15m. A superb and spooky route, a classic Staffordshire headgame. Go up a crack then step left onto a small ledge. Climb the vague rib above, past a ghost of a bolt to a big ledge (or climb the arete direct). Go over the btop bulge by a thin crack, or climb direct.

C.Ford (1pt.aid), 1977 J.Woodward (ffa bolt pro), 1986 I.&C. Dunn (no bolt) 1971

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List.

Hannes B 21/Nov Lead O/S
with Ian Acker
profonrock ?/Sep Lead dnf

Need some beta on the line, as have twice chickened out with hands on the rounded top 'ledge' below the final block. Guidebooks give different lines - old ones say go up the arete at E3 5b (!), whilst UKC photo has a totally different thread from the one I had (mine was 10ft right), and looks like it was climbed way L of the arete. It's hard to know which way to go, as most of the 'ledge' is v rounded, and going for 'trial and error' looks like it could end badly!

with John Gilbert
PeteWilson 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt

been wanting to do this for ages, glad to finally get it done! :)

with Pete B, Andi T, Dave
PeteWilson 09/Mar/14 TR O/S
with Andi T, Dave, Andrew Graham
Alex Winter 22/May/12 Lead RP

Abbed to pre-place thread, as it looked a right faff putting in on lead.

Hidden 12/May/12 Lead
Jon Read 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Good moves in a great position.

with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
Gus ??/2007 Lead O/S
IOAN D 19/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with andrew (Tony)
Roget 16/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
PeteWilson, Ropeboy, thefuturesmiles, Peakphil
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