UKC

Rockfax Description
The clean groove is longer than it looks and gives fine sustained climbing. Route finding isn't a problem. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THe large obvious groove, harder toward the top.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ingle Routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Gogarth life list

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 11 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! Toughest E1 I've ever been on, but my fat fingers wouldn't fit lower crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route! Toughest E1 I've ever been on, but my fat fingers wouldn't fit lower crux.
Bruise Apprentice 8 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Seagulls no longer nesting but have the fattest fledgling I've ever seen, and are hanging out on the ledge a couple of meters left of the base of the route. They were extremely relaxed when a group of 12 coasteerers rocked up and parked themselves on the same ledge. Climbing Emulator won't interfere with the fledgling but you'll want to move quickly on if traversing over to routes further along on Main Cliff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seagulls no longer nesting but have the fattest fledgling I've ever seen, and are hanging out on the ledge a couple of meters left of the base of the route. They were extremely relaxed when a group of 12 coasteerers rocked up and parked themselves on the same ledge. Climbing Emulator won't interfere with the fledgling but you'll want to move quickly on if traversing over to routes further along on Main Cliff.
napoleon_dynamite 16 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 16 May 2021 - there is a seagul nesting right at the bottom of this. Disappointing to look at this route and not climb it, but you're bang out of order if you decide to belay next to this nest - we felt bad disturbing it before picking a different line. Looks like it's been there a few weeks from the size of the egg so hopefully will hatch soon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 16 May 2021 - there is a seagul nesting right at the bottom of this. Disappointing to look at this route and not climb it, but you're bang out of order if you decide to belay next to this nest - we felt bad disturbing it before picking a different line. Looks like it's been there a few weeks from the size of the egg so hopefully will hatch soon.
Sardien 14 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The maillon on the ab rope is very rusty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The maillon on the ab rope is very rusty

Logged Ascents

772 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 151
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 148
Votes cast 131
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Breaking the Barrier

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)

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