North Yorkshire > Earl Crag >
 
Earl Buttress*** E2 5b

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[Andy Wild leading Earl Buttress, 2 kb]Fine climbing up the face to the right of the crack. Approach from the right and climb the face then layback powerfully up the thin crack to reach juggy romping on the upper wall. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

Photo: Andy Wild leading Earl Buttress © Allan Manson
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

The Grist - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Jim Rogers

Nez - 2014

petekeron - 2nd β - 01/Aug/13 with Steve Brock

pastep - Lead - 10/Jul/13 with Anneka

AnnekaW - 2nd - 10/Jul/13 with Paul S

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

MeMeMe - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Paul

Hidden - Jun/13

Led on Ewan's gear... still quite pumpy though!
Dafydd Llywelyn - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Lawrence Furse, Ewan Russel

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with laurence furst, Halla, Daffydd(LUUMC)

superb route :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Becky E

Tom Keaveny - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Luke Harper

Robin Fuller - Lead - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/11

Brilliant
Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with HuwGoodal

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Kieran Myles

Really dissapointed in myself,went for the onsight. But made the mistake of hanging around placing gear to long and got pumped. took a wipper from about 2 meters above the top break that you can get a cam in. All in all and amazing climb with a great feel about it. Bomber gear give it a go.
Mitch1990 - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/11

andy gittins - 2nd - Jul/11 with T Raffle

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/11

Ground up after failing about 5 or 6 years previously. Almost floated through the crux second half wondering how the hell it was ever possible for me to make such a meal of it before.
Cragrat Rich - Lead - 22/Apr/11

Jack00 - Lead β - 22/Mar/11 with Olly

Belayed jack first.
ollyroberts - Lead β - 22/Mar/11 with Jack Colbeck

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 2011 with bwestwood

Silly flash pump, fiddling with wrong gear. A fight but worth it. Sustained 5b.
farmus21 - Lead dog - 02/Aug/10 with Will Eccles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Best route on gritstone? Probably!
Sean_J - Apr/10 with Robin

bwestwood - 2nd dog - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2009

vertical worm - 2nd - 2009

vertical worm - 2nd - 2009

PaulHermes - 11/May/08 with VCC

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/May/08

Dave Lacey - Lead dog - 06/May/08 with jak.kelly

design crisis - Lead - Apr/08 with Tom W

design crisis - Lead - 31/Mar/08 with Tom W

Hidden - Sent - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06

ash495 - 2nd - 15/Jun/06 with Joel Pixley

Nick Beckett - Lead - 2006 with various

Hidden - Lead dnf - Jul/05

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2005 with wayne

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/04

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/02

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 12/May/02 with Rob Muirhead

akhughes - Lead O/S - Jul/01

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/98

nai - Lead - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/96

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/96

Charlie Staincliffe - Lead dog - Jul/96

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 11/Apr/95 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/95 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/92

rob.grafton - Lead - 13/May/92 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/91 with JT

Martin Haworth - Lead RP - 1985 with Adrian S.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1984

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 25/Sep/83 with Andy Wild

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, toddm, Graham Booth, betamonkey, Ropeboy, sugy, Hidden, Hidden, Peter Smith

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard E30 of 11
E30 of 11
easy E30 of 11
hard E21 of 11
E26 of 11
easy E23 of 11
hard E10 of 11
E11 of 11
easy E10 of 11
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
hard 5b4 of 11
5b7 of 11
easy 5b0 of 11
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
3 Stars11 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead42 of 61 (68.9%)
Followed12 of 61 (19.7%)
Bouldered1 of 61 (1.6%)
Unknown6 of 61 (9.8%)

'Climbed'27 of 61 (44.3%)
clean O/S22 of 61 (36.1%)
clean β3 of 61 (4.9%)
clean rpt1 of 61 (1.6%)
clean RP1 of 61 (1.6%)
dogged6 of 61 (9.8%)
dnf1 of 61 (1.6%)