Rockfax Description
24m. A major classic up the tallest buttress here and one of the best routes in Western Grit. Climb a tricky crack, a bulge then steeper cracks to a long move on a pocket to reach a huge flake (long tape runner). Reach the slab and ledges then step left and finish up the fine jamming crack to an awkward bulging exit. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans late 1950s 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

ataraxiasiege 15/Oct TR dnf
Joecartmell 15/Oct TR
Stanners 11/Oct Lead O/S

clipped Giles gear to the pocket where he had an argument with gravity. HARD stuff. or am I getting weaker..probably

with Giles
Luke Davies 04/Oct TR
mop449 04/Oct 2nd dog

Fell once at the crux. Hard for the grade but super fun!

with Phil Wright
dominic lee 27/Sep Lead O/S
with Pete O'Donnovan
Hidden 27/Sep 2nd dog
mark4344 27/Sep Lead dog

tough at grade.hard crack at start

with Michel
poeter210 26/Sep 2nd dog

Brilliant, but it's nails even for a sandbag!

druss 26/Sep Lead dog

Brilliant route despite coming onto the rope more times than I care to admit when I thought it would go on the flash. Much harder than it looks but well protected. Getting off the ground has hard technical moves before getting gear in. Possible to pre-place a wire by traversing in from the left. Good jamming essential. Will come for a clean lead again.

Kevster 26/Sep Lead O/S
with Lizzie
C May 20/Sep 2nd dog
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 20/Sep Lead O/S
with C May
Ironmax 19/Sep 2nd dog
with Luke Doherty
Kemics 10/Sep Lead O/S

Tape gloves really helped. Magnificent route. Possibly one of my best climbing experiences. Had to pull hard. Got wrong handed traversing on thin hands. Recovered. Slab was exciting and finish up wide crack was great fun. Made falling off all the thrutchy VS's seem worth it. Belayed watching a glorious sun set while swallows played and falcon(?) hunted. Best line i've climbed on grit. Mel didnt have as much fun.

with Mel
Brannock 29/Aug Lead rpt
Dan Geh 15/Aug Lead O/S

Amazing. One of the best HVS routes around.

tgeh 15/Aug 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Gabe Oliver 02/Aug Lead O/S

Top 50 ticking

No? Yes! 01/Aug 2nd

Hard transition right from initial cracks after getting pumped figuring moves without jamming technique !

danielroymoss 04/Jul -

again it was so good

danielroymoss 27/Jun -
James Oakes 26/May 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May Lead O/S
with noaks
benw681 23/May Lead O/S

Great route!

with Hannah
Andrew Wilson 19/Apr Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
DWebs 26/Oct/14 2nd dog
Nigel Bond 03/Oct/14 Lead
with Coel
Julesthe1st 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant! still have no feeling in my left hand after the hand jamming.

with Laura, Paul Wolf
brian watson 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
natalio 28/Sep/14 2nd dog

Chris led superbly. The start was peculiar, and took me a while to crack. It has some difficult sequences.

with Chris B
Martin Bagshaw 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Green, Chris CMC
Davidchatterton 11/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with heyhoot
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Sep/14 2nd dog
greenclimb 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
arthur_de_briton 07/Sep/14 Lead
with Alex Pickard
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
LRob 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 03/Aug/14 Lead
andybirtwistle 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead β

24/31. Great climb, amongst the best I've done.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt

24 on Staffordshire nose. Bad cramps. Arms spazzing all over the shop. Felt very ropey on the top, nearly sacked it in.

with Nick
soph 15/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Hoyes 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Found this hard. Hard HVS and hard 5b - although I think I somehow missed the pocket?!

Jules Lane 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Great lead by James and really fun to second. Spoilt by the slightly nightmarish finish.

NickyC 12/Jul/14 Lead
with Zain Karim
dunk3607 ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Ewano 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Quite physical but quality climbing. Top end HVS 5b

Jack93 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
charlielow 21/Jun/14 2nd dog
john_ni 13/Jun/14 2nd
with Nick Read
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Lead
Bryan M ?/May/14 2nd
soph 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 01/Mar/14 -
Will Hunt 01/Mar/14 Lead dnf

No comment

with Tom Nichols
Will Hunt 01/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with Tom Nichols
PAJames ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
1poundSOCKS 29/Sep/13 2nd β

This is a seriously tough HVS, I fell off it on lead, then managed to second it clean.

Fragmod 14/Sep/13 Lead

Got spat off unexpectedly on crux. Stiff little bugger!

Climbster 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead dnf
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Mike Turner 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Tala M 14/Jul/13 2nd dog

One rest as I missed a foot hold, I put that down to baby belly and having the knot from a full body harness right in my face :)

dan_blair87 03/Jul/13 2nd dog
hellboundblr 30/Jun/13 2nd
with Adrian Jones
adrianj 30/Jun/13 Lead
R0bbie 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with leighn
bobpilgrem 21/Jun/13 -
with Dennis
Sam Simpson 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
chrisbussell 11/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
WillDoyle 09/Jun/13 2nd
with Mike
vassy05 ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead dog
fatbuoybazza 26/May/13 2nd O/S

Helping out Dave, it's stiff at 5b tho..

with deborah
Chriswallis2 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Calum Wadsworth 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfairbank 05/May/13 2nd
farmerwad 05/May/13 2nd
with S.O.C.
Jenny Clarke ?/May/13 2nd
Chris Sansum 06/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Phil Gibson
jacobjacob 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Bit wet and surprisingly hard!

Hidden ??/2013 2nd
rob 528 ??/2013 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Amazing route, one of the best of its grade anywhere! Sustained, interesting, never too desperate but no easy climbing either and it's not all over when you hit the top crack.

with Andy
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Brown 22/Sep/12 2nd

Number Eight of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose

with Andy R
francois 22/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Not enough gear for the top crack.

with Chris
BelayBunney 22/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Took 3 falls trying to get to the big flake. Admitted defeat... :-( Poor show. Shame as it looks great!

Jimbo C 13/Sep/12 Lead

Pretty much the hardest thing I've led to date. Exhausting and never ending. Even the top moves are no pushover. Brilliant fun.

with Chris, Pete
julesmckim 09/Sep/12 Lead

Favourite route recently. Surprising moves at this grade, a thanks god pocket in just the right place, jamming, thin slab moves, great gear...it's got it all!

julesmckim 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Best route of its' grade on grit? Superb climbing throughout but especially the first half: surprising moves at this grade...just love the move right at the top of the jamming crack...and finding the "thank God" finger pocket

Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Truan 07/Sep/12 2nd dog
JamieSparkes 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

pretty stiff for HVS! pushy first half with poor jams, easier after the flake (120cm sling) but would still be tough at VS for this section as well!

Rob Davies ?/Aug/12 2nd
with Dave Nicol
Hannes B 30/Jul/12 2nd
with Francis
Thinker01 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Becster, Ralph Wilkinson
demarcation86 28/Jul/12 Lead dnf
with Paul
RFWilkie 28/Jul/12 Lead dog

Really struggled with bottom crack.

with Mark, Bec
becster 28/Jul/12 2nd
jasonpm 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Steve IMC
sambosanquet101 22/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd
Rich Kirby 12/Jul/12 2nd
with Ruth
Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
timmyhobby 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
R2B 05/Jul/12 2nd
stuaart 04/Jun/12 2nd

Nails at HVS. Harder than Hen Cloud Eliminate.

with Neil Redgrave
clipskipper 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Good route, with some tricky bits low down.

with Andy Gardner
Joey C 09/May/12 Lead dog
with Matt Stevens
Mike W 23/Mar/12 2nd
joese7en 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 ??/2012 Lead
with lee mercer
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 12/Dec/11 Lead
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
cat22 05/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
asmith37 05/Nov/11 2nd
Jim Slater 30/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Finally got this clean on lead, jeez.. that was a battle.

Graeme Hammond 30/Oct/11 2nd rpt

didn't climb this as well as when i led it.

with Jim
bigdrew 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
mark20 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
marcoleptic 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with max
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf
tmawer 15/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Jaime Robertson
Jim Slater 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

One of those 'feels harder than E1' HVS's!

Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S

a good warm up for a cold windy morning. fairly sustained til midway but with good gear then interesting jamming/laybacking up to and around the bulge.

Mike Lee 13/Jul/11 2nd

2nd Jim who led.. Hard!

with Jim
Chris Sansum 03/Jul/11 Lead dog

1 rest, just before flake. Should have grabbed flake above, but instead made it hard for myself by trying a stupidly long reach for a sloping sidepull! Brilliant route, and glad to finish it, after baling off it on a previous occasion.

with Nathaelle Bouttes
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd
Laurence Everitt 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

such hard work, but brilliant, hardest HVS i've done since Goliath's Groove!

alaan 25/May/11 2nd O/S
with Katy
deklan 02/May/11 Lead dnf
Jonathan Hall 28/Apr/11 Lead

Awesome route. Pleased to do this clean. Tricky start, tricky middle and tricky end.

with Will Ward
SteveM 22/Apr/11 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with SteveM
CharlieMack 18/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Andy
Jon Read 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tamati ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
sgl0jd ??/2011 -
thomasadixon 30/Oct/10 Lead dog

Shouldn't have tried it when already knackered, had to rest due to super pump just below the flake. Nice route.

with Mike
BeccaSnowden 30/Oct/10 Lead dog

Rested once at the horizontal crack. Still amazed I got that far without falling off! Found the top (VS) section almost as tough - think I was just exhausted by that point! Amazing route but so sustained! ****

Martin Haworth 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, worth 4 stars.

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 26/Sep/10 2nd dog
CharlieMack 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Stephen Fey
Speeddemonsi 18/Sep/10 Lead

Fell off first try because I am a douche and my footwork is douche-like.

hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Garron 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/Aug/10 Lead rpt
feilx 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Weighted rope once to remove ultra stuck nut. All moves done clean.

with Simon Chandler
JWB 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Hard first section.

jon_gill1 17/Jul/10 2nd dog

got over the crux section and the came to a stuck cam which i couldnt get out without weighting the rope!shame but next time il get it!

Different Steve 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hannes B 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Neil P
LittleClimbingMaria 29/Jun/10 -
joe1979 26/Jun/10 -
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd β
chris sm 05/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Ian Broome 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

very good value.

Tim M 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 Lead dnf

got 1/3 of the way up before it started raining. New to HVS so I backed off and abseiled to get the gear.

Mike Hegarty 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Steaming hot day..So not a good choice of routes..! Bloody hard work.!

with Lee
Pown 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 15/May/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
decs 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Tim, Bart
bullwinkle 24/Apr/10 2nd
with decs, Bart
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden ??/2010 -
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
dannyboy83 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
mattyork2 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Excellent!!!! you can't put into words how good this route is!

shed_hed 26/Sep/09 2nd

Slipped off the the lower crack whilst attempting to lay back it.

bridget143 19/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Lindy
Sankey 29/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Luke
jonka ?/Aug/09 Lead
with sean
Mr Wild 20/Jul/09 Lead
Alex Winter 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
craig d 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mick Fox
Jim Slater 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Very physical climb, happy to get a clean ascent on second!

with Trevor Wilson
Chris Sansum 23/May/09 AltLd dnf

Neither of us were in the mood for climbing above the gear, so ended up down-climbing and giving up(probably tired after lack of sleep and the drive up earlier on). Will be back!

with Gary Lewin
DavidEvans 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
DannyK 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Katie
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Dr Caterpillar 02/Nov/08 Lead dnf

will come back

with UBMC
Hidden 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/08 2nd
AndyM-LVB 03/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Very tough! Will come back to it...

with Brendan Ferguson
bullwinkle 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead rpt
Pete Graham 31/May/08 2nd
with Luke Porter
snakebite 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Nick Cox
Misha 03/May/08 Lead O/S

Admittedly I'm not great at jamming, but how can this be HVS? Ok, it's well protected, but also very sustained and pumpy, unless you're a grit guru. Great route though. Mary and Dave Birkett happened to do it after us and made it look ever so easy...

MD 03/May/08 2nd dog
with Misha
Jim Slater 26/Apr/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
nai 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Alastair
galpinos 06/Oct/07 Lead dnf

Something to come back to.

with Mike
Coel Hellier ?/Oct/07 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 15/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Rachel Hassall
BallsofBritishSteel 10/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Charles
cem 09/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Rob Truckle
shoulders 09/Sep/07 Lead
tonanf 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S

great! hvs my arse.

with burt
dan gibson 11/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
tatz45 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Duncan Skelton 29/Jul/07 2nd
with Kai Green
ebunick 08/Jul/07 2nd dog
with Jez
nige 08/Jul/07 Lead
with dave kells
deejmonkey 07/Jul/07 TR
with Andy D
Stig 19/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Goi
goi.ashmore 19/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with James Rees
Owen W-G 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Pumped silly by the jug and well-blooded at the top. Utterly desperate but perhaps THE essential western grit HVS. Brilliant.

with Robin
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
DannyK ??/2007 2nd
with pep
Si dH 21/Oct/06 2nd dog

Utter pumpfest, if anythig nfound it even harder than last year! Rested at end of traverse one move fro mthe jug :( Neil had to rest a couple of times as well.

with Neil Furniss
gregoritos ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
AJ007 24/Jun/06 Lead
with Brian
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with keith leonard
Stig 05/May/06 Lead dog
with Jonathan Teale
Ropeboy 09/Oct/05 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Sep/05 Lead rpt
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 13/Sep/05 2nd
Si dH 04/Sep/05 2nd dog

had to res tafter first bit of crack, after that did the rest to the top.

with Dan Jaeggi
Lawrence Eccles 03/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
AngelaC 28/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2005 -
eduardo ??/2005 Lead O/S

With Rob Tresize? 2005?

nickdonohue ?/Nov/04 Lead
with Jim Barradale
Rich Kirby 31/Oct/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/04 2nd β
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead
r0b 09/Apr/04 Lead dnf

So close! One move from easier ground. Freezing cold too.

with Mark Humphries
Jon Read ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S

Cold. Horrible.

with Dave Edmunds
aulda 10/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Dave R
Hidden 20/Jul/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead
IanGilbertJones 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
cem 15/Jun/03 Lead dnf

Gave up and let Rod take over.

with Rod Strachan
cem 15/Jun/03 2nd β
with Rod Strachan
Neil Ireson ?/Jun/03 Lead
with Jane
soph ??/2003 -
Milne 15/Oct/02 Lead dnf

tried this many many times, just seems too hard.

DubyaJamesDubya ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S

This and Delstree might be the best two HVS's on grit.

with Nik Howard
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
Gus ??/2002 -
Brian Rodgers ??/2001 Lead
with Helen Rea
Roget 23/Aug/00 Lead rpt
chrishedgehog 09/Apr/00 Lead RP
with Joe Thompson
bullybones ??/2000 Lead
ste_d 27/Sep/99 2nd rpt
with andy perkins
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/99 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Jul/99 Lead
with Rowan Cooper
Hidden 30/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/97 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/May/97 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1997 AltLd

mark lead pitch 1

Sean Kelly ??/1997 Lead

Very awkward! Scary ab off the top on a single new 9mm flying through the stitch plate!

with Keith Bolton
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/96 2nd
Gordon Stainforth 16/Aug/95 Lead dog

we finished up Great Corner in fading light

with John Cutcliffe
switch ??/1995 Lead O/S
mikedelderfield 12/Jul/94 Lead
ste_d 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with mik
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/92 2nd
with Pete Finklaire
Hidden 14/May/92 AltLd
RichardMc 10/May/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/92 Solo rpt
andrew300169 03/Apr/92 Lead O/S

I'd wanted to do this for ages and it doesn't dissapoitn brilliant climb

with Tim Jason
Andy Fielding ??/1992 Lead
with Mark Lardner
Hidden 31/Jul/91 Lead
whispering nic 29/Jun/91 Lead
with noj
NickJH ?/Jun/91 2nd O/S
with N Hancock
Hidden 05/May/91 2nd
sadams 30/Aug/90 Lead RP

1st RP can you believe it

with Mark Bonham
andybirtwistle 26/Jul/90 Lead
Roget 06/May/90 2nd O/S
with jim
Rob Davies ??/1990 Lead dnf

Hesitation before move R - mysteriously harder when leading

with Mick Moss
Hidden 30/Sep/89 2nd
dodders 20/Jun/88 2nd
with Dick Hargreaves
Rob Davies ?/Jun/88 2nd
Hidden ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1983 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/82 Lead
charlesmfrench 18/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Hammy 25/Jul/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Ken Taylor 15/Jun/80 AltLd
with Richard Langthorp
Hidden 20/Apr/80 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead rpt
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Lead
with Ken Taylor
Dave Musgrove 23/May/76 -
rogerskews ??/1976 -
with Martin Coward
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 105
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 98
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set