Wendigo*** E2 5b
[Wendigo p1, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A great route, and the most compelling line on this wall. Whilst there are no stopper moves, the climbing is sustained and involved throughout. Start from the foot of the rock gully by a block belay, about 10m down and left from the start of Red Wall.
1) 4c, 35m. Move left into the sandy groove, and take the easiest line up and left, following the fault-line to a sloping ledge.
2) 5b, 45m. This pitch tackles the continuation of the large sandy fault/chimney/crack. Climb up past a shallow depression, and make a committing move to gain the start of the corner. Continue up this, passing two sloping ledges, and belay on the third which is to the left of the final corner.
3) 4b, 14m. Move back into the main corner and follow a line up this; great care is needed with both rock and protection. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome outing up another of RHRW's lovely chimneys. Friendly and well protected for a route on this cliff!

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, The Road to Shibboleth, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Wendigo p1 © Mike Waters
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 77 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

2 pitches, belaying at Blue Remebered belay.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Adam Ellwood

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Olga

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/15

Did in 2 big pitches, I led P1 to the Blue Remembered Hills Belay, Bubbles Led to the top. Prob 5a, 5b for the pitch grades. First time on Red Walls. Keen for more... I think! Soft E2 (but serious!)
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Bubbles

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/14

Martin Haworth - AltLd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with John Brannock

First ascent since the bans came off, very dirty. More like e2, very good though.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

Better and slightly easier than Red Wall
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Elfyn Jones

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/13 with Chris Gooder

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with brad reed

Led p1 and an extended p3 from the lower sloping ledge - Toms lead on the main pitch and he had used every runner above a size 5 wire by that point! P2 even to the higher ledge is more like 35-40m than the 50m quoted in North Wales Rock. E2 5b, we thought a bit more sustained than Red Wall but no move as hard as the Red Wall crux. Good climbing, good route!
AJM - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Tom Lambert

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/12

Awesome route, quite serious but only worth E2.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Andy

Led 1st and 3rd pitches.Beautiful rock but no idea how it gets E3 as was a pretty soft 5b. I've done far more demanding E1s.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Martin Haworth

mr mills - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with sion

McGuinness - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Mills

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

stunning line, much more solid than red wall. Bring plenty of big wires and slings. amazing
david morse - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/10 with chris todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/10

Very easy although comprehensive guide book made no sense - go down and left???? Up and right from 15m up Escape Route. Did technical crux through bulge. Misha the rest.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with misha

First route on Red Wall proper. Amazing rock formations giving interesting 3D climbing, never hard but fairly sustained. A bit of a jugfest really which at times felt like a 5+ at the wall! Not a great deal of gear though. Led P2, though I think Phil ended up leading the first 10m or so of the 'official' P2, which included the technical crux. No way is this E3 - easy E2. Thought it had an easier crux than Red Wall but was more sustained. It's not the grade that counts though but the experience.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/10

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Steve

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/10

belayed in the wrong place twice, and found it quite run out coming up to the corner, easy climbing tho, was nice.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with john

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 13/Aug/10 with Dad

Jen Crook - 2nd - 07/Aug/10 with Andy Woolston, Rob Patchett

phil64 - AltLd - Aug/10

Hidden - 2010

centurion05 - AltLd - 2010 with patch

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/09

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with giles

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 13/Sep/08 with Dave Almomd

easy for grade
WB - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Guy

GuyM - AltLd - Aug/08 with will

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 23/Oct/07

Done in 2 pitches - which was quite scary!?!
datoon - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with MJ

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Oct/07

a_radiohead_fan - Oct/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Bern - 2006

Mark Reeves - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

switch - AltLd O/S - 2005

ian caton - Lead O/S - Sep/03 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/02

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

Not E3 and NOT ***.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2001 with Karen Ghiselli

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Oct/98

sadams - AltLd - 28/Sep/97 with Hugh Cottom

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/97 with KM

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/96 with jon

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 03/Aug/96 with steve ward

frost - AltLd - Jul/96 with S Raw

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Oct/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1994

Hidden - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Sep/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

jcw - 1987 with Simon Donowho

andy gittins - 1985

mikej - AltLd - 18/Sep/82 with Mike Byles

Got put off when a big block broke off while I was standing on it.
mikej - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/79 with Mike Byles

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".
Falko - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/75 with Howard Lancashire

Pete Nugent - AltLd - 1945 with Andy Gill

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
climbingrev, mapperley samurai, middlevern, climbingpixie, lukea

Total votes cast 98
hard E31 of 34
E38 of 34
easy E35 of 34
hard E215 of 34
E24 of 34
easy E21 of 34
hard E10 of 34
E10 of 34
easy E10 of 34
hard 5c0 of 34
5c0 of 34
easy 5c0 of 34
hard 5b2 of 34
5b16 of 34
easy 5b15 of 34
hard 5a1 of 34
5a0 of 34
easy 5a0 of 34
3 Stars29 of 30
2 Stars0 of 30
1 Star1 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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