Shear Fear*** E2 5c
[Shear Fear, Ratho, 2 kb]The reason you went outside instead of staying in the Ratho wall? The beautiful twin flake cracks, a great route. Judicious use of both cracks makes it less brutal than appearances suggest.
Willie Jeffrey, Chris Craggs 1975

Ticklists: Central Belt - Local Classics.

Photo: Shear Fear, Ratho © Eric9Points
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This climb is in 179 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Seconded Eric for this. First time trying anything in the E grades, had difficulty on the crux but the rest went pretty well.
Pete_Stewart - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/15

ErikAndersen - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/15 with Peter, Joe

Wonderful route. Watch out for the football sized loose triangular block towards the top. Needs trundling.
David Woods - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Euan Maharg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15

Without a doubt a lovely route and super SUPER safe. I did fall off on the second at crux but thats because i was rushing it as time was running fast. 100% sure I could lead this if i go back.
dmacmorris - 2nd - 30/Aug/15 with Kevin Woods

Ewanski - Lead - 20/Aug/15 with Stuart M

My friend climbed up placed some gear fell off crux so went up and finished it.
wookie667 - Lead β - 15/Aug/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Aug/15

Brilliant line.
Lamb - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/15 with seanhendo123

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/15

Nearing the top of the flake made a long step left and used the tapering finger crack (nearing the sport route) to gain the sloping ledge above- not sure if thats allowed? Even so, well chuffed to onsight this, was hanging around for ages getting very scared and considering lowering off so glad I battled through!
mishabruml - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/15 with John McKenna

Great route. Almost blew it topping out the flake system, found the right holds though! Pretty pumpy, great gear too.
Hugh Simons - Lead β - 18/Jul/15 with Euan Todd

Dogged to the top first go, so so pumped. Got it second go, much easier. A powerful route, don't hang around for too long! Absolutely bomber gear though.
Euan Todd - Lead RP - 18/Jul/15 with Hugh Simons

Climbed yesterday with 1 fall, got it clean this morning! Great route
seanhendo123 - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/15 with Emeric

Came off right before the ledge, gutted! Got straight back on and got it easy enough, great route, next time.
seanhendo123 - Lead dog - 04/Jul/15 with Emeric

weelee9985 - Lead O/S - Jul/15 with David McKinney

let this one go to second,
herrettscott - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/15 with Timmy

First time on rock since bub. Brilliant moves. Shame to have to go back indoors and climb on plastic. Thanks to Timmy for the rope :)
sophiecb - 2nd - 23/Jun/15

olekemi - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/15 with Jeremy M, Mark G

climbing in the sun for fun!
glenngordon - Lead rpt - 26/May/15 with fran sheridan

Rollo Rolo - TR RP - 22/May/15

By the cheating left hand variant. Desperate.
Ian Jones - 2nd rpt - 19/May/15 with DCBBB (Robert Durran)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/15

Ogden did it first. Good route
Dangerous Dave - Lead β - 22/Mar/15 with Dave O

Fell off the first move back into the boulders.....and fell up the last moves on the flake!
dave o - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with Dave Cowan

CaelanB - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/15 with Joe Barlow

bmox - 2nd O/S - 15/Feb/15

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Oct/14

Truly amazing for a recently blasted quarry. Just like outer limits in yosemite, without the stamina hands at the end! Loved it
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/14

nickb1 - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/14

Sophie Gilbert - 2nd dog - 25/Oct/14 with nickb1

HaddRoots - Lead G/U - 21/Sep/14

Burly - Jug noted as loose a couple of years ago is still loose.
Stevie989 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/14 with redjerry

redjerry - 2nd - 20/Aug/14 with Stevie Weir

DavidMcK - Lead RP - 09/Aug/14 with Adam Harris

calumhicks - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Adam Harris

sikcby - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/14

interesting climbing, felt fairly tough in the heat
Brian Pollock - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Gordon, Stewart

Nice to do again as a warm up. Loose jug low down
JamieSparkes - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/14 with Claire Holland

Hidden - TR - 25/Jun/14

AndyL - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with christine, seamus

Several years since last ascent and brief shower on the crux made this a little more exciting than I'd planned. Still fine, and great climbing.
salix - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/14 with Frazer

warrygallace - 2nd - Jun/14 with Ian

lostmariner - 30/May/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/May/14

