Desolation Row** E2 5b
[Remus high on Desolation Row, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A prized pitch that is very sustained but can be adequately protected by a very large number of small wires. Take extra quickdraws. Start near the left edge of the Upper West Face where a shallow groove is capped by a small overhang. Enter the groove from the right and climb to a small overhang. At the small overhang move up and left around the arete. Climb past the right end of a huge roof and then move right with difficulty to join cracks which are followed all the way to the top. Move up steep grass to find a belay. © ROCKFAX

Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 14/Sep/1969

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: Remus high on Desolation Row © benkelsey
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/15

Very good, take all your micros!
dready - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/15 with whiteexplorer

whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/15 with joe

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Duncan Campbell

Great Wall climbing
Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 27/Jun/15 with Robbie

soph - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Michaela Tracy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/15

Really enjoyed my first outing in the Great Zawn. Awesome route in a stunning setting. Very satisfying, technical moves. Very pleased I didn't fall off!
manbat - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Luke Randall

Waited 40 years to do this ! Great route.
sharpie - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with PL

Hidden - TR - 18/May/14

Top quality technical climbing all the way! Possibly one or two 5c moves, but definitely lots of 5b. Graham led it very deliberately, taking about 2 hours. I got a little cold at the bottom and was still shaking quite violently at the arete move. Warmed up a bit after that. The jungle at the top between Graham's belay and the abseil spike turned out to be harder, scarier and more unpleasant than anticipated.
Kirill - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Graham Dolman

AndyF - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Ian G

First ever route in Great Zawn. Great line, looks intimidating and the starting moves are hard for 5b but after that it's steady balancy crack climbing. I thought the gear was ok for the grade, a bit small and a bit run out in places but got 16 runners in and could have had more. The scary bit was the steep jungle at the top! Great to chat with Frank Cannings before and after the route. He said he had about 5 runners on the FA! I had 5 by the time I moved out onto the arÍte... With Viktor from Sweden on the BMC international meet.
Misha - Lead O/S - 16/May/13 with Viktor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/13

pezzerrr - 2nd O/S - 01/May/13

Not especially hard technically, I wouldn't have been happy with the gear though..
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Jon Stewart

Wow, big day out for me. Took absolutely ages on this, placed an entire rack of 21 QDs and several cams! Agree that this is a lot like Diabaig Pillar or Comes the Dervish. Pretty pushy climbing with some decent runouts, between good rests. Plenty of gear if you look around, not much of it that good. Brilliant route :)
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Andy March

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Marti

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with helen gibson

One of the most exciting and adventurous climbs I've ever done. After abseil in to the Great Zawn retreat would be hard work. Looking up from the depths of the Great Zawn Desolation Row looks daunting. After the start which looked slippery but wasn't the moves demand a clean focus that is just so enjoyable. Move after move of delicate balance and wondering whether there's a complication ahead. The topping out into a luxurious meadow is delightful. I just want to do it again.
Crank - Solo β - Sep/10

Dave Turnbull, BMC - 2nd - 15/May/10 with Nimrod (Israel)

With Stefan from Swedan on BMC international meet.
Bobby Gilbert - 2nd - 10/May/10 with Stefan Lindblom

phil64 - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead - 24/Jul/09 with Phil Robins / Iain Peters, Dee de Mengel, Craig Harwood

John Southworth - Lead - 27/Jun/09 with Woody

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

Sustained but with good rests. A brilliant route with enough gear with small cams and wires. Definately worth 3 stars
Urgles - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Fiend

Sidekick - Lead O/S - Jun/07

wojt - Lead O/S - Aug/06

jimdanson - 2nd O/S - 30/May/06 with Mike Adams

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2006 with Great place...I love it

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/05

Tim Steward - Lead - 19/Jun/05 with James Parrot

Paz - 2nd β - 19/Jun/05 with TS

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/04

cem - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/03

jfletcher - Lead - 31/May/03

peterbeaumont - Lead - Jul/02

Nigel Coe - Lead - 01/Jun/02 with Amnon

lost.arrow - 05/May/02

Great atmospheric route. Take lots of gear!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 2002 with Martin Dunning

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/01

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/99 with jim

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1999 with Lee Clement

Hamish Leslie - AltLd O/S - 1997 with Ste Lawler

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/96

Hidden - Lead - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/95

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/95 with Tim Noble

Steady for the grade, comparable to Diabeg Pillar, great route
neilh - Lead O/S - 07/May/94 with sara hyde

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Mark Kemball - Lead - Jul/91 with Alison Dorey

with Dave ( Drac) Sanderson
AB1965 - 21/Apr/90

Mike Owen - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/88 with Elaine Owen

Ashley Hold - 2nd - 04/Aug/88 with Simon Davies, Glyn Davies

jcw - 1988 with Simon Caterall, Simon Donowho

Billg - 2nd - 10/Aug/87 with Keith Sharples

Neil R - 2nd - 25/May/87 with Ian

steve L - 2nd - 21/Sep/86 with Alun Richardson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/85

Hidden - Lead - May/85

shark - Lead O/S - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/84

Campbell42 - Lead O/S - Aug/84 with Eric Marsden

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/84 with Ian Milne

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - 1980

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/79 with Elaine Watson

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Alan100, Motown, Alex the Alex, Dilwat, alexanderjwatts, nickstephens, Owen W-G, timo.t, climbingpixie

Total votes cast 68
hard E30 of 23
E30 of 23
easy E30 of 23
hard E21 of 23
E221 of 23
easy E21 of 23
hard E10 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E10 of 23
hard 5c0 of 22
5c0 of 22
easy 5c1 of 22
hard 5b2 of 22
5b19 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
hard 5a0 of 22
5a0 of 22
easy 5a0 of 22
3 Stars18 of 23
2 Stars4 of 23
1 Star1 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat