105m.
A line up the front face of the steep central section of the ridge on the left of Central Gully. Start as for Arctic Monkey or traverse in from Central Gully to reach the base of the steep section.
1. 30m Take a prominent slabby traverse line of weakness up leftwards (the higher of two lines).
2. 10m Return right over a short wall and slab to the base of a big corner slanting left.
3. 15m Climb the corner over two main steps, the second with a wide crack, to a large block.
4. 50m Step left from the block and climb straight up over a bulge, then trend left on slabby ground to join Arctic Monkey in its easier upper section.
5. Take the easiest line to the top (not included in length).
1. 30m Take a prominent slabby traverse line of weakness up leftwards (the higher of two lines).
2. 10m Return right over a short wall and slab to the base of a big corner slanting left.
3. 15m Climb the corner over two main steps, the second with a wide crack, to a large block.
4. 50m Step left from the block and climb straight up over a bulge, then trend left on slabby ground to join Arctic Monkey in its easier upper section.
5. Take the easiest line to the top (not included in length).
Sandy Allan, Andy Nisbet. 10/Apr/2008.
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Route of Interest
Savage Slit (Winter)
Grade: V 6 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan)