Red Square*** E2 5b
[Deep in the crux, 3 kb]The excellent corner taken on good jams. Stopping to negotiate gear is often people's downfall on this uber-classic.
Ed Drummond Jul/1967

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Nesscliffe: Marlene Corners, Nesscliffe: Crackpots.

Photo: Deep in the crux © Andy Myers
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 197 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

Berwyn85 - TR O/S - 10/Sep/15 with Marta

Been on my ticklist for a while. Pleased to do it. Did ab down to clean a bit but didn't do any moves or look too much so O/S for me. Great Route.
Tom.Priestley - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Scott Quinn

Awesome, thought it would be a pump fest but there are a few good jams to be had! still pretty hard though
scott quinn - 2nd - 30/Aug/15 with Tom Priestley

Dan724 - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/15 with Dan Ely

dan ely - Lead - 24/Jun/15 with dan

As good as I hoped it would be! Sensational route. Great fun with Robbie and Giles.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/15 with Robbie Leishman, Giles

TCarrick - TR - 07/Jun/15

ADConway - TR O/S - 02/Jun/15 with Dante

gazhbo - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/15

Really good route, just got to commit!
Callum van Werkhoven - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/15 with James Metzger

Tricklebank - TR O/S - 18/Mar/15 with Andy Myers

Chris_barr - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/15 with Gus

Gus - 2nd - 06/Mar/15 with chris barr

Hidden - 2015

Pete Sanger - TR O/S - 22/Sep/14

Metz - TR RP - 17/Sep/14 with Matt Pownall, Andy Myers

Hidden - Lead G/U - 23/Aug/14

jamestaylor92 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with james slater

Followed it last time we were here. Still a great experience to lead.
Adam_42 - Lead β - 17/Aug/14 with Wil Treasure

drysori - 2nd - 17/Aug/14

Tom Clough - TR β - 23/Jul/14

g-up 1 slip
Hannes B - Lead RP - 19/Jul/14 with Pete S, Neil C

Pete Sanger - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/14

drysori - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Bit dusty but great none-the-less. Will be back for the lead.
Adam_42 - 2nd β - 21/Jun/14 with Wil Treasure

mattfarr - Lead RP - 20/Jun/14 with Simon, Dave C

Chriswallis2 - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/14 with Anna

Davecapewell - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Simon m, Matt

Nice warm up. A lot easier than all the other routes
morganator - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Rob Grant

Dirty and damp, but the class shows through!
edmitchell - TR O/S - 05/Apr/14 with adam booth

Tom Clough - TR β - 13/Mar/14 with ravedave1806

ravedave1806 - TR - 13/Mar/14 with Sypher

hollysingleton - TR dog - 2014

fieldworktutor - TR - 05/Dec/13

Sustained, spent to long placing back up gear. fell 8 metres from hands at the top. Gutted.
Panick - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/13 with Tom Fleming

Ad Shaw - TR - Sep/13 with Bridget Large

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Aug/13

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with rosie hawker, ross garfoot

rosiehawker - TR - 12/Jul/13 with Ross Garfoot, Jon Gill

Set up own top rope. Holds everywhere you need them, think I might be able to lead it. Maybe another day.
Panick - TR O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Melissa Bunbury

Got it on the second try of the day, first time got over pumped putting unnecessary gear in.
TCarrick - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/13 with Phill Thomas

DanielAlanBall - TR O/S - 17/Jun/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 06/Jun/13

baronbadback - TR - 06/Jun/13

An excellent climb, it's really not over til it's over! I was considering leaving my torque nuts on the ground in favour of just cams, but very glad I didn't. It eats hexes all the way up and the cams I did place seemed quite 'skatey' on the sandy rock.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

TCarrick - TR - 30/Apr/13

Colin did it first, then I did it on his gear. Soft for grade and great gear: very good.
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - TR dog - 13/Apr/13

solo roped on a wet day but the route was 95% dry being quite sheltered.
solostoke - TR dog - 11/Apr/13

Need to come back and lead this!
TCarrick - TR - 18/Mar/13

dkilner - TR - Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Nov/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 02/Sep/12

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Mike(Dad)

Hidden - TR dnf - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 28/Aug/12

Brilliant. A sandstone Pis Fliuch.
dominic lee - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with nathan lee

