90m, 4 pitches. 1. (6a) Climb the corner left of the Positron/Eraserhead wall. As the wall steepens, trend a little left and then back right onto a sloping shelf below a bulge. Traverse right using sidepulls to jug, and good gear. Ignoring the crack which continues up and left (ET P1), step right again spanning across to the obvious large flake. Make powerful, but balancey, moves towards a jug on the arete. Gain the jug and pull round into Positron and climb over the roof above to belay as for Positron P1.
2. (6b) Pull through the crux of Positron pitch 2 into the groove of Alien. Teeter immediately left across the undercut roof until you reach a peg and good gear. Make powerful moves off undercuts up and right into the flake. Layback this until it runs out and make a big move onto a flat hold. Pull on further flat holds into P3 of Positron. Climb left through 2m the crux of Positron P3, then head straight up the crack to the bucket seat belay.
3. (5a) Climb the crack to the top of the pillar right of the belay. Step left and scramble up seagrass rock to the base of the black wall on the exit pitch of Dinosaur.
4. (5c) Follow Dinosaur's final pitch to the heather.

Andy Pollitt 12/May/1984

Ticklists: North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.

Hidden 30/Aug AltLd
Alex Mason 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Bloody awesome. Led main pitch. (P1. E5 6a) Phoenomenal, intimidating, wild and pumpy. Best route on Main Cliff...

with George Ullrich
Adam Ellwood 17/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Did first pitch after nige backed off it, thought i'd leave the main pitch for another day.

with nige hunt
Hidden 07/Jul/07 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Apr/01 2nd

Great effort by Simon who almost onsighted the main pitch. I froze on the belay and was glad to be on the second! Incredible, forceful climbing

switch ??/2001 AltLd dog

led the 2nd pitch and made it up to Positron, before falling off with a sausage-burnin' pump...wild.

jfletcher 11/Aug/95 AltLd O/S

Graham Baxter AL, I led pitch 2 massively pumped!

with Graham Baxter
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 03/Jun/89 -
with Mike Waters
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