5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first route climbed here and by far the most popular route on the Main Cliff. Start at the pinnacle that blocks the way leftwards to the other routes.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the wide crack/groove on the right-hand side of the pinnacle to its top.
2) 5b, 18m. You are aiming for a ledge only 8m above you, but you have to climb three sides of a square to reach it. Start by descending from the pinnacle and traversing right across the wall and round an arete to the base of a steep groove. Climb the groove to a ledge and traverse back left to a sloping ledge.
3) 4c, 18m. Head up a short crack leading up from the left side of the ledge to reach easier ground, and continue up and right to below another groove.
4) 4b, 18m. Climb up the groove in a great position to belay at the top of the upper pinnacle.
5) 5b, 40m. Traverse right across the steep wall, and make difficult moves up to reach a thin crack. Thankfully good holds soon appear and are followed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Varied in style and standard. Exposed on pitch 5.
The very first climb on Gogarth.

Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen 04/Apr/1964

Ticklists: Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist.

Graeme Hammond 11/Oct AltLd O/S
guy757 08/Oct -
joermann 19/Sep AltLd dog
Batt 19/Sep AltLd rpt

Lead p2 and 4 since I lead the others last time. It would appear that I might have traversed to far on p5 last time onto the top pitch of resolution. Either way I've now done two different finishes, both 5b.

Mackinclimb 15/Sep AltLd O/S

Lovely sun trap in the afternoon! Great route.

j.buckley87 12/Sep AltLd O/S

Crag to ourselves in glorious sunshine and even a visit from the seals. Crux pitches are great fun but p4 is a real gem.

Chris Oldfield 12/Sep AltLd dog

led pitches 1 and 4. pumped out on the final pitch and used extracting a stubborn nut as an excuse to weight the rope. Great route.

with James Buckley
Paul Collins 06/Sep AltLd rpt

Funny that I still found the last pitch pretty tricky three years since I was last on this route!

with Neil Byrne
harry_lewis 03/Sep AltLd O/S
amccann 03/Sep AltLd O/S
Matadoors 29/Aug AltLd

led p1, 3 and 4

Hidden 29/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug AltLd
crimpingjack 18/Aug AltLd
stacey73 10/Aug 2nd

Dogged crux trying to remove insitu nut "

with Steve L, Emma
Hidden 08/Aug AltLd O/S
frank ramsay 08/Aug AltLd

Interesting Italian hitch experience after Nick dropped belay device. Interesting nut extraction procedures after Nick dropped nut key. Altogether an excellent route.

Hidden 03/Aug AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 03/Aug AltLd O/S

Led P2&4 (#4 is superb VS pitch). Good lead from David on the finale, I thought it was quite tough. Excellent calm sunny conditions while torrential rain in Pass and 40mph winds battering S Stack car park from the south.

KeenClimber 01/Aug AltLd

5c finish.

with Ian Dugdale
Hidden ?/Aug AltLd O/S
chris sm 31/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul -
Hidden 25/Jul AltLd dog
hotfeet 23/Jul AltLd


Hidden 12/Jul 2nd
alastairbegley 12/Jul Lead

It has been a long time since I fell off an E1... Great conditions, dry rock, not too hot, not too cold. Climbing was great but p5 was a bit of a shock, ran out of strength and took a decent lob onto the good gear below.

BTphonehome 11/Jul AltLd O/S

P2&5. A great historical route with an excellent final pitch.

with Andi
shed_hed 01/Jul AltLd O/S

P2, 3 & 5. Went slightly off route on P2/3 and ended up on Resulotion direct, but despite hideous amounts of rope drag arrived back at the correct belay stance for Rob to lead P4.

with Rob Partridge
robpartridge 01/Jul AltLd O/S
with Darren McMaster
Hidden 27/Jun Lead dog
Tom Redmond 27/Jun AltLd

led 3rd and top pitch. top pitch was really good!

with joe cossey, luke dudhil
newtonmore 24/Jun -
Pete_Frost 21/Jun AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,5. P5 is way harder than all the rest, but still OK at the grade. P4 is brilliant.

with Chris Brooks
Rob84 21/Jun AltLd
with Mike Dudley
Nigel Bond 19/Jun Lead O/S
with Colin Hutton
JamesWilliams 15/Jun AltLd O/S

awesome afternoon on main cliff :D lead the crux pitch which is feisty ! bunney did pitches 3 & 4 as one which makes more sense. easy up till the last pitch 5a second pitch not 5b

with bunney
ianstevens 14/Jun AltLd

Lead P2 and 4, messed around like a true pleb on the steeper bit on P5. Clearly my arms aren't tuned for steepness with a bag on!

