|37m. Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route originally had a prominent protruding peg, but it has now been climbed without this and is consequently now bolder. |
1) 6b, 38m. Climb up to a large pocket (large nut). Technical moves lead slightly leftwards then rightwards to regain the line of pockets and soon some gear. Follow pockets and a vague crack-line to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step right then go easily up to belay on the flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © ROCKFAX
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. The demise of the peg has made the crux more serious but a ground fall can probably still be avoided with sharp belaying. After the crux the route blasts direct up the rest of the wall to two decaying pegs where a move right brings good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first.
Photo: First ascent of Barbarossa, Gogarth Upper Tier © Al Evans