Rockfax Description
Good open climbing up the huge slab in the centre of the zawn. It should not be approached lightly; this is a very serious route, runners and belays are scarce and the top-out can be dangerous. Take plenty of long slings. Start to the left of Mousetrap, below a large groove defining the lower right-hand part of the slab.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the left wall of the groove, trending left to a break on the arete. Move left to belay at the base of a prominent dusty groove, and find a belay with much difficulty.
2) 4b, 40m. Move up rightwards onto the main green slab, and follow a wandering line up the slab, aiming towards a steepening on the top right edge. The rock here is interesting and hard to protect. Belay below a tower-like feature with a shelf that leads off leftwards.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb the short wall above into the long diagonal break, there is an optional belay on poor threads near the start of this. Then follow this break leftwards to its end with a generous pinch of exposure. The transition from rock to dirt (with no change of angle) will be the most worrying section of the route for many; keep going in the same line to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!.

Pete_Frost 17/Oct AltLd O/S

A fun route apart from the top-out. I led p1 and 3. P1 is solid enough. p2 starts getting a little looser and the rock on p3 shouldn't really be trusted. I never thought I'd find a more terrifying top-out than at Swanage; unfortunately now I have. I only dislodged one rock, and that bounced off the slab above my partners. Technically there probably isn't a move harder than 4a, but I'd grade this Mild XS 4a because of the suspect belay below the 3rd pitch, the state of the rock on p3 and the deadly top-out. DO NOT DO THIS IF IT IS AT ALL DAMP!

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey, Jeannie Sherwood
papashango 30/Aug Lead O/S
with PMW
Martin Haworth 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

A good route in a great position. It is a serious route though, especially the top pitch and the top out. Worth HVS, 4b, I wouldn't recommend it to a VS leader

centurion05 02/Aug/11 AltLd

Dont bother, unless your ticking routes

with Rimon Than
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
victim of mathematics 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and 4 (the rubbly top-out). A brilliant route on amazing rock, which is surprisingly solid. Probably high in the grade at VS, just for the start of the third pitch, but didn't seem to be worth HVS.

with Andy
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 03/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

The climbing was fine for the most part, but had a nightmare finding a belay after the second pitch. The top out was, err, interesting. Glad I wasn't leading that.

with Lee Wales, Andy Woolston
centurion05 03/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
HeatherF 14/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom R
Ched 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Lovely weather - Thank God. This would have been very worrying in damp conditions.

with Glanfor
bob johnson 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Hmm.. we decided that this route fell into the 'adventure climbing' catagory - the climbing is straight forward if a little qwirky however the escape from the top pitch is idiana jones stuff.

with Rich Ball
Hidden 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 16/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1. VS 4b seems a bit unfair for this horrorshow. E1 4c as a health warning?

with Richard & Bob
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Gibson27 ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Scotsken ??/2003 AltLd

Done after backing off Mousetrap

with Si Ball
Hidden 22/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
ZA ?/Aug/01 2nd
with Eggy, dad
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/91 AltLd
rogerskews 22/Oct/78 AltLd O/S


with Keith Jenkins
mikej 09/Nov/75 Lead
with Stewart Grant
Dave Musgrove 18/Oct/75 AltLd

finished up this after backing off Primate.

Hidden ??/1975 AltLd
Andy Say ??/1971 Lead O/S

Followed Pete Crew up this on first trip to Gogarth

with Dave Marriott
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mapperley samurai, ianstevens, Jon Pilling, speekingleesh, Katex, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
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Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
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