T.Rex*** E3 5c

Rockfax Description
A stunning climb for the grade. Its needs a long dry spell for the initial crack to not be damp. A late-afternoon ascent will often allow the sun to help with this. Start below a large flake/chimney, where you will undoubtedly start to feel the terror associated with this route, especially if you don't have any very large cams (size 5s are handy).
1) 5c, 45m. Thrutch up the start of the chimney until you are forced into a rather alarming layback sequence, from here it is a race against time to get established above the wide and committing crack. Bridge up the groove above with much relief until you are level with a line of jugs. Swing rightwards on these (easy but little in the way of gear) to a belay on the slab.
2) 5b, 35m. Move up and right from the belay, and try and find the easiest way through the bulge onto the slab above - this involves a bold sequence that requires a steady head. Move up and left across the slab to a small ledge near its apex, below the overhang. Move down and left and make an exciting, but ultimately easy step across a groove. Move up and left to a good belay in the corner.
3) 4c, 40m. Move up to join the last pitch of Dream... and follow this left to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Wide Cracks, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Thrutch and Clutch.

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This climb is in 101 logbooks, and on 52 wishlists.

Second pitch
Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/15 with dave pickford

Did pitch one. Greasy and hard but awesome. Bit out of practice at the mo. Would be so much easier bone dry. Gogarth is awesome!
jamesturnbull - AltLd - 11/Aug/15 with John Crook

pumped and intimidated would be a understatement. Did direct finish to p1 then one nice easy pitch to get off. Two silver dragon cams where enough for the offwidth although one over cammed
dan ely - Lead dog - 11/Jun/15 with steve london

stevoland - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/15

Ergh. Right battle. pissed around facing the wrong way then once I did it the right way I couldn't reach anywhere to get the friend 5 in. Will borrow a big Green Camalot next time ( or grow longer arms). Horrible wide-cracks
Duncan Campbell - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/14 with Bubbles

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Sep/14

westaway - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Simon Smith, Imelda Neale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/14

graunchy, greasy and terrifying (don't think i had the right cams) horrible.
Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14 with George

Seymore Butt - 2014

mike mo - 2014

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with james oswald

Really really good. Lead P2, tim lead p1 and p3. I needed to rest on the 1st pitch because I couldn't get tim's big cam out. Getting out of the chimney is hard (horrible chimney), great juggy traverse to the belay. The 2nd pitch was hard as it was a little too hot...
James Oswald - AltLd dog - 07/Aug/13 with Tim Newton

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/13

With the Golden Bough finish. Bottom section was soaking and felt desperate, got pretty pumped which made the rest of the pitch feel harder than it should have done.Second pitch was fantastic. Golden Bough is a great way to finish it off, good gear and just four or five steep moves. Amazing route.
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 19/May/13 with Gareth E

captain - 2013

Hidden - Mar/12

Stone Idle - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/11

Amazing! 50m ab down the Uhuru wall into the very impressive bottom of Wen Zawn. The P1 offwidth looked decidedly nasty. Thrutch, thrutch to a good body jam position from which I clipped an in situ nut (would have been easy enough to place my own). A couple more contortions led to a crazy bridging position. Couldn't quite reach an in situ friend deep in the crack but managed to get a decent cam 4 next to it. Then it was go, go, go for the layback! Paused for a bit half way up it but figured that ot was best to just carry on. Strenuous but ultimately short lived. Only about E1 from the end of the layback but felt hard. The airy traverse was easy but thought provoking. Phil made short work of P2, which was pushing 5c to get round the corner and equally exciting to second. P1 & 2 weren't enough so did the Golden Bough finish, which was steep and pumpy but well supplied with good holds (even if the largest jug looked like it was about to fall off) and gear (sorry, Phil, leader's prerogative to lace it!). Don't think it merits E4 but certainly hard E3. A superb, memorable route - hardly any easy ground and quality all the way. Took five hours - started P1 at 2pm, finished at 7pm.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Phil

Wanted to lead P1 but thought better of it when I saw the difficulties placing the gear. Glad I didn't as it was very hard work getting up it, and getting the gear out was desparate. Came very close to getting it clean but ran out of gas inches from the good foothold on the layback. Lead P2 which was awesome and pretty stiff for 5b - would give it E2 5b/c on its own. Misha did the Golden Bough finish at E4 5c. Good holds all the way but v steep but with plenty of gear. Required lots of technical bridging. Ran out of gas again inches from top of steep section - gear removal had used a lot of energy. Impressive lead from Misha.
philhilo - AltLd - 28/Aug/11 with misha

Pitch 1 is a contender for the best pitch at Gogarth. An awesome route
david morse - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with willoates

Swam the zawn, fell out from deep in the crack, got straight back on the correct way and crushed it. really good, great line and finishing on the final pitch of dream was awesome.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with david morse

nige - AltLd - 11/Jun/11 with mark hounslea

Marcus - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd - 2011 with Sam Underhill

Barry Kerslake - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Luke F

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 28/May/10 with john nuttal

soph - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09

datoon - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with DT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08

Amazing route, amazing position, one of the best routes at gogarth
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/08 with chris thorne

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

tuftynick - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07

Toby Dunn - 2007

a_radiohead_fan - Sep/06

jim robertson - 2006

Bern - 2006

Mark Reeves - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

WB - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/04 with Guy

GuyM - AltLd - 01/Aug/04 with will

Ropeboy - AltLd - 16/May/04

I led P2 - glad it wasn't P1 whch was really greasy!
Billg - AltLd - 2002

Hidden - 2001

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 03/May/99 with Andy Pedley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/99

sadams - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/97 with John Boyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/96

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/May/95

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - May/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

jamiev - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/94 with Greg Cunningham

Very damp start, one rest on a very wet hold, otherwise onsight!
Steve Crowe - Lead dog - 31/Aug/93 with KM

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

Surely E4? Bold and strenuous.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1993 with Ian Berry

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/92 with Julian Fisher

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1992 with Ray Mardon

jfletcher - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/91 with David Gilkes

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 18/May/91 with Perric Crellin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/91

keefe - 1990

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1990 with John Mckeever

Thought this was poor and overrated.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/89 with L. Steer

andybirtwistle - AltLd - 05/Aug/87 with Ian Kyle

Superb Climbing!
Gezzer - AltLd O/S - 10/May/87 with Steve Burns

Hidden - AltLd - 10/May/87

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Ist time went to do this in the late 70's, get caught out by incoming tide when failed on first pitch. all very entertaining
neilh - AltLd - 05/May/86 with dave marsh

shark - AltLd - 09/Sep/85 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - 1985

Greasy and strenuous and bold.
Roy Stuart - AltLd O/S - 1984 with Billy Bones

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Neil McAdie

Dave Musgrove - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/81 with Kim Greenald

Glad Tim got the first pitch!
barny - AltLd O/S - 1981 with Tim Whose Surname I Can't Remember

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/80

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

going very badly, felt hard on the first pitch and jibbed out on the direct finish, seconded that.
Andy Edgar - AltLd - 1980

steve L - AltLd - 19/May/79 with Morty

Hidden - Lead - 1979

Mike Owen - Lead - 17/Sep/78 with Pete Craig

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Total votes cast 41
hard E40 of 14
E40 of 14
easy E44 of 14
hard E37 of 14
E33 of 14
easy E30 of 14
hard E20 of 14
E20 of 14
easy E20 of 14
hard 6a0 of 13
6a0 of 13
easy 6a0 of 13
hard 5c8 of 13
5c5 of 13
easy 5c0 of 13
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
3 Stars13 of 14
2 Stars1 of 14
1 Star0 of 14
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Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent
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