Oriole** E3 5c
[Abbing off Oriole under angry skies, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A fine route up the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a right-facing groove with a capping roof.
1) 5c, 30m. Start with difficulty up the corner and continue until just before the roof. Pull around to the left then climb up on good holds before traversing back right to a good belay.
2) 5a, 10m. Climb up and right to finish on the arete. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Start up Phoenix but pass the overhang to the L and continue deviously up the steep wall above, eventually bearing R to finish on the arete.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK.

Photo: Abbing off Oriole under angry skies © PeakDJ
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This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/14

Bubbles backed off the start of Phoenix, so I did this. Brilliant climbing up the groove, to hard move onto the wall (I heel-hooked above my left hand!?) Above this interest is sustained mainly due to the lactic in your forearms, take it steady and you shouldn't fall off. Gear is ok on this upper section but some pieces not above suspicion. Overall hard E3 I thought - not sure whether easy 6a or just hard 5c. Really good climbing throughout.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Bubbles

JulesV - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Shauna

Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Adam Booth

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Ed Booth

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with alice thompson

Alice Thompson - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Dan Gibson

Nice climb.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Darren McMaster

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Sophie

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/11

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Felix Coxwell

heather rogers - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour, Felix

feilx - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/11 with Heather, Dan Barbour

One superb long pitch. Very good.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/11 with KM

Absolutely stellar route. Bloody loved it. Can do in 1 pitch no problem.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Steve Ramsden

on al's gear. Good route, found entering the groove low down the hardest bit. Felt about 3 grades easier than astromoth
Ram MkiV - Lead β - 31/May/11 with Al

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Sophie Whyte

soph - 2nd - Aug/10 with Toby Dunn

barni - AltLd - 29/May/09 with Oli

alaan - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Mat and Grant

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Alaan and Grante

GrantB - 2nd - 27/Sep/08 with Matt and Al

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 20/Sep/08 with Nige

nige - Lead - 20/Sep/08 with richard kirby

Brown - 2nd β - 14/Sep/08 with Henry

Good climb, but probably more like E3 5c. The hardest move is actually at the start, shared with the E2 Phoenix!
Tim M - Lead - 01/Jun/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 01/Jun/08 with cheesesarnie

Wimped out of the Phoenix traverse!F6c
ian caton - Lead O/S - May/08 with Abi

tough start and hard move over roof (pulled on peg)
Tom Phillips - 2nd dog - 19/Oct/07 with fiend

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/97 with jon

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/96 with brian jones

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jul/95

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/May/88

It was given E4 in them days but we thought E3 was about right.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - Jul/83 with Julian Taylor

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
nigel pearson

Total votes cast 31
hard E40 of 10
E40 of 10
easy E40 of 10
hard E35 of 10
E35 of 10
easy E30 of 10
hard E20 of 10
E20 of 10
easy E20 of 10
hard 6a1 of 11
6a1 of 11
easy 6a2 of 11
hard 5c7 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
3 Stars4 of 10
2 Stars6 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent
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