Positron*** E5 6a
[The Positron headwall pitch of Ordinary Route, 2 kb]62m, 3 pitches. According to Alex Sharpe this was 'an extremely strenuous and sustained route up very steep rock. The top pitch is phenomenally impressive and is one of the hardest routes at Gogarth'. In fact it is a little disjointed, pitch 2 being short and artificial. Pitch 3 is the highlight. Stevie Haston soloed this years ago.
Alan Rouse and Peter Minks. FFA Alex Sharpe. Mar/1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: The Positron headwall pitch of Ordinary Route © richard kirby
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 49 wishlists.

led top 5c pitch, one of the great climbs
mike lawrence? - 21/Sep/14 with FatRob

Finally got round to doing it! Wicked fun- led both hard pitches
morganator - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Dan Arkle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14

Fell off a bit on P3. Led top pitch and also fell off a bit!
theotherpetehill - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/14 with Ross McKerchar

Psyched to come back and lead this after seconding it years ago. P3 was super exciting, although I found P1 nearly as hard!
quiffhanger - Lead β - 28/Jun/14 with Peter Hill

Fell off on P2 but seconded P3 clean! Super route awesome climbing!! Lead P4
alexjz - AltLd dog - 14/Jun/14 with James Marjot, George Ullrich

P2 + 4. Amazing. Both greasy and freezing!
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 22/May/14 with Tom Livingstone

P1 and P3. Mega
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 22/May/14 with Nathan Lee

Pieterjan De Roo - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13

Awesome and pumpy are the two words that describe this beast of a route! P1 looked straightforward but turned out to be a pumpy E3 5c pitch, solid lead by Tim. I got P2 with the fairly short but hard crux. Looks quite intimidating as it's an overhang and you can't see exactly where to go afterwards. Profusion of chalk all over the place didn't help! Eventually manned up to get over the initial overhang, which wasn't too bad. Whacked a good cam in and spent ages hanging around trying to figure out what to do and attempting to move up. Got increasingly tired and had to have a rest on the rope. Tried a different sequence using an undercut and the next few moves went fine but it looked hard to get into the finishing groove and my right hand was pumping out so reverse to the cam for another rest on the rope. Got it next time - moved left as before but made a slight foot adjustment and it was fine. As ever, poor technique let me down in extremis! A tough E3 6a which probably isn't too bad if you read it right quickly. Tim raced up it and took over for the crux pitch. Couldn't see it from the belay but Tim moved fairly quickly so I figured it wouldn't be too bad. Wrong! Monstrously strenuous and pumpy from the moment you leave the spike. Keeps luring you on with the promise of better holds but it feels like they all point the wrong way and it's steep. Had to really fight it but managed to hang on ok. The traverse to the overhang wasn't too bad, followed by a poor rest on undercuts. Moving up the left hand side of the overhang is actually not too bad and then at last you get a decent rest! Easy after that. Would have been a tough E4 if I was fresh, which I definitely wasn't after fighting with the previous pitch! Impressed Tim did it so quickly. My problem is I hang around too much! I did the finishing pitch, which fortunately wasn't pumpy but had some nice 5b sequences (don't think it was really 5c). What better route for a first E5? Shame not to get it clean (logged as blank so it would cound for the extreme rock list). Felt pretty wiped out by the end. I guess it's E5 for the overall effort as I don't think any of the individual pitches are harder than E4. A great experience, first big route on Main Cliff, hungry for more! :-)
Misha - AltLd - 31/Aug/13 with Tim Newton

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with misha nepogodiev

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

centurion05 - 2013

pitch 3. ended up on this after being too keen to read the topo for rat race. did p2 of that and thought the 'obvious' line would be to continue up the fault. ended up being a 56m pitch! dangled on the last pumpy move round the rooflet on positron. not gonna beat myself up too much.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Oct/12

Led 2+3. Felt alot fitter on p 3 this time after failing 3 yrs ago. really enjoyed this.
Ed Booth - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Adam Booth

P1 and P4. Well done Ed, cruised the crux pitches.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Ed Booth

datoon - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with DT

1st and 3rd ptch. Superb!
C coldwell-storry - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Iron Mike

