Monmouthshire > Wyndcliffe >
 
The Firebird* E1 5a

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Dave-Westlake - 18/May/13

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Tom Adams

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Jan/13

WalnutHorse - Lead O/S - 19/May/12

Gear not good - especially at start
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Rich Rogers

sustained 5a all the way up
Chris Sieradzki - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Hooo

Some good technical moves, and sustained bits. Really enjoyed it on second and had no trouble, but I'm definitely not ready to lead it. A fall off the move onto the sloping ledge would almost certainly deck. I was preparing to jump backwards off a 2m drop if he fell there.
Hooo - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Chris Sieradzki

The first 10m were basically a solo, so not soft for E1! Maybe I could have found gear with a bit more imagination... Definitely worth it for the climbing in the upper groove
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Craig

CraigMcAteer - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with nick

what a sand bag at HVS! no good gear until two thirds up the climb, all lose rattly rock
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Sam

Lovely route! Gear is sketchy in the bottom part, and a bit spaced but fine after that, pretty steady 5a, lovely moves and a big feel to it!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Simon Slater

Different Steve - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/11 with Emma Hawkins

hard 5a
Fred_Richard - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Andy Mccoy

AndyMcCoy - 2nd - 28/Jul/11 with Fred

simonf - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Vince McNally - 2nd β - 02/Jul/11 with Sumee Holloway

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Elena Songprasert, Gary Lewin

Nice climb, had advice on finding the jug above the bulge which helped.
The Ivanator - 2nd β - 24/Apr/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 24/Apr/11 with Ivan Bicknell

nice one - similar to zulu
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with steve tree

I thought this was tough for 5a???
SGD - Lead - 13/Mar/11 with Jonny WMC

Hidden - 2011

Good lead from Sarp, recovering his head and continuing after all his nuts fell out! Lovely sequences, looked puzzling to protect. Peg seems bomber.
jacobjlloyd - 2nd β - 13/Nov/10

James_86 - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with Rick

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/10 with Helen S

excellent top section. Bottom 1/4 had rather a lot of wobbly holds
hms - 2nd β - 30/Sep/10 with Brian

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/10

a tad bold at the bottom but fine from there, the upper groves are interesting and good as well. Contrasting climbing.
lithos - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10

gdb4060 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Will

theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

gdb4060 - Lead - 22/Apr/10 with Will

eagleopus - 20/Sep/09 with Gareth

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Mark Glaister

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with G.Lewis

cornishben - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Gareth Pratt

DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Ben Sutton

Misha - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09

Consistently challenging all the way up
Francois S - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Simon Chandler

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Eric Herring

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Jamie Ward

jamie ward - 2nd - 26/May/09 with Toby Dunford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

Fantastic - sustained and intersting moves in a great position! Didn't find much dodgy rock on the first section so maybe it's been pulled off by now - there's a few reasonable small/medium wires to protect this bit too and plenty of gear above.
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Sam

al99 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Al Benson

leigh - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Ed

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/08

First E1 for 18 years! Great route except for run-out and loose rock on lower section.
poey50 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Chris W

dave657 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Tim

Tim W - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Dave Ripley

Loose flakes a bit worrying
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/08 with Clare

fell searching for a hold over the bulge, centimetres from the enourmous jug!
Mark Walter - Lead dog - 17/Feb/08 with Paul Black

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/07

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07 with dean howard

cem - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Pete Atkinson

Found it hard for HVS too. Quite plausibly E1 by Wye Valley standards, though I won't rush to vote it as such in case I'm just being soft!
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/07 with GD

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Feb/07

I was surprised how hard I found this, and would agree with the suggestion that it could be E1. Quite serious for the first 30ft. I was 17 when I first led it, I think I just assumed you were supposed to be terrified on lead.
Wil Treasure - Lead - 15/Sep/06 with PeteR

Classic E0
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Nov/03 with Ady Short

First HVS.
Wil Treasure - Lead rpt - Mar/03 with AdamW

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/01

Hidden - Lead - 1997

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - Sep/96 with Marcus

Backinthegame - 2nd - Jul/93 with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1989 with Dr. Jeremy

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
saz_b, ron244, bluerockman

Voting
Total votes cast 87
hard E20 of 29
E20 of 29
easy E20 of 29
hard E11 of 29
E121 of 29
easy E16 of 29
hard HVS1 of 29
HVS0 of 29
easy HVS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 30
5b0 of 30
easy 5b8 of 30
hard 5a7 of 30
5a14 of 30
easy 5a1 of 30
hard 4c0 of 30
4c0 of 30
easy 4c0 of 30
3 Stars2 of 28
2 Stars14 of 28
1 Star12 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Lead41 of 66 (62.1%)
Followed21 of 66 (31.8%)
Unknown4 of 66 (6.1%)

'Climbed'17 of 66 (25.8%)
clean O/S40 of 66 (60.6%)
clean β4 of 66 (6.1%)
clean rpt3 of 66 (4.5%)
dogged2 of 66 (3.0%)