Fool's Paradise** VS 4c
[Fool's Paradise 3rd pitch, Gowder Crag, Borrowdale, 3 kb]110m, 6 pitches. Start at the left end of the buttress. P1. Climb the slippery and dirty looking blunt rib to a sloping grassy ledge at the bottom of a corner. Belay off the rotten S-shaped stump. P2. Step left and feel around the arete to find good holds. Swing around and climb the wall just left of the arete on positive holds. Use your nut key to dig for wire placements. Step right onto a ledge and a tree belay. P3. Go right, climb down about 5 metres and quickly skip over the ant hill. Traverse further right to a small tree then climb diagonally up and right to the blocks of doubtful stability under the black roof. P4. Step back left and climb a steep corner to a ledge. P5. Traverse right past some trees and a large flake to a yew tree at the bottom of deep black chimney. P6. Climb the lower chimney, over some jumbled rocks, then step left and follow the upper chimney to the top.

Ticklists: Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Best 25 BORROWDALE VS/HVS's, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District.

Photo: Fool's Paradise 3rd pitch, Gowder Crag, Borrowdale © Andy S
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 288 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

All the main pitches except the 10m traverse to the yew tree. The killer ants and jungle feel on the first pitch made this a total 3 star adventure. Possibly THE best pitch I've ever done up the final chimney? Spectacular belay to finish and just couldn't stop grinning. I miss the Lakes :( Back to avon!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Andy G

CreepingExcellence. - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Rob Stanfield

Great adventure, shitty first pitch, 2nd bold, third mobbed by aggressive ants, 4th steep and intimidating, 5th has a very large pinnacle waiting to go, 6th in the dark! Excellent route but in no way a soft touch VS.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Joe dickens

Led the top pitch. A great climb. 'That hold' at the start of the second pitch is a god-send. First and fifth pitches are a bit dodgy but the rest is excellent.
JoeDickens - AltLd - 24/Jul/14

Very slightly underwhelmed by this route. Maybe it was the overgrown 1st pitch, the loose rock, the hideous looking final chimney or just the thousands of huge ants! Pitch 2 probably had the best climbing but felt committing and not that well protected.
asmith37 - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Bex Leigh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/14

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/14

moose ridd - AltLd - 16/May/14 with M.Sadler

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14

Fantastic, varied climb.
Mike Hewitt - AltLd β - May/14 with Jim Fairey

Hidden - 2014

jon59 - 2014

There was a very recent rock scar on the traverse right to the last pitch and a HUGE pinnacle balanced on very little....this will go sometime over the winter I expect..take care.
tmawer - AltLd - 13/Oct/13 with Bram

BTphonehome - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with Tony

Hidden - 22/Sep/13

Led P1, 2 and 4.
Brendan - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Paul

lead pitches 1,3,5+6
jonnysims - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Amy Till

Dervey - AltLd - 13/Aug/13

In damp conditions pitch one very slippy and quite bold but the rest was brilliant!
Calum Wadsworth - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Chris

Interesting! Bottom pitch slimey, top pitch exciting. Traverse full of ants.
Tilt - AltLd - Aug/13 with jonnysims

guisboro andy - AltLd - Aug/13

Matt Poole - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Paulina Pilarska

Led P3,4 bit green in places but great climb
Steveo87 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Bill Kemball

guided. bit dirty on P1 but the holds stand out from the moss. really good varied climbing throughout.
lithos - Lead - 06/Jul/13 with ccc

jogh - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Vincent

vinni - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with James

nrgchapp - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Michael

I led p4. Linking p1&2 looked like rope drag hell.
Siderunner - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Brad J, John E

Lead all pitches. Great route, gear where you need it and great moves! Ants add to the excitement. Great alternative to the busy near by crags!
crag_hopper_Jay - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Hannah Renshall

sunshine.hannah - 2nd - 06/May/13 with James Sanders

cmaradcliffe - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Mar/13

Freezing. Great Route!
Pohil - Lead - 21/Feb/13 with Ed Watson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/13