M_Robinson 14/Jun AltLd O/S
Adam24B 14/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,3 and 5, brilliant last pitch

Chris_barr 13/Jun AltLd O/S

Done in 3 pitches. lead 3/4

with Theo
pearson9596 13/Jun AltLd O/S
with Kat G-B
KittyKat 13/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4

with Michael Pearson
Suzana 11/Jun AltLd O/S


mr mills 11/Jun AltLd O/S

Climbed p2&5, p5 is brilliant !

with alun hughes
Hidden 25/May AltLd O/S
Rafal Malczyk 24/May AltLd dog
with Martin Bagshaw
Martin Bagshaw 24/May AltLd dog

fell on the steep bit of the last pitch cos i climbed it like a bodybuilder and didn't use my feet - gutted.

with Rafal Malczyk
GStone 23/May 2nd
with Steve Senior, Marcus Harvey
mapperley samurai 23/May AltLd dog

Lead pitches 1, 2, & 5. Lobbed off the final pitch. Nice.

masa-alpin 12/May AltLd O/S

Dennis lead P1-3 in one go, and I lead P4-5 in one go. I went off route to finish on the last pitch of Devotee (5c). The route finding is a little tricky.

with Dennis van Hoek
Sam Simpson 04/May AltLd O/S

Properly Chummed round, loved last pitch totes amazeballs.

Hidden 04/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/May AltLd dog
Hidden 17/Apr Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 04/Apr AltLd rpt
Brannock 04/Apr AltLd
dunk3607 ?/Apr AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 23/Mar 2nd dog

Fell on easy pitch! One fall.... Rest clean

with James Machaffie
Bruce Houston 19/Mar Lead O/S

Done in a trio, Toni's first climb of the year! Mega good fun, climbing is always casual, but great position and good climbing!

Oli 14/Mar AltLd O/S

Led first and last pitch. Tom linked the middle three into a 50m monster. Had a mini crisis of confidence for some reason, despite not finding it tricky. Spoogy conditions.

Tom Livingstone 14/Mar AltLd O/S

Led P2, 3 and 4 in one.

phil64 ??/2015 Lead
danmullett ??/2015 -
greglad 30/Nov/14 -
LJKing 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Great route. Led pitches 2 and 4. Had previously tried this climb many years ago but led most of Resolution/Devotee and ended up falling off top pitch, followed by epic retreat!

with Paul Clarkson
spragglerocks 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2 & 4. Slight excursion onto the E2 on p5, made seconding a little tricky trying to retrieve gear and get back on route!

with Matt
robgixer 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Lead P1,3 and last pitch of Devotee after looking in the guide and saying not the first crack!

Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
wi11 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P2 of Devotee, P5 of Gogarth

with Ruth B
ferdia 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
clipskipper 01/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Got the glory pitch, and made it clean :-)

with Davey Boy
stemill 26/Jul/14 AltLd


Chris Manasseh 26/Jul/14 AltLd

Lead pp 2 + 4. 3-4 m fall off pitch 2 (pumped and missed a crucial hold). Gear held.

with Ste Millington
ned_85 25/Jul/14 AltLd dog
with Didrik Kristiansen, Emily Bridger
erbridger 25/Jul/14 2nd

Hot, Sweaty!

with nedly14
redshapedfriday 10/Jul/14 AltLd β
with Owen Pearce
Hidden 06/Jul/14 AltLd
kp64zl ?/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Took a ~4 metre fall off the crux (top pitch) (gear slightly below my feet). Misread the sequence, got pumped and could hold on no longer. Gear all held though, & the No.4 rock that took the main impact remains....could someone return it to me please? Crux sequence seems quite long, pumpy & sustained for an E1, especially as there's no good rest for a way after (when pumped). Will come back when I am climbing better! At least there were 4 good gear placements below the crux.

with Paul McC
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd
Justin T 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with Nick B
Scotsken 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Started raining mid crux! However that didn't spoil the enjoyment of a brilliant route. We are very lucky to have such awesome trad sea cliff routes in the UK. Every time I come here it gets me more psyched to go back...

with Sven Heaps
HAJ Francis 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and 5

cheeky 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
mark4344 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route and position on sea cliffs. joined pitches 1+2, which was a mistake with rope drag. 3+4 joined well. bomber jams on top pitch and good gear throughout. Tough 5b pitches.

with Matt Payne
misterb ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with justin
alexjz 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead all pitches except P2

with Matt Burdekin
James_L88 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4. Had a small fall off the crux seconding P5. First proper sea cliff and first time at Gogarth - intimidating but fun!

