Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth South Stack >
 
The Moon*** E3 5c

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[Finishing off the Moon, 4 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Finishing off the Moon © Dave Bond
View all 12 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 38 wishlists.

Hidden - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

Led P1 & 3. Brilliant. Great climbing in a totally incredible situation.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13

Lead Crux Pitch, absolutely awesome experience, climbing was not that hard but the whole overall experience E3!
samsimpson - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Leon Skeldon

"Only the best route in the world" AMAZING. We had Yellow Wall to ourselves. Lead P1 & P3. Need to go back and lead P2.
leon - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with samsimpson

Led p2. Epic spacewalking positions. Cracks and some other holds wet/greasy following overnight rain which definitely made it feel an E3 experience.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 29/May/13 with Tom Lambert

Grippingly awesome. Steep but with solid rock. A long standing ambition satisfied.
Tubs - AltLd O/S - 29/May/13 with AJM

First Gogarth experience. Topped out to discover it was pouring with rain. Amazing!
mes32 - 2nd - 28/May/13 with Wilki

A great adventure. Climbing was quite straight forward. Managed to stupidly abseil from wrong place and ended up in the sea then had to scramble to base of route. What a muppet!
The Grist - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Alan Barnes

P2. Very soapy due to cool misty morning.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 20/May/13 with jon stewart

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/13 with ed

Brilliant
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/13 with Tim Newton

Led P1 and P2 together, then Calum went up Ludwig
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 18/Feb/13 with Calum Muskett

captain - 2013

Lead main pitch, brilliant exposure
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

captain - 2013

Michael Allday - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/12 with Bruce Houston

Crazy
JRae - AltLd - 06/Oct/12 with Liam P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12

Bruce Houston - AltLd O/S - Oct/12 with Mike

I had a great time. Steve just practised prussiking. Each to their own.
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/12 with Steve Sharland

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12

P2. Quality. And I think warrants E3.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/12

Amazing positions!
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with T.Livinstone

Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with Ollie Burrows

Took a fall on pitch 2, gutted, pulled back on and completed the pitch. Absolutely brilliant climb, will have to come back and do it clean.
Martin Haworth - AltLd RP - 28/Apr/12 with John Brannock

Pitches 1 and 3, very, very good.
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/12

Lead P2. Started too far left, have a feeling I traversed through The Drunk and Pergyl to get back on route - bit run out but steady climbing. Gripped to the max due to exposure overload. Not the soft touch I was expecting.
Dave Foster - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Si 2

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12

Liam FLeming - 29/Mar/12

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 15/Jan/12 with Gareth E

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Owen_P - 2012

Led p2
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/11 with John Orr

Sustained. Never stops coming. Not lacking in holds just rests superb
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Dave Almond

1 rest on gear. gutted. spectacular route
Dave Almond - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Adam Crook

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with loundsy

p2
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Ben Hirst

david morse - AltLd rpt - 23/Jul/11 with willoates

willoates - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with david morse

I lead pitch 1 & 3, Roz pitch 2
3 Names - AltLd - 20/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

4c, 5c, 5b. I led P2 - very atmospheric. First E3 onsight lead.
givemetea - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11 with Vince

Led 2nd pitch. Brilliant route.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Mike

missed last pitch due to bad route finding on my part, ended up traversing all the way onto Sind.
feilx - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/11 with Andy L, Alex Dennis

In the rain - but we stayed dry under the overhangs! Got a bit lost and ended up finishing up The Sind.
AlexD - 2nd - 08/Jul/11 with Andy Lamont, Felix

Last pitch only as finish to The Cow. Totally absorbed in this, didn't really trust rock and found initial moves awkward. All there but didn't feel 'easy', really good in a character building sort of way.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with jo

this route is amazing - absolute must, wicked exposure
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 31/May/11 with Susan

Martin Cleaver - 2nd O/S - 13/May/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/May/11 with martin cleaver

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Mar/11

Superb route, can't ask for much more.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Mar/11

zero six - Lead O/S - Mar/11

Exposed! Lead 2nd pitch. Felt a bit conditioned to exposure recently but this route reminded me of how good exposure feels. Climbed a bit spazzy because of it though.
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Sam Farnsworth, George Ulrich, Matt Burdican

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jan/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

owenH - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Lone Rider - 2011

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 23/Jul/10 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Amazing route
robw007 - Lead β - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10

E2 climbing; E3 situations!
Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10

Magnificent exposure on P2! Sustained and classic
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 11/May/10 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

Led 2nd pitch. Cracking route, made the classic it is by the positions. Reccommend for abitious E2 leader maybe?
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Sam Hamer

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/09

Tony did a good job of this. It was scary and exposed but fun at the same time. Falling off would have been a faff.
Swotson - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Tony Madden

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 25/Jun/09 with Andy Reeve

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Mick Haffner

good climb Sarah's birthday 40
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 29/May/09 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09

Totally gripping... utterly brilliant.
jkarran - 2nd - 03/May/09 with Aly

Hidden - AltLd dog - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

buzby78 - Lead - 20/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08

centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/08

Hidden - Mar/08

Dave Bond - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Tim Banton

Al Evans - 2008

Will1 - 2008

Matt Vigg - 2008

tuftynick - 2008

jeffmcd56 - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Rob

datoon - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with MJ

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07

Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07 with will sim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07

Led pitch 2 (5c). Excellent route!
MONKEY78 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with adam ellwood

mgeek - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Neill Busby

Apharri - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/07

Brown - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Henry

middlevern - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Mike Blood

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Bob

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2007

E2?
mux - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Simon Frost

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2007 with Malcolm Scott

Lead the long 1st pitch absolute quality,Mick did the top pitch which seemed to me to have the crux move,but it was only short lived.
Phill Mitch - AltLd O/S - 2007 with mick

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/06 with rick

Awesome, awesome route, very exposed but reasonable climbing in a great position. Both pitches are classic. Unfortunately crux was wet so had to pull on gear to get past wet bit, doh!
Chad123 - Lead dog - Jun/06 with Jo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/06

frost - AltLd - May/06 with D Garry

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Boy - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/05 with C Godfrey

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 18/Sep/05 with Dave Ferguson

a_radiohead_fan - Lead - Aug/05

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

Very nive climbing
nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 15/Dec/04 with Norman Clacher

nige - AltLd - 28/Aug/04 with mark hounslea

ali_robb - AltLd O/S - Jul/04

Gus - Lead O/S - 19/May/04 with Rob Clifton

2nd pitch
Ropeboy - Lead - 16/May/04

I got the first and third pitches
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Phil Leng

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Sam, Will

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/03

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Oct/03

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

paul m hadley - 2003

Bri 1st and 3rd pitch, me long traverse 2nd pitch.Ab in exiting, use a sling as block is very round. Ist pitch harder than book.2nd pitch long and hard, interesting down climb to appauling belay! Last pitch done in the fog to the sound of the fog horn - very atmospheric.One to remember.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/02 with brian rodgers

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/02

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/01

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 2001 with James Hubbard

Kevin Avery - 2nd O/S - 2001

WB - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/00 with Guy

Hidden - 01/Jun/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Tim M - 2000

Richard White - AltLd O/S - 1999

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/98 with Paul Tanton

lead 2nd pitch
andyblain - AltLd O/S - Jun/98

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 20/May/98 with John Hamill Keyes

EagerAndy - AltLd - 1998

sadams - AltLd - 28/Sep/97 with Hugh Cottom

ColinD - AltLd O/S - Aug/97 with Hanna

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/97 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/97 with mik

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Mark Hamilton

phardman - 1997

ellis - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Simon Witcher

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 04/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

GuyM - AltLd - Aug/96 with will

PaulTanton - AltLd rpt - Aug/96 with Dave Taylor

richparry - 1996

I led odds. Tim led second pitch. Probably the best route in the world.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1996 with Tim

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/95 with Talk me to death Pete

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/94

jfletcher - AltLd - 28/Aug/93 with David Gilkes

keefe - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe

lead P1 (5c pitch) Amazing route. Love this place
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/92

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/May/91 with colin

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 11/May/91 with Graham Iles

Er, easy E2? fantastic stuff all the same.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1991 with Ian Berry

Hidden - Lead - May/90

keefe - 1990

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 1990

led 2nd pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/89 with steve ward

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/89

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1989 with Bill Williamson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Dave Douglas - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/88

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/88

jasper11 - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/87

Gezzer - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/87 with Max Rock

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

andy gittins - 1985

2,L,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/84 with Chris the body.

Repeated this for an Extreme Rock photoshoot. never did get my face in.
Ian Jones - 2nd rpt - 1984 with Geraldine Taylor

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with Neil MacCadie

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 28/Aug/82 with Kim Greenald

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

David Smith - 2nd - 30/May/81 with john stanger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/81

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/79

Mike Owen - 19/May/79 with Gavin Peat

Mega achievement.
ian caton - Lead O/S - Oct/78 with Bill Parker

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Justin T, humptydumpty, Hidden, Alex the Alex, Dibdawg, i.fish2000, Graham Booth, Si dH, nigel pearson, climbingpixie, rodgit, Hidden, Hidden, tomhull, Just Another Dave, Hidden, rustaldo, owain86, Hidden, Hidden, Siderunner, Hidden, Hidden, richardr, Hidden, jamiev, the cassin ridge, Hidden, Obi-Wan is lost..., Dr Caterpillar, Owen W-G, lukea, Quiddity, Hidden, Hidden, spacey, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 116
hard E40 of 39
E40 of 39
easy E41 of 39
hard E32 of 39
E326 of 39
easy E36 of 39
hard E23 of 39
E21 of 39
easy E20 of 39
hard 6a0 of 39
6a0 of 39
easy 6a0 of 39
hard 5c2 of 39
5c33 of 39
easy 5c3 of 39
hard 5b1 of 39
5b0 of 39
easy 5b0 of 39
3 Stars38 of 38
2 Stars0 of 38
1 Star0 of 38
0 Stars0 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Lead40 of 215 (18.6%)
Followed12 of 215 (5.6%)
Alt Leads116 of 215 (54.0%)
Unknown47 of 215 (21.9%)

'Climbed'91 of 215 (42.3%)
clean O/S110 of 215 (51.2%)
clean β1 of 215 (0.5%)
clean rpt9 of 215 (4.2%)
clean RP1 of 215 (0.5%)
dogged3 of 215 (1.4%)