UKC

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An impressive route up the front pillar of Thruba Head. Climb the arete to a ledge and step left. Continue up the pillar, making use of the right arete, until thin cracks lead to the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb pitch up the square-cut pillar between Right Crack and Earthly Powers. Start as for Right Crack.
1) 36m, 6b. Climb steeply up the left arête of Earthly Powers. At 6m pull round left to the base of a crack on the face. At its end swing up left to a shallow niche below the slim section of the pillar. Climb the pillar using the right arête until better holds are gained slightly left. Continue up the leaning wall via a line of hairline cracks and a short angular groove to a belay.
2) 9m, 4a. Climb the arête easily to the top.

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Route of Interest
Crime and Punishment (Pre Aug 2017)

Grade: E5 ***
(Trial Wall Area)

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