Bruce Houston - 2nd - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Jon Ratcliffe

Superb
Russell Birkett - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11 with Murdoch J

Main pitch only, pumpy line good effort by Mike!
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2011 with Helena Robinson

Led P1 + P3. Absolutely brilliant, tricky undercutting on P2. Felt like i exerted more on P1 than P3. Brilliant pitch P3 and probably hard E4 5c for this pitch on its own.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with George Ullrich

soph - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Ross McKerchar, Dan McManus

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10

fell off twice on third pitch, awesome route
centurion05 - AltLd dog - 03/Jul/10 with patch

quiffhanger - 2nd O/S - Jul/10

Led 2nd & 4th (Dinosaur's 3rd)
Brown - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with James T

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2010 with dave brown

Led P2+3
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09

Led first pitch. will led second, hard little funky bit. I 3rd pitch and fucked it up. just wasn;t feeling the love. bit of a shame as i would have liked to have done it first try but should have gone when a bit fitter. At least unlike Right Wall, i feel confident about being able to go back and do it.
Ed Booth - AltLd dog - 01/Aug/09 with will sim

nige - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/09 with ewan mccallum

Cassidy - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with McGeek

mgeek - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with alan cassidy

Amazing Route
buzby78 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Johnny Stocking

led every pitch. Ace!
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Nick Smith

nic42 - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/09 with Luke

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with Malcolm Scott

Seymore Butt - 2009

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Led 2 & 3rd pitches. Awesome.
Adam Ellwood - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08 with Porky

Al Evans - 2008

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 2008 with JulesV

Bottled lead of P1 as it was gopping. Happy to second
John Southworth - 2nd - 07/Jul/07 with Chris Snell

seconded pitch one of Ordinary Route then took lead up on Positron.
andi turner - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with grimer

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - 2006

2nd lead of the year. Thank God for campussing.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/05 with Tuffty Nick

tuftynick - 2nd - 2005 with tom briggs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Very strenuous clibming on the headwall pitch. Climbed in borrowed shoes that were to small on a very hot day. Both of us were very dehydrated by the final pitch to get off the main cliff. Struggled on the HVS crack of cordon bleu! Quality route though with fantastic atmosphere. Well protected where needed. Technical crux is defintely the second pitch.
nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 08/Jul/04 with Mark

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/01

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - Jun/00 with Graham Doig

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/97

Led P2 with rest and tension
ellis - AltLd - Jun/97 with Simon Witcher

w Ellis. led 1st and 3rd. Ghastly move on the 2nd pitch, round into Alien on the 2nd.
switch - AltLd O/S - 1997

sadams - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/96 with John Boyle

Richard White - 1996

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/May/95

Awesome, we were completely pumped!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/95 with Nick Ashton

Steve Crowe - 1995 with KM

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/94 with jon

words are not enough. Lead P1/2, P4. Al cruised the famous headwall... see picture in UKC
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/92

Pitch 3 is outstanding. More logical and better to do Ordinary Route Pitch 1 instead of the original first 2 pitches.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

Led pitch 2 and 3, then we abbed off so not a full ascent. Pitch 2 is technically harder than 3, but pitch 3 pumps you more. I only just made it.
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/92

Led pitch 1 & 3
jfletcher - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/91 with David Gilkes

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/90

Great position on top pitch
DDDD - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Simon Lee

Steve Walker - Lead - Oct/89 with paul entwistle

Followed main pitch
shark - AltLd - 14/Jul/89 with Derek Toulalan

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

keefe - 24/Aug/86 with Alan Wilson

I led pitch three.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - Aug/86 with Dave Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/84

Mike Owen - 27/May/84 with Les Jennings

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/82

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/77

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Voting
Total votes cast 62
hard E60 of 22
E60 of 22
easy E60 of 22
hard E50 of 22
E515 of 22
easy E56 of 22
hard E41 of 22
E40 of 22
easy E40 of 22
hard 6b0 of 22
6b0 of 22
easy 6b0 of 22
hard 6a2 of 22
6a15 of 22
easy 6a4 of 22
hard 5c1 of 22
5c0 of 22
easy 5c0 of 22
3 Stars17 of 18
2 Stars0 of 18
1 Star1 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

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dogged