Rockfax Description
The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin crack system. Excellent technical climbing up this gains a break. Follow the wall above, past a peg, to the broken band of rock. Head directly up this to below a white-stained crack and then step right to below another crack. Step up to reach the crack and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Kerr, P.Stacey 1.6.87 01/Jun/1987

Ticklists: Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List.

ned_85 06/Sep Lead
Gabe Oliver 16/Aug Lead O/S

Not sure I would class the rock as "good" throughout the route. Nice moves through the crack and bulge at half height but the rest was spoilt by the loose rock on every horizontal break. Steady at the grade despite the height

MarkRoe 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Smithy
benw681 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Andrew171 24/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/13 TR O/S
Misha 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Had been wanting to get on the Black Wall for a while. A good route, though dirty in places to remind you where you are! Tricky but well protected 5c crux, much of the rest is 5b but always in balance so not pumpy. Deserves 2 starts but not 3.

with Ed, Mark
eduardo 10/Aug/13 2nd
with Misha
jon_gill1 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

great route but nearly went off route at top where its loose and flakey.crux felt very hard for the grade!

with ross garfoot
Tala M 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd
Mr Sparkle 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Some worthwhile moves in the middle. Obvious direct top out is loose and dusty. Best sticking to original line in the guide book for the finish. Rather generously given 3 star in the RF guide.

Bulls Crack 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Some good climbing but one star at most

with SP
Marti999 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
thetradlad 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Would have enjoyed a lot more had I not been massively hungover

Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Oli 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Felt harder and more scary than Black Wall Direct.

Maria Bechaalani ?/Aug/11 TR
with dylan burgess
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Andy S
liam 22 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
sadams 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Sam W 03/Jul/10 Lead


Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
barni 12/Nov/09 2nd O/S
cem 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mark O'Neill
tmawer 29/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with chris king
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
jimbonfire 30/Aug/09 2nd O/S

The best line in the quarry, balance is key!!

spidey 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
metal arms ?/Aug/09 Lead dog
Abi Chard 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S

First E2 lead!

with Ian
ian caton 18/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Abi
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
feilx 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden ??/2009 -
fennerz 23/Dec/08 Lead RP
abrom 23/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Tom Fenwick
smallerrich 22/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Harder than black wall direct, probably better.

Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Hidden 24/Oct/08 Lead
willson 24/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
SaraKaikk 16/Sep/08 2nd
anguskille 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S

pretty hard crux actually, harder than black wall direct

Coel Hellier 24/Aug/08 Lead
Dale ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S

excelent, only 5c section threw the crack past the thread on black wall rest sustained 5b.

with dave
Ed Booth 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S

It started raining half way up and things got a little bit spicy . . . the top out was a little interseting!

Hidden 18/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Chubbard 18/Jul/07 2nd
with C Godfrey
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
John Marsland 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Allen Newby
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 27/Jan/06 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb 10/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Rod
lost.arrow 15/Jul/03 -
lost.arrow 17/Jun/03 -
Nigel Coe 21/Nov/98 2nd
with Martin Crocker
Hidden ?/Sep/98 Lead O/S
plain kitten ??/1998 Lead
Roget 12/Feb/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Nick Biven 17/Jan/92 Lead O/S
with Rich Whitwell
Hidden ??/1992 -
Hidden 15/Apr/89 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom.Priestley, marclloyd77, Hidden, deklan, Hidden, mhawk, Owen W-G, samwisethebrave2, scouser666
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 25
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set