UnkArl 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Our first climb on Gogarth and James' first sea-cliff climb. Thankfully we were first on the route as it was quite a busy day. Glorious weather, sketchy approach, the odd bit of tricky route finding (on my pitches anyway). P3 was furry and scrappy but the other pitches were great! Me - P1, P3, P5 James - P2, P4

Hidden 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 25/May/14 AltLd

p2.. went bit off route. p.4.. a nice corner p.5 mikey led,quite wet.

with mikey P
Hidden 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
Jaysquared69 17/May/14 AltLd
with Olly P
Hidden 07/May/14 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Hall 07/May/14 AltLd
WNW 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with Harry Turnbull
Hidden 17/Mar/14 -
Si ??/2014 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
hilty 06/Oct/13 -

Lead pitch 1 and linked 3 n 4 Adam lead 2 and 5

Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
GLO 28/Sep/13 AltLd
leon 24/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Fab's first route @ Gogarth. I gave him the hard pitch ;) We initially started on Resolution Direct but without the topo spent ages going the wrong way so changed over to a route I knew. The hard pitch seemed a lot harder this time. We climbed in thick spooky fog all day.

Hidden 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
mic_b 22/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Heidi
David_Gledson 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Superb route. Only hard for about 5 metres on the top pitch. Really great experience. Led 2 + 4.

with Alan
tompilgrem 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Great route! Lead p2+4

Matt Harle 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom Pilgrim
climbingpixie 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 & 5. Really enjoyed it - pitches 4 & 5 are excellent!

with Claire
Leelogs 10/Aug/13 AltLd

Led P1 and ran 3 and 4 together

Tadams 27/Jul/13 AltLd

alternate leads,lead 2nd and 4th.

with Mark Challoner
cbeard 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route! Jonny took a good whipper off the crux pitch, as slack in the rope snagged around a spike went unnoticed!

gavinpeach 13/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Boiling hot, tired, and dehydrated. Absolutely exhausted by the time I got to the crux and had to rest. Would love to do again on a cooler day.

with Kasia
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead
simon1965 24/Jun/13 AltLd
John Nuttall 24/Jun/13 AltLd
with Simon
Hardcore Pat 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Money pitch. Lead evens.

with Chris Vanderz
vanderz 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
freemanTom 08/Jun/13 AltLd dog

Bit of an epic in baking conditions. I led first pitch fine. Jurgen followed the chalk onto resolution. I attempted the direct then line to right before backing off. We got back on Gogarth. I failed dismally to lead crux and couldn't even second it clean.

with Jurgen
pie_eater_pete 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 01/Jun/13 AltLd
with pete sargeant
Hidden 28/May/13 AltLd O/S
Chris Wright 26/May/13 Lead
rd20 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

RD P2 and 4, PG P1, 3 and 5. Sustained and run out crux on P5. RD 1 Pt Aid (quick pull on QD P2)

with Patrick
paddygoodwinlondon 06/May/13 AltLd
greglad 05/May/13 AltLd dog
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Tightsgirl 26/Apr/13 2nd
arose 26/Apr/13 Lead

Free hex on pitch 4 right now! only one month old

Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
captain ??/2013 -
VPJB ??/2013 -
saffy ??/2013 AltLd O/S
LP 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led the easy pitches. Possibly the best positioned belay ledges I have ever sat on. Perfect day depsite the snow forecast.

Hidden 22/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 14/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 4. Great climbing though pitch 3 lets it down... Would be 3 stars if it weren't for this pitch... Top pitch was fairly moist, great effort to Heather leading it. Fairly miserable day at Gogarth today, cold and drizzly.