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/14

EBailey - 2nd β - 15/May/14

ejj - 2nd β - 12/May/14

an affirming start to the trad season. very enjoyable climbing. not too hard.
ferdia - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Andy

Looked pretty cool so thought f**k it and gave it a go, came off at the crux(maybe) and ended up lowering off in growing darkness. . . Maybe wasnt best time try and get 1st e2. Next time
seanhendo123 - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/14 with Emeric

LHumble - Lead dog - 2014 with Shed

lukemcphee - Lead - Oct/13

gjd - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/13 with Sam Burns

faaaaack! Hand in the jug at the top of the crack, foot slipped, 6m fall! Next time, next time...
Gabe Oliver - Lead - 11/Aug/13

Had to come back for the clean lead :)
gurumed - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13 with Mitch

Fell at the crux, then lowered and seconded it. Next time...
gjd - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/13 with Mitch, Gurumed

Lead on Geoffs gear to the crux, then fell off. Finished the rest of route in one go.
gurumed - AltLd dog - 27/Jul/13 with Mitch, gjd

Martin McKenna - UKC - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Luke McPhee

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/13

John McKenna - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Martin McKenna - UKC

Ewanski - 2nd - Jun/13 with Cal. C

Hidden - TR dog - 28/May/13

james1978 - 2013

Busby - 2013

jonathanfield - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Jun/12

Sean Bell - 2nd rpt - 05/May/12 with Neil Carnegie

pielander - TR - 27/Mar/12 with chris

Brilliant......but cold
dj_brigham05 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Graham McGrath

Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with dave brigham

Just a general note that the spike jug just after you pull onto the first diffucult section (used to take a good wire) is now dangerously loose, making the first section slightly harder to climb and protect. Probably needs glueing or removing.
hexcentric - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Harry Holmes - Lead RP - 02/Nov/11 with Joanna

horsefeathers - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/11 with Harry

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Oct/11

freyja - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/11 with Chris Gorgolewski

Macleod - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with dominic

freyja - TR dog - 25/Sep/11

D_Wills - 2nd - 24/Sep/11

GraemeDiack - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/11 with Keith Alexander

KeithAlexander - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/11 with Graeme Diack

adamc - TR RP - 03/Sep/11 with Guilio Lanny

small victory!
simon_D - Lead - 25/Aug/11 with Fiend

cat22 - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/11

Better than it looks! FInished up Strongarm, shame the topo encourages you to scuttle off left.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Dave Macleod, Paul Diffley, James Oswald

Awesome. First e2 but lead on Jacob's gear, placed a few more wires for it. Felt quite confident moving above my gear. DId the awesome strongarm finish and lowered off the stake. Great arm bar rest in the crack before the crux which wasn't too hard. Was convinced that it was quarried grit!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

glenngordon - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with iain sneddon

gjd - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Sam Burns

Denpov - TR rpt - 03/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/11

seconded clean with Ian. My 3rd ever 2nd. :o)
Denpov - 2nd rpt - 17/May/11

top roped three times. amazing moves. not sure I could hang about and place gear yet, lead can wait.
jazzyjackson - TR rpt - 14/May/11 with Ally

Reminded me of the gritstone quarries!
jameshiggins - Lead O/S - 07/May/11 with Neil Adams

Neil Adams - 2nd rpt - 07/May/11 with Jim Higgins

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/11

simondunf - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with beau

mhowie - TR O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Niall

Denpov - TR rpt - 26/Apr/11

Very pumpy but excellent route. Dry hand syndrome caused a few slips but ultimately very do-able.
mastiffmat - TR - 26/Apr/11 with Pete Kirkby

Toprope Self-Belay.
Denpov - TR RP - 15/Apr/11

Self belay and found moves then toproped it clean. Will be back to self belay it clean soon.
Denpov - TR RP - 12/Apr/11

Peter Rhodes - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/11 with Gemma Gwynne-Stevenson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/11

Macleod - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

First extreme lead. Took a while to catch up with myself.
salix - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Scottish78 - 2011

MonkeyDawson - 2011

MonkeyDawson - 2nd rpt - 30/Oct/10 with Simon Smith

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

sneaks - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with janey

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 19/Aug/10 with Leisha

Denpov - Lead dnf - 06/Aug/10

Harry Holmes - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/10 with Liyen

Retro flash, was 3rd ever trad route about 5-6 years ago. Awesome route!
CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Janey Kennedy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/10

Denpov - TR dog - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10

Very nice route
spunkymonkey - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/10

Always warming.
Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 17/May/10 with Davide

jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 08/May/10 with bob foster

rcammack - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Tom HS, Liyen Nhuyen

very mannly - an awesome climb
krasavenko - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/10 with Robbie, Tom HS

THardSevere - TR dog - 21/Apr/10 with robbie cammack

pretty damn sustained, excellent route.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris, Claire Holland

squidgebob - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris BL, jamie

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09

Lawrie Brand - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/09 with Tom Simmons

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/09

Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Jamie Wilson

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Calum

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09

Looked really nice so gave it a bash and got my second onsight E2...thanks to a wee dynamic move to a thank god ledge!
sebrider - Lead O/S - 16/May/09 with Stuart Marshall

stuartm555 - 2nd dnf - 16/May/09 with Seb Rider

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/09

had a wee rest, still chuffed :)
hubereini - Lead dog - 25/Apr/09 with mo

Fun climbing on enormous holds, two ways to go at crux, either power up or swing left for hidden holds...
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 24/Apr/09 with Duncan

decs - 2nd - 24/Apr/09 with Chad

Good route. Pumpy for placing gear, but a big friend at the back of the crack sure helps for the crux. Made a big difference having seconded it the previous w/e.
kevg - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/09 with Fraser

Excellent route
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with mal_meech

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/Apr/09

kevg - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Fraser

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Mar/09

Quite an easy E2 but a brilliant climb. E2 5b perhaps more appropriate. Happy to do it, was not feeling up to much in the morning feeling ill and still aching from drunkenly falling out of a tree on Friday.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

JdotP - 2nd dog - 22/Mar/09 with Joe Larner

Pumped oot ma bracket when trying to style it out up the crux. Rested and thugged up. Psyched to lead.
Hay - 2nd dog - 2009 with Neil Carnegie

great route, great gear. was psyched for the on-sight but pumped out big time at the crux and slumped on gear. Should have gone for it when I could. Another time.
jazzyjackson - Lead dog - 28/Sep/08 with Ally

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Sep/08

R0bbie - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Taba and kevin

It looked a good climb got qauter up it and chikened out!! A little over my grade just now!
K_MacLeod - 2nd dnf - 16/Aug/08 with R0bbie and Taba

simon_D - 2nd RP - 02/Jul/08 with Neil Silver

Clean this time, still gutted tho. Ground up ascent.
andymoin - Lead - 06/Jun/08 with Sean

Andy led it without much of a fuss.PUmpy little number with some good moves, worthy of its stars.Wish there were more like this in the central belt..
Sean Bell - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Andy

Nice climbing that I had cyked up to be supper hard, it turned out to be pretty easy. Even so I didn't get it clean and had a stupid slip when I swapped feet on a good rest, gutted.
andymoin - Lead - 05/Jun/08 with Dave, Neil Mackenzie

Neil Mackenzie - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/08 with Andy and Dave

Fultonius - 2nd - 02/May/08 with Andy Inglis

andyinglis - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Ally Fulton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/08

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/08 with Greg B

Greg Boswell - Lead O/S - Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

awesome. just made it..
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Calum Clarke

Sean Bell - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/06 with neil

Ice Spider - Lead - 2006 with Rew

great quality!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 2002 with Tony Stone

Chad123 - Lead O/S - May/00 with Muppet

Easy when you get started. Reminds me of flutings in Dinorwic Slate Quarries.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 2000 with Charlie

buzby78 - Lead - 05/May/98

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 14/May/97 with Jacob Oberhauser

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1997

Ian Jones - 2nd - Oct/96 with Nick Conway

buzby78 - Lead - 19/Jul/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/96

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1996

Duncan I - Lead dog - 1993

whispering nic - 2nd - Oct/92

Nick Biven - Lead - 29/Jul/92

Alastair R - Lead O/S - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 13/Oct/79 with Brian Dick

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!, Finlay Johnston, Hugh Simons, MightyStew, CaelanB, alice_loudon, David Woods, HaddRoots, JonmapDL, stargate, BWoodward, jamestheyip, Ally Hill, schultz, jazzyjackson

Total votes cast 105
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