100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been plenty of discussion about the star rating of this climb, you will just have to do it so you can join in!
1) 5, 40m. Start up a crack with a tree in it and climb straight up over a small overhang, then up the arete on the right using a finger-crack. Belay on a ledge just below the Gandalf overhang. Many teams struggle up the grassy groove round to the right - this IS NOT the route, so get back on the proper line now!
2) 6-, 25m. Climb the right-hand crack directly through the Gandalf overhang, then continue up the vertical jamming crack in the steep headwall above to a tiny stance.
3) 6-, 35m. Continue directly up a series of vertical finger-cracks in orange rock keeping just to the right of the Eagle's Nest belay on Gandalf. Finish up a groove and hand-crack just to the right of
Gandalf's final section. © Rockfax

FA. (P1) T Enevold, T Seines 1993, (The main crack of P2) S & H

Pippa 19/Jul/15 AltLd

In the rain, tra la la la la

jonnie3430 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Dave Rumney 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

a bit to close to Gandalf to be a 3 star route, for me. Bottom pitch is excellent though.

with Tanya Milner
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
PhilipO ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
ad111 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
cameron_hall 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 - challenging steep jamming.

chrisallan 16/Jul/13 -

1, 3.

will_benfold 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3

with Chris Bull
ferdia 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Clare Muir
klipkabouter ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with John Vous
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I lead P1 and P3. P1 is really cool, pulling over the bulge is much easier than it looks. The top pitch up the technical corner is superb

with Rozzy
Batt 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Entering the undercut crack requires faith, but isn't as bad as it looks. Another great route.

with Simon
climbingpixie 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2012 -
chris_B 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nearly fluffed the jamming crack on pitch 2

louby 26/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/11 2nd
Ken Taylor 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod
Conan 10/Jul/11 AltLd

Found pitch 2 the hardest but that's because I can't jam!

with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor
Anna_wells ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ali Clarke
cat22 25/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
John Tanner 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P2. Ended up going too high, so did crux of P3 also. If you had 60m ropes could probably do it in two pitches.

with Ben Corbey
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd
Danhan 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Lead
Andrew1 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hidden 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
cem 19/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Led p 1 & 3

with Dave Amos
Ztephan ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Marius
Hidden ??/2010 -
SGD 27/Aug/09 AltLd

I lead P2, Geli did P1 and 3 lovely route

with Angelika Renner
naine 27/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with SGD
John Roe 08/Aug/09 AltLd

100m HVS 5a, led pitch 2

with Rob Patchett
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd
joeydurkin 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Dave Gleave
Hidden 19/Jul/09 AltLd
centurion05 19/Jul/09 AltLd
with patch
chiverstom 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2. More jamming!

with Dave Turner
brockers ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd
dan gibson 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with john singleton
tuukka 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Hanna
Alasdair Fulton 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Hidden 24/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Tim W 24/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch

yuha ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Matt
Chad123 30/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Nice steep HVS jamming on crux, rest is pleasant easier climbing.

with Jo
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
Whitt ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Ian
Luuuuuke ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with ian, whitt
Hidden 09/Aug/06 2nd β
RAK 18/Jul/06 AltLd
with Lauri
cem 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led p2

steev ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
decs ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with Steve
Hidden 21/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
TobyA 03/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with TobyFK
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, cali1001, HIGHTOWER, andymoin
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set