Jake Young 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Led all Pitches, Good day, no obvious line and shame there is a mega rest after the crux though I'm not complaining was a bit wrong handed.

with adam
benkelsey 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Shaun: "I want to learn to multi pitch", so we came to gogarth. I lead all, in 5 pitches, to give him a chance to lead some of them if wanted. Interesting p 2, 4, 5. enjoyed p4 so much I forgot to place any gear. HVS?

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 06/Oct/12 2nd
Dizz 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Ian l
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
danimal88 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

the top pitch had me worried. let mike who got up it with usual tenanciosness. the initial traverse is not the low one and goes with a confident approach

with Mike Met office
Marti999 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
JamieSparkes 06/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 06/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

First route at Gogarth and a really good one at that. Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5.

Hidden 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Paul Collins 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch 5, Cool Route!

with Jono
leon 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. I did the crux thinking it was the entry to the crux. Then when I saw easy climbing above me realized I'd already done the hard bit, which was nice!!

with Steven Davidson
Cardi 21/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Led P2 & P3. Went wrong at the top of P2, took a hanging belay possibly on Resolution Direct. Abseiled off after P3 due to dehydration.

with Andy T
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
Si dH 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led the 5a and 5b pitches (2 and 5 in guidebook). Thought pitch 4 was the best. I had to fight hard on the top crux - body had hit a wall after no sleep and a long day.

with Tom Lambert
dswansonlow 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Rafe
UncleMephisto 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Dougie Swanson Low
Hidden 08/Jul/12 -
soph 08/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

In the rain!

with Rob Grant
Rachel Slater 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1,3,5. Crux was very short lived.

Olli-C 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 2 & 4

martrin 19/Jun/12 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
HIGHTOWER 18/Jun/12 AltLd dog

We got off route and missed p3, belayed below crux. I took one rest on crux.

with Jonno
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
duncandarnell ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
James Oswald ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Date Is a guess

Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd
67hours 05/May/12 AltLd

Lead P2 & P4. To quote my partner as I lead my first 5a pitch: "I've never seen someone look like they're going to fall off so many times"

with Clay
Clay C 05/May/12 AltLd

Led P1, P3 & P5 - a good route. Ended up doing the last pitch of Devotee by accident and took one fall off this.

with George
Nicole Almond 07/Apr/12 2nd dog

IT WAS WET! The dry sections were good climbing, but when the rock became wet it was horrible! Quite scary on top pitch with what felt like a 5b move. However we ended with daylight which was an achievement! Overall good day :)

with Helen Rennard, Dad
Will Sheaff ?/Mar/12 AltLd

Led p1&3

JRae 26/Feb/12 Lead
with Anna D
CRiddiford 25/Feb/12 AltLd

paul p1,3,5 me 2,4 Good but top pitch is the best bit.

with Paul M
pmurdy 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Caroline R
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
alasdair19 ??/2012 -

guided by mb with tr

matt perks ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Max19 ??/2012 2nd
davebrox ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jonah
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Anna duckett ??/2012 2nd
with Jonny Reay
MarcusP 05/Nov/11 AltLd
with Martin, Jonnie
jonnie3430 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

We did it as the guidebook recommends, but in retrospect, running the first two and 3rd and 4th pitches together would have been better. 5th pitch is good fun!

with Martin, Marcus
Hidden 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Calder 25/Sep/11 AltLd dnf

Weather turned a bit (well, enough) so bailed off along Cordon Bleu P1. We'll be back...

with jeffb, Ste
jeffb 25/Sep/11 AltLd dnf
stemill 25/Sep/11 AltLd dnf

Led P2 (pumped silly). Weather turned at top of P3 so we decided to escape via Cordon Bleu rather than face the top pitch in the rain.

with Jeff, Graham
Ollie B 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route after work. Finishing in the dark.

with T.Forrester
Hidden 22/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Drew M 22/Sep/11 Lead
Batt 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Me p1,3,5. Good but hard! Fiddly rope work didn't nec go to plan! Wasn't entirely sure which but to go up beyond the e2 but think we got it right, look round the corner!

with Mel
Hidden 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Ruddy hard top pitch

with Joe
Hidden 27/Aug/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
chris wyatt 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead p2 and p5 (which is excellent) overall the route could do with a more consistent standard