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

shoulders - 04/Aug/12 with mikeshewring, mart, andy sharp, dai

Roped solo, first time outdoors with the silent partner. Very exciting I have picks on my f/b showing my rigging and setup but awesome first roped solo :-)
sideswiper - Solo rpt - Aug/12

frustrating and minging, hated it mainly because i could barely do it!
TheLegoMan - TR dog - 05/Jul/12 with Alex Kay

With Paul from UKC. Slipped while trying to move up to the pocket low down. Gear (By waist) held. Got back on it and got on with it, a hard bit at the top. Definitely felt like it could be E2 when slightly damp. Simply super. The gear is amazing which was something I was very very thankful for!
James Oswald - Lead RP - 02/Jul/12

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Mattlamb90 - TR O/S - 29/May/12 with Luke

luke384 - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with matty

It took a while, but it was my first E1.
Pinky - Lead O/S - 14/May/12 with alec thomas, chris thomas

Hidden - Lead β - 14/May/12

The Dangler - Lead β - 14/May/12

Hidden - TR - 03/Apr/12

Very very good! Bottom end E2 I think, too hard for E1.
MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Matt Breakell

mick1jones - TR O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Simon Holding

matty123 - 2nd - 01/Apr/12 with Mark Roe

Hidden - TR - 27/Mar/12

deklan - Lead dog - 19/Mar/12 with chris trantner

Michael Allday - TR O/S - 11/Mar/12 with rodney greenfield

Ed Booth - TR rpt - 06/Mar/12 with Will N, Fennerz

sideswiper - TR O/S - Mar/12

mhawk - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/12 with Kai Ren Ong

Hidden - TR dog - 19/Feb/12

thetradlad - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11 with Keeno

Ross.Cooper - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/11 with Jake Lodge

David Bird - TR dnf - 01/Oct/11 with AliB

trants1 - TR O/S - 27/Sep/11 with deklan, J Gough

deklan - TR - 27/Sep/11 with james, chris

Hidden - TR O/S - 02/Sep/11

matty123 - Lead RP - 03/Aug/11 with Richard Breakell, Rachael Breakell

mhawk - TR rpt - 27/Jul/11 with Lee Picken

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Rosie Henstock

Rosie Henstock - 2nd - 25/May/11 with Laurence

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Tim Evans

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/May/11

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Pete

petellis - 2nd dog - 14/May/11 with Rock and Dole

Hidden - TR β - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - TR - 26/Apr/11

Tom Greenwood - Lead RP - 07/Apr/11 with Kev Courtney

tricky towards the top, gear in and go for it. nice warm up route!
spidey - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with adam

adam06 - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with Ryan

djromberg - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/10

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Pete Lewis

alisterrobbird - TR O/S - 05/Sep/10

halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Sep/10

zero six - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Great lay back climbing. Nearly reached the top to top out on anchor that was set up.
Gtok - TR β - 31/Aug/10 with Phil

Good route, sandy crag.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, Rich Cannell, Drew, Mikey G

Fantastic line and really nice corner crack climbing. Sandy, but to be expected. On Alex's gear
Mike Goldthorp - Lead β - 30/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, alex mason, Drew Mulcahy, Rich Cannell

Imperfect conditions on damp morning but enjoyable all the same. Well protected 5b = standard E1 or am I missing something?
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Preston Matt

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Matt B

Mattb1421 - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Nick Whimster

Tomprusk - TR β - 08/Aug/10 with Nick

Nick Nitro - TR O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Tom Parker

TobyA - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Elina

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Nick Bullock

Hidden - TR - 29/Jun/10

Not as much of a battle as was expecting, plenty of gear and some reasonable rests
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Morgan Strong Will

Jon Read - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Mark Sharratt

David Bird - TR dog - 01/Jun/10 with Frazer Merryweather, Calum Mackie, AliB

jonathan mcgrath - 23/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Apr/10

guido - Lead - 2010

With Dave Turnbull
AB1965 - 2nd - 10/Nov/09

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/09 with Alastair Borrett

barni - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/09 with Tim

A Downing - TR rpt - 20/Sep/09 with Damian Lawson

A Downing - TR rpt - 20/Sep/09 with Damian Lawson

Hidden - TR rpt - 09/Sep/09

porridgefan - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Joe Ward

Ben Harper - TR O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Cat

gooseygander - TR O/S - 23/Jun/09 with si marlow

Bloody good climb!
samwisethebrave2 - Lead RP - 12/May/09 with Jasper

Jasper peny - 2nd rpt - 12/May/09 with sam roberts

lukea - Lead β - 10/May/09 with Al

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/09

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 02/May/09 with Ed Brown

Hidden - TR RP - May/09

robbie9m - TR O/S - 20/Apr/09 with Jasper(Dad)

