Positron*** E5 6a
[The unsung fifth pitch, 2 kb]62m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route, and probably the most coveted E5 on the Main Cliff. The third pitch is a totally 'out there' experience that will live with you for a long time. Start at ledges 18m past the Gogarth pinnacle, just right of an arete and where the higher platform drops in height.
1) 5c, 20m. Move up and right into a scoop, then traverse back left to a small ear-like flake. From here, head up and slightly left to a ramp, and follow it left to the arete. Arrange what gear you can and make a crux pull over a bulge to reach easier ground and a belay below the chimney groove of The Rat Race.
2) 6a, 15m. Move up into the chimney/groove as for The Rat Race and arrange some high runners. Move down and make a dramatic traverse left on sloping holds and pinches to the arete. Pull round on a nipple of rock, and somehow gain the groove. Follow this more easily to reach the shared belay below the horrid looking chimney on The Rat Race.
3) 6a, 30m. An amazing pitch. From the belay, move out left onto a spike in the rib. From here, you can see a diagonal crack soaring across an imposing headwall. Climb the crack, first below it, then making a hard transition to above it. Eventually you can traverse out left below an overlap and make a strenuous move over the left-hand end of it. Carry on up easier ground until you can step left into the groove of Dinosaur and bridge up this to a belay on a spacious ledge.
4) Finish up Dinosaur (previous page) or Cordon Bleau. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
According to Alex Sharpe this was 'an extremely strenuous and sustained route up very steep rock. The top pitch is phenomenally impressive and is one of the hardest routes at Gogarth'. In fact it is a little disjointed, pitch 2 being short and artificial. Pitch 3 is the highlight. Stevie Haston soloed this years ago.

Alan Rouse and Peter Minks. FFA Alex Sharpe. Mar/1971

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: The unsung fifth pitch © mike lawrence?
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 110 logbooks, and on 54 wishlists.

Just p3 as part of ordinary route. Absolutely brilliant! felt really intimidated at the start of the pitch, got really pumped and had to run it out from where the crack petered out to the roof. Just about made it. Find main cliff difficult if I'm honest. Keen to head back for the full thing.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/15 with Michaela "the champ" Tracy

Hidden - 02/Sep/15

Lead P3 & 4. P3 was the lead of my life!
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Iain Moodie

Finished up Positron P3/P4 after Alien. An incredible combo. Led P4
Tom Livingstone - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/15 with Henry Francis

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15

A good climb, suffered from being massively overrated though - the horrible smeg probably didn't help. Good leads by Uisdean. What is the point of P2?
samwillo - AltLd - 10/Jul/15 with Uisdean Hawthorn

A good route led 1&3. Pitch one a bit greasy, felt hard. Headwall pitch is good. But would only get 2 stars on the islands.
Uisdean hawthorn - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/15 with Sam

Headwall pitch as part of OR.
NDD - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/15 with tony stone

jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Will Smith

My first sea cliff experience. Awesome! Led pitches 2 and 4.
willsm11 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15 with James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/15

led top 5c pitch, one of the great climbs
mike lawrence? - 21/Sep/14 with FatRob

Finally got round to doing it! Wicked fun- led both hard pitches
morganator - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Dan Arkle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14

Luxulyan - AltLd dog - 03/Jul/14 with Tom Murrell

Fell off a bit on P3. Led top pitch and also fell off a bit!
theotherpetehill - 2nd dog - 28/Jun/14 with Ross McKerchar

Psyched to come back and lead this after seconding it years ago. P3 was super exciting, although I found P1 nearly as hard!
quiffhanger - Lead β - 28/Jun/14 with Peter Hill

Fell off on P2 but seconded P3 clean! Super route awesome climbing!! Lead P4
alexjz - AltLd dog - 14/Jun/14 with James Marjot, George Ullrich

P2 + 4. Amazing. Both greasy and freezing!
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 22/May/14 with Tom Livingstone

P1 and P3. Mega
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 22/May/14 with Nathan Lee

Pieterjan De Roo - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13

Awesome and pumpy are the two words that describe this beast of a route! P1 looked straightforward but turned out to be a pumpy E3 5c pitch, solid lead by Tim. I got P2 with the fairly short but hard crux. Looks quite intimidating as it's an overhang and you can't see exactly where to go afterwards. Profusion of chalk all over the place didn't help! Eventually manned up to get over the initial overhang, which wasn't too bad. Whacked a good cam in and spent ages hanging around trying to figure out what to do and attempting to move up. Got increasingly tired and had to have a rest on the rope. Tried a different sequence using an undercut and the next few moves went fine but it looked hard to get into the finishing groove and my right hand was pumping out so reverse to the cam for another rest on the rope. Got it next time - moved left as before but made a slight foot adjustment and it was fine. As ever, poor technique let me down in extremis! A tough E3 6a which probably isn't too bad if you read it right quickly. Tim raced up it and took over for the crux pitch. Couldn't see it from the belay but Tim moved fairly quickly so I figured it wouldn't be too bad. Wrong! Monstrously strenuous and pumpy from the moment you leave the spike. Keeps luring you on with the promise of better holds but it feels like they all point the wrong way and it's steep. Had to really fight it but managed to hang on ok. The traverse to the overhang wasn't too bad, followed by a poor rest on undercuts. Moving up the left hand side of the overhang is actually not too bad and then at last you get a decent rest! Easy after that. Would have been a tough E4 if I was fresh, which I definitely wasn't after fighting with the previous pitch! Impressed Tim did it so quickly. My problem is I hang around too much! I did the finishing pitch, which fortunately wasn't pumpy but had some nice 5b sequences (don't think it was really 5c). What better route for a first E5? Shame not to get it clean (logged as blank so it would cound for the extreme rock list). Felt pretty wiped out by the end. I guess it's E5 for the overall effort as I don't think any of the individual pitches are harder than E4. A great experience, first big route on Main Cliff, hungry for more! :-)
Misha - AltLd - 31/Aug/13 with Tim Newton