Lenny 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with John
Jen Crook 02/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Colin Scotchford 23/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Em66 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Mat
emma Warren 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 2 and 5 pitches

with Catrin Thomas
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
GPN 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led p2 and p5. Excellent.

with Ian Lawton
Hidden 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
chriscarroll 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1, 3 and 4...nice

with Owain
owain86 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P2 + P5

with Chris
Hidden 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
PaulTanton 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with steve
Smelly Fox 30/May/11 AltLd

Had to rest on the rope when seconding to get out a couple of Steve's famous welded wires!

with Steve Addy
Dangerous Dave 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Wild Beast
Matthew Robinson 25/May/11 AltLd
with David
David Sherratt 23/May/11 Lead O/S
melonmike 14/May/11 AltLd

Lead pitches 2 and 4; began pitch 4 by heading up half of the crux pitch of resolution direct before downclimbing and starting again in the right place. Clean lead from the team on all pitches bar pitch 5; great attempt at a first E1 lead from Sarah, needed more lycra. Great adventure on a great route.

with liam brown, Sarah R
Jonas Paulsson 12/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches. Very nice route!

with Andi Turner
andi turner 12/May/11 AltLd

International Meet.

Dave Turnbull, BMC 11/May/11 AltLd
with Minke (Holland)
Hidden ?/May/11 AltLd
haydng 29/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
with Rob
tim newton 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Danjones 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Tim
thomasadixon 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, great belays! Lead 1st & 2nd (in one) and 5th.

with Mike, Becca
BeccaSnowden 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Brilliant! Top pitch felt hard and so high up!

with Mike, Tom
markalmack 11/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with james marjot
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
JEP ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Matt Cooke ??/2011 AltLd O/S
MariaT 24/Oct/10 2nd dog

Ewan strung the first two pitches, I took a 20ft lead fall on the chossy 3rd, sprained ankle. Mark lead out the 3rd, Ewan the 4th and then we had a nightmare on the 5th pitch. Topped out just after sunset.

Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd dog
rustaldo 19/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

fantastic route! think I went off route and did p2 of devotee by mistake, had the blinkers on and just followed the chalk.. the last pitch is epic in the howling wind and swirling rain. probably E2.

Ewan Russell 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

2nd and 5th. Good fun

with Alec
APRS 16/Oct/10 AltLd
mynyddresident 09/Oct/10 AltLd

2nd and last pitches. Hot and dehydrated by the last pitch.

with Kelly
al99 04/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

pitches 1,3 and 5!

with Andrew Bitmead
Ken Taylor 25/Sep/10 AltLd β
with Conan Harrod
Conan 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Ken Taylor
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd
Ianwesterby 17/Sep/10 2nd dog
alek 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Laurence Everitt 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1, 2 and 5

PeteH 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

First two pitches fun but short; third pitch a bit rubbish; top two pitches excellent. Final pitch encapsulated why I want to be able to climb E1-upwards multi-pitches.

Dave Thompson 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Martin
myoung 01/Sep/10 AltLd
Roger Cruse 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Mark
tom.e 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P5 (P3 and P4 run as one).

Andy Peak 1 21/Aug/10 AltLd
with pabage
pabbage 21/Aug/10 Lead

1 3 5

greenclimb 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
metal arms 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S


crimpy 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
schof 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Alice
Hidden 28/Jul/10 AltLd
hardoreVdiffBen 28/Jul/10 Lead dog

Lead P2 and P5 (Remus lead P1 and then P2+P3 together). Took a whipper on upper section!

with Remus
Dunx 27/Jul/10 AltLd
with Joe M
joeym 27/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Katy Nelson 25/Jun/10 2nd
with Ailsa/ Stu Mac
tomhull 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead top pitch, scary!!!

with mike thomas, sally wheatley
Guy Wilson 16/Jun/10 AltLd
with Stu
Hidden 31/May/10 -
Nick Rundall 30/May/10 Lead rpt

Lead 5a traverse, flake pitch and the 5b pitch for the first time

with Jon Taylor
3 Names 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
givemetea 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Vince
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 16/May/10 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 16/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd rpt
markfairbank 01/May/10 AltLd dog

Led the odd pitches which gave me the crux at the top. Traversed out fine and thought well that looks ok, turned out it was actually quite tricky - took a 25ft fall in fact. Had alittle rest, climbed back to my high point, bit more gear and with abit of huffing and puffing got it in the end! Great route :)

with Ian Moore
liam 22 ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
James B 11/Apr/10 AltLd dog

Led pitches 1, 3-4 combined. Dogged final pitch

with Nick
Hidden 28/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Cheshire Dave ??/2010 AltLd

Chris fell off top pitch. I reckon top is harder than Resolution Direct.

with Chris
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Hidden 19/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
robertmichaeladams 10/Oct/09 AltLd

nice climb, wicked last pitch

with Miranda, Tom
tomdude 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

brilliant. led 2 and 5. last pitch was a bit of a struggle! and someone threw both size 2 cams into the sea....

with miranda, rob
Tomprusk 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 04/Sep/09 AltLd
Nick Nitro ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent Route

Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 2nd dog
Luke Brooks ?/Aug/09 AltLd
spum ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with vardy
Dave Searle 30/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

in about an hour

with will sim
Dave Rumney 27/Jul/09 2nd

P2/3 & P5 (alt with devotee)

with Tanya Milner
Glyn 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sally
Dave Rumney 19/Jul/09 2nd

Alternated with Devotee pitches

with Tanya Milner
malcoid 18/Jul/09 -
with Pete
kevg 17/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Good route on a lovely, sunny evening after a 6 hour drive in the pouring rain. Continued straight up after the traverse left on pitch 2, so missed out pitch 3. Pete led up from the right and through the crux to the top.

with Pete M
Neil Adams 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Great route, with a pokey wee crux. Ellen led P1, I led the rest.

with Andy & Ellen
Hidden 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Bennykr 22/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 19/Jun/09 AltLd rpt
gregoritos ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with robin
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd
J1PEF ?/Jun/09 AltLd
daveclarke5 28/May/09 AltLd dnf
with Andy
Hidden 24/May/09 AltLd
Hidden 21/May/09 AltLd O/S
barni 12/May/09 AltLd O/S

1st 3rd 5th

with ronnie
Hidden 11/May/09 AltLd
maybe_si 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with jez
mattyork2 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

1st and third pitches.

with John Vincent
victim of mathematics 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3&4 (ran together). Incredible route, a bit like the world's best VS with a cool E1 on top of it.

with Brian
mux 13/Apr/09 AltLd

Did the devotee finish

with Dave Almond
Becky E 12/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3 & 4. Great route, glorious day. Fantastic way to spend Easter Sunday.

Bristoldave 10/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led P 3-5

with douglas
Hidden 10/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Paulww 10/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Ryan
mulletcocktail2000 10/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

classic. 5 pitch sea cliff climbing, every pitch different, saving the crux to the end. classic. take big cams for the groove pitch.

with paul
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd
Jez ?/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Carly 18/Mar/09 AltLd dog
with Richard
Hidden 18/Mar/09 AltLd
treehugger 14/Feb/09 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Sally Lisle ??/2009 -
RachelP 27/Sep/08 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Hidden 21/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
decs 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Sam and Susie
sgl 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with duncan & Susie
centurion05 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with rusty
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd dog
Chrismoore94 20/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/08 AltLd
AJM 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Great route Led p2 & p4. That 5a pitch is quite trying.......

Ed Booth 10/May/08 AltLd O/S

Top pitch was quite goey for first thing in the morning with a virus!

Will1 ?/May/08 Lead O/S
C coldwell-storry ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Neil Chelton
TiffTiff 06/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
feilx 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Catt and Tiff
tlmarjot ?/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with James Marjot
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Marcus ??/2008 -
smallerrich 24/Oct/07 AltLd

Amazing climb, top pitch is 5b in the book, almost got blown off by griffin helicopter practising in the bay, haha

Rich Kirby 27/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
Rachel Somerville 27/Aug/07 AltLd
with Richard K
Hidden 25/Aug/07 AltLd
rob1 25/Aug/07 AltLd dog
with Dave Williams
Different Steve 24/Aug/07 AltLd dog

Led P2, lobette on the tricky crux sequence on P3

with Guy Reid
Hidden 13/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
Rich Mayfield 03/Aug/07 AltLd
ewen 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
John Kettle 28/Apr/07 AltLd
spacey 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd rpt
Brown 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Beth
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Pete Graham ??/2007 AltLd
with Rick Graham
ritchierich 28/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dickson
Hidden 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 07/Oct/06 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd and 4th pitches.

Martin Haworth 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Andy
david morse ?/Oct/06 AltLd
with chris todd
Zoomer 23/Sep/06 AltLd

Fantastic route, 4th pitch the best. Don't go wrong on last pitch and head up crack too early, it's 5c and Paul took a big lob off it.

with Paul Chiddle
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Bern ?/Jul/06 -
dan gibson 12/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with john nuttal
danm 28/May/06 AltLd
with Fat Ste
datoon 28/May/06 AltLd O/S
with RT
Coel Hellier ?/May/06 AltLd
with Fiend
Dale ?/Apr/06 Lead dog

My first E1 lead. Johny lead the 5a pitch which felt hard. The rock was really soapy. On the 5b pitch slipped on soapy rock fell b4 i even got to crux not a good start just got up the crux ace route.

with johny
ritchierich 20/Feb/06 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2006 -
bsu20c ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Dom Whillans ??/2006 Lead
with a.crook
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
A Crook 28/Aug/05 AltLd

Yes I took the traditonal 30ft whipper off the crux!

michael burrows 12/Aug/05 AltLd

epic,dave took 30ft fall on the last pitch.

with dangerous dave
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
simon kimber ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with Chris Stirling
cem 25/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Led p 1, 3 & 5

with Jamie, Graham Dolman
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/05 -
Hidden 06/May/05 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd
LittleJoe 27/Mar/05 AltLd dog

Ed took a big fall on the easiest pitch - serves him right for testing the gear with a two-handed tug!

with Ed, Dad
Shaw Brown ??/2005 AltLd O/S

Crux is well protected but having the strength to place it is another matter. Great climb

with David Jones
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Phill Mitch ??/2005 Lead O/S
with john d
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
Mark A Humphries 16/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Me 2nd (5a) and 5th (5b) pitches

Hidden 04/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/04 2nd O/S
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Jul/04 Lead
frost ?/Jul/04 AltLd
with N Griffiths
Dave Kerr 12/Jun/04 AltLd
with Karl Atherton, Jim Tanner
dicky79 ??/2004 2nd dog
with Mike Bottomley & Andy Houseman
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Urgles ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Mick B
Hidden 28/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Samuel P 28/Aug/03 2nd
with Ric the Guide, Gareth
ian caton ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Abi & Paul
John Pickles 20/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Tim Blakemore
lukea 02/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Al
Jon Pilling ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Ben Hardy
Hidden ?/May/03 AltLd
chrishedgehog ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Brian Rodgers ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Siderunner ??/2003 AltLd O/S

I only led a couple of the easier pitches

with Paul M
Hidden ??/2003 -
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd

ok route, very broken climbing

with Dave A
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2003 -
Hidden ?/May/02 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd
timmy-ts ??/2002 AltLd
with Jules Turner
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
bullybones ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 -
with Martin Peters
lost.arrow 07/Jul/01 AltLd
with Gill Heartly
Hidden 16/May/01 AltLd
philhilo ??/2001 AltLd O/S
Chad123 ??/2001 AltLd O/S

Went off route on the last pitch and did an E2 variation by mistake.

with Blonde Tom
Rich Kirby 06/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 28/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 2nd O/S
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
with Jon
Rock Fairy ??/2000 AltLd

led the easier pitches.

with Carl
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Pete
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
VPJB ??/2000 AltLd
jfmchivall ?/Apr/99 AltLd
dickypips ??/1999 AltLd O/S

led 5b pitch

with john richards
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
nickdonohue 23/May/98 AltLd
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Scott McRae 19/Jul/97 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd (5a) and 4th pitches (big slab.) Almost fell off seconding last pitch - pumped! Awesome pitch.

with Martin Hore
michael burrows 06/Jul/97 AltLd rpt
with mark ryan
tlr 12/Apr/97 AltLd
with Pete D
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/96 Lead
Dave Rumney 07/Jul/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Ian Jones ??/1996 Lead rpt

Still think the crux is thuggish.

with Karen Ghiselli
Andy Edgar ??/1996 -
robtrooper ??/1996 Lead
mattnuttall ?/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Hargreaves
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
TheAndyBarker ?/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 02/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
Cowflinger ??/1994 -
with Tim Emmett
NeilGriffiths ??/1994 AltLd
with Duncs
BigHairyIan 01/Sep/93 AltLd O/S

