Barbarossa*** E7 6b
[First ascent of Barbarossa, Gogarth Upper Tier, 2 kb]37m.

Rockfax Description
Start directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. The route originally had a prominent protruding peg, but it has now been climbed without this and is consequently now bolder.
1) 6b, 38m. Climb up to a large pocket (large nut). Technical moves lead slightly leftwards then rightwards to regain the line of pockets and soon some gear. Follow pockets and a vague crack-line to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step right then go easily up to belay on the flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Brilliant climbing up the centre of the wall. The demise of the peg has made the crux more serious but a ground fall can probably still be avoided with sharp belaying. After the crux the route blasts direct up the rest of the wall to two decaying pegs where a move right brings good holds and the top. Benefits from a good brushing first.

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.

Photo: First ascent of Barbarossa, Gogarth Upper Tier © Al Evans
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 16 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Al Evans - 2014 with Jim Moran

Ab inspected lower section. Succeeded on 3rd attempt after taking 2 falls from the crux. Brilliant route, felt E6 in this style but reckon would definitely be E7 for onsight.
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead β - 15/Aug/09 with Chris Barnes

tigertiger - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

buzby78 - AltLd - 20/Sep/97 with Parnaby

shark - Lead dnf - 23/Jun/96 with Dave Marsh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/94

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/94 with Nick Wharton

Climbed in borrowed Boreal Lazers - size 6 1/2.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead RP - 1993 with Timmy Bonner

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with owen jones

Mike Owen - 01/Jun/89 with Elaine Owen

keefe - 1989

mark mcgowan01 - 1987

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

dominic lee - Lead O/S - Aug/82 with daniel lee

1 fall at crux. 7th free ascent ? Dave Musgrove thinks this is E7. wow!
Ian Jones - 2nd β - Jul/82 with Chris Gore

Total votes cast 12
hard E80 of 4
E80 of 4
easy E80 of 4
hard E70 of 4
E70 of 4
easy E71 of 4
hard E61 of 4
E62 of 4
easy E60 of 4
hard 6c0 of 4
6c0 of 4
easy 6c0 of 4
hard 6b3 of 4
6b1 of 4
easy 6b0 of 4
hard 6a0 of 4
6a0 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
3 Stars3 of 4
2 Stars1 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.