Red Wall*** E2 5b
[Climbers on Wendigo E3 Red Walls Gogarth, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A great route, with tricky route finding on the main pitch, and an appalling belay, which can be avoided by linking the second and third pitches. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay.
1) 5a, 34m. Move left to a right-facing groove and climb this to a ledge. Up and right is a left-facing groove, between you and this feature is some exciting but ultimately easy ground. Move through the weirdness and follow the groove, which leads right to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Head up and slightly left, into the sandy chimney fault-line. Follow this to just below a peg, where the way forward looks impossible. Traverse left here, for about 4m, until you can make a move up into another chimney, follow this to a shallow depression and a host of ironmongery and make a poor but memorable belay on these stubs and some cams in what appears to be dust, or carry on up P3 to the top.
3) 5a, 20m. Continue up the chimney line, passing numerous spikes and dodgy rock, to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The starting rung on the foot ladder of extreme ledge shuffling.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Climbers on Wendigo E3 Red Walls Gogarth © Andy Birtwistle
View all 11 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 125 logbooks, and on 25 wishlists.

Hannes B - 2nd - 15/Sep/15 with John Crook

Absolutely amazing, questionably better than Mousetrap?...
renetemple - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/15 with Kev Avery, Dave Sharpe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 08/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/15

Hidden - 2015

Dave Rumney - 2015

Dave Rumney - 2015

Dave Rumney - 2015

Dave Rumney - 2015

Mark Grist - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Tom Doldon

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/14

gosh the roped scramble is truly awful in the wet but wow what a fantastic, full on climb. Led pitch 2 and 3 together which given the options for belaying at the top of the second seems well the best.
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 19/Sep/14 with FatRob

A grand day out. Done as less scary alternative after running away from first sight of Mousetrap. Pretty nerve-jangling on first encountering the talc & ginger biscuits of P1, but gear improves & line unfolds logically as you get higher. Dale ran P2&3 together because of fears about belay, but actually there's reasonable gear to back up the pegs. Led p1.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with Dale

The best route I've done on a sea cliff so far, pure adventurneerng. From committing to the abb scary roped scramble and finding the route. First pitch is not 35m more like 15m. Me and andy had a bit of a debate about this. I lead the crux pitch and linked third pitch together. It all went well, I didn't find it that hard but was very glad to see the top. What a day what a route
Dale - AltLd - Sep/14 with Andy

Fantastic, scary.
Martin Haworth - AltLd rpt - 23/Aug/14 with John Brannock

Brannock - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14

Soaking wet. Like shinning up a sandy drainpipe
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/14 with George Ullrich

Frank the Husky - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

quite loose
Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with James Machaffie

There is a good nut and Friend high up to back up poor belay at end of p2 (apparently you can also keep going and do pitches 2 and 3 in one).
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Elfyn Jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13

Great route in stupendous position.
Gezzer - AltLd - 20/Aug/13 with Steve Burns

Amazing route. Ran pitches 2 and 3 together.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Chris Gooder

This may be a compelling line up a compelling cliff but the climbing isn't very interested. Shite rock, amazing looking crag. Utterly serious. Never going down there again. 1 star. Scariest abseil I've done...
James Oswald - 2nd - 04/Sep/12

P1 & 3. A very juggy romp on amazing rock.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/12

Amazing route on an amazing crag.
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12

Good route. Please to climb this after the epic last time we tried. Getting to the base of the route is the hardest part.
WB - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Guy

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd rpt - 03/Aug/12 with Gareth E

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 16/Jan/12 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/11

spacey - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/11 with paul evans

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/11

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 30/Aug/11 with Doddy

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

stevoland - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 14/Oct/10

Similar to Wendigo but harder if anything - but still easy. Don't bother with rotting mess of pegs on 2nd belay, run P2 & 3 together. Worth the wait...
philhilo - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with misha

phil64 - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with chris guest

Great route on the weirdest rock I've ever climbed on. Thought it had a harder crux than Wendigo but was less sustained - in fact it's an easy jugfest for most of the way, just don't fall off! I led P1 and Phil led P2 and P3 together, missing out the dodgy belay, which looked like it wouldn't support a fly: only one of the pegs looked just about ok, though there are back up threads available higher up, if you trust them. Spent forever waiting for this route as the team in front was very slow (we abbed in from the side and didn't see that they had abbed in directly just before us).
Misha - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Phil

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Ewan

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Steve

Fantastic!! lead P1 and 3, both easy but really bold. Andy Lead P2, harder, but less bold. P3 especially is superb.
Sam1991 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/10

first route on red walls, great climb
willoates - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with john

Sandy Simpson - 13/Aug/10 with Ross Hewitt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Brown - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with James T

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09

Very atmospheric with a big feel to it. Committing feeling launching away from the peg on p2!
AJM - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Tom Lambert

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/08

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 19/Aug/08 with Andy Woolston, Dave Gleave

Al Evans - 2008

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 06/Oct/07 with Sam B

frost - AltLd - Sep/07 with N Griffiths

middlevern - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Mike Blood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/06

Will1 - Jun/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

david morse - AltLd - Sep/05 with chris todd

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - Aug/05 with Simon Frost

datoon - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/04 with RT

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/01

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

Still crap. Not E3 though is it?
Ian Jones - Lead rpt - 2001 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1998

sadams - AltLd - 27/Sep/97 with Hugh Cottom

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - Aug/97 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/96

Budge - AltLd O/S - Nov/95

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/95 with steve ward

Led p.2. Had an excellent week at Gogarth. Originally, was heading for Alps but turned the car round onthe M6 and headed for Scotland as there had been a drought for months. Started to rain after a week so headed down to Wales.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - Aug/95 with John Bennison

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/93 with KM

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/93

ChrisJD - 2nd - 1993 with PaulOr

Route finding on P1 not obvious.
Ched - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/92 with Glanfor

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/92

Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/92 with jon

whispering nic - AltLd - 03/Sep/91 with Graham Iles

Hidden - 1990

johno072 - Lead - 1989

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/88

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

mark mcgowan01 - 1987

keefe - 1986

With Phil Sampson...never again
steveboote - AltLd - 1986

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/85 with Dave Booth

andy gittins - 1985

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 25/Aug/84

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Nov/81

Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary rock but what a position!
barny - AltLd O/S - 1981 with Pete Sutton

Tried to lead the crux pitch but didn't like it. neither did Dave but he led it anyway. ***? No chance.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - Aug/79 with Dave Greenald

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

In the rain.
Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 11/Nov/75 with Dave Williams

Had a grandstand view of Tony Wilmott leading the first scent of Black Light. He was a NLMC associate of Bill's and had borrowed our abseil rope which should have been left in situ to facilitate our escape if required.
mikej - AltLd - 14/Sep/69 with Bill Church

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JamesWilliams, Jamie Skelton, jimxxx, hutchay, spidermonkey09, mike lawrence?, pigeonslipper, madeleine, Dr Caterpillar, clive-greenwood, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 90
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E30 of 30
easy E30 of 30
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E217 of 30
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