

ian caton - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Abi

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/09

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 22/Jun/09 with Andy Reeve

datoon - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with DT

led crux pitch. went to main cliff on bikes.
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 21/May/09

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 21/May/09 with Ed Booth

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Ed Booth

Led Pitch 1 (5a)
MONKEY78 - Lead - 21/Mar/09 with adam ellwood

Ed Booth - AltLd - 21/Mar/09 with Adam Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/08

Led 1st & 3rd pitches.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Brian

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 02/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/07

Great route, pitch two felt exciting with all pegs missing! Pitch 3 a little dirty but still a great pitch. The 5a pitch took the longest!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Emily

Rob Kennard - 2007

centurion05 - 2007

bronsonite - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Dave Barrans

dan gibson - AltLd - 12/Jun/06 with john nuttal

Ian McNeill - 2006

Bern - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

WB - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/04 with Guy

spidey - Lead - 02/Sep/03 with doyle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/02

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Phil Leng

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/01 with Ant

Hot May
philhilo - AltLd O/S - May/01 with brian rodgers

nige - AltLd - 2001 with mark hounslea

Julian Wedd - AltLd - 2001 with A. Howarth

Hidden - Lead - 2000

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 2000 with Albert, James Hubbard

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

phardman - 20/Jul/97

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/97 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/97 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 30/Mar/97 with Jon Sykes

sadams - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Mark Hamilton

frost - AltLd - Jul/96 with S Raw

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 14/Apr/95 with richard parry

richparry - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

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Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

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Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

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Hidden - 1995

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Hidden - 1995

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Hidden - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 30/Jul/94 with Dennis Wong

Hidden - AltLd - 1994

steve taylor - 1994

Grezza - AltLd O/S - Sep/92 with Mick RIP

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead - 25/May/92 with Tony Sawyer

mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/91 with Alan Holden

Neil R - 2nd - 31/Aug/91 with Richard W

Roget - 2nd O/S - 23/May/91 with colin

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - May/91 with Smokin Dick

NickJH - 2nd O/S - May/91 with D Picker

L,2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/90 with Ian Milne

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/88

led 1st and 2nd pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/88 with ket

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1988

Hidden - 1988

Bob - AltLd O/S - 16/May/87 with R. Graham

Roy Stuart - AltLd O/S - May/86 with Dave Waters

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

After failing on Graduation Ceremony again
shark - Lead rpt - Oct/85 with Charlie Stripp

shark - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/85 with Seb Grieve

GuyM - 1985

keefe - 19/Aug/83

Hidden - Lead - 22/May/82

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 27/Jun/81 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/81

Al did crux, since lead on other ascents
David Smith - AltLd - May/81 with Al Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/81

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Jun/80 with Wawa

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - May/80 with Eric Marsden

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1979 with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg

GeoffG - AltLd - Jun/78 with tony bowker

Mike Owen - 29/Apr/78 with Pete Craig

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Apr/77

Bolt Phobia - 2nd dnf - 14/May/76 with Dave Williams

Hidden - 1976

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".
Falko - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/75 with Howard Lancashire

mikej - AltLd - 13/Sep/69 with Bill Church

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 1967

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ollie B, Hidden, Hidden, mike lawrence?, The_Boy_ODwyer, Hidden, jonnybull, pigeonslipper, Just Another Dave, Hidden, Hidden, pabbage, Hidden, Martin Haworth, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, derekb, Ewan Russell, Gezzer, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 69
hard E40 of 23
E40 of 23
easy E41 of 23
hard E32 of 23
E318 of 23
easy E32 of 23
hard E20 of 23
E20 of 23
easy E20 of 23
hard 6a0 of 23
6a0 of 23
easy 6a1 of 23
hard 5c4 of 23
5c17 of 23
easy 5c1 of 23
hard 5b0 of 23
5b0 of 23
easy 5b0 of 23
3 Stars14 of 23
2 Stars8 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars1 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Lead16 of 182 (8.8%)
Followed7 of 182 (3.8%)
Alt Leads87 of 182 (47.8%)
Unknown72 of 182 (39.6%)

'Climbed'113 of 182 (62.1%)
clean O/S61 of 182 (33.5%)
clean rpt5 of 182 (2.7%)
dnf3 of 182 (1.6%)