65m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
65m. A great horizontal outing. Start up Z Climb and follow the horizontal line of cracks and breaks. Stances are available in Parson's Chimney, on the Pulpit, and either in Long Chimney, or (uncomfortably) on the pedestal of Great Western. Mega-classic! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Enjoyable route covering most of the North West Face. Start as for Z Climb, follow the rightwards rising crack onto Central Climb. Climb down Central Climb to a triangular niche and then hand traverse right to belay on the ledge of Parson's Chimney. From the belay move up the right wall of Parson's Chimney and traverse the high break right beneath the overhang of Big Greeny. Climb onto Frankland's Green Crack before a long stride from small but positive footholds leads onto The Pulpit. Belay. It is possible to keep going up Frankland's and to take a belay at the top of Long Chimney beneath the capping block instead of the long step onto The Pulpit. Make a long step (reminiscent of Piggot's Stride) from the top of The Pulpit to join Long Chimney. Climb this to beneath the capping block then make the crux traverse across the top of Wall of Horrors to take a cramped belay on the Pinnacle of Great Western. Reverse this to Crack of Doom and finish up this. Smoke a pipe and give yourself a pat on the back! 4 pitches: 5a,5b,5b,5a.

Arthur, Dolphin, John Cook, John Ball. 14/May/1944

Ticklists: Hard Rock, A day out with Dolphin, The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

Nigel Bond 11/Oct -
with Colin Hutton
Misha 11/Oct AltLd O/S

Great fun. Lots of jamming and some slopey breaks. Birdy on the belays and in a couple of the breaks but that doesn't really detract. Followed the classic line as per Rockfax on P1-3, then reversed the traverse on Great Western on P4 as per YMC. P1 had lots of good jamming. P2 was airy and tricky to start, then easy, then the crux of the route - a balancey step across to get onto the Pedestal. That took both of us a while to figure out and commit to. P3 featured an entertaining lean/fall across a chimney and back and footing above, then another break traverse to get to a cramped stance in the niche on GW. Taking the higher traverse line above the Pedestal would avoid the tricky step across and the chimney. Seconding P4 was exciting as Ed placed the first piece of gear some way across on the GW traverse. Not that hard as there were jugs and good jams but did some monkeying around with high feet in the break. Led P1 and P3.

with Ed
Climbster 10/Oct AltLd O/S

P 2&4 Nice :)

with Ian
bwestwood 06/Sep -
markalmack 27/Aug AltLd O/S

Mutchos birdos pooos

with will
WB 27/Aug AltLd O/S

Literally a shitty route. Good fun climbing though.

with Mark
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Nez ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
petekeron 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led p2 & p4. Blummin hard work!

with Steve Brock
Bertbee 30/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Ouch! Took a massive whipper on the crux traverse on Pitch 3 - popped nut resulted in a pendulum straight into the side of the pulpit. Battered wrist and written off helmet, but walked to tell the tale! There is a good pocket for a narrow-headed cam on the face of wall of horrors, which you could place just before having to commit to the traverse. It would make it a lot bloody safer - and it's what I'll being using next time!

with Duncan
David_Gledson 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 and 3. Picht 1 is fantastic. Pitch 2 we didn't step onto pulpit, kept going on the break, which felt hard. Pitch 3 "crux" is certainly not the crux, pretty easy, then it gets harder. Pitch 4 great as expected.

with Alan
Matt Rowat 04/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Lead first pitch then ptr refused to continue after seconding. Pumpy!

with Ross
Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Hidden 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 28/Aug/12 AltLd
with loundsy
Mattyk 25/Jul/12 AltLd

Fell on pitch 3. got myself back to the pulpit and did it fine. Absolutely brilliant. Almscliff has so much more to give. Go do it!

Hidden 29/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
robin_hackney 29/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

P2, P4. Quality outing, did it on a single 30m which worked well. Forgot my pipe though, so can't claim the full tick.

with Si
JonG ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Mowglee 30/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Part of the Full Almscliff traverse. Epic.

with Tom Nichols, Ewan
Ewan Russell 30/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

did full girdle see there for description

with Gareth, Tom Nichols
Martin Haworth 29/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Richard Timms
timmsy 29/Oct/11 AltLd

Lead 2nd and 4th pitch with Martin Howarth. No drama's Martin set off in drizzle but neither of us mentioned it and by the time i reached 1st belay rain had stopped. Lot easier than expected. HVS all day.

with martin howarth YC's
simon kimber 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ben Hirst
simon kimber 03/Jul/11 Solo
with Ben Hirst
Hidden 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
ollyroberts 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Ben
MeMeMe 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
ed edwards ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not sure i should tick this one. From the pulpit headed into and up the v-diff chimney prior to the final traverse. Headed back down to half height due to the weight of bird poo in the top traverse line. Traversed at next break down across then up wall of horrors backono to route. Less bird poo.

adi bryant 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Finished up great western as lee was a bit knackered

with Lee
Hidden 02/Jul/10 AltLd
roberto18 20/Jun/10 AltLd
with Sean Jacobs, Tom Nickols
Will Hunt 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Excellent climb. Felt more like 4 HVSs back to back with a couple of tough spots. The hanging belay at Great Western is uncomfortable! This climb epitomises Almscliff. Do it.

with Jonny Aylwin
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 AltLd rpt
Jack00 09/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Kirks01 09/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob
RossG ??/2010 -
leegodson1989 ??/2010 2nd β

V. Hard and tiring.

with Adi
wahniel 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

done on a sunday early morning, without causing too much disruption to other parties. Felt like a long VS dotted with brief "E1 moments". Brilliant fun. Belay on the pulpit is preferable to a the one in long chimney I'd say. Much more comfortable and not set to ruin the next pitch with a bit of care re ropework

with Stewart McConnell
cobweb 11/Jul/09 AltLd
with Roger Waterworth
Toby Dunn 21/May/09 Solo
Sean_J ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Bert and Tichols
Luke Brooks 31/Dec/07 AltLd

Awesome route. E1

ChalkBall 31/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

E1. Great route. Got a few looks belaying 10 feet below the top though :). Lead pitches 2 and 4. We belayed on the plinth at the end of pitch 2, which ended up being much more pleasant than the pidgeon-cack-ridden crack the guidebook suggests!

Hidden 27/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 27/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 01/Oct/06 Lead O/S
alicia 31/May/06 2nd

brilliant route!!

with Ali K
Hidden 31/May/06 Lead O/S
Brown 25/May/05 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
pezzerrr 09/Nov/02 AltLd O/S
Grezza ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S

remarkably exposed good climbing

with Andy Kemp
nai 10/Aug/97 AltLd
with Tim
tlr 10/Aug/97 AltLd
with Pom
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Hidden 05/Jul/97 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Apr/93 AltLd O/S
Ben C ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1992 -
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Bruce woodley
Pete Pozman 09/May/90 AltLd
with John Byrne
PaulHermes ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Aug/89 AltLd
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 18/Aug/89 AltLd
with David
Hidden 15/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
craig h 15/Jul/89 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 23/Jun/88 Lead
with Tony Barley
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
charlesmfrench 27/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Jerremy Wriggley
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1982 2nd

early eighties

with Glyn Appleyard
TonyF ?/Jun/80 Lead
with Dave McDowel
uphillnow ?/Aug/79 AltLd

Always best protection for the leader on all pitches.

with Al Bennett
Hidden 27/Jul/79 Lead
mikej 18/Oct/78 AltLd dnf
with Mike Byles
GeoffG ?/May/78 AltLd
Falko 01/Jun/75 Lead O/S
with Peter Brashaw
Hidden ??/1975 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 29/Jul/69 AltLd
with Rob Wood
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 8
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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