My first trad lead! Felt really confident on it considering it was my first lead never mind E grade. Loads of gear and some really bommer placements
abrom - Lead RP - 14/Apr/09 with angus kille, tom fenwick

abrom - TR O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Angus Kille

phil64 - Lead O/S - Apr/09

stood at the bottom waiting for the rain to stop before starting. Great gear, hexes would be good on it.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/09 with Sinbad

sinbad - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/09 with eddy on the rocks

Hidden - TR - 07/Feb/09

Rich35 - Lead - 2009

Hidden - TR rpt - 01/Nov/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/08

dts - 2nd rpt - 16/Aug/08 with Andy Taylor

dts - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/08 with Andy Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - Aug/08

Got to crux but had to rest on gear.
HIGHTOWER - Lead dog - 09/Jun/08 with Ben Thynne

Hidden - TR rpt - 03/Jun/08

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 29/May/08 with Tom

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - 16/May/08

Top roped this about a year ago, but still had to be shouted at to stop crying about it and just go upwards. I think I have some sandstone leading issues...
smallerrich - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/08 with Tom Fenwick

Brilliant, filthy.
andi turner - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Noddy

So cold i couldn't feel my hands the whole way!
fennerz - Lead rpt - 13/Feb/08 with Angus Kille

my first e2, before i'd done an e1, but still :) it was my fisrt e-grade trad lead, but i was surprisingly relaxed about it
anguskille - Lead RP - 13/Feb/08 with Tom Fenwick

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Castleclimber - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Luke Alvarez

lukea - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Rich

Both led. More like E1.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Ash

Hidden - Lead β - 26/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

Hidden - TR O/S - May/07

Hidden - TR - 19/Apr/07

Mike Parker - TR O/S - 17/Apr/07 with James Ayre

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07 with Matthew

andy tetsill - Apr/07

Hidden - TR O/S - 2007

Hidden - TR - 18/Dec/06

valecoastclimber - Lead O/S - Nov/06

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Patrick Green

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/06

Ed Booth - Lead rpt - May/06 with Roel Driesen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

matt30987 - Lead RP - 2006 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/05

shunt belay
andy tetsill - TR dog - Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/May/03

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/Aug/02

platt2000 - TR - 2002

Toproped as very damp
Nigel Coe - TR - 2002 with Brian Wyvill

Neil Becousse - Lead RP - Aug/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000 with larry

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Aug/98

mhawk - TR O/S - 21/Jun/98

smudge - TR O/S - 11/Apr/97

goi.ashmore - TR O/S - 13/Apr/96 with Dee Herbert

Hidden - Apr/96

Peakology - Lead O/S - 1996 with mod

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/95 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/95

rogerskews - Lead - 1983

Seconded Ed on the first ascent.
zukator - 2nd O/S - 1967 with Ed Drummond

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Motown, hthom, TraverseKing, Will Murphy, grady_9, JamesWilliams, Blake, ravedave1806, solostoke, marclloyd77, mloskot, Brendan, Rich Kay, SteveM, maxamusdecamus, Tyson Broad, rustaldo, iceaxejuggler, Ewan Russell, groovy_nut, Robbie Massey, Knoxy, AndyM-LVB, mosel

Total votes cast 138
hard E30 of 46
E30 of 46
easy E30 of 46
hard E23 of 46
E224 of 46
easy E24 of 46
hard E114 of 46
E11 of 46
easy E10 of 46
hard 5c0 of 46
5c0 of 46
easy 5c3 of 46
hard 5b10 of 46
5b31 of 46
easy 5b0 of 46
hard 5a2 of 46
5a0 of 46
easy 5a0 of 46
3 Stars36 of 46
2 Stars8 of 46
1 Star1 of 46
0 Stars0 of 46
Bag of .....1 of 46
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP