Guns n' Roses*** n6-
100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been plenty of discussion about the star rating of this climb, you will just have to do it so you can join in!
1) 5, 40m. Start up a crack with a tree in it and climb straight up over a small overhang, then up the arete on the right using a finger-crack. Belay on a ledge just below the Gandalf overhang. Many teams struggle up the grassy groove round to the right - this IS NOT the route, so get back on the proper line now!
2) 6-, 25m. Climb the right-hand crack directly through the Gandalf overhang, then continue up the vertical jamming crack in the steep headwall above to a tiny stance.
3) 6-, 35m. Continue directly up a series of vertical finger-cracks in orange rock keeping just to the right of the Eagle's Nest belay on Gandalf. Finish up a groove and hand-crack just to the right of
Gandalf's final section. © ROCKFAX

FA. (P1) T Enevold, T Seines 1993, (The main crack of P2) S & H
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This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Pete

a bit to close to Gandalf to be a 3 star route, for me. Bottom pitch is excellent though.
Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Tanya Milner

TommyKips - 2nd O/S - Jun/15

PhilipO - AltLd O/S - 2015

Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14

ad111 - AltLd O/S - Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 22/Jul/13

Led pitch 2 - challenging steep jamming.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Chris Allan

1, 3.
chrisallan - 16/Jul/13 with cameron_hall

Led P1,3
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Chris Bull

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Clare Muir

klipkabouter - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with John Vous

I lead P1 and P3. P1 is really cool, pulling over the bulge is much easier than it looks. The top pitch up the technical corner is superb
James Oswald - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Rozzy

Batt - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/12 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Rachel B

Led P2. Entering the undercut crack requires faith, but isn't as bad as it looks. Another great route.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Simon

climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 11/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/12

Hidden - 2012

nearly fluffed the jamming crack on pitch 2
chris_B - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Louise Atkin

louby - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with Chris Burn

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jul/11

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod

Found pitch 2 the hardest but that's because I can't jam!
Conan - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor

Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/11 with Ali Clarke

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Mike

I led P2. Ended up going too high, so did crux of P3 also. If you had 60m ropes could probably do it in two pitches.
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Ben Corbey

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/10

Danhan - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 10/Aug/10

Andrew1 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Hulda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10

Led p 1 & 3
cem - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Dave Amos

Ztephan - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with Marius

Hidden - 2010

I lead P2, Geli did P1 and 3 lovely route
SGD - AltLd - 27/Aug/09 with Angelika Renner

naine - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/09 with SGD

100m HVS 5a, led pitch 2
John Roe - AltLd - 08/Aug/09 with Rob Patchett

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/09

joeydurkin - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Dave Gleave

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/09

Pitch 2. More jamming!
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Dave Turner

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/09

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with john singleton

tuukka - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Hanna

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Andy Inglis

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Ally Fulton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08

Led P2
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07

lead first pitch
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07 with Ali Kennedy, Jamie Moss

yuha - AltLd - Aug/07 with Matt

Nice steep HVS jamming on crux, rest is pleasant easier climbing.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/07 with Jo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/07

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

Whitt - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Luke, Ian

Luuuuuke - 2nd O/S - Jun/07 with ian, whitt

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Aug/06

RAK - AltLd - 18/Jul/06 with Lauri

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Graham Dolman

steev - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

decs - AltLd - Jun/06 with Steve

TobyA - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/02 with TobyFK

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd - Jun/02 with Andy Hyslop

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
cali1001, HIGHTOWER, andymoin

Total votes cast 13
hard n60 of 6
n61 of 6
easy n60 of 6
hard n6-0 of 6
n6-5 of 6
easy n6-0 of 6
hard n5+0 of 6
n5+0 of 6
easy n5+0 of 6
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars7 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat