North West Girdle*** E1 5b
[North West Girdle, Almscliff. 1978., 4 kb]65m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
65m. A great horizontal outing. Start up Z Climb and follow the horizontal line of cracks and breaks. Stances are available in Parson's Chimney, on the Pulpit, and either in Long Chimney, or (uncomfortably) on the pedestal of Great Western. Mega-classic! © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Enjoyable route covering most of the North West Face. Start as for Z Climb, follow the rightwards rising crack onto Central Climb. Climb down Central Climb to a triangular niche and then hand traverse right to belay on the ledge of Parson's Chimney. From the belay move up the right wall of Parson's Chimney and traverse the high break right beneath the overhang of Big Greeny. Climb onto Frankland's Green Crack before a long stride from small but positive footholds leads onto The Pulpit. Belay. It is possible to keep going up Frankland's and to take a belay at the top of Long Chimney beneath the capping block instead of the long step onto The Pulpit. Make a long step (reminiscent of Piggot's Stride) from the top of The Pulpit to join Long Chimney. Climb this to beneath the capping block then make the crux traverse across the top of Wall of Horrors to take a cramped belay on the Pinnacle of Great Western. Reverse this to Crack of Doom and finish up this. Smoke a pipe and give yourself a pat on the back! 4 pitches: 5a,5b,5b,5a.

Arthur, Dolphin, John Cook, John Ball. 14/May/1944

Ticklists: Hard Rock, A day out with Dolphin, The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

Photo: North West Girdle, Almscliff. 1978. © Tony Marr
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 89 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

bwestwood - 06/Sep/15

Mutchos birdos pooos
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/15 with will

Literally a shitty route. Good fun climbing though.
WB - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/15 with Mark

phil64 - Lead - 2015

Nez - 2014

mike mo - 2014

James Thacker - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Led p2 & p4. Blummin hard work!
petekeron - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Steve Brock

Ouch! Took a massive whipper on the crux traverse on Pitch 3 - popped nut resulted in a pendulum straight into the side of the pulpit. Battered wrist and written off helmet, but walked to tell the tale! There is a good pocket for a narrow-headed cam on the face of wall of horrors, which you could place just before having to commit to the traverse. It would make it a lot bloody safer - and it's what I'll being using next time!
Bertbee - AltLd dnf - 30/Jun/13 with Duncan

Lead p1 and 3. Picht 1 is fantastic. Pitch 2 we didn't step onto pulpit, kept going on the break, which felt hard. Pitch 3 "crux" is certainly not the crux, pretty easy, then it gets harder. Pitch 4 great as expected.
David_Gledson - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Alan

Lead first pitch then ptr refused to continue after seconding. Pumpy!
Matt Rowat - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/13 with Ross

Hidden - Apr/13

andybirtwistle - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/12

belay bunny turned bad - AltLd - 28/Aug/12 with loundsy

Fell on pitch 3. got myself back to the pulpit and did it fine. Absolutely brilliant. Almscliff has so much more to give. Go do it!
Mattyk - AltLd - 25/Jul/12 with Jamie Moss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12

P2, P4. Quality outing, did it on a single 30m which worked well. Forgot my pipe though, so can't claim the full tick.
robin_hackney - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Si

JonG - 2012

JonG - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Part of the Full Almscliff traverse. Epic.
Mowglee - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Tom Nichols, Ewan

did full girdle see there for description
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Gareth, Tom Nichols

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Richard Timms

Lead 2nd and 4th pitch with Martin Howarth. No drama's Martin set off in drizzle but neither of us mentioned it and by the time i reached 1st belay rain had stopped. Lot easier than expected. HVS all day.
timmsy - AltLd - 29/Oct/11 with martin howarth YC's

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Ben Hirst

simon kimber - Solo - 03/Jul/11 with Ben Hirst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/11

ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Ben

MeMeMe - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Pete

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

rurp - Lead O/S - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Not sure i should tick this one. From the pulpit headed into and up the v-diff chimney prior to the final traverse. Headed back down to half height due to the weight of bird poo in the top traverse line. Traversed at next break down across then up wall of horrors backono to route. Less bird poo.
ed edwards - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with richard coupland

Finished up great western as lee was a bit knackered
adi bryant - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Lee

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jul/10

roberto18 - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with Sean Jacobs, Tom Nickols

Led pitches 1 and 3. Excellent climb. Felt more like 4 HVSs back to back with a couple of tough spots. The hanging belay at Great Western is uncomfortable! This climb epitomises Almscliff. Do it.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Jonny Aylwin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/May/10

Jack00 - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Rob

Kirks01 - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Rob

RossG - 2010

V. Hard and tiring.
leegodson1989 - 2nd β - 2010 with Adi

done on a sunday early morning, without causing too much disruption to other parties. Felt like a long VS dotted with brief "E1 moments". Brilliant fun. Belay on the pulpit is preferable to a the one in long chimney I'd say. Much more comfortable and not set to ruin the next pitch with a bit of care re ropework
wahniel - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Stewart McConnell

cobweb - AltLd - 11/Jul/09 with Roger Waterworth

Toby Dunn - Solo - 21/May/09

Sean_J - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Bert and Tichols

Awesome route. E1
Luke Brooks - AltLd - 31/Dec/07 with Ryan Brooks

E1. Great route. Got a few looks belaying 10 feet below the top though :). Lead pitches 2 and 4. We belayed on the plinth at the end of pitch 2, which ended up being much more pleasant than the pidgeon-cack-ridden crack the guidebook suggests!
ChalkBall - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/07 with Luke Brooks

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 27/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/06

brilliant route!!
alicia - 2nd - 31/May/06 with Ali K

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/06

Brown - AltLd - 25/May/05

Hidden - Lead - 2004

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/02

remarkably exposed good climbing
Grezza - AltLd O/S - Jun/02 with Andy Kemp

nai - AltLd - 10/Aug/97 with Tim

tlr - AltLd - 10/Aug/97 with Pom

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jul/97

rob.grafton - 1995

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/93

Ben C - 1993

Southern Mark Smith - 1992

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Jul/90 with Bruce woodley

Pete Pozman - AltLd - 09/May/90 with John Byrne

PaulHermes - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1990

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 18/Aug/89 with Dad

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 18/Aug/89 with David

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/89

craig h - AltLd - 15/Jul/89 with Duncan Martin

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 23/Jun/88 with Tony Barley

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/82 with Jerremy Wriggley

early eighties
MikeYouCanClimb - 2nd - 1982 with Glyn Appleyard

TonyF - Lead - Jun/80 with Dave McDowel

Always best protection for the leader on all pitches.
uphillnow - AltLd - Aug/79 with Al Bennett

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/79

mikej - AltLd dnf - 18/Oct/78 with Mike Byles

GeoffG - AltLd - May/78

Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/75 with Peter Brashaw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1975

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 29/Jul/69 with Rob Wood

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, sgl0jd, Hoyes, mzchambers, danny269, Ian Jones, Jordan Senior, sinbad, PanzerHanzler, Tim Bellwood

Total votes cast 21
hard E20 of 7
E20 of 7
easy E20 of 7
hard E13 of 7
E12 of 7
easy E11 of 7
hard HVS1 of 7
HVS0 of 7
easy HVS0 of 7
hard 5c0 of 7
5c0 of 7
easy 5c0 of 7
hard 5b2 of 7
5b5 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
hard 5a0 of 7
5a0 of 7
easy 5a0 of 7
3 Stars7 of 7
2 Stars0 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat