The Moon*** E3 5c
[The Moon @ Gogarth yellow wall
Second pitch, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A simply wonderful route, with some exposed terrain in space-walking territory. Start at the base of the abseil.
1) 5a, 15m. Climb the steep juggy corner to reach a good ledge below the steeper crag above.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up and right along some diagonal bands of rock. After 6m, move up to a steep wall and climb this, trending rightwards on good holds, to reach the lip of the roof/arete, where you can rock onto a small perch on a pleasant slab. Traverse right along the slab to a corner and down-climb this and then step right again to reach the belay.
3) 5c, 24m. From the belay, follow the cracks that lead up and right across the wall to a bulging overlap. Move left over this and carry on rightwards in the same direction as before up a groove to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 2015 Objectives.

Photo: The Moon @ Gogarth yellow wall Second pitch © RonnydeWeerd
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This climb is in 283 logbooks, and on 43 wishlists.

P1&3 Totally outrageous! mad positions and amazing climbing in the sun!
shaunhumphreys - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/15 with benkelsey

P2. Broke a head sized foothold 2m into pitch one and promptly fell off. Got the fear that it would all be like that but rock improves giving amazing climbing in great positions with adequate gear. Totally mega. Best route at the g so far!
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/15 with Shaun Humphreys

What an amazing route
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/15 with Polly

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/15

Amazing Route
robpartridge - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/15 with Tom Nichols

Hidden - Lead - 03/Sep/15

RonnydeWeerd - AltLd O/S - Sep/15 with Tom ten Voorde

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15

steveboote - 2nd - 25/Jul/15 with Hidden

funky, was raining the whole time but didn't get wet until topping out.
jacob shieldhouse hadley - 2nd - 14/Jul/15 with callum muskett

Well good!
samwillo - AltLd - 12/Jul/15 with Uisdean Hawthorn

Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/15 with James Machaffie

Tom Livingstone - AltLd rpt - 26/May/15 with Nick Bullock

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 16/May/15 with Max (France)

jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - 07/May/15 with ian craigie

pete johnson - AltLd rpt - 30/Apr/15 with Roger Bennion, Chris Parkin

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 06/Apr/15 with Gareth E

Felt appropriate to do this on the day after the solar eclipse! Fantastic route with exciting spacewalking positions and a great way to kick off the rock season. Led middle pitch. Found it challenging on the crux sideways shuffle section - early season weakness! Nothing desperate though and in reality not that hard for E3. Last pitch is good value as well, weird moves onto and past a rib. Gear generally adequate to good. Pretty hot under a blazing sun in a blue sky, could have been in the middle of the summer! Dropped a set of micros sorting gear on the middle belay so abbed all the way down when we went to do the Savage afterwards and fortunately found them. Scrambled back up to the belay ledge only to drop a shoe! Back down again... D'oh! Pretty much gone dry and only one loose hold on the entire route. Originally planned to go winter climbing in Scotland but got put off by the forecast. This was great recompense!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Andrew

Andrew Wilson - AltLd rpt - 21/Mar/15 with Misha

mega first climb at Gogarth! led 1st and 3rd (last, 5b I thought?). Great climb! will be back for more Gogarth!
bede.west - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/15 with Henry Francis

HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - Mar/15

Hidden - 2015

phil64 - 2015

Ian craigie - AltLd - 2015 with James Taylor

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14

P2, as good as I was expecting, simply amazing.
papashango - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14

More than made up for the experience on Cow.
alaan - AltLd - 17/Aug/14 with Will

The fear! Oh, the fear!
w.pettet-smith - 17/Aug/14 with ben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/14

Have wanted to do this route for so long! Pretty scared but found it all ok and now definitely on my list to lead. Thought p3 was harder than p2.
Alison Cairns - 2nd - 28/Jun/14 with Mick green

Fantastic climbing up the crazy jenga blocks
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/14 with phill ukc

robw007 - AltLd - 14/Jun/14

Fantastic adventure climbing, been wanting to do this for years and it was well worth the wait - really enjoyed leading the second pitch but the situation from start to finish is excellent and it does deserve the hype!
Mark Leicester - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Tom Murrell

Lead P2. Simply superb, amazing adventurous climbing. The rock on P2 is pretty good, better than expected. One to do when it's covered in chalk. Excellent adventure, maybe E3 because of the position?
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/14 with Jon Stewart

Lead P1. Was going to lead P3 but smashed my eye getting a nut out so couldn't see. I need to go back ASAP to lead P2&3. Great route. Easy climbing. Incredible position!
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/14 with George Ullrich

greglad - Jun/14

P2. Cool route but didn't think it was quite worth all the hype?
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Jake Young

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Rachel Slater

what a Amazing line! Lead the 1st and last pitch. scary route this one
Alistair Corbett - AltLd O/S - 14/May/14 with penny

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 13/May/14 with Adam Booth

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 13/May/14 with Ed Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/14

Hidden - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Led P1 & 3. Brilliant. Great climbing in a totally incredible situation.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13

Lead main pitch, brilliant exposure
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Lead Crux Pitch, absolutely awesome experience, climbing was not that hard but the whole overall experience E3!
Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Leon Skeldon

"Only the best route in the world" AMAZING. We had Yellow Wall to ourselves. Lead P1 & P3. Need to go back and lead P2.
leon - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with samsimpson

Led p2. Epic spacewalking positions. Cracks and some other holds wet/greasy following overnight rain which definitely made it feel an E3 experience.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 29/May/13 with Tom Lambert

Grippingly awesome. Steep but with solid rock. A long standing ambition satisfied.
Tubs - AltLd O/S - 29/May/13 with AJM

First Gogarth experience. Topped out to discover it was pouring with rain. Amazing!
mes32 - 2nd - 28/May/13 with Wilki

A great adventure. Climbing was quite straight forward. Managed to stupidly abseil from wrong place and ended up in the sea then had to scramble to base of route. What a muppet!
Mark Grist - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Alan Barnes

P2. Very soapy due to cool misty morning.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 20/May/13 with jon stewart

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/13 with ed

eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/13 with Tim Newton

Led P1 and P2 together, then Calum went up Ludwig
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 18/Feb/13 with Calum Muskett

captain - 2013

captain - 2013

Michael Allday - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/12 with Bruce Houston

JRae - AltLd - 06/Oct/12 with Liam P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12

Bruce Houston - AltLd O/S - Oct/12 with Mike

I had a great time. Steve just practised prussiking. Each to their own.
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/12 with Steve Sharland

Lead pitch 2, absolutely mega. Wanted to do this for ages, great climbing and positions from start to finish, it didn't dissapoint!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Rich Gentry

P2. Quality. And I think warrants E3.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/12

Amazing positions!
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with T.Livinstone

Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with Ollie Burrows

Took a fall on pitch 2, gutted, pulled back on and completed the pitch. Absolutely brilliant climb, will have to come back and do it clean.
Martin Haworth - AltLd RP - 28/Apr/12 with John Brannock

Pitches 1 and 3, very, very good.
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/12

Lead P2. Started too far left, have a feeling I traversed through The Drunk and Pergyl to get back on route - bit run out but steady climbing. Gripped to the max due to exposure overload. Not the soft touch I was expecting.
Dave Foster - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Si 2

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12

Liam FLeming - 29/Mar/12

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 15/Jan/12 with Gareth E

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Owen_P - 2012

Led p2
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/11 with John Orr

Sustained. Never stops coming. Not lacking in holds just rests superb
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Dave Almond

1 rest on gear. gutted. spectacular route
Dave Almond - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Adam Crook

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with loundsy

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Ben Hirst

david morse - AltLd rpt - 23/Jul/11 with willoates

willoates - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with david morse

I lead pitch 1 & 3, Roz pitch 2
3 Names - AltLd - 20/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

4c, 5c, 5b. I led P2 - very atmospheric. First E3 onsight lead.
givemetea - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/11 with Vince

Led 2nd pitch. Brilliant route.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Mike

missed last pitch due to bad route finding on my part, ended up traversing all the way onto Sind.
feilx - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/11 with Andy L, Alex Dennis

In the rain - but we stayed dry under the overhangs! Got a bit lost and ended up finishing up The Sind.
AlexD - 2nd - 08/Jul/11 with Andy Lamont, Felix

Last pitch only as finish to The Cow. Totally absorbed in this, didn't really trust rock and found initial moves awkward. All there but didn't feel 'easy', really good in a character building sort of way.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11 with jo

this route is amazing - absolute must, wicked exposure
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 31/May/11 with Susan

Martin Cleaver - 2nd O/S - 13/May/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/May/11 with martin cleaver

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Mar/11

Superb route, can't ask for much more.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Mar/11

zero six - Lead O/S - Mar/11

Exposed! Lead 2nd pitch. Felt a bit conditioned to exposure recently but this route reminded me of how good exposure feels. Climbed a bit spazzy because of it though.
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Sam Farnsworth, George Ulrich, Matt Burdican

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jan/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

owenH - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

PAJames - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Lone Rider - 2011

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 23/Jul/10 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Amazing route
robw007 - Lead β - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10

E2 climbing; E3 situations!
Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10

Magnificent exposure on P2! Sustained and classic
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 11/May/10 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

Led 2nd pitch. Cracking route, made the classic it is by the positions. Reccommend for abitious E2 leader maybe?
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Sam Hamer

Hidden - Lead - Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/09

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 25/Jun/09 with Andy Reeve

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with Mick Haffner

good climb Sarah's birthday 40
greenclimb - Lead O/S - 29/May/09 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09

Totally gripping... utterly brilliant.
jkarran - 2nd - 03/May/09 with Aly

Hidden - AltLd dog - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

buzby78 - Lead - 20/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08

centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Dangerous Dave Murphy

Hidden - Mar/08

Dave Bond - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Tim Banton

Al Evans - 2008

Will1 - 2008

Matt Vigg - 2008

tuftynick - 2008

jeffmcd56 - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Rob

datoon - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with MJ

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07

Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07 with will sim

Adam Ellwood - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Dave Evans

Led pitch 2 (5c). Excellent route!
DavidEvans - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with adam ellwood

mgeek - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Neill Busby

Apharri - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/07

Brown - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Henry

middlevern - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Mike Blood

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Bob

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2007

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2007

mux - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Simon Frost

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2007 with Malcolm Scott

Lead the long 1st pitch absolute quality,Mick did the top pitch which seemed to me to have the crux move,but it was only short lived.
Phill Mitch - AltLd O/S - 2007 with mick

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2007 with Dave Henderson

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/06 with rick

Awesome, awesome route, very exposed but reasonable climbing in a great position. Both pitches are classic. Unfortunately crux was wet so had to pull on gear to get past wet bit, doh!
Chad123 - Lead dog - Jun/06 with Jo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/06

frost - AltLd - May/06 with D Garry

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Boy - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/05 with C Godfrey

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 18/Sep/05 with Dave Ferguson

a_radiohead_fan - Lead - Aug/05

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2005

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2005

Very nive climbing
nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 15/Dec/04 with Norman Clacher

nige - AltLd - 28/Aug/04 with mark hounslea

ali_robb - AltLd O/S - Jul/04

Gus - Lead O/S - 19/May/04 with Rob Clifton

2nd pitch
Ropeboy - Lead - 16/May/04

I got the first and third pitches
Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Phil Leng

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Sam, Will

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/03

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Oct/03

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

paul m hadley - 2003

pitch 2 - wow
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Dave A

Bri 1st and 3rd pitch, me long traverse 2nd pitch.Ab in exiting, use a sling as block is very round. Ist pitch harder than book.2nd pitch long and hard, interesting down climb to appauling belay! Last pitch done in the fog to the sound of the fog horn - very atmospheric.One to remember.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/02 with brian rodgers

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/02

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - Aug/01 with Marcus Payne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/01

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 2001 with James Hubbard

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2001

WB - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/00 with Guy

mike lawrence? - 01/Jun/00 with James Ellson

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Tim M - 2000

caveman_chris - Lead - May/99

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999

Prettyeasy but cool
Hamish Leslie - Lead O/S - 1999 with Martin Barclay

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/98 with Paul Tanton

lead 2nd pitch
andyblain - AltLd O/S - Jun/98

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 20/May/98 with John Hamill Keyes

Andy Edgar - AltLd - 1998

sadams - AltLd - 28/Sep/97 with Hugh Cottom

ColinD - AltLd O/S - Aug/97 with Hanna

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/97 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/97 with mik

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Mark Hamilton

phardman - 1997

ellis - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Simon Witcher

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 04/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

andybirtwistle - AltLd - 11/Aug/96 with Steve Brewis

GuyM - AltLd - Aug/96 with will

PaulTanton - AltLd rpt - Aug/96 with Dave Taylor

richparry - 1996

I led odds. Tim led second pitch. Probably the best route in the world.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1996 with Tim

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/95 with Talk me to death Pete

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/94

D Tempest - AltLd - 02/May/94 with Rick

Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/93 with KM

jfletcher - AltLd - 28/Aug/93 with David Gilkes

keefe - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/93 with Glenn Sutcliffe

lead P1 (5c pitch) Amazing route. Love this place
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Sep/92

Mike Owen - AltLd rpt - 15/May/92 with Niklas

Roget - Lead O/S - 21/May/91 with colin

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 11/May/91 with Graham Iles

Er, easy E2? fantastic stuff all the same.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1991 with Ian Berry

With Vic Belshaw
steveboote - AltLd - 1991

Mike Owen - 2nd rpt - 10/Jun/90 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead - May/90

keefe - 1990

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 1990

Roy Stuart - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Eric Powell

led 2nd pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/89 with steve ward

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/89

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1989 with Bill Williamson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

johno072 - 2nd - 1989

Dave Douglas - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/88

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/88

Robmwatt - 1988

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/87

Gezzer - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/87 with Max Rock

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 1985

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/84 with Chris the body.

Repeated this for an Extreme Rock photoshoot. never did get my face in.
Ian Jones - 2nd rpt - 1984 with Geraldine Taylor

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with Neil MacCadie

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 28/Aug/82 with Kim Greenald

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 24/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

uphillnow - 2nd - 30/May/81 with john stanger

Hidden - AltLd - May/81

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/81

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Chris lead both pitches. Wow.
barny - 2nd O/S - 1981 with Chris Massey

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/79

Mike Owen - AltLd O/S - 19/May/79 with Gavin Peat

Mega achievement.
ian caton - Lead O/S - Oct/78 with Bill Parker

steve L - Lead - 27/Aug/78 with Lyndsey

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jamie Skelton, pearson9596, chris wyatt, fabricio, Justin T, humptydumpty, Alex the Alex, Dibdawg, i.fish2000, Graham Booth, nigel pearson, climbingpixie, tomhull, Just Another Dave, rustaldo, owain86, Siderunner, richardr, jamiev, the cassin ridge, Obi-Wan is lost..., Dr Caterpillar, Owen W-G, lukea, spacey

Total votes cast 161
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP