25m. An engaging sustained climb, with an airy finish up the highest part of the wall. Good value.
Climb the right side of the shallow scoop, and wall above, past three bolt runners to a small ledge. Move up easily to the larger ledge above (bolt) then continue up the tricky slim ramp (bolt) to a bolt at the base of the prominent orange scar. Climb a short crack past a peg and a bolt until level with the right end of a narrow overhang. Clip a bolt just above then climb across and up left to better holds and a final bolt runner. Finish directly up to a new double ring abseil station at the end of the good rock.

Originally E2 5c (with three bolts). The line was retro-bolted in 2012.

G A Jenkin, A Tallant, direct start 12/6/1991 (indirect with M Ward, P Jarvis, 12/6/1991) 12/Jun/1991

just one more 24/May Lead rpt
with rich h, Max B
blaza1 16/May Lead rpt
with Sam Young
Hidden 06/May Lead
JamesBewley 05/May TR dog

A nice long climb, felt a bit pumped and needed to rest before getting over the little overhang to the top. Will be back to lead it one of these days.

Hidden 30/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Apr Lead O/S
jalien 20/Apr Lead β

Nice route, easiest of the 6b's so far, lots of no-hands rests (once you get past the first few moves!)

kenneM 14/Apr Lead rpt
with Chris
Hidden 06/Apr Lead G/U
EmilyElouise 28/Mar Lead O/S
with SJ
Nathan Chrismas 20/Mar Lead dnf

Got the first two quickdraws in and worked the first section. Will be back to redpoint the rest of the route .

with Michaela
GraMc 19/Mar Lead O/S
with bryher, bryn
evhall 28/Feb Lead rpt
with David
Billg 14/Feb Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
guy xavier percival 20/Jan Lead
with Helen
Hidden 16/Jan Lead O/S
kenneM 15/Nov/15 Lead rpt
with Chris
Samuel P 08/Nov/15 Lead O/S

This is very sustained. No hard moves but it never stops. Wanted to try the right hand finish but was just to tired. Luckily the finish via the left isn't to hard.

with Tommy
Hidden 08/Nov/15 2nd O/S
Gibbo 01/Nov/15 Lead
with Ed Wright
Hidden 17/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Benjaminblanc 18/Aug/15 Lead β

Lead with quickdraws in. Very nervous and shaky start as I thought 6b was at my limit, turns out not!

with James Norris
kenneM 13/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Chris
steve_gibbs 04/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
Gibbo 30/Jul/15 Lead
with Matt Ward
GridNorth 28/Jul/15 Lead

Did this when it was a pseudo trad route. It's better in it's current form and well worth doing.

with James Reeley
Hidden 14/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Kev Little ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
nickwhimster 25/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with dan
Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead
Michael Little 22/Jun/15 Lead
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Steph
vertigo 07/Jun/15 Lead β
with Simon
pscholl 25/May/15 Lead rpt

11 bolts (+ 2BB), not 9 as in the topo

with Tania
Tom Seccombe 19/May/15 Lead O/S
with max goodman
hipyhop 16/May/15 Lead G/U
with Cherelle
Phil Murray 09/May/15 2nd rpt

Not a warm up, hence pulled on 2nd clip.

with Steve Wright
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 22/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Tom Barratt
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead
hutchay 21/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Dave Clover
Bates 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Pete swaine
sideshow84 16/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Lead G/U
Tim_C7 ?/Apr/15 Lead
Dan Jenkin 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
RichyBOYY 06/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Joe
JoeE 06/Mar/15 2nd
evhall 24/Dec/14 Lead rpt
with David
hutchay 14/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Was going to do the alternate finish, but it started raining and it didn't look friendly in the wet.

with Rose, Emily Palmer
Cheese Monkey 28/Nov/14 2nd rpt
with Eric
ericinbristol 28/Nov/14 Lead O/S
evhall 25/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with David
Hidden 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 10/Oct/14 Lead dog
shaunstar9 28/Sep/14 Lead dog

Chepstow Zombie Finish....might have been a bit strenuous for a warm-up!! Got through the harder moves at the bottom no problem, just pumped at the overhang!

with Leigh
leigh 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd O/S
abtibbs 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Attempted for the second time this month having just got back into outdoor climbing. Managed to do it clean with preplaced quickdraws.

hutchay 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead
pheotleyr 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
steve phillips 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

good route

pscholl 11/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with TomJ
FernandoHidalgo 10/Jul/14 TR dog

Beginning really polished, nice route after that.

afrosam 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with DaveX
abtibbs 03/Jul/14 Lead dog

Dogged at first bolt. First outdoor climbing for a while, need some practise.

sideshow84 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
zcsharp 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead rpt
DorsetGareth 27/Jun/14 Lead β
Jon_Warner 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I like this route.

with Chaz Mc'Dee
Stanners 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

great route. Intended to finish off on the right hand variation but basically seemed more easy to finish up straight! probably all the chalk showing the holds!

Jon_Warner 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

It's a quarry route, but it's a very good quarry route.

with Tom Jordan
TomJ 18/Jun/14 Lead

Watch out for a few loose flakes on the final clip

Quarryboy 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Crux is the start with some kind of sloping holds after which though you can kind of just chill and go into casual climbing mode.

Hidden 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
George Frisby 09/Jun/14 Lead RP

Had a few goes at the bottom to work out the sequence, then did the whole thing clean. Bottom section is the 6B bit really, rest is fairly easy.

clams ?/Jun/14 Lead

Run out at top - bit psychlogical for a sport route

CatMc ?/Jun/14 2nd dog
with clams
steve_gibbs 21/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ollie Stevens
chrisscutt 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with ant
Hidden 19/May/14 TR O/S
Nialllusby 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with Emma Ross, Iain bridges
Phil Murray 14/May/14 AltLd dog

Top roped to half height, on pre-placed gear, then led to overlap. Pulled above this, slightly to the right, and a jug just came away! I've done this route many times, and this hold was chalked. Off I wanged, onto bolt/peg. Then carried on after a quick check. Hmmm! Bizarre - surely this is a trade route now?

with Steve Richardson, Shaunagh Harvey-Kelly
just one more 19/Apr/14 -

A good varied route,prob only 6a+

with LucasHarazin, Max B
LucasHarazin 19/Apr/14 Lead β
Gibbo 15/Apr/14 Lead
with Jimbo Latimer
Ricky Rocks 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
James Marshall 05/Apr/14 Lead β
with rich hard rock
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead RP
tommy.henriksson78 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
hankyc ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
bonelessivar 24/Mar/14 Lead RP

Z-clipped the second bolt, lowered off then got it clean on first proper attempt. Hard start. Cold fingers.

with Alan
DaveX 16/Mar/14 Lead dog

One fall on warm up. Some interesting runouts.

_m.cox_ 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
evhall 19/Jan/14 Lead rpt

Twice today

with Jon
mallardhealhook 19/Jan/14 Lead rpt
with Evhall
evhall 12/Jan/14 Lead rpt
with Mike D
evhall 11/Jan/14 Lead dog

cold hands!

with jerzy
Cheese Monkey 09/Jan/14 Lead rpt
with Shaun
evhall 24/Dec/13 Lead dog
with goat
mallardhealhook 24/Dec/13 Lead dog
with Evhall
Alex Winter 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Pleasant. Tricky start.

with Joe
JKinsella 24/Oct/13 Lead β

Basically the same as its neighbour!

with Alex
Kemics 23/Oct/13 Lead rpt

First post-injury climb. Climbed again to recover draws. I was told 6a+ and have sand bagged many people. Hard start either way.

with Marta
crimpylewis 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
AndrewCollins ?/Sep/13 Lead RP

first ever outdoor climb on top rope...

with Finan
Justin T 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy, Wayne
Gibbo 13/Aug/13 Lead
with Kath Rosedale, Tom Sutherland
Spacetourist 02/Aug/13 Lead
tom.e 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Gibbo 25/Jul/13 Lead
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
Chubbard 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really good. Quite long.

with Derek
Tim M 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Steve W
katherinesydney 09/Jun/13 2nd rpt

found this so much easier than i did earlier in the week! helps not to faff too long at the beginning...

with tom kett
Phil Murray 05/Jun/13 Lead RP

Crux is the bottom! Steady thereafter. Very plesaing; some bolts spaced but easy ground.

with Steve Wright
katherinesydney 04/Jun/13 2nd dog

good route with some nice moves and sequences not always immediately obvious. that, and we're super unfit: that's why we rested our way up and took for-ages... (F6b?)

Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
jas128 26/May/13 2nd β
MikeC59 24/May/13 2nd

rained when near top

with Ian L
Phil Murray 23/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ian Law
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
thomb 12/May/13 Lead
James S 12/May/13 Lead O/S

really enjoyed this actually. never too hard but still quite technical so keeps you interested. 6b bolted?

with tom, caleb
BeccaSnowden 30/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Tom
thomasadixon 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Becca
richiebongo 22/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd dog
tommy.henriksson78 09/Mar/13 Lead dog
Brian H 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Ragingpossum 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Lowered off on the bolt below the rusty peg. Didn't fancy the run out to the next bolt.

Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead
Cheese Monkey 07/Feb/13 Lead β


with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 07/Feb/13 TR dnf

Worked the moves up to the first bolt which I found hard but doable.

with Ben
frank ramsay 03/Feb/13 Lead
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 03/Feb/13 Lead rpt
evhall 27/Jan/13 Lead rpt
with goat
Marti999 24/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

There's a new right hand variation at the top, very nice consistent route, with a tricky start.

karenhh 18/Nov/12 2nd dog
Didymus 07/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Surprisingly good now recently retrobolted. F6a+/b?

with Gordon
pheotleyr 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

approximately this line (i think) is now retro-bolted as a sports climb. start is maybe soft F6b, afterwards about 20 meters of F6a / F6a+ climbing. actually very enjoyable!

Aaron Lines 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with martin
Hidden 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2003 -
AndySL 22/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Francis
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High 6b+
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Votes cast 21
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set