Shropshire > Llanymynech Quarry >
 
Black Bastard*** E2 5c

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[Black Bastard, E2 5c, 3 kb]30m. The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin crack system. Excellent technical climbing up this gains a break. Follow the wall above, past a peg, to the broken band of rock. Head directly up this to below a white-stained crack and then step right to below another crack. Step up to reach the crack and the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Doug Kerr, P.Stacey 1.6.87 01/Jun/1987

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

Photo: Black Bastard, E2 5c © caradoc
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 65 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Much much better than black wall, and not a lot harder, brilliant climbing
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with James Taylor

Andrew171 - TR O/S - 24/Aug/14 with gemma smallman

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Sep/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 27/Aug/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 27/Aug/13

Had been wanting to get on the Black Wall for a while. A good route, though dirty in places to remind you where you are! Tricky but well protected 5c crux, much of the rest is 5b but always in balance so not pumpy. Deserves 2 starts but not 3.
Misha - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Ed, Mark

eduardo - 2nd - 10/Aug/13 with Misha

great route but nearly went off route at top where its loose and flakey.crux felt very hard for the grade!
jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with ross garfoot

Tala M - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Mike Brookes

wolverine - 2nd - 29/Sep/12 with Matt Sparkes

Some worthwhile moves in the middle. Obvious direct top out is loose and dusty. Best sticking to original line in the guide book for the finish. Rather generously given 3 star in the RF guide.
Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Mike Hayes

Some good climbing but one star at most
Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with SP

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/12 with Debbie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Would have enjoyed a lot more had I not been massively hungover
thetradlad - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Jack Brougham

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11

Maria Bechaalani - TR - Aug/11 with dylan burgess

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2011 with Andy S

liam 22 - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/10

sadams - Lead - 24/Jul/10 with Eric Hildrew

Awesome
Sam W - Lead - 03/Jul/10 with Tom Bide

Seymore Butt - 2010

barni - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/09 with luke, Liam fleming

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Mark O'Neill

tmawer - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/09 with chris king

Hidden - Lead - Sep/09

The best line in the quarry, balance is key!!
jimbonfire - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/09

spidey - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09

metal arms - Lead dog - Aug/09

First E2 lead!
Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Ian

ian caton - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Abi

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

feilx - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Heather

Hidden - 2009

fennerz - Lead RP - 23/Dec/08 with anguskille

abrom - 2nd O/S - 23/Dec/08 with Tom Fenwick

Harder than black wall direct, probably better.
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/08 with Anguskille

Hidden - Lead - Nov/08

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/08

willson - 2nd - 24/Oct/08 with John Norman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/08

SaraKaikk - 2nd - 16/Sep/08 with James Rushforth

pretty hard crux actually, harder than black wall direct
anguskille - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Tom Fenwick

Coel Hellier - Lead - 24/Aug/08

excelent, only 5c section threw the crack past the thread on black wall rest sustained 5b.
Dale - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with dave

It started raining half way up and things got a little bit spicy . . . the top out was a little interseting!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/07

Chubbard - 2nd - 18/Jul/07 with C Godfrey

Hidden - Lead - Mar/07

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/06

a_radiohead_fan - Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

John Marsland - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Allen Newby

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Hugh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/06

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/05 with Rod

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 21/Nov/98 with Martin Crocker

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/98

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/94 with jon

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/92 with Rich Whitwell

Hidden - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/89

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, deklan, Hidden, mhawk, Owen W-G, samwisethebrave2, scouser666

Voting
Total votes cast 73
hard E30 of 24
E30 of 24
easy E30 of 24
hard E20 of 24
E222 of 24
easy E21 of 24
hard E11 of 24
E10 of 24
easy E10 of 24
hard 6a0 of 25
6a0 of 25
easy 6a0 of 25
hard 5c2 of 25
5c19 of 25
easy 5c3 of 25
hard 5b1 of 25
5b0 of 25
easy 5b0 of 25
3 Stars14 of 24
2 Stars6 of 24
1 Star4 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead42 of 65 (64.6%)
Followed15 of 65 (23.1%)
Toproped4 of 65 (6.2%)
Unknown4 of 65 (6.2%)

'Climbed'22 of 65 (33.8%)
clean O/S40 of 65 (61.5%)
clean RP2 of 65 (3.1%)
dogged1 of 65 (1.5%)