Midlothian > Ratho Quarry >
 
Shear Fear*** E2 5c

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(Strongarm - old version) >>
[Shear Fear in the evening sun, all in a days work for Mr B., 4 kb]The reason you went outside instead of staying in the Ratho wall? The beautiful twin flake cracks, a great route. Judicious use of both cracks makes it less brutal than appearances suggest.
Willie Jeffrey, Chris Craggs 1975

Ticklists: Central Belt - Local Classics.

Photo: Shear Fear in the evening sun, all in a days work for Mr B. © neil the weak
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 146 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Burly - Jug noted as loose a couple of years ago is still loose.
Stevie989 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/14 with redjerry

redjerry - 2nd - 20/Aug/14 with Stevie Weir

DavidMcK - Lead RP - 09/Aug/14 with Adam Harris

calumhicks - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Adam Harris

sikcby - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/14

interesting climbing, felt fairly tough in the heat
Brian Pollock - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Gordon, Stewart

Nice to do again as a warm up. Loose jug low down
JamieSparkes - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/14 with Claire

Hidden - TR - 25/Jun/14

AndyL - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with christine, seamus

Several years since last ascent and brief shower on the crux made this a little more exciting than I'd planned. Still fine, and great climbing.
salix - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/14 with Frazer

warrygallace - 2nd - Jun/14 with Ian

lostmariner - 30/May/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/May/14

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/14

EBailey - 2nd β - 15/May/14

ejj - 2nd β - 12/May/14

an affirming start to the trad season. very enjoyable climbing. not too hard.
ferdia - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Andy

Looked pretty cool so thought f**k it and gave it a go, came off at the crux and ended up lowering off in growing darkness. . . Maybe wasnt best time try and get 1st e2. Next time
seanhendo123 - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/14

lukemcphee - Lead - Oct/13

gjd - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/13 with Sam Burns

faaaaack! Hand in the jug at the top of the crack, foot slipped, 6m fall! Next time, next time...
Gabe Oliver - Lead - 11/Aug/13

Had to come back for the clean lead :)
gurumed - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13 with Mitch

Fell at the crux, then lowered and seconded it. Next time...
gjd - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/13 with Mitch, Gurumed

Lead on Geoffs gear to the crux, then fell off. Finished the rest of route in one go.
gurumed - AltLd dog - 27/Jul/13 with Mitch, gjd

martinmckenna - Lead - 03/Jul/13 with Luke

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

Ewanski - 2nd - Jun/13 with Cal. C

Hidden - TR dog - 28/May/13

james1978 - 2013

Busby - 2013

jonathanfield - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Jun/12

SeanB - 2nd rpt - 05/May/12 with Neil Carnegie

pielander - TR - 27/Mar/12 with chris

Brilliant......but cold
dj_brigham05 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Ginger McGrath

Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with dave brigham

Just a general note that the spike jug just after you pull onto the first diffucult section (used to take a good wire) is now dangerously loose, making the first section slightly harder to climb and protect. Probably needs glueing or removing.
hexcentric - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Harry Holmes - Lead RP - 02/Nov/11 with Joanna

horsefeathers - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/11 with Harry

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Oct/11

freyja - 2nd dog - 22/Oct/11 with Chris Gorgolewski

Macleod - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with dominic

freyja - TR dog - 25/Sep/11

D_Wills - 2nd - 24/Sep/11

GraemeDiack - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/11 with Keith Alexander

KeithAlexander - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/11 with Graeme Diack

adamc - TR RP - 03/Sep/11 with Guilio Lanny

small victory!
simon_D - Lead - 25/Aug/11 with Fiend

cat22 - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/11

Better than it looks! FInished up Strongarm, shame the topo encourages you to scuttle off left.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Dave Macleod, Paul Diffley, James Oswald

Awesome. First e2 but lead on Jacob's gear, placed a few more wires for it. Felt quite confident moving above my gear. DId the awesome strongarm finish and lowered off the stake. Great arm bar rest in the crack before the crux which wasn't too hard. Was convinced that it was quarried grit!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

glenngordon - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with iain sneddon

gjd - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Sam Burns

Denpov - TR rpt - 03/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/11

seconded clean with Ian. My 3rd ever 2nd. :o)
Denpov - 2nd rpt - 17/May/11

top roped three times. amazing moves. not sure I could hang about and place gear yet, lead can wait.
jazzyjackson - TR rpt - 14/May/11 with Ally

Reminded me of the gritstone quarries!
jameshiggins - Lead O/S - 07/May/11 with Neil Adams

Neil Adams - 2nd rpt - 07/May/11 with Jim Higgins

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/11

simondunf - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with beau

mhowie - TR O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Niall

Denpov - TR rpt - 26/Apr/11

Very pumpy but excellent route. Dry hand syndrome caused a few slips but ultimately very do-able.
mastiffmat - TR - 26/Apr/11 with Pete Kirkby

Toprope Self-Belay.
Denpov - TR RP - 15/Apr/11

Self belay and found moves then toproped it clean. Will be back to self belay it clean soon.
Denpov - TR RP - 12/Apr/11

Peter Rhodes - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/11 with Gemma Gwynne-Stevenson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/11

Macleod - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

First extreme lead. Took a while to catch up with myself.
salix - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Scottish78 - 2011

MonkeyDawson - 2011

MonkeyDawson - 2nd rpt - 30/Oct/10 with Simon Smith

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

sneaks - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with janey

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 19/Aug/10 with Leisha

Denpov - Lead dnf - 06/Aug/10

Harry Holmes - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/10 with Liyen

Retro flash, was 3rd ever trad route about 5-6 years ago. Awesome route!
CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Janey Kennedy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/10

Denpov - TR dog - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10

Very nice route
spunkymonkey - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/10

Always warming.
Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 17/May/10 with Davide

jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 08/May/10 with bob foster

rcammack - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Tom HS, Liyen Nhuyen

very mannly - an awesome climb
krasavenko - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/10 with Robbie, Tom HS

THardSevere - TR dog - 21/Apr/10 with robbie cammack

pretty damn sustained, excellent route.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris, Claire

squidgebob - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris BL, jamie

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09

Lawrie Brand - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/09 with Tom Simmons

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/09

Lawrie Brand - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Jamie Wilson

Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Calum

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09

Looked really nice so gave it a bash and got my second onsight E2...thanks to a wee dynamic move to a thank god ledge!
sebrider - Lead O/S - 16/May/09 with Stuart Marshall

stuartm555 - 2nd dnf - 16/May/09 with Seb Rider

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/09

had a wee rest, still chuffed :)
hubereini - Lead dog - 25/Apr/09 with mo

Fun climbing on enormous holds, two ways to go at crux, either power up or swing left for hidden holds...
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 24/Apr/09 with Duncan

decs - 2nd - 24/Apr/09 with Chad

Good route. Pumpy for placing gear, but a big friend at the back of the crack sure helps for the crux. Made a big difference having seconded it the previous w/e.
kevg - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/09 with Fraser

Excellent route
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with mal_meech

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/Apr/09

kevg - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Fraser

Nice line but strenuous! (Poor technique didn't help...)
Fraser - Lead dog - 29/Mar/09 with Kev

Quite an easy E2 but a brilliant climb. E2 5b perhaps more appropriate. Happy to do it, was not feeling up to much in the morning feeling ill and still aching from drunkenly falling out of a tree on Friday.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09

JdotP - 2nd dog - 22/Mar/09 with Joe Larner

Pumped oot ma bracket when trying to style it out up the crux. Rested and thugged up. Psyched to lead.
Hay - 2nd dog - 2009 with Neil Carnegie

great route, great gear. was psyched for the on-sight but pumped out big time at the crux and slumped on gear. Should have gone for it when I could. Another time.
jazzyjackson - Lead dog - 28/Sep/08 with Ally

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Sep/08

R0bbie - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/08 with Taba and kevin

It looked a good climb got qauter up it and chikened out!! A little over my grade just now!
K_MacLeod - 2nd dnf - 16/Aug/08 with R0bbie and Taba

simon_D - 2nd RP - 02/Jul/08 with Neil Silver

Clean this time, still gutted tho. Ground up ascent.
andymoin - Lead - 06/Jun/08 with Sean

Andy led it without much of a fuss.PUmpy little number with some good moves, worthy of its stars.Wish there were more like this in the central belt..
SeanB - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Andy

Nice climbing that I had cyked up to be supper hard, it turned out to be pretty easy. Even so I didn't get it clean and had a stupid slip when I swapped feet on a good rest, gutted.
andymoin - Lead - 05/Jun/08 with Dave, Neil Mackenzie

Neil Mackenzie - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/08 with Andy and Dave

Fultonius - 2nd - 02/May/08 with Andy Inglis

andyinglis - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with Ally Fulton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/08

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/08 with Greg B

Greg Boswell - Lead O/S - Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

awesome. just made it..
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Calum Clarke

SeanB - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/06 with neil

Ice Spider - Lead - 2006 with Rew

great quality!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 2002 with Tony Stone

Chad123 - Lead O/S - May/00 with Muppet

Easy when you get started. Reminds me of flutings in Dinorwic Slate Quarries.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 2000 with Charlie

buzby78 - Lead - 05/May/98

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 14/May/97 with Jacob Oberhauser

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1997

Ian Jones - 2nd - Oct/96 with Nick Conway

buzby78 - Lead - 19/Jul/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/96

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1996

Duncan I - Lead dog - 1993

whispering nic - 2nd - Oct/92

Nick Biven - Lead - 29/Jul/92

Alastair R - Lead O/S - 1989

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 13/Oct/79 with Brian Dick

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
seanhendo123, JonmapDL, stargate, BWoodward, Hidden, jamestheyip, Ally Hill, Hidden, Hidden, schultz, jazzyjackson

Voting
Total votes cast 84
hard E30 of 27
E30 of 27
easy E30 of 27
hard E24 of 27
E219 of 27
easy E23 of 27
hard E11 of 27
E10 of 27
easy E10 of 27
hard 6a0 of 28
6a0 of 28
easy 6a0 of 28
hard 5c1 of 28
5c12 of 28
easy 5c13 of 28
hard 5b2 of 28
5b0 of 28
easy 5b0 of 28
3 Stars12 of 29
2 Stars17 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Lead76 of 146 (52.1%)
Followed45 of 146 (30.8%)
Toproped15 of 146 (10.3%)
Alt Leads2 of 146 (1.4%)
Unknown8 of 146 (5.5%)

'Climbed'39 of 146 (26.7%)
clean O/S57 of 146 (39.0%)
clean β3 of 146 (2.1%)
clean rpt17 of 146 (11.6%)
clean RP6 of 146 (4.1%)
dogged17 of 146 (11.6%)
dnf7 of 146 (4.8%)