Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff >
 
Emulator*** E1 5b

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[Firing up the crack, 2 kb]THe large obvious groove, harder toward the top.

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Firing up the crack © Bill Parker
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 283 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Andrew Wilson - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with jon stewart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/14

maazin! really hard work all the way up, gives you just enough time to recover one part of your body before the next bit starts screaming in agony. Also has an awesome layback in the middle of all that bridging and jamming.
rbharries - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/14 with neils EW

Obviously brilliant climb, shit climber... Too tired... Lack of technique... Hard stuff
Louis Miller - 2nd dog - 29/Sep/13 with Mark Westerman, Vicky Foxwell

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 29/Sep/13

cem - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/13 with EeFu Thong, Graham Dolman

Fantastic 3D climbing
UncleMephisto - 2nd - 18/Sep/13 with Sam Wainwright

Pumpy route with some thin crack climbing in places.
chris smith - Lead dog - 09/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/13

Samuel Wainwright - Lead - Sep/13

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Ian

admackie - Lead - 24/Aug/13

ian caton - 2nd rpt - 24/Aug/13 with Abi

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13

sopaz - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

henry francis - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13

newtonmore - 25/Jun/13

Bennykr - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Bubbles, Duncan

Beautiful crack line which is solid 5b from bottom to top. Couple of rests on the upper section.
Palindrome - 2nd - 09/Jun/13

greglad - 08/Jun/13

mark4344 - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with stu and Dereck

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/13

ben1987 - 2nd β - 25/May/13 with Adam Coles

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/13

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Tom Doldon

jordan taylor - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - Apr/13

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/13 with Tom Ripley

As mock student MIA
Lucylou19 - 2nd - 22/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

Amazing rout. Apart from when I lost my helmet to Neptune.
Hinchrn - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/12 with Matt Rust

tough E1, harder than some E2s. plenty of gear, nearly lost a cam. hinchy dropped his lid in the sea! E1 5b ***
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/12 with Tom Hinch

thesnowchimp - 2nd - 29/Sep/12

guided by me TR and MB then linked with HVS in upper tier
alasdair19 - Sep/12

Hard!
wi11 - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12 with Max

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 20/Jul/12 with Ruth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Tom Lambert

Lenny - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Phil .N

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/12

Well pleased with this one!!
Sardien - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Helena Robinson

Didn't find it too bad, great to see some improvement(Dunc said I cruised it :D). Sustained 5a with a 5b move around half way. Not quite an onsight because I did try it about a year and a half ago, but I couldn't remember anything of it this time, except for having backed off after a few meters. Satisfying to come back and make short work of it.
JezH - Lead β - 25/Jun/12 with Dunc Darnell

Rachel Somerville - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with Richard Wheeldon

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/12

Sublimely Sustained E1 climbing, with a rest mid height. Brilliant
A Crook - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Dave Garry

When you start to repeat routes you can say its beacause you have done alot in the area. not sure what you say when its the third time on it.
mux - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with A Crook

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Caroline

duncandarnell - 2nd - Jun/12

Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Dimitrius Perdikou

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Mark Hounslea, Anita Grey

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with James Oswald

Ace lead from Colin, looked very solid. Very much harder if you go completely direct at the top
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Colin Angus

tunaficiency - Lead β - 12/May/12 with kate surry

Matt Cooke - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Tom Jagger

Sustained 5b all the way. Led this about 12 years ago; forgot how tough it was!
Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 06/May/12 with John Brannock

Fingear shredding tastic! The corner just goes on and on, brilliant though.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/12

Bob Windsor - AltLd - 05/May/12 with Rick Graham

Hidden - Lead - 04/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/12 with Al

Tom Livingstone - 2nd β - 01/Mar/12 with Ollie Burrows

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/12 with T.Livinstone

Captain Gear - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

1 rest, way too pumped!
Richard Kemble - Lead dog - 19/Nov/11 with Gwen

Hidden - Lead - 13/Nov/11

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Tom Nichols

mariannekhoo - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Gareth Hall

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Marianne Khoo

Johns' epic lead of the trip. Bloody excellent route and definitely one to return and lead once comfortable at E1. Some excellent layback moves. Belay at the top is iffy given the dodgy crack in the boulder that widens when you add a cam.
Jonny Nick - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/11

steve.warrington - Lead dog - 28/Aug/11 with Stuart Llewellyn

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with loundsy

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/11

Blurgy319 - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/11 with Lee Wales

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/11

Excellent. Annoyingly had a silly slippage off a slippy foothold due to lack of attention. Otherwise clean.
Dizz - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with peter h, David B

too hot for me to enjoy fully, good led by Jim. Must go back and lead on a cooler day
Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Jim

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Graeme

emma Warren - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with matt stygall

martrin - Lead - 24/Jun/11 with Sarah Kekus

Hidden - 11/Jun/11

owain86 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Chris

Backed off about a quarter of the way up as I didn't fancy it...good lead owain!
chriscarroll - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Owain

hepitt - Lead β - 05/Jun/11 with Rob Pitt

Bex_M - 2nd - 05/Jun/11

NickJH - 2nd - Jun/11 with LiamG

brockers - Lead - 30/May/11 with Maggie Bass

A superb pitch.
Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 30/May/11 with Steve Addy

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/11

sustained and relentless - whew!
givemetea - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Gary Wong

garywong - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with Roslyn McKendry

Blurgy319 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11 with Mark Freestone

Mega. Found the laybacking very hard, but then I allways do.
HIGHTOWER - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Mark Amyes

hetaher - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Bubbles

laurelfan - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Tania

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 10/May/11

In the wet - not easy but still ace!
ksjs - 2nd rpt - 09/May/11 with Paul S

cracking corner. took over lead from tom as his vagina was well and truly gopping today.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11 with Thomas Martin

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - 2nd - 22/Mar/11 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/11

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

ollieben - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

tonanf - Lead - 2011 with biaba and neil

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Julian Wedd - Lead - 2011 with A. Howarth

Hidden - 2011

ollieben - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with duncan cambell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Chris Gooder

Ian Jones - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/10 with Dan Moore

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/10

Painful jamming
AlexD - 2nd - 17/Sep/10 with Alasdair

alek - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Laurence Everett

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Alek Kumar

Jenny Crook - 2nd - 04/Sep/10 with Rob Patchett

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/10

That's a real E1 - tough
colenn - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Peter Britton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10

Helen Gibson - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/10 with Richard

Great pitch, lots of jammed friends in it. Tells its own story...
Cheshire Dave - 2nd - 10/Jul/10 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/10

mynyddresident - Lead - 30/Jun/10 with Mandy T

Alex T (RAFMA) - AltLd RP - 20/Jun/10 with Rimon

Stumpyham - Lead - 19/Jun/10 with jake

metal arms - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/10

RachelP - 2nd - 09/May/10 with Andy T, Jamie

markfairbank - 2nd - 01/May/10 with Ian Moore

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Andy Reeve

Glyn - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with David Fountain

davefount - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Glyn

Hidden - 2010

alasdair19 - 2010

soph - 2010

farmus21 - Lead - 28/Sep/09 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/09

Foot slipped...gutted!
Leelogs - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/09 with Chris

david morse - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/09 with mikey R

melonmike - 2nd dog - 06/Aug/09

This is nice.
Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/09 with will sim

jored - 27/Jul/09 with Ryan

mulletcocktail2000 - 2nd β - 27/Jul/09 with john

Sustained. I was somewhat surprised how difficult it was as, going by Paul Williams, I was expecting a nice mellow HVS ;-)
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Oli

My first route at main cliff! What a great climb
mlmatt - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with chris jones

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/09

Absolute classic! pretty sustained throughout with a huge amount of variety!
Tomprusk - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Dad

climbed to gain start of cordon bleu
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Sarah

Dave Rumney - 2nd - 25/May/09 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/09

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09

brilliant climb. Lots of different techniques, including hand and finger jams. Sustained with good gear
nigel pearson - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with derick

switch - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/09

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with Tom Eagle

Carly - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/09 with Richard

the juicy dangler - Lead dog - 18/Mar/09 with carlene hill

Sgt. Vest - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/09 with sophie wilmes

sonnenstern - Lead dog - 22/Feb/09 with Will Malcolm

Seymore Butt - 2009

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2009 with Helen Pitt

barni - 2nd - 26/Sep/08 with Northern

thompson1000 - Lead - 26/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08

Meg tried to lead this first, but had to lower off at the crux. As a result gear was in place until about 2/3 height
Sam W - Lead - 13/Sep/08 with Megan Freeth

The Bad Cough - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/08 with Lee Bonner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08

very awkward, looks like you can bridge all the way up but its at a difficult angle.
RocknRoll - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Rob Gibson

traversed around blank section near the top - which i guess is the crux!
Tom Eagle - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/08 with skygod78

spacey - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/08 with paul evans

Hidden - Lead - Jun/08

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 08/May/08 with Guido and Chuck

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/08

how good is this! chunky E1 with sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. 3 stars all the way (corner maybe a bit clammy / damp at times so watch those jams)
ksjs - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08 with sarah

feilx - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Mike Soldner

Matt Vigg - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2nd - 2008 with John Hynes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Brown - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

antpayne2003 - 2nd - Sep/07 with Richard Measures

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07

fran04 - 2nd - 2007

mux - 2007

scorky345 - Lead - Nov/06 with Fran Blunt

datoon - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/06 with MJ

VS in my Dad's guide book. I was happy with E1!
Shaw Brown - Lead - 29/May/06 with Jeb

Hidden - Lead - 28/May/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

Hidden - May/05

ian caton - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Abi

Scotsken - 2nd - Aug/03 with Si Ball

cem - 2nd O/S - 18/Jan/03 with Graham Dolman

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 2003 with Joe Thompson

Brian Rodgers - Lead - 2003 with Phil Leng

akhughes - Lead - 2003

VPJB - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/02

Hidden - 2nd - May/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 30/May/01 with Paul Tucker

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 12/May/00 with Hugh

ChrisJD - Lead - 2000 with Clare

philhilo - AltLd O/S - 2000 with brian rodgers

Hidden - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

WB - 1998

craig h - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/97 with Janet Hannah

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/97

tlr - AltLd - 12/Apr/97 with Pete D

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/96

michael burrows - Lead - 09/Mar/96 with richard parry

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/95

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/94

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1994 with Adrian Draper

steve taylor - 1994

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/93 with Hywel Jones, John Williams

with ken
auld al - 2nd O/S - May/93

Hidden - 1993

malc - 2nd - 11/Aug/92 with N Boyd

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/91

whispering nic - Lead - 31/Jul/91 with Graham Iles

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/91

Andy Say - Lead - 27/Apr/91

Hidden - 2nd - 1991

Dave Musgrove - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/90 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 09/Apr/90 with Dad

nigehughes - Lead - Apr/90 with Mark Jones

Nick Biven - Lead - 31/Mar/90

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

AlanLittle - Lead - Sep/89 with Carl Blakeley

9am start, was cold
michael burrows - Lead rpt - 01/May/88 with mike doyle

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1988

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - Aug/87

neilh - 2nd - 26/May/86 with dave croker

andy gittins - 1985

GuyM - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/83

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1983 with Phillippa Mathews

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/81

Hidden - Lead - Feb/80

Mike Owen - 16/Jun/79 with Elaine Watson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 04/Mar/79 with Malcolm Littley

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

mikej - 2nd - 06/Nov/77 with John Bickerdyke

Nigel Bond - Lead - 02/Jul/77 with Tony Cuddy

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/77

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 29/May/73 with Mike Butler

Tom V - 1971

mikej - Lead - 27/Oct/68 with Wil Hurford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Phil Ingle, Hidden, gavinpeach, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Kevin Robert Jones, Phil Layton, Dave 88, Alex.M-M., Hidden, Hidden, rustaldo, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Different Steve, Hidden, Dan Lane, Calder, Lawrie Brand, Alan100, Owen W-G, Hidden, hepitt, Hidden, Gezzer, Hidden, Swotson, Hidden, richardr, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 211
hard E20 of 72
E20 of 72
easy E21 of 72
hard E138 of 72
E130 of 72
easy E13 of 72
hard HVS0 of 72
HVS0 of 72
easy HVS0 of 72
hard 5c0 of 71
5c0 of 71
easy 5c7 of 71
hard 5b22 of 71
5b42 of 71
easy 5b0 of 71
hard 5a0 of 71
5a0 of 71
easy 5a0 of 71
3 Stars57 of 68
2 Stars9 of 68
1 Star2 of 68
0 Stars0 of 68
Bag of .....0 of 68
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Style of ascent

Lead138 of 283 (48.8%)
Followed89 of 283 (31.4%)
Alt Leads11 of 283 (3.9%)
Unknown45 of 283 (15.9%)

'Climbed'139 of 283 (49.1%)
clean O/S115 of 283 (40.6%)
clean β6 of 283 (2.1%)
clean rpt13 of 283 (4.6%)
clean RP1 of 283 (0.4%)
dogged9 of 283 (3.2%)