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with misha nepogodiev

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

pitch 3. ended up on this after being too keen to read the topo for rat race. did p2 of that and thought the 'obvious' line would be to continue up the fault. ended up being a 56m pitch! dangled on the last pumpy move round the rooflet on positron. not gonna beat myself up too much.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Oct/12

Led 2+3. Felt alot fitter on p 3 this time after failing 3 yrs ago. really enjoyed this.
Ed Booth - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/12 with Adam Booth

P1 and P4. Well done Ed, cruised the crux pitches.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Ed Booth

datoon - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with DT

1st and 3rd ptch. Superb!
C coldwell-storry - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Iron Mike

Bruce Houston - 2nd - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Jon Ratcliffe

Russell Birkett - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11 with Murdoch J

Main pitch only, pumpy line good effort by Mike!
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead - 2011 with Helena Robinson

Led P1 + P3. Absolutely brilliant, tricky undercutting on P2. Felt like i exerted more on P1 than P3. Brilliant pitch P3 and probably hard E4 5c for this pitch on its own.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with George Ullrich

soph - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Ross McKerchar, Dan McManus

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10

fell off twice on third pitch, awesome route
centurion05 - AltLd dog - 03/Jul/10 with patch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10

quiffhanger - 2nd O/S - Jul/10

Led 2nd & 4th (Dinosaur's 3rd)
Brown - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with James T

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2010 with dave brown

Led P2+3
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09

Led first pitch. will led second, hard little funky bit. I 3rd pitch and fucked it up. just wasn;t feeling the love. bit of a shame as i would have liked to have done it first try but should have gone when a bit fitter. At least unlike Right Wall, i feel confident about being able to go back and do it.
Ed Booth - AltLd dog - 01/Aug/09 with will sim

nige - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/09 with ewan mccallum

Cassidy - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with McGeek

mgeek - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with alan cassidy

Amazing Route
buzby78 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Johnny Stocking

led every pitch. Ace!
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Nick Smith

nic42 - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/09 with Luke

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with Malcolm Scott

malx - AltLd O/S - Apr/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Led 2 & 3rd pitches. Awesome.
Adam Ellwood - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08 with Porky

Al Evans - 2008

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 2008 with JulesV

Bottled lead of P1 as it was gopping. Happy to second
John Southworth - 2nd - 07/Jul/07 with Chris Snell

seconded pitch one of Ordinary Route then took lead up on Positron.
andi turner - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with grimer

ali_robb - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - 2006

2nd lead of the year. Thank God for campussing.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/05 with Tuffty Nick

tuftynick - 2nd - 2005 with tom briggs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Very strenuous clibming on the headwall pitch. Climbed in borrowed shoes that were to small on a very hot day. Both of us were very dehydrated by the final pitch to get off the main cliff. Struggled on the HVS crack of cordon bleu! Quality route though with fantastic atmosphere. Well protected where needed. Technical crux is defintely the second pitch.
nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 08/Jul/04 with Mark

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/01

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - Jun/00 with Graham Doig

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/97

Led P2 with rest and tension
ellis - AltLd - Jun/97 with Simon Witcher

w Ellis. led 1st and 3rd. Ghastly move on the 2nd pitch, round into Alien on the 2nd.
switch - AltLd O/S - 1997

sadams - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/96 with John Boyle

Hidden - 1996

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/May/95

Awesome, we were completely pumped!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/95 with Nick Ashton

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/94 with jon

words are not enough. Lead P1/2, P4. Al cruised the famous headwall... see picture in UKC
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/92

Pitch 3 is outstanding. More logical and better to do Ordinary Route Pitch 1 instead of the original first 2 pitches.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

Led pitch 2 and 3, then we abbed off so not a full ascent. Pitch 2 is technically harder than 3, but pitch 3 pumps you more. I only just made it.
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/92

Mike Owen - AltLd rpt - 15/May/92 with Niklas

Led pitch 1 & 3
jfletcher - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/91 with David Gilkes

I led pitch pitch one and then accidentally continued up pitch two as well.
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/90 with AJ

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 09/Jul/90 with Steve Crowe

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/90

Great position on top pitch
DDDD - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Simon Lee

Steve Walker - Lead - Oct/89 with paul entwistle

Followed main pitch
shark - AltLd - 14/Jul/89 with Derek Toulalan

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

keefe - 24/Aug/86 with Alan Wilson

I led pitch three.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - Aug/86 with Dave Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/84

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 27/May/84 with Les Jennings

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/82

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/77

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Total votes cast 72
hard E60 of 25
E60 of 25
easy E60 of 25
hard E50 of 25
E518 of 25
easy E56 of 25
hard E41 of 25
E40 of 25
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6b0 of 25
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