Rockfax Description
A stunning climb for the grade. Its needs a long dry spell for the initial crack to not be damp. A late-afternoon ascent will often allow the sun to help with this. Start below a large flake/chimney, where you will undoubtedly start to feel the terror associated with this route, especially if you don't have any very large cams (size 5s are handy).
1) 5c, 45m. Thrutch up the start of the chimney until you are forced into a rather alarming layback sequence, from here it is a race against time to get established above the wide and committing crack. Bridge up the groove above with much relief until you are level with a line of jugs. Swing rightwards on these (easy but little in the way of gear) to a belay on the slab.
2) 5b, 35m. Move up and right from the belay, and try and find the easiest way through the bulge onto the slab above - this involves a bold sequence that requires a steady head. Move up and left across the slab to a small ledge near its apex, below the overhang. Move down and left and make an exciting, but ultimately easy step across a groove. Move up and left to a good belay in the corner.
3) 4c, 40m. Move up to join the last pitch of Dream... and follow this left to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Wide Cracks, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Thrutch and Clutch, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Ramon Marin 27/Sep AltLd O/S

Second pitch

with dave pickford
jamesturnbull 11/Aug AltLd

Did pitch one. Greasy and hard but awesome. Bit out of practice at the mo. Would be so much easier bone dry. Gogarth is awesome!

with John Crook
dan ely 11/Jun Lead dog

pumped and intimidated would be a understatement. Did direct finish to p1 then one nice easy pitch to get off. Two silver dragon cams where enough for the offwidth although one over cammed

with steve london
stevoland 11/Jun 2nd dog


Duncan Campbell 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Ergh. Right battle. pissed around facing the wrong way then once I did it the right way I couldn't reach anywhere to get the friend 5 in. Will borrow a big Green Camalot next time ( or grow longer arms). Horrible wide-cracks

with Bubbles
Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd
westaway 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Simon Smith, Imelda Neale
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

graunchy, greasy and terrifying (don't think i had the right cams) horrible.

with George
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
tim newton 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
James Oswald 07/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Really really good. Lead P2, tim lead p1 and p3. I needed to rest on the 1st pitch because I couldn't get tim's big cam out. Getting out of the chimney is hard (horrible chimney), great juggy traverse to the belay. The 2nd pitch was hard as it was a little too hot...

Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
Owain Llewelyn 19/May/13 AltLd

With the Golden Bough finish. Bottom section was soaking and felt desperate, got pretty pumped which made the rest of the pitch feel harder than it should have done.Second pitch was fantastic. Golden Bough is a great way to finish it off, good gear and just four or five steep moves. Amazing route.

with Gareth E
captain ??/2013 -
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead
Misha 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing! 50m ab down the Uhuru wall into the very impressive bottom of Wen Zawn. The P1 offwidth looked decidedly nasty. Thrutch, thrutch to a good body jam position from which I clipped an in situ nut (would have been easy enough to place my own). A couple more contortions led to a crazy bridging position. Couldn't quite reach an in situ friend deep in the crack but managed to get a decent cam 4 next to it. Then it was go, go, go for the layback! Paused for a bit half way up it but figured that ot was best to just carry on. Strenuous but ultimately short lived. Only about E1 from the end of the layback but felt hard. The airy traverse was easy but thought provoking. Phil made short work of P2, which was pushing 5c to get round the corner and equally exciting to second. P1 & 2 weren't enough so did the Golden Bough finish, which was steep and pumpy but well supplied with good holds (even if the largest jug looked like it was about to fall off) and gear (sorry, Phil, leader's prerogative to lace it!). Don't think it merits E4 but certainly hard E3. A superb, memorable route - hardly any easy ground and quality all the way. Took five hours - started P1 at 2pm, finished at 7pm.

with Phil
philhilo 28/Aug/11 AltLd

Wanted to lead P1 but thought better of it when I saw the difficulties placing the gear. Glad I didn't as it was very hard work getting up it, and getting the gear out was desparate. Came very close to getting it clean but ran out of gas inches from the good foothold on the layback. Lead P2 which was awesome and pretty stiff for 5b - would give it E2 5b/c on its own. Misha did the Golden Bough finish at E4 5c. Good holds all the way but v steep but with plenty of gear. Required lots of technical bridging. Ran out of gas again inches from top of steep section - gear removal had used a lot of energy. Impressive lead from Misha.

with misha
david morse 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 is a contender for the best pitch at Gogarth. An awesome route

willoates 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Swam the zawn, fell out from deep in the crack, got straight back on the correct way and crushed it. really good, great line and finishing on the final pitch of dream was awesome.

nige 11/Jun/11 AltLd
with mark hounslea
Marcus ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 AltLd
with Sam Underhill
Barry Kerslake 30/May/10 2nd O/S
with Luke F
dan gibson 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
with john nuttal
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
datoon 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with K
khawk 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with DT
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
centurion05 22/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, amazing position, one of the best routes at gogarth

with chris thorne
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
WB 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Guy
GuyM 01/Aug/04 AltLd
with will
Ropeboy 16/May/04 AltLd
Billg ??/2002 AltLd

I led P2 - glad it wasn't P1 whch was really greasy!

Hidden ??/2001 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/May/99 AltLd
with Andy Pedley
Hidden ?/May/99 AltLd O/S
sadams 05/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
Hidden 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/95 AltLd rpt
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
jamiev 08/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Greg Cunningham
Steve Crowe 31/Aug/93 Lead dog

Very damp start, one rest on a very wet hold, otherwise onsight!

with KM
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1993 Lead O/S

Surely E4? Bold and strenuous.

with Ian Berry
charlesmfrench 12/Jul/92 AltLd O/S


with Julian Fisher
Nigel Coe ??/1992 AltLd
with Ray Mardon
jfletcher 07/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with David Gilkes
Bruce Kerr 18/May/91 AltLd
with Perric Crellin
Hidden ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1990 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1990 AltLd
with John Mckeever
Bob 10/Sep/89 AltLd O/S

Thought this was poor and overrated.

with L. Steer
andybirtwistle 05/Aug/87 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
Gezzer 10/May/87 AltLd O/S

Superb Climbing!

Hidden 10/May/87 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
neilh 05/May/86 AltLd

Ist time went to do this in the late 70's, get caught out by incoming tide when failed on first pitch. all very entertaining

with dave marsh
shark 09/Sep/85 AltLd
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1985 -
Roy Stuart ??/1984 AltLd O/S

Greasy and strenuous and bold.

with Billy Bones
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S
with Neil McAdie
Dave Musgrove 28/Jun/81 AltLd O/S
with Kim Greenald
barny ??/1981 AltLd O/S

Glad Tim got the first pitch!

with Tim Whose Surname I Can't Remember
Hidden ?/Oct/80 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Andy Edgar ??/1980 AltLd

going very badly, felt hard on the first pitch and jibbed out on the direct finish, seconded that.

steve L 19/May/79 AltLd
with Morty
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Mike Owen 17/Sep/78 Lead
with Pete Craig
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 14
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set