Took an impromptu day off work and bagged a brilliant route! Probably the last Hard Rock route of my climbing career...

with Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
mark-abz 22/Aug/93 AltLd
with Simon K
Steve Crowe ?/Aug/93 -
with KM
Okecroak 31/Jul/93 AltLd

Quote of the day "naplam this cliff" said the american team struggling with the prickly green lichen

with M Mercy
Chris Ellis 10/Apr/93 AltLd
with Dan Morgan
Mick King 18/Oct/92 AltLd

Lead P2 & 4

with Mark Lavender
Campbell42 12/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Peter Calam
Grezza ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Mick RIP
Roget 02/Jun/92 AltLd O/S
with jon
AlanLittle ?/Jun/92 AltLd
with John Hynes
pingora 23/May/92 Lead O/S
with A Blair
auld al ?/May/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
richparry ??/1992 -
whispering nic 31/Jul/91 AltLd
with Graham Iles
prcleary ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
prcleary ??/1991 -

Approx date

Hidden 08/Sep/90 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/90 AltLd O/S
paulpaint ?/Sep/90 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/90 AltLd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/90 AltLd
AndrewP 08/Jul/90 Lead
sadams ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Mark Bonham
Hidden 06/May/90 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Nick Biven ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Andy Say 16/Sep/89 Lead
Neil R 27/May/89 AltLd O/S
with Richard W
keefe ??/1989 -
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Hidden 20/Mar/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1988 -
michael burrows 02/Aug/87 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
steveboote ??/1987 Lead

Retreated after Pete Corbishley concussed by rockfall

Hidden 15/Jun/86 AltLd
Roy Stuart ?/May/86 AltLd O/S
with Dave Waters
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 07/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
Steve Crowe 21/Jul/85 AltLd dog
andy gittins ??/1985 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1985 Lead
with Graham Evans
jcw ??/1985 -
with Simon Donowho
Richard Weller 19/Oct/84 AltLd
with john sanders
charlesmfrench 16/Jun/84 AltLd O/S

S,L,2,L,2. Again with Mark 1/5/2004. L,2,L,2,L. Again with Chris and Emma 2009?

Gezzer ??/1983 AltLd
with Merv Dudley
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1983 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Pete Nugent 10/Oct/82 -

Excellent route led p2 & 4

TonyF ?/Jun/82 Lead O/S

Climbed with John O'Reilly

tapley 17/Oct/81 AltLd
with John Sumner
rogerskews 01/Nov/80 -
with Keith Jenkins
Hidden ?/Oct/80 AltLd
Nevil ?/Sep/80 AltLd
Hammy 15/Jun/80 AltLd
with John Girdley
babymoac 26/May/80 Lead
with MTW
Hidden 12/Apr/80 Lead
Chris Terrey 22/Mar/80 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi, Mike O'Brien
PaulHermes ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ??/1980 -
steve L 12/May/79 AltLd
with Charlie
Hidden 21/Jun/78 AltLd
neilh ?/Jun/78 AltLd
with Ian riddington
Mike Owen 29/Apr/78 AltLd O/S
with Pete Craig
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd O/S
with Tommy Curtis
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
RichardMc 28/Aug/77 Lead O/S
with Dave Langmead
Mark Kemball 16/Aug/77 AltLd
with Sarah Bridge, George Mumford
GeoffG 12/Jul/77 AltLd
with tony bowker
GeoffG ?/Jul/77 AltLd
with tony bowker
uphillnow ?/May/77 AltLd

I did crux.

with Al Bennett
Hidden 17/Apr/76 AltLd
Marcus ??/1976 -
Falko 04/Apr/74 Lead O/S

10th anniversary of first ascent of the eponymous route - and my first route on Gogarth!

with TRE
Sean Kelly ?/Sep/73 AltLd

Found the top pitch hard for HVS!

with Bob Millward
Dave Musgrove 29/May/73 AltLd
with Mike Butler
rockofades ?/May/73 Lead O/S
with MC
Tom V ??/1972 AltLd
with Dave Garner
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
mikej 22/Jun/69 AltLd
with Bill Church
Hidden 12/Apr/69 AltLd
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 118
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 71
Votes cast 107
Style of ascent
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