The original Oread route of the crag. Start on the right and take the easiest line up and left to a tricky move gaining a junction with the DNA arete. Continue across the face of the buttress to the top of OCM, before finishing up the little hanging groove. Awesome positions abound!

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade.

mickg777 ??/2014 Lead
thrutch 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sven
Ketu 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

hard crux, top end of 5a, excellent climb but not quite the mega classic I was expecting (see article in On Peak Rock guide book listing the top 8 climbs on gritstone compared to Rocksport's Original where Helix is listed along side the Peapod, Valkyrie, Suicide wall etc, which while it is good it isn't anywhere near in the same league), 2x abseils to get gear so rob could lead too

with Rob
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt

climbed the crux better on 2nd using a different sequence. Overall actually enjoyed it on 2nd better as I could relax completely whilst climbing

with Rob
Coel Hellier 03/May/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
chrishedgehog 20/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Hidden 22/Mar/98 2nd β
Gordon Stainforth 30/May/96 2nd
with Steve Dean, Chris Thorp, John Cutcliffe
Roget 01/May/92 Solo rpt
Roget ??/1988 2nd O/S
with jim
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, poeter210, Dan Lane, rustaldo, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set