Hidden - 2013

robbo157 - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

robbo157 - 2013

tobyk - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Emma Akam

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/12

Climbing the 2nd pitch of Revenge of the Giant Climbing Ants, tried to follow the rest of that route but think we did this one instead! First pitch of slime was the crux...
maria85 - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Jules

nice climb apart form the scrappy 1st pitch and massive ants on the traverse!
Dan Geh - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Thomas Geh

tgeh - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with dan geh

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/12

great route made more interesting by the ants - last pitch is loose - take care
nia - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with harry

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 05/Jun/12 with Kevin Colclough

J25 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Alex Thompson

Good fun in the sun. Led 1&2 together, J25 led 3&4 together, then alt to the top. Top chimney looks like it will go any second...
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with JonnyO

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

I seconded all 6 pitches
aleckirby - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12

MartinLister - Lead - 26/May/12 with Peter Brown

Lovely climbing, all four of the main pitches are different and a joy
pffft - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with James West, Naomi Havercroft

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/12

Great variety of climbing, felt soft for VS
williap - Lead - 05/May/12 with Hartley

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/12

DNF due to the ants on P3!
wilkie14c - Lead dnf - 27/Mar/12 with Mark Wilson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/12

tomhull - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/12 with matt harris

Ian Hinkins - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

Hidden - 2012

JonG - 2012

cballard - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

joe_lancs - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11

lead pitches 1,3,5. Took pesticide to kill the ants.
Olli-C - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/11 with Rachel Slater

lead pitch 2,4,6. Nice route.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Olli Crudge

Wish I lived in the Lakes.
David Bulley - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Nathan Gibson

Led 1st pitch of 4. Awesome chimmney ont he last pitch. Make sure you choose the correct line for the 1st traverse (lower better than higher) so you don't have to teeter back to the ledge with millions of giant killer ants!
Krys81 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Andy Stark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11

Bobbyonrock - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11 with ChrisDine

DaveAtkinson - AltLd - 09/Aug/11 with Richard Hewison

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/11

KevB - 2nd - 13/Jul/11 with Rob Reynolds

Kirill - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Paul Bolton

cem - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Natalia Male Alcalde

Led P2 and P4.
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11

chris smith - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

ChrisBrooke - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/11 with Keeley Scholes

P2 (4c), P4 (4b), P6 (4b)
Ellie79 - AltLd - 24/Apr/11 with Mike C

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/11

Neil D - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with Beth Hodgett

Angered some pretty massive ants on the first traverse...
Betha. - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/11 with Neil D

Lead Pitches 2,3 & 6...really good route!
buddha1369 - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Adam G (OB)

Pitches 1, 3 and 5
oliverk - AltLd - 27/Mar/11 with Malcolm

Brilliant route. Led both traverses and the chimney (pitches 3,5 & 6). Do not anger the wood ants!
graphiclunarkid - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with PontiusPirate

Led pitch 2 and 4. Attack of the ants on pitch 3!!!
Leelogs - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with SCC

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11

got a little lost on route, very overgrown on first couple of pitches!
iwebster59017 - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/11 with Ryan Mcglen

Hidden - 2011

Bob - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Fantastic route, really interesting and varied, as previously mentioned watch out for the massive ants! There has been a pretty huge rockfall from next to the belay below the final chimney, be really careful on the traverse approaching the belay as there are some massive blocks that are just about to go.
the_keef - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Rob, Andy Ford

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/10

Adam1973 - AltLd rpt - 03/Jul/10 with Dave Wynne

Watch out for the ants!!
David Wynne - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with Adam Burt

KevB - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Student

On second pitch I took variation start #2 and Cath took on the Revenge of the Climbing Ants!! Traverse on P3 wonderful. Finish by a steep chimney in an incredible position.
Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 10/Jun/10 with Cath Sullivan

warning............ loads of loose rock, some block are leaning out ready to go!
martrin - AltLd - 18/May/10 with Colin Smith

bazpearson - 2nd O/S - 04/May/10 with pete stollery

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/10

nice traverse pitch - weirdly feels intimidating until you get going across.
Little B - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Andy S

Don't do this if you're not really solid at VS! 2nd pitch sparse on gear and very airy last pitch. A magical mystery tour of Gowder Crag! Very enjoyable in an esoteric, loose boulders kind of way.
Andy S - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/10

r_findlay - AltLd - 09/Apr/10 with stu_buchan43

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

clint87 - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09

ccraigg22 - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Jack Loftus., Nick

Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Craig, Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/09

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Matt Jones

Led 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches.
Matt Bill Platypus - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Adam

Led pitches 1,2,3 and 5. First pitch is a bit green, but don't be tempted by the higher start to the right! Also, be very careful as there are some pretty hefty sized blocks that are loose on the 4th pitch.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Hannah Evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/09

mikecollins - AltLd - 20/Aug/09 with manmike

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Aug/09

ginja1980 - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/09

all pitches amazing *** in my book
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Pete aka Dad

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Murray

fantastic route. with the ants i felt like indiana jones! all i needed was a whip and a brown fendora hat!
hawkins321 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with justin brewitt

Care required with the hollow blocks - potential for more accidents if not cautious.
GPN - AltLd - 19/Jul/09 with Annette

Only led the bushwhacking pitch! First pitch very very dirty, second pitch not well protected, third pitch has an exciting move off an ant hill at the start of the traverse (got bitten), fourth pitch excellent, though a bit loose, same goes for the top pitch.
net - AltLd - 19/Jul/09 with George

luke46 - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

Peter Holder - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Adam Rawlings

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Clare

Led p 2, 5 & 6
cem - AltLd O/S - 14/May/09 with Steve Gould

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Jamie Tattersall

Led P1,3&5. Dan Definitely got the harder pitches. A bit of an odd route, though with some nice climbing.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Dan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/08 with Harold Edwards

Hidden - Jul/08

Wandered around a bit & on checking the guide afterwards, we didn't go the right way. Good situation though.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Clive Greenwood

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/08

My first multi-pitch climb. Lots of fun, expecialy topping out on the final, terrifying chimney pitch. Second all pitches except the final traverse and chimney
jugglingeek - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08 with Paul Cookson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/08

bit of a mission !! didnt start til 4 and got to first belay in a hail storm, realised we were off route, returned back to route but weren't liking the persistance of vegatation! decided to escape up the mossy grove before starting the traverse
Neil Mackenzie - AltLd dnf - 05/Apr/08 with mark

markhowley - AltLd dnf - 05/Apr/08 with Neil

Sean Kelly - 2008

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Mike

Kazza91 - 2008

This route will all fall down one day
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Malcolm Airey

Great outing.
IanJackson - Solo O/S - 14/Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/07

colin milton - AltLd - 27/Aug/07 with dominic

VS4c 6 pitches. Went off route!
Mike Lee - 2nd - 10/Aug/07 with Jim

led p1-2 and p6 with Nic
Maz J - AltLd - 2007

Alaric - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Syd F

mikekeswick - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with tommy

barney_edin - AltLd - 28/Jun/06 with Geoff M

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/06

Climbed way off route due to moss. Got to the top of the crag but wouldnt qualify this as completing the route.
climberuk - 2nd dnf - 27/Apr/06 with Dan Fincham

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/06 with Simon

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 2006

craigswoods - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Phil

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/05

Howard J - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/05 with John Turner

steve prior - AltLd - Apr/05 with Roger C

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 26/Mar/05 with David Jones

Wayne S - 2005

climbtim - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/04

kickaha4 - 2nd - 23/May/04 with Karl Rowe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/04

beaumap - 2nd - 10/Apr/04 with Peter Camp

BlueJohn - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Mick Stockdale

John Kettle - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Oct/03

Hidden - Jul/03

jason - AltLd - 07/Jun/03 with ste

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Jun/03

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/02 with Paul Willis

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/02

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - May/02 with Richard Bower

kato'sdad - AltLd - 2002 with Rob Simpson

Lakesben - Lead - 2002

RobSimmo - AltLd - 2002 with Jon Berry

joe king - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/01 with Ed Coote

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/01

biggianthead - 20/May/01 with T

Hidden - 2001

malc - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/00 with CL

joe king - 2nd O/S - Aug/00 with simon ringrose

Hammy - Lead - 11/Jul/00 with Derek Hodgeson

clive-greenwood - AltLd - 26/Mar/00 with Moss

biggianthead - 16/Mar/00 with HT

gypsy3006 - Lead - 2000

simon cox - 2000

Led 2,4&6
Iain Thow - AltLd - 05/Oct/99 with Alex Doherty

stokienomad - AltLd - 02/May/99

Hammy - Lead - 31/Aug/98 with Sally Robinson

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 13/Aug/98 with Jenny Kerr

stokienomad - AltLd - Jul/98

Hidden - 12/Jun/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1998

PeteCheung - 1998 with Ian

Hammy - Lead - 05/Oct/97 with Penny Excel

rogerskews - AltLd - 1997 with Martin Coward

biggianthead - 06/Sep/96 with G

Done this a couple of times. nice route
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - 21/Jun/96 with Richard Bower

icescrew - AltLd - May/96 with Can't remember

Steve Lenartowicz - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

JiveWeasel - Lead O/S - Jun/94

Hammy - Lead - 03/May/93 with Richard Munro

Hidden - Solo - 04/Jul/92

The Ants nest climb variant...
ferret newman - Lead - Jun/92 with Moira

daprince - Jun/92

Rog Wilko - Lead - May/91 with Debbie Wilkinson

neilh - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/91 with sara hyde

Hammy - Lead - 20/Apr/90 with Pete Smith

Pete Pozman - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/90 with John Byrne

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Jul/88

BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/88 with Mike Gibbison (Hairy)

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - Jul/86 with Phil

biggianthead - 19/May/86 with HT

no ants if you do it in winter - views are better too
EddieA - Lead O/S - Nov/84 with Mark

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1984 with Various

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1984 with Various

sadams - Lead - 20/Dec/83 with Mark Bonham

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/83

biggianthead - 21/Jun/83 with G

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/83

JohnHutch - AltLd - 23/Apr/83 with JR, L

Richard Weller - AltLd - Apr/83 with Ant Osborne

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 10/Apr/82 with Gerry Dunford

Hidden - 2nd rpt - Mar/82

babymoac - AltLd - 14/Feb/82 with MTW

MikeDowsett - AltLd - 1982 with Andy Lynch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/81

John Marsland - AltLd - 16/Sep/81 with Tony Rex

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/81 with Richard Dickenson

Hammy - AltLd - 15/Mar/80 with Rob Lawson

Lord of Starkness - Lead β - 1980 with Stu Ely

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - Lead - 1979

Hidden - 1979

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 27/Aug/78 with Sarah Bridge

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Jul/78

Hidden - Lead - 04/Mar/78

Tom V - 1978

GeoffG - AltLd - 06/Mar/77

beware the ants!!!!
climbing_goose - AltLd O/S - 1977 with dave colsey

Falko - AltLd O/S - 22/May/76 with Howard Lancashire

Hidden - Lead - Apr/76

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Feb/76

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1976 with Billy Jones

tapley - Lead - 20/Jul/75 with Alison Tapley

Attempt on climb abandoned after first pitch in very bad conditions of sleet, hail and wind. Rocks very wet
Peter Main - 2nd dnf - 13/Jan/74 with Robin Andrews

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 04/Aug/73 with Andy Brown

mikej - AltLd - 11/Feb/73 with John Bickerdyke

Well worth it. Climbed several times - once by headtorch! The ants swarming up the rope seem to be an enduring feature - they were there in 1972!
granitbahn - AltLd - May/72 with Rick Reeve

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 14/Jul/71 with Tim James

greenbuoy - AltLd - 27/Jun/71 with Bob Lister

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 22/Jun/69 with Bob Knapton

RichardMc - Lead - 01/Mar/69 with Alan Thompson

DONE VARIOUSLY SINCE
David Smith - Sep/67

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mussonlr, Paul_scott89, Danny Crump, npanderson, guhj, da_cox, Jonathan Spooner, chrisandreou, jl, ben bainbridge

Voting
Total votes cast 134
hard HVS0 of 45
HVS0 of 45
easy HVS0 of 45
hard VS5 of 45
VS34 of 45
easy VS4 of 45
hard HS2 of 45
HS0 of 45
easy HS0 of 45
hard 5a0 of 44
5a0 of 44
easy 5a0 of 44
hard 4c2 of 44
4c34 of 44
easy 4c5 of 44
hard 4b3 of 44
4b0 of 44
easy 4b0 of 44
3 Stars29 of 45
2 Stars13 of 45
1 Star3 of 45
0 Stars0 of 45
Bag of .....0 of 45
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Style of ascent

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Lead
Followed
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Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
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Clean rpt
dnf