Lofoten > Gandalf >
 
Guns n' Roses*** n6-

Adjacent Climbs
<< Gandalf Direct Finish
 
Krympefesten >>
100m, 3 pitches. A nice varied route, steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. 1) 5, 40m. Start up a crack with a tree in it and climb straight up over a small overhang, then up the arete on the right using a finger-crack in the arete. Belay on a ledge just below the Gandalf overhang. Note: many teams struggle up the grassy groove round to the right - this IS NOT the route - so get back on the proper line now! 2) 6-, 25m. Climb the right-hand-crack directly through the Gandalf overhang, then continue up the vertical jamming crack in the steep headwall above to a tiny stance. 3) 6-, 35m. Continue directly up a series of vertical finger-cracks in orange rock keeping just to the right of the Eagle’s Nest belay on Gandalf. Finish up a groove and hand-crack just to the right of Gandalf's final section. © ROCKFAX
FA. (P1) T Enevold, T Seines 1993, (The main crack of P2) S & H
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 65 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 22/Jul/13

Led pitch 2 - challenging steep jamming.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Chris Allan

1, 3.
chrisallan - 16/Jul/13 with cameron_hall

Led P1,3
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Chris Bull

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Clare Muir

klipkabouter - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with John Vous

I lead P1 and P3. P1 is really cool, pulling over the bulge is much easier than it looks. The top pitch up the technical corner is superb
James Oswald - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Rozzy

Batt - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/12 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Rachel B

Led P2. Entering the undercut crack requires faith, but isn't as bad as it looks. Another great route.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Simon

climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/12

Hidden - 2012

nearly fluffed the jamming crack on pitch 2
chris_B - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Lou Atkin

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/11

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod

Found pitch 2 the hardest but that's because I can't jam!
Conan - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor

Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/11 with Ali Clarke

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Mike

I led P2. Ended up going too high, so did crux of P3 also. If you had 60m ropes could probably do it in two pitches.
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Ben Corbey

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/10

Danhan - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/10

Andrew1 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Hulda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10

Led p 1 & 3
cem - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Dave Amos

Ztephan - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with Marius

Hidden - 2010

I lead P2, Geli did P1 and 3 lovely route
SGD - AltLd - 27/Aug/09 with Angelika Renner

naine - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/09 with SGD

100m HVS 5a, led pitch 2
John Roe - AltLd - 08/Aug/09 with Rob Patchett

joeydurkin - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Dave Gleave

Pitch 2. More jamming!
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Dave Turner

brockers - AltLd - Jul/09 with Maggie Bass

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with john singleton

tuukka - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Hanna

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Andy Inglis

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Ally Fulton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08

Led P2
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07

lead first pitch
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07 with Ali Kennedy, Jamie Moss

yuha - AltLd - Aug/07 with Matt

Nice steep HVS jamming on crux, rest is pleasant easier climbing.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/07 with Jo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/07

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

Whitt - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Luke, Ian

Luuuuuke - 2nd O/S - Jun/07 with ian, whitt

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Aug/06

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Graham Dolman

steev - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

decs - AltLd - Jun/06 with Steve

TobyA - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/02 with TobyFK

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd - Jun/02 with Andy Hyslop

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, cali1001, HIGHTOWER, andymoin

Voting
Total votes cast 11
hard n60 of 5
n60 of 5
easy n60 of 5
hard n6-0 of 5
n6-5 of 5
easy n6-0 of 5
hard n5+0 of 5
n5+0 of 5
easy n5+0 of 5
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars6 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 65 (9.2%)
Followed6 of 65 (9.2%)
Alt Leads50 of 65 (76.9%)
Unknown3 of 65 (4.6%)

'Climbed'20 of 65 (30.8%)
clean O/S40 of 65 (61.5%)
clean β1 of 65 (1.5%)
clean rpt4 of 65 (6.2%)