Rockfax Description
A great route with fly-on-the wall style situations on a subtle right-to-left line across the sheer back wall of the zawn. The start is often damp, and care is needed in setting up a solid belay at the end of the first pitch. If the sea is rough or the tide high, it is usual to abseil to the first stance and do only the top two pitches. Start from a belay at the base of Shark.
1) 5b, 22m. From the belay, climb up left to a niche at the base of a crack in the wall left of Shark's corner. Immediately traverse left to another niche in a crack. Climb the crack to a move leftwards and a tiny stance and hanging belay.
2) 5c, 18m. Move left and up to the base of a thin crack via an awkward move. Climb the thin crack. At its end, traverse rightwards to a stance in the left-leaning corner.
3) 5c, 10m. The steep crack-line above the stance provides a pumpy climax. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Hidden 01/Sep AltLd β
Sophie Nunn 01/Sep AltLd O/S


with Sue
redjerry 30/Aug Lead O/S
with Robert Duran
ferdia 16/Aug AltLd O/S

abbed in part way up pitch 1 to avoid wet. great varied climbing. top pitch makes up for it's short stature in other, slightly thuggish,ways....

with Burton
burto 16/Aug AltLd O/S
with ferdia
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 28/Jun AltLd O/S

Took a couple of attempts for us to do the route due to high seas. The first effort two days previously ended up in me being soaked by a big wave, then top roping out of Shark.

Duncan Campbell 28/Jun AltLd O/S

Late evening mission! Big swells saw me belay well above the ledge in the corner. Rob led a hard trav out into the route and ran 1st two pitches together. Meanwhile the waves soaked the trav out. I couldn't get onto the traverse as it was too wet so "ingeniously" swung out holding onto the abb rope. Found myself out of contact with the rock but luckily just managed to claw myself on and not take a lead fall into the raging sea. Escaped up behemoths top pitch as it was getting dark

with Robbie
Hidden 17/Apr Lead
mike mo ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
markalmack 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

lead p2 - good!

with gwen, james marjot
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 25/Jul/14 2nd

Start was slimy and covered in seaweed but rock above was immaculate with some really cool delicate moves. Struggled on steeper top pitch.

with ali k
tim newton 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Jon lead Pitches 1 & 2 in a oner, I lead pitch 3

Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
rurp 31/May/13 TR O/S

shunt, hard greasy and scary

Adam Booth 18/May/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Elbows were high on the final crack!

Ed Booth 18/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led p 2+3 in one.

with PJ ( Belgium), Adam Booth
Hidden 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
soph ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
oliver.ghill91 10/Jun/11 2nd O/S
HamishD ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Oliver Hill
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd
Pippa 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Middle pitch only. High tide and raining.

with Jon
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

P1 and 2 run together

Bobby Gilbert 10/May/10 Lead O/S

With Stefan from Swedan on BMC international meet.

with Stefan Lindblom
phil64 ?/Apr/10 Lead
Luke Brooks 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
John Southworth 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3. Excellent summer evening ascent to start a great weekend

with Chris Snell
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
PaulTanton 01/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
feilx 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Harper
Bern ??/2006 -
jfletcher 25/Jul/00 AltLd
with Tom Wells
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 -
Gregory ??/1997 AltLd
with dave langrish
Hidden 07/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Bruce Kerr 15/Jul/89 Lead
with Keith Turton
Hidden ?/Jul/89 AltLd dog
Hidden 27/Sep/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ?/May/85 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom McCabe, Hidden, Lenny, Stevie989, Hidden, AlexD, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ian Jones, Hidden, Chris_barr, Hidden, JerryD, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set