Rockfax Description
An amazing route that traces an incredible line up the centre of the Positron headwall. The first pitch takes the large corner at the base of the Positron headwall.
1) 6a,18m. Climb the corner and surmount a small bulge below where the corner fades into massive overhangs. Traverse right to reach the belay at the end of Positron P1.
2) 6b, 40m. Follow Positron to the groove of Alien. Continue left and up to gain a shallow niche below the headwall - no-hands rest and good runners. Climb out of the niche to gain a flake and layback up this in a fantastic and increasingly pumpy position. The flake-line eventually peters out at a small flake - thin sling runner. Continue up on face holds to join the headwall pitch of Positron. Follow this leftwards for a few moves. Step right and climb a vertical crack which leads to the 'bucket seat' belay in the apex of the headwall. Congratulations. It's best to do a short pitch from the bucket seat belay to belay again on Cordon Bleu before choosing a finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1. (6a) Climb the corner left of the Positron/Eraserhead wall. As the wall steepens, trend a little left and then back right onto a sloping shelf below a bulge. Traverse right using sidepulls to jug, and good gear. Ignoring the crack which continues up and left (ET P1), step right again spanning across to the obvious large flake. Make powerful, but balancey, moves towards a jug on the arete. Gain the jug and pull round into Positron and climb over the roof above to belay as for Positron P1.
2. (6b) Pull through the crux of Positron pitch 2 into the groove of Alien. Teeter immediately left across the undercut roof until you reach a peg and good gear. Make powerful moves off undercuts up and right into the flake. Layback this until it runs out and make a big move onto a flat hold. Pull on further flat holds into P3 of Positron. Climb left through 2m the crux of Positron P3, then head straight up the crack to the bucket seat belay.
3. (5a) Climb the crack to the top of the pillar right of the belay. Step left and scramble up seagrass rock to the base of the black wall on the exit pitch of Dinosaur.
4. (5c) Follow Dinosaur's final pitch to the heather.
Andy Pollitt 12/May/1984.
North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , James' 2015 Summer. , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Trearddur Bay)