Cornwall > Vicarage Cliff >
 
Pandora HS 4b

Adjacent Climbs
<< A Dying Art
 
Lip Gloss >>
A testing pitch on the far left of the promontory that samples some surprisingly diverse territory. Start at some raised ledges at the seaward end of the promontory. 20m. Move up easily to just below an elongated protruding blob and then make some difficult moves leftwards up a finger-crack to a small overhang. Move left around the overhang into a narrow corner; make a move up and then quit this rightwards onto the right-hand face which leads quickly to the top. © ROCKFAX
Climb easy ledges to a difficult set of moves to gain the "blob" hanging from the Comes the Dervish like overlap. Move left to clear the overhang and gain the groove. Move right onto the face at the horizontal crack and whiz to the top. Crux well protected with wires, and eases once the commitment to gain the groove is made. May be a lot harder for the short

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 142 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/14

Popkids - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with Baz

steveprice.exmouth - Lead O/S - 14/May/14 with Graham Mead

Skip - 2nd rpt - 23/Mar/14

HS 4b is a more accurate grade than the rockfax one, the hardish move is well protected.
arandall - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with arandall

Still a brilliant route.
Joel Perkin - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/14 with Mike Garrett

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/14

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead - 04/Nov/13

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Tim

annak - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Lee Harrison

Semi-dry rock
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Anna Kennedy

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 20/Sep/13 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 07/Sep/13 with Rebecca

Slick - Lead - 07/Sep/13 with Mark VR, Kevin Vans-Colina

Pero - Lead - 26/Aug/13

callum brown - 2nd - 21/Jul/13 with Kev

Wevcore - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Callum

Michael-H - 2nd - 08/Jul/13 with rockpool

dready - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/13

a little strenuous, but nice moves and good gear
rockpool - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with michael h

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/13

mike88 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Hannah Good

Dave Rumney - Lead - 26/May/13 with Tanya Milner

masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Andy Rich

sshandy - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Masa - Avalanche Valley

Really nice line. Good gear throughout.
R2B - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Charlotte

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13

Hidden - 25/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

Bristoldave - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Caroline

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with David Brock

Skip - 2nd rpt - 03/Mar/13

Too cold in my bones to do Lip Gloss, my original intent.
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/13

MrWiggles - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13

Ian Miller - 2nd rpt - 24/Feb/13 with James Goss

Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/12 with Iain, Ian M, Goss

Ian Miller - 2nd β - 30/Dec/12 with Ben Darby

Skip - TR O/S - 21/Oct/12 with A Walker

A Walker - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with NeilOMalley, Skip

Ben seaman - TR O/S - Oct/12

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 29/Sep/12 with Nick Donohue

martin clarke - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with john frost

nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/12 with Steve Woollard

Whitmoreaa - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Dan Pinkney

peter.ravenscroft27 - Lead - 23/Aug/12

Really nice.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Becky E

Becky E - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond

saet1a - 25/Jul/12

mike lawrence? - Lead - 25/Jul/12 with Colin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12

Reds - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with andyc123

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jul/12

edmitchell - 09/Jun/12 with brmc members

Phil Layton - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Ed

yashvi - 08/Jun/12 with Jo Wimalasena, Edwin Mitchell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/12

Started to rain
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd rpt - 07/May/12

Really enjoyable climb, trickiest bit is getting off the ground. Once off the ground good climbing too the top.
Joel Perkin - Lead O/S - 07/May/12 with Dad

Listed as S in 1985 guide and VS in rockfax. HS 4b listed here when I did it is about right
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

Excellent climb.
Joel Perkin - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Dad

AJH - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Rebecca

Hamish777 - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Andrea

Excellent climb
andrea83 - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Hamish

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

stephen ashworth - Lead - 06/Apr/12 with nick andrews

climbhannahclimb - 2nd - 30/Mar/12 with Iain Adams

james chesmer - 2nd O/S - 2012 with Martin Chesmer

Lovely route on solid rock with some nice fingery and technical moves early on then easing quite a bit. Good pro from small wires. I thought it worth the VS4b given in the Westcountry Rockfax - but then I am fairly 'vertically challenged'!
oscaig - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/11 with R Tidy

Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/11

Doug miller - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11 with joe mortimer

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/11

Easily VS if only for the start!
ParkFace - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11 with Vicky Hardy

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Harvey

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Mike t

I thought VS was fair, quite an awkward move going left
lithos - AltLd - 28/Aug/11 with Pete Bradshaw

I led, then Carmen led on my gear. A good route, the best we did at the crag. A hard move left near the start, but well protected, and then easier above with lots more gear. HS 4c?
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Carmen

BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Catherine

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/11

knicos - 2nd - 18/Aug/11 with Nicole Blake, Paul Salmon

Fun climb!
col3 - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Nick, Paul

Looks hard from the bottom but eases quickly
Paul1 - Lead - 18/Aug/11 with Nick, Nicole

josh_smith_90 - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Josh D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - Aug/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/11

Eike - Lead - 03/Jul/11 with Mike Reading

misterb - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with wain

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Kevin Colclough

BenLarby - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Pete Skan

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with John_Warner

Good but felt like the crux caould be avoided by going higher. VS.
Jon_Warner - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/11

chris687 - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

Tristan Sherlock - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Really nice
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with victim of mathematics

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Mick Ward

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Harriet Keltie

Got to the top just as the tide came rushing in, ended up taking a swim
mikespooner - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Tom Taylor

Tom Downes - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with richard bingham

great crux with a bit of a slip. race against the tide though to get our bags before the waves
krishewz - Lead - 18/Mar/11

Ybot Htulk - Lead - 22/Jan/11 with Richard

Richard Morgan - 2nd - 21/Jan/11 with Toby Kluth

tobydunford - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/10

monsteratt - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Andrew Abraham

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Clement Attwood

Hidden - Lead - 12/Sep/10

ollyhorst - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10 with alex hallum

Dave Lacey - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with jak.kelly

Steve Lenartowicz - Aug/10

BALD EAGLE - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with R.Fox

great a little hard for the grade though
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Dave Elder, David Bradbrook

Harry Webdale - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 12/Apr/10

vertically_challenged - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10

surfboybert - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10 with james webbdale

Hidden - 2010

Stiff for the grade. Worth VS 4c I thought, though not sustained.
Rog Wilko - Lead - 11/Sep/09 with Debbie Wilkinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09

good route good gear,was tadge windy tho when belaying the 2nd
culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with hugh jorden

paulh1967 - 2009

Hidden - Lead - Jul/08

Mike W - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Mike W - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Ali3735 - 2nd O/S - Feb/08 with Andy M

Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Lee Bartrop

Hidden - 2007

richardr - Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/05

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jul/05

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/03 with Dom Goodridge

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/02

Andy Say - Solo - 25/Jul/00

andy_pemberton - Lead - Jul/00 with Katharine Pemberton, Dan Lear

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, DaveGoesClimbing, kim.mulji

Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard VS1 of 36
VS1 of 36
easy VS19 of 36
hard HS6 of 36
HS8 of 36
easy HS1 of 36
hard S0 of 36
S0 of 36
easy S0 of 36
hard 4c1 of 37
4c0 of 37
easy 4c6 of 37
hard 4b6 of 37
4b24 of 37
easy 4b0 of 37
hard 4a0 of 37
4a0 of 37
easy 4a0 of 37
3 Stars2 of 32
2 Stars26 of 32
1 Star4 of 32
0 Stars0 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 142 (1.4%)
Lead84 of 142 (59.2%)
Followed44 of 142 (31.0%)
Toproped2 of 142 (1.4%)
Alt Leads1 of 142 (0.7%)
Unknown9 of 142 (6.3%)

'Climbed'48 of 142 (33.8%)
clean O/S86 of 142 (60.6%)
clean β1 of 142 (0.7%)
clean rpt7 of 142